Turkish Mauser

[264 Win Mag]

Question for all the military firearms experts.
I am trying to find a load for a 1939 Turkish Mauser chambered in 8x57 that will shoot in near vicinity of where I aim it. My 200gr cast load seemed to group pretty well at roughly 60 yards but was about 16" above point of aim. I am going to buy some bigger targets and try at 100 yards but my eyes won't do much farther than that with open sights. Research has told me the rifles are zeroed to 200 meters normally with military ammunition which I also read is pretty hot. My limited experience with open sights tells me to get a load to shoot to the sights will end up very low powered. Should I try heaver bullets?
Thomas

[TNsailorman]

My advice(not an expert) would be if you like the 200 grain boolit, stay with it. Order a mauser blank sight from Brownells and file it a little at a time until it hits at you point of aim and distance you want to zero. That is what I did with nearly every mauser I have owned and that is quite a few. Fitting is not that hard, just use a 3 cornered file with one side ground smooth. Call a "safe" file. james

[264 Win Mag]

Thanks James. Not the reply I was expecting but that's why I asked. I kinda figured it was too far off of zero to correct with the load.
Thomas

[Texas by God]

Those rifles are regulated for a 154grain fmj trotting along around 3000 fps. James is correct. On sighting- are you dropping the front barleycorn to the bottom of the Vee? As in "a fine bead"? Try that but I'd get a taller front sight too.

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[264 Win Mag]

Those rifles are regulated for a 154grain fmj trotting along around 3000 fps. James is correct. On sighting- are you dropping the front barleycorn to the bottom of the Vee? As in "a fine bead"? Try that but I'd get a taller front sight too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Yes sir. Dropped it as low in the vee as I could and aimed at the bottom of my target board just to make sure I could get it on paper and check the grouping. The taller front sight should be just the ticket. Was fairly amazed at how well it shot for a beat up old military rifle from 1939.
Thomas

[swheeler]

264 Win Mag this should fix you up, used one on M96 Swede to bring shots down to poa.........https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/sights/front-sights/mauser-91-dovetail-front-sight-blank-prod341.aspx

[264 Win Mag]

264 Win Mag this should fix you up, used one on M96 Swede to bring shots down to poa.........https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/sights/front-sights/mauser-91-dovetail-front-sight-blank-prod341.aspx

Thank you swheeler. Will get on on order ASAP so I can work with the rifle this Fall/Winter.
Thomas

[andrew375]

A quick solution is to put up two targets, one above the other. Aim at the bottom one to hit the other.

[Larry Gibson]

Another thing to consider is the bedding. With the long barrels it is very easy for the stock to bend them. With the barreled action laying in the stock if, when the front guard screw is tightened, the action is pulled down into the stock the barrel is being bent up. That can and does cause milsurp rifles to hit higher than they are supposed to. The barrel, in a properly bedded Mauser, should lay evenly w/o any upward (or sideward) pressure when the action is tightened down firmly by the guard screws.

[gwpercle]

Thank you swheeler. Will get on on order ASAP so I can work with the rifle this Fall/Winter.
Thomas

Order two ...just in case you mess the first one up you will have backup .
Voice of experience speaking here .
Gary

[264 Win Mag]

Another thing to consider is the bedding. With the long barrels it is very easy for the stock to bend them. With the barreled action laying in the stock if, when the front guard screw is tightened, the action is pulled down into the stock the barrel is being bent up. That can and does cause milsurp rifles to hit higher than they are supposed to. The barrel, in a properly bedded Mauser, should lay evenly w/o any upward (or sideward) pressure when the action is tightened down firmly by the guard screws.

Will check this out as well. It is definitely a long barrel.
Thomas

[264 Win Mag]

Order two ...just in case you mess the first one up you will have backup .
Voice of experience speaking here .
Gary

I ordered a front sight pusher as my track record with roll pins and and punches is not stellar.8-)

[Geezer in NH]

Having had many pallets of Turk ammo I can say definitely that pulling the bullets and dumping 5 grains will make them more pleasant.

Run un-selected through a 1919 Browning the covers WILL blow up every 800-1200 rounds. Big deal there, pound the cover flat and keep shooting. For shooting in bolt actions I RECOMENED the 5 grain reduction of powder. Make sure you clean it good it is very corrosive and the jacket material helps it hold the corrosion ability.

At $.03 delivered it was Fantastic! The 90's were the good old days IMHO
I still have enough for my bolt action 8mm's Thank you

[Texas by God]

Long ago a few of us watched my Hakim eject a Turkish round 64 feet from the shooter. Yeah, it’s hot. And that was after hitting the deflector. I turned the gas way down for the rest of that 90 round $2.50 bandolier with brass stripper clips! Good times. The Yugo is better ammo if found I thought.

[264 Win Mag]

Got the new front sight from Brownell's and after some cautious filing and using the new front sight pusher I have it installed. Getting ready to load up some more 200gr cast rounds and see what I can do this time to lessen the 14" to 16" above point of aim impact. New sight is significantly taller than the old sight so I expect a major improvement.
Thomas

[swheeler]

So how did it do Thomas?

[waksupi]

I keep some 1/2" X1/2" steel stock around, and make sights when I need them. Mostly to cure your problem, to bring sights to point of aim.

[264 Win Mag]

Got everything installed and ready to go. Have the rounds loaded but between the weather and elderly in-laws a trip to the range has not happened. Sweat in the eyes does not help my marksmanship.:grin:
Thomas

[32-20]

Another trick I have done is to take some thin styrene used in scratch building railroad models, say .010" thick. I cut a thin strip and bend it into a V, and glue it on to the front sight to raise it up. Then file it as you go. Files easy, and then you know about what height the real one needs to be. Also done this with very thin brass sheet.

[Cree]

Sarco also has a comparable “tall” sight - theirs references the Swedish Mauser, but AFAIK, all the Mauser dovetails are the same. I usually shoot FAR slower loads than anything that came out of these guns and have also found simply using a “true” Swedish front sight on other vintages, since it is not the inverted “v” of the German, Turk, and Spanish guns (The Swede sights are a true vertical post), you can often order a taller (+1.0, +1.5) sight and kill two birds with one stone - get your POI and POA to finally team up and improve your sight picture considerably.

I had done this on my 1891 Argentine first, then found a NOS Marbles bead front blade that was designed to fit the dovetail. Since the gun was already sporterized, it was a no brainer and a vast improvement in sight picture. I believe the Marble’s front sight blade for the Mausers was a 2 (or a 3?) and a 28. They show up on ePay from time to time and no one seems to know what they were made for.

[gumbo333]

A little strip of thin cardboard taped or glued to the side of the front sight will give you something to work with to get you near the height you need to be.