Hornady projector

[Skyhawk23]

Hello All,

One noob here, I have been work and adjusting the hell out of a Projector press that my cousin gave me, it is not in good shape but I was able to struggle through and loaded some rounds. But I still don't think that it is working correctly. I have a few questions for your expert out there if you all don't mind lend a hand.

1. My primer block return spring is broke and I am trying to locate another one?
After market similar spring?

2. I have been trying to figure out is the shell plate suppose to be on there very loose? or what is the proper gap or even how to gap it, so it will be consistent .

3. Is it worth it to just trade in back in, but they want $300 plus whatever parts is missing plus the ride back to them?

4. I have finally succeed to get the brass kicker working good, after about 1000 rounds deprimed and eject.

Somehow the shell plate seem to be very loose and it seem to be clinking when enter to the station slot, I have adjusted the paws that it is advancing correctly now?

Then the primer return spring broke.

I have read and read search and research all over till my eye were blurry and still can seem to figure what is the right setup for the press. I have downloaded the Hornady manual and still I am not sure that it is right.

If you gurus out there can lend some knowledge to how to set this press up maybe a picture or two, will be greatly appreciate it.

[rancher1913]

honestly, if it were me, I would forget about it and buy a dillion. I own a hornady lnl progressive and its ok but incredibly temperamental. bought a dillon and now the lnl hardly gets used.

[Blindshooter]

I like the projector. I believe the QC on the main parts of the press is better than the new LNL.
Shame they stopped making primer parts. I take great care of the one setup I still have and it works flawlessly.
If I were in your place maybe keep the press and use it for prep and buy another. Don't how much you load or what but its hard to not go blue.

[ReloaderFred]

Call Hornady Customer Service and talk to a technician. I've had good service from them in the past, and they even rebuilt an old Pro-Jector for me quite a few years ago.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Skyhawk23]

Blindshooter,

Thanks for the reply, I am just getting back into the shooting scene. I am doing reload for several reasons now. Due to the shortage of ammos, and my family is now into shooting and it can get very expansive real quick. LOL

[Skyhawk23]

Rancher,

Thanks for the reply, the press was given to me so it didn't cause me anything but now need to have my eye check for blurriness. haha

But if I was to hold Dillion which press would be good? I don't have a lots of free cash to blow, but something that is compatible with the projector and I can use all my dies that would be great.

[Skyhawk23]

Reloaded,

I did contacted Hornady customer service and there just no more parts available, so that is why they suggested the trade in. Thanks

[Burnt Fingers]

$300+shipping+parts???

No way. I'd just get a Dillon.

I've had three Hornady LnL AP presses. Sold all three. I could never get the priming system 100%. The powder measures kept walking out. Went to Dillon and they work out of the box. I liked my Dillon 650 so much I bought a second one.

[Moleman-]

I bought a Projector 30 years ago and got a new LNL-AP this spring. The LNL is designed to be sloppy and still work, the Projector is designed to be tight there are things I like about them both. For your primer arm spring. Go to the hardware store and take your broken spring with you. Look at the toggle bolts for hanging stuff on drywall. They have a torsion spring in the "nut" part that will work if you get one that is a similar size and fits the retaining screw. You'll have to bend the arm tips and when you bend the ends do it at a slight angle so that it's harder for the tips to work their way out. I have used them in the past when the return spring broke to work until the replacement parts showed up from Hornady. You could also get some .028"ish music wire and bend your own. When done put them in the oven at 500 degrees for a half hour and they'll come out blue looking and should last longer than the toggle bolts which aren't made with the best grade of steel as they only have to cycle a limited number of times.

The shell plate and ram head should be clean and lightly lubed and the nut tightened down until it no longer feels like the plate is dragging as it spins around and the detents can slightly move the shellplate to align it. If you over adjust the pawls it can bind and make a clicking feeling/sound that is different from the detents clicking into position at the top and bottom of the stroke. Ideally the detents on the shellplate take over at the last second and push the plate that last little bit after the pawl no longer is in contact.

I kept my Projector and will be setting it up for smaller runs as it still works and is a great press. If you haven't done so add a clamp to the primer feed base as the open top keyhole shaped slot opens up with time and causes primer feed issues. With the clamp the primer tube is always held snugly. Also a pic of a very simple torsion spring bender if you go the music wire route. The T handles are hollow and slip over the pin that the wire is wound around. The T handles have a little nub that sticks down that is slightly less than wire dia so you just twist and push down until you get the number of windings you want. The pin you wind them around will produce a larger dia ID hole to the spring as when it relaxes the spring will open up slightly. So you may have to play around with diameters until you get ones that works.

[dannyd]

And just another option. Sold my Dillon 550 and SDB then purchased two LNL's. The LNL work good 88,663 rounds so far. Everyone sees things different. Ran about same number on the Dillion's they worked good two.

[Skyhawk23]

Moleman,

Thanks for a great and educational reply. I will have to sort out my options then again I may just keep the Projector for a depriming unit. Since parts are hard to come by. The price for a trade in is almost like buying a new unit plus I get to keep my old unit.

Then may go with the Blue boys. The price is about the same as trade in + shipping and whatever parts they think that is missing and they tag on more money.

[Skyhawk23]

DannyD,

Thanks I will have to take a look at all my options.

[Walks]

Tighten down the shellplate until it won't move.

Then back off the bolt half a turn. Just keep an eye on it, you'll have to tighten the bolt periodically.

[Skyhawk23]

Walks,

Thanks. I have try that many many times that works but the primer will not seat and sometime it will knock the primer off the cup.

[Rockzilla]

Parts are going to be your biggest problem, anything that has to do with the priming system
what Moleman & Walks explained is correct, the tips work. Some of those tricks I've used.
They do popup on Fleabay from time to time, even some parts, if they do popup ask if the
priming assy. is complete if not your in the same boat. Think there is at least 8 or more Pro 7's
and Projectors laying around here, still use them for certain things. As far as another press
either Dillon or the LNL-AP will suit your needs. I'm not brand loyal, so...what works, works

-Rock

[Skyhawk23]

Rock,

Thanks I am looking at all the tips and pointers from all the gurus out there, since I am a noob.

At this time I have place a rubber band in place of the primer block spring and it seem to be working so far. As for a new press I am too noob to know what brand is good and what brand loyalty right? LOL

I will keep looking for a new press maybe when it is all back in available again, but for now all I can do is look and research.

Thanks again

[Fishman]

I have a projector and a dillon 650. I use the projector for limited runs of rifle ammo because it still works well and i don't have to run it as a progressive if I don't want to. The Dillon 650 has quirks just like the Hornady, but it is a better machine. It ought to be since I spent at least 3 times what the projector cost. Case feeder, accessories, toolheads it all adds up to the base price.

[Blindshooter]

Here is one thing you can make that will improve the primer operation on the Projector. Make a primer arm actuator with a steeper angle, slows down the movement of the primer arm without affecting the press timing at all.
I'll attempt a link to pic below
https://i.postimg.cc/fLnycCD3/projectorprimer2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/yJj7BFJB)

[Fishman]

Thats a cool tip and I bet useful if your primers occasionally bobble and turn sideways. Mine do and I never could figure out why but it is so infrequent I couldn't really troubleshoot. I bet this would solve it.

[Blindshooter]

I bought a Projector 30 years ago and got a new LNL-AP this spring. The LNL is designed to be sloppy and still work, the Projector is designed to be tight there are things I like about them both. For your primer arm spring. Go to the hardware store and take your broken spring with you. Look at the toggle bolts for hanging stuff on drywall. They have a torsion spring in the "nut" part that will work if you get one that is a similar size and fits the retaining screw. You'll have to bend the arm tips and when you bend the ends do it at a slight angle so that it's harder for the tips to work their way out. I have used them in the past when the return spring broke to work until the replacement parts showed up from Hornady. You could also get some .028"ish music wire and bend your own. When done put them in the oven at 500 degrees for a half hour and they'll come out blue looking and should last longer than the toggle bolts which aren't made with the best grade of steel as they only have to cycle a limited number of times.

The shell plate and ram head should be clean and lightly lubed and the nut tightened down until it no longer feels like the plate is dragging as it spins around and the detents can slightly move the shellplate to align it. If you over adjust the pawls it can bind and make a clicking feeling/sound that is different from the detents clicking into position at the top and bottom of the stroke. Ideally the detents on the shellplate take over at the last second and push the plate that last little bit after the pawl no longer is in contact.

I kept my Projector and will be setting it up for smaller runs as it still works and is a great press. If you haven't done so add a clamp to the primer feed base as the open top keyhole shaped slot opens up with time and causes primer feed issues. With the clamp the primer tube is always held snugly. Also a pic of a very simple torsion spring bender if you go the music wire route. The T handles are hollow and slip over the pin that the wire is wound around. The T handles have a little nub that sticks down that is slightly less than wire dia so you just twist and push down until you get the number of windings you want. The pin you wind them around will produce a larger dia ID hole to the spring as when it relaxes the spring will open up slightly. So you may have to play around with diameters until you get ones that works.

