Need advise on 180gr hard cast load for Freedom Arms M83 .357

[Gunslinger]

I've decided to go down the path of customizing the perfect load for my Model 83 using a 180gr hard cast gas checked bullet.

I do have some experience in casting bullets, but only for 9mm and .38 special.

Does anyone have experience with this particular size bullet in a M83 .357? I figure since it is a fairly large bullet, seating it to get a COL of 1.685" would be the way to go! But does cast bullets have cannelures corresponding to Hornady's XTP for instance? Any suggestions on powders? I can't decide whether to go with the "normal" .358 in size or to get my bore slugged? And finally I'd like some thoughