Long term storage

[abunaitoo]

Looking for some kind of coating, that is not sticky, to store for a year or more.
chinese virus has almost shut down everything here.
It's been six months, and I don't see it getting any better.
I've heard LPS4 is kind of like a spray on wax film.
Anyone use it????
How hard is it to take off????

[Newboy]

The original Thompson' Water Seal was like that, before they changed it.

I am not familiar with the product you mention.

What I use around the shop for hand planes, chisels, table saw, etc. is something I make. Buy a quart of tolulene or xylene at Home Depot. Put it in a spray bottle. Put some paraffin in. I buy the canning blocks at the grocery. Spray it on, and it leaves a wax coating that lasts a long time. Not oily. Does not wipe off with casual handling. Has lubricating properties. And has not affected any wood finishes I have found. The more paraffin you dissolve in the bottle, the thicker the coating. But for rust prevention, it just takes a little.


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[10x]

The original Thompson' Water Seal was like that, before they changed it.

I am not familiar with the product you mention.

What I use around the shop for hand planes, chisels, table saw, etc. is something I make. Buy a quart of tolulene or xylene at Home Depot. Put it in a spray bottle. Put some paraffin in. I buy the canning blocks at the grocery. Spray it on, and it leaves a wax coating that lasts a long time. Not oily. Does not wipe off with casual handling. Has lubricating properties. And has not affected any wood finishes I have found. The more paraffin you dissolve in the bottle, the thicker the coating. But for rust prevention, it just takes a little.




Be extremely careful handling toluene or xylene. Toxic is an under statement.
I worked with this stuff in the Shell Canada heavy oil analysis labs at the local heavy oil (Tar sands) project
using Toluene and xylene as solvents to clean solid particulate out of samples, then distillation of the clean diluted sample to recover the toluene and xylene. This process also took the light end gas and liquid of the sample as well.



https://beta-static.fishersci.com/content/dam/fishersci/en_US/documents/programs/education/regulatory-documents/sds/chemicals/chemicals-t/S25611.pdf

http://www.cometchemical.com/MSDS/XyleneEN.pdf

[JimB..]

I use boeshield T-9 for some things, but for things that fit in a 5 gal bucket I seal them up with VCI.

Have been thinking about trying Dry Coat, just haven’t.

Wax works okay in moderate climates, I wouldn’t rely on it.

[richhodg66]

Is there some other kind of solvent besides Toluene that would work with this and maybe not be so toxic? I like the idea of a liquid wax.

Actually, seems you could use ordinary Johnson's paste wax as a preservative just by itself.

[Shepherd2]

We bought a small manure spreader last week. The builder recommended that we spray the chains with Fluid Film to protect them from corrosion. It contains lanolin and yes, it does smell like sheep.

Around here you can get it at Lowe's, WalMart and Rural King.

[Rich/WIS]

Have used Fluid Film and it works well although a bit oily to handle. Think it is the commercial version of stuff we used on our EOD tools, most of which were steel without any type of protective finish. Worked well and simply wiping off with a rag or paper towel before use removed most of the oiliness. Keep my 45 dies in my turret press and it keeps them, and the press, reasonably rust free. Spray and a light wipe to get the excess is all it takes. Have not used it on firearms so don't know how well it works in that application. For firearms have used the storage bags and VCI paper from Brownells, worked fine for three years while I was overseas.

[Hossfly]

Haven’t heard of LPS 4, but have used a lot of LPS 3, we would use it on our 106 recoiless rifles. Looks really bad appearance only, as it really inhibits rust very well. It leaves a waxy surface, that wipes off easily with just about any solvent. I use it to store my dies when not in use for a long time. Looks like Bees wax but think its just some type of petroleum product. Used a lot in the Gulf on oil rigs, for rust protection.

[10x]

Fluid film is incredible stuff for protecting from corrosion. Just make sure the metal is clean before you spray and you are good to go.

[gwpercle]

Birchwood-Casey Barricade , spray on rust prevent. Thin wax based in a fast evaporating carrier.
My favorite for long term here in Louisiana . The carrier evaporates and leaves a dry wax film , does no damage to wood finishes plastic or bluing . I spray on a coat , let dry 8 hours and spray on another .
Can be sprayed on a cloth and wiped on also . Can be removed with alcohol on a cloth ...I usually just leave it on the guns wood and metal surfaces ...it's just a thin film of dry wax and looks good.
Try it ... I give it a TEN and 5 gold stars !

If you can't find it in HI ...then use paste wax , any paste wax that doesn't have a cleaner in it . S.C. Johnson Paste Wax or any automotive / furniture pure Carnauba paste wax ...put on two coats and cover every metal and wood surface ...wax will not damage any wood or metal finish and it will prevent rust . The spray stuff is just easier to get on .
Gary

[BK7saum]

I've also heard great things about Birchwood Casey Barricade. I have been using it only recently and cant comment on the long term. Smell when spraying is a bit off putting to me, but I guess that is the carrier. So I spray outside. It is an aerosol and I dont want overspray on the floor anyway.

[Petrol & Powder]

I don't know WHAT you intend to store for a year or more.

There are a LOT of options. Some cheap, some not so cheap. Some good for small items, some suited for larger things.

I assume we are talking about ferrous metal. In the end, it all comes down to preventing oxygen and water from reaching the surface. It really isn't rocket science. A tub of wheel bearing grease will accomplish that as long as you start with a clean, DRY item.
Oils can dry up and some greases are not Ph neutral and some stuff it just too costly to use on a large scale.

For firearms, tools and other relatively small ferrous items - RIG has never let me down.

A friend inherited a 1911 that was stored in an unheated, unattended building near the ocean in New England. It had been stored for years wrapped in a greasy rag. It was in far better shape than one would expect.

Start with a clean, DRY, object and seal it with something to keep oxygen and water away from the surface - and you'll probably be fine.

[Outpost75]

LPS3 or LPS4 are both very good, as is also Break Free Collector. Lacking either of those, Lee Liquid Alox bullet lube, diluted with equal parts of diesel, Jet-A, JP8 or kerosene works well applied with a paint brush and worked into all surfaces. Does not damage plastic parts, but may attack some wood finishes. JPW does well for temperate inland climates, but not in humid tropical environments.

[HangFireW8]

13 posts in and we still don't know if the OP is storing guns, cast boolits, or apples.

[bakerjw]

Our custom tandem bikes are steel and we use FluidFilm to protect the insides of the tubes. It can get messy but it gets everywhere that it is needed.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Minnesota has 2 or three months of high humidity to worry about. I'm not sure about HI ???

Anyway, I have some guns that don't get out on a annual basis, all I use is the DIY version of the "Gun Show Lube/protectant".
70% Mobil One (I use 10W40 full synth)
30% STP oil treatment.
Heat them up to 150º or so, to blend them.

[Tatume]

I like to clean as normal, wipe down with WD40, and then treat with WD40 Specialist. Spray it on, let it sit for an hour, and then wipe down with a soft cloth.

[johniv]

Barricade also comes in a 6 oz. can, non aerosol

[gwpercle]

I've also heard great things about Birchwood Casey Barricade. I have been using it only recently and cant comment on the long term. Smell when spraying is a bit off putting to me, but I guess that is the carrier. So I spray outside. It is an aerosol and I dont want overspray on the floor anyway.

Yes ...that's the way to do it . I go outside to let the carrier evaporate (can't be good for lungs) and over spray wont get all over floor . The spraying on application is a good/bad deal ...I sometimes spray the stuff on a rag and wipe it on .
Gary

[gwpercle]

13 posts in and we still don't know if the OP is storing guns, cast boolits, or apples.

It's more fun to use ESP and just guess at the details ...and posters wonder why they get screwy answers ...what if he was wanting to long term store his Grandmother and I'm telling him to wax her down with two coats of S.C. Johnson paste wax ....
Gary

[bangerjim]

Please tell us WHAT you are trying to store!!!!!!!!!

[Texas by God]

Wrap it up like a mummy in Cotton gauze soaked in paraffin. I think that might work on whatever it is you're talkin about.

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[Ozark mike]

Vasiline is awsome at preventing corrosion but is to simple cheap and crazy for some works for mine though

[abunaitoo]

I have many firearms that are not used for, sometimes, a year or more.
I try to take them out to clean and oil when I remember.
Looking for something spray on, that is not oily.
We have lots of humidity, (but not much humility), all year round.
Things rust just sitting there.
What I'm doing now is.........
Clean off surface rust.
With a shaving brush, I lightly coat with RIG grease.
Messy if I touch it, and seems to disappear after a while.
LPS3 and 4 seem to be some kind of wax coating.
Maybe it's something like the Birchwood-Casey Barricade????
Also "I'm a tool junki", Always collecting old tools.
Want to find something for them too.
Rust never sleeps here.
Everything here rust, corrodes, deteriorates (even our moral fiber).
probably a losing battle, but I'm trying the best I can.

[abunaitoo]

Friend once tried some pistol socks with silicone.
What a mess.
Silicons leached all over the place.
Plus the pistol still rusted.

[Petrol & Powder]

Not sure why you need a shaving brush to apply RIG.

Once again, the key is to prevent oxygen and water from reaching the surface of the ferrous metal. Lots of substances will accomplish that task. Some are expensive, some work better than others, but none of them are magic.

Oils can gum up and/or evaporate. Greases work better and if they are Ph neutral and stay soft, they all work pretty well. Adding wax to the grease (AKA Cosmoline) adds another component of protection because even if the petroleum carrier dies up, the wax remains and seals the surface.

There is NO formula for success. You're either going to have something that is expensive, easy to remove and not greasy OR you're going to have something inexpensive that requires a bit more work on your part. There's no free lunch.

Personally, I'll accept a little more work on my part to use an inexpensive but effective preservative.

Another part of this process is you MUST start with a clean, DRY, item. No amount of grease, oil, wax, whatever; will work if you apply it over rust, water, salt, etc. You have to start with a clean & dry surface. You must also coat that surface immediately to seal out oxygen & water.

RIG has never let me down but plain old wheel bearing grease will work. Because lighter oils will dry or evaporate faster than heavier greases, oils are better suited for short term storage.
As for the labor needed to remove the grease later, ......that's the price you pay for not having rust.

[Elkins45]

Johnson’s paste wax is a good choice for wood and metal guns.

[abunaitoo]

The RIG is the grease type.
White screw top plastic tub.
Shaving brush works great putting it on.
Just a light coat.
Any grease would probably work, but container is small, so takes up little space.
There used to be a spray on cosmoline.
Forget the name.
It worked great. But was a little sticky.

[Petrol & Powder]

I would put up with a little bit of greasy or sticky if it protects well and is inexpensive.

There really is no free lunch. Your choices are : expensive, ineffective or a little more work to remove it later.

Despite the hatred of removing it, cosmoline is still a good choice. Even after the carrier evaporates (which takes awhile) the remaining substance prevents rust. I don't mind removing cosmoline as much as others do but I understand the dislike for it.
RIG has never let me down and I gladly put up with the little bit of work to put it on and take it off. Honestly, a cheap tub of wheel bearing grease would work just as well but you don't need the other additives that are in that grease (although they cause no harm).

I've never seen a light oil that will hold up over extended time and I've seen some of the high dollar specialty gun oils fail even quicker than the inexpensive ones.

A trick that I was taught back when the world was flat, was to drive off the moisture before applying the oil or grease.
A parkerized gun would be disassembled, cleaned and then heated with a hair dyer to the point that it was slightly uncomfortable to hold. While still warm, it would be coated with oil or grease. It would then be re-assembled and wiped down one final time.