Moleman, That clamp idea is something that might would have helped the one Projector I traded in on a LNL. Might cobble something like that up for the remaining Projector I have to keep the block from opening up.
Thanks

[Skyhawk23]

Thanks to all the help, tips, pointer and advise I kind of gave up on the primer portion of the press and just use it as it without priming. I bought a RCBS Rock Chucker at a great price, since there is a rebate going on with RCBS right now. So I guess I can prime with the Rock Chucker then use the projector for the rest or I can just use the single stage and load slowly with the headache. LOL

[Moleman-]

Moleman, That clamp idea is something that might would have helped the one Projector I traded in on a LNL. Might cobble something like that up for the remaining Projector I have to keep the block from opening up.
Thanks

It really helped mine, they really could of made that block better. The block helps or at least holds the primer tube more consistently. I like your sharper angle on the primer arm actuator.
I think I'm on my last primer cut off spring. After that I am going to make a clamp on stop out of either aluminum or steel that uses a torsion or coil spring instead of the formed flat spring that they came with. When the LNL came out I asked if the ram head from the LNL could be made to fit the projector. Hornady said no, but yet I still wonder. The retention method is different, but it would be nice to be able to swap out the ram head and use the newer primer system and case feeder.

[Moleman-]

Thanks to all the help, tips, pointer and advise I kind of gave up on the primer portion of the press and just use it as it without priming. I bought a RCBS Rock Chucker at a great price, since there is a rebate going on with RCBS right now. So I guess I can prime with the Rock Chucker then use the projector for the rest or I can just use the single stage and load slowly with the headache. LOL

What issues exactly are you having with the primers besides the missing torsion spring?

[Skyhawk23]

Moleman,

I follow the advise from walks and made some spring from piano wire, it seem to be O.K. for now in that part. But the timing for the primer is another issue, can't get it to properly seat a primer, and I have gone all over the adjustments and timing no help. if I loosing up the shell plate seem a lot then I can seat a primer. But the shell plate seem awful loose to me. The brass should not be moving while traveling to another station? But again I have never seen a Projector run or even know what it suppose to do, so I have to go by what is on the Hornady manual and Youtube for adjustment and education. Now Hornady support is not even replying to my email. LOL

[Moleman-]

The brass wiggles around between stations. 30 Carbine for me is the worst at moving around. The replacement shell plate springs they've been selling the last 12+ years are a smaller dia and don't hold the cases as well as the older ones do. Is the primer arm cup hitting the bottom of the ram or is it going into the hole in the bottom side of the ram smoothly. It almost seems like what you're describing is the timing on the shell plate is off enough that it is still turning as the primer is trying to be forced into the edge of the primer pocket and not the center. Got any pictures of the primer misfeeds?

[Skyhawk23]

Moleman,

It is hitting the bottom of the shell plate, but if I loosing up the shell plate a bit more and it will go in. But I am just not sure how loose is it suppose to be. If I can get some kind of a gap gauge between the shell plate and the base then I have a better idea.

But even with that I was able to struggle through and loaded up about 200 rds of 9 mm.

I know it is a learning curve but "damn" it is a mechanical monster.

I was able to made some spring, but Hornady just email and said that they found a spring and they are sending that to me. LOL I wonder if they monitor site such as this?

Also I messed up the primer load arm trying to getting run smoother but just messed up, so I have to make another one up and so far I think it is working as far as moving the arm under the primer tube.

But any advise,tips, pointers will be greatly appreciated

I am not afraid of jumping in with both feet.

[farmbif]

there is a bit of slop in shell plates.i guess I have the newer style Hornady progressive . I think that's what the little spring loaded ball bearings on the bottom of shell plates and the corresponding holes on base are for is alignment. but I guess that may be one of the differences between the older style projector and the newer lnlap.
I remember seeing conversion kits at the time I got this thing which was right after they made the changes and stopped calling it projector.
as far as the primer slide spring if you have the pieces of old one might take it to Napa or any hardware or farm store that has assortment of springs if you can't get it from Hornady.
not sure what your situation is but with all the shortages going on if you don't feel like messing with it it might bring pretty good money on eBay just keep in mind that the powder dispenser and progressive linkage costs about $150 or more to replace. a new lnlap cost is $430 last time I looked on mid south web site,
another thing to keep in mind unless money is no object is the cost of shell plates or for Dillons caliber conversion kits depending on how many different calibers you reload for.

[Skyhawk23]

Blindshooter,

Is it possible to get that dimension of the arm mod from you?

[Skyhawk23]

Farmbif,

I do know the price of the loading press lately. It has gone skyrocketed. I was able to get some reload done, but struggle through as what you might called it. LOL

I just didn't know how much slop of the shell plate supposed to be, when moving bullets through the stations.

It is giving to me from a family member so I was glad to have something to play with while sitting at home with no job to go to. I have never seen the press run or even seen one from anywhere till now, so that is why all the noob questions.

Just as I was making the spring from piano wires Hornady email and said that they have one to send so now I have the original and homemade as a backup.

As I have ask before if there is some kind of gap gauage that I can reference will be great.

[Moleman-]

https://www.hornady.com/support/user-manuals#!/ You have to scroll down to Projector.

Page 16&17 cover the pawl adjustment but also read through the section on priming and the case kicker which the nut and bolt on it control primer seating depth. I've had to adjust mine 3x now in 30 years of heavy use. The pawls are set into little "L"s that you tip forward or back by moving the two allen screws inside of the pawl toggle frame. The shell plate being a little loose is ok as it's basically there just to move the cases around and keep them from falling off for the most part. Priming and timing is where it comes into play the most. It's pretty easy to over tighten the shell plate and have it lag or if you run it fast and the plate is loose it can skip forward.

[Blindshooter]

Blindshooter,

Is it possible to get that dimension of the arm mod from you?

Its just a piece of flat bar, I eyeballed it using the original. I'll see if I can get a pic with a ruler beside it if you think that will help.

[Blindshooter]

Moleman,

It is hitting the bottom of the shell plate, but if I loosing up the shell plate a bit more and it will go in. But I am just not sure how loose is it suppose to be. If I can get some kind of a gap gauge between the shell plate and the base then I have a better idea.

But even with that I was able to struggle through and loaded up about 200 rds of 9 mm.

I know it is a learning curve but "damn" it is a mechanical monster.

I was able to made some spring, but Hornady just email and said that they found a spring and they are sending that to me. LOL I wonder if they monitor site such as this?

Also I messed up the primer load arm trying to getting run smoother but just messed up, so I have to make another one up and so far I think it is working as far as moving the arm under the primer tube.

But any advise,tips, pointers will be greatly appreciated

I am not afraid of jumping in with both feet.

Without actually eyeballing your press and from what you describe I think tweeking the pawls may help. Mr. Moleman has sent you in the right direction. There is another mod for the part that the pawls turn, breaking the trailing edge some, makes the pawls last longer and fewer adjustments. I'll see if I can get a pic for you.

[Skyhawk23]

Blindshooter,

Thanks a pic with a ruler will help a lot. also I will try the pawls again.

[Blindshooter]

Pic of arm actuator mod with ruler and shell plate drive mod
https://i.postimg.cc/zGWfzgQw/armactuator.jpg (https://postimg.cc/v4YyXcbD)
https://i.postimg.cc/PJ8gWmY2/shell-plate-drive-mod.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1Vs7PVWq)

[Skyhawk23]

Blindshooter, and all the gurus out there.

I think I finally got the timing correct now, since I can move the shell plate and the primer is sitting still and ready to be loaded in the brass, the brass is able to move around the press without any binding or popping. I think I am back on the saddle again, took me awhile and all the help.

What I have done is adjust the pawls corse adjustment till I got the shell plate advancing correctly, then fine tune it with the fine adjustment to get them all lined up. The shell plate was adjusted as well, so I am good for now.

Thanks again for you guys help, tips, and pointer.

Blindshooter, I will make that bar with better material, what have now is too soft I think but it is working.

Thanks everyone [smilie=w: :?

[Skyhawk23]

Just as I have the old projector all setup and working again, the big brown truck dropped off a nice box with the Rock Chucker Supreme inside. Now I have new toys to play and set up.

Have a great day all. :bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:

[deltaenterprizes]

I have 2 Projector press and was thinking about modifying the ram top to eject the cartridge like the LNL does and just use them to expand, drop powder, seat size the bullet and crimp.
I deprime and then tumble (wet or dry) my brass and then size and prime on a Hornady Iron Press with auto primer feed.
I check in a case gauge and then run them through a Dillon 1050. I could do smaller runs on my modified Projectors.

[Blindshooter]

I have 2 Projector press and was thinking about modifying the ram top to eject the cartridge like the LNL does and just use them to expand, drop powder, seat size the bullet and crimp.
I deprime and then tumble (wet or dry) my brass and then size and prime on a Hornady Iron Press with auto primer feed.
I check in a case gauge and then run them through a Dillon 1050. I could do smaller runs on my he modified Projectors.

Rifle?
You don't prime on your 1050? I love that press and have had very few primer problems with it. Pistol is all I load on it though.
Looks like modifying the Projector ram top to work like LNL would be a task, but then its painfully obvious I'm no machinist......

[deltaenterprizes]

Blindshooter I have loaded about 50,000 rounds on one of my 1050s and the primer slide gets sticky after a couple thousand rounds and needs cleaning, this can cause malfunctions.
I also check each case in a case gauge after sizing. The little bit of effort it takes on the Iron Press to prime the case insures no primer problems jamming the press.
I got spoiled by a friend that asked me to load some new primed brass, it ran so smoothly I was hooked!
The factory primes in a separate step so that the cases can be inspected and I do the same thing!
No stopping to fill primer magazine, just add bullets and fill the case feeder.