1911 action question

[big bore 99]

I have an older 1911 a put together from parts. It's worked good and accurate for many years. When I got it, it had a plastic bumper or spacer on the guide rod. Well, thru the years it crumbled and fell apart. Now the slide over travels and jams open. I bought a spring assortment to no avail. It's a very nice pistol and would like to get it functioning again. Has anyone had and any experience with something like this?? Thanks

[JimB..]

Sounds like a recoil buffer, although those are a fairly new invention.

https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Shok-Buff-Recoil-Buffers-1911-Package-of-6/productinfo/2B/

[Bazoo]

Sounds like a commander slide on a full size frame.

[BK7saum]

I have a Kimber 1911 that I could not use a "shok-buff" on. It limited slide travel and caused me some problems. I run it as is and no issues.

If I have any (or can find) the remaining shok-buffs, you are welcome to them.

Brad

[22cf45]

Exactly what do you mean it over travels?
Phil

[Gtek]

Maybe barrel wedging in bushing, look at barrel bottom OD at rear travel location of bushing for a wear line.

[Preacher Jim]

A weak spring or A commander spring could be the culprit.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

big bore 99: I'd take BK7saum up on his offer, and if he doesn't have one, I might. Before we overthink your problem, if (as you said) the pistol worked fine before the shok-buff disintegrated, the simple solution would seem to be to just replace it and it should work well again.

[big bore 99]

Thanks to everyone for their advice and help. I went right over to ebay and ordered some buffers from Wilson Combat and an aluminun spacer. Like Der Gebirgsjager said don't overthink it. It worked well before the buffer disintegrated.

[Burnt Fingers]

A proper working 1911 has no use for a shock buffer. If your pistol requires one to run then there's something wrong.

[johniv]

^^^^^this.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

This is perhaps true, in the "best of all worlds" situation. Certainly J. Browning didn't design the 1911 with a shok-buff, and millions of 1911s have operated over many years without them. But, you will note that some makers' brand new pistols come with them, and famous makers like Brown and Wilson make and sell shok-buffs. I can almost agree with your statement, but "everyman's 1911" often isn't maintained to the ideal level, and there are many crossbreeds running around out there, like the two Essex/Colt and Essex/Essex pistols I own. Given an optimum fit of the parts and assuring that a proper recoil spring is used may eliminate the necessity for a shok-buff, but without that optimum condition wear can be accelerated even to the point of a cracked frame. I own approx. a dozen (or more) 1911-type pistols of various manufacture and vintage, and each and every one is equipped with a shok-buff. I think they were a great invention and have saved excess wear and damage to may 1911s by buffering the impact of metal to metal contact over hundreds and thousands of rounds. Just like Henry Ford didn't know about fuel injection, J. Browning didn't know about shok-buffs. Also noteworthy, the manufacturers usually have a recommendation, like change the shok-buff every 2,000 rounds. After only a few rounds one can observe the imprint of the back of the recoils spring guide on the buff, so buffering of impact is definitely occurring. Like much plastic, polymer, and rubber age and long neglect will sometimes cause them to harden and crumble. Having worked on many 1911s and built a few I feel like they are indispensable.

DG

[Baltimoreed]

Another thing too is that most modern civilian 1911s are a lot tighter than the 1911 that JMB designed and the US built. Also the 1911 was designed as a military sidearm that could be partially or completely replaced if it stopped functioning at most any time and at no cost to the soldier. Or it could be discarded and another just picked up on the battlefield. Protecting the sidearm from slide to frame battering wasn’t even a consideration then. I use the buffs on my 1911s, also have them on my Ruger mini’s. Steel slamming against steel at high velocity can’t be good. Let the shock buff take the beating not the gun. Replace as needed.

[Bazoo]

Thought it over, bet it's the front of the frame rails need to be tapered a bit. I don't use the buffers.

[big bore 99]

I got the buffers and it seems to work like a charm now. Mine is a cross breed of many parts, a lot of them from WW11. Much thanks to all for the help and advice.

[Martin Luber]

Without fully understanding your description of the issue, battered shok buffs swell out and cause drag. If you can't replace it, you can omit, or use a razor blade to trim the edges. Another common issue is the back side of the recoil plug batters the lugs making swing of the link difficult. This can be eliminated by bevelling the top half of the button projection on the rear face of the plug. Easy-peasy. I can post a picture if needed. Good luck

[Mk42gunner]

While I agree that shock buffers shouldn't be needed, they aren't necessarily a bad thing. I just on't like the soft ones that wear out quickly.

I don't remember who made them, but I bought them from Brownell's, basically a harder nylon type material that doesn't seem to wear out, swell or disintegrate. You can still see a bit of impact from the rear of the recoil spring plug part of the slide on the front of the buffer, but it doesn't seem to go any farther no matter how many rounds go downrange.

What I disagree with is people thinking they need a full length guide rod in a 1911. The spring is fully enclosed in a tunnel, just how is it going to get kinked? The full length guide rod that came in my Kimber got swapped out for surplus GI parts about the second time I field stripped the pistol. I did use one of the aforementioned nylon buffers and a Wolff recoil spring.

In the for what its worth department, the Navy PMS cards used to have you measure the relaxed length of the recoil spring. IIRC it was supposed to measure 6 5/16" laying on the bench. We found out that recoil springs cost four cents apiece, so I ordered enough to change all of ours. Amazingly most of the failures to feed issues went away during quals.

Robert

[Rich/WIS]

Burnt Fingers is correct. While it works now the shock buffer is a band-aid, you need to figure out what the real problem is. Even though a mix master of parts it should still function correctly assuming the parts are in spec.

[charlie b]

I agree. First is to figure out how the slide jams open. Where does it jam? What loads are you using when it jams open?

I do use the shok bufs on my 1911's too.

[1006]

Are you sure you are not bumping the the slide lock lever with your thumb during recoil. It is a common problem that can be solved by any one of the following:
putting a dimple on the slide stop where the plunger pin contacts it,
putting an angle on the end of the slide stop,
Installing a new plunger spring,
Keeping your thumbs away from the lever.

The buffer may be helping by reducing the amount of time the slide is in the sweet spot for the slide lock to catch.

Maybe, maybe not ....

[Bazoo]

If you shoot left handed, putting pressure on the take down button with your off hand will bind the slide.

[Burnt Fingers]

I've owned/own over two dozen 1911 pistols.

Not a one has a shock buffer.

JMB would have used a leather pad if one was needed.

1911 frames last for a lifetime. If it doesn't then there's something wrong with the pistol. Using a shock buffer to prevent this is like using a band-aid to treat smallpox.

Fix the problem, don't hide it.

Change the recoil springs every 3000 rounds. They aren't made to last forever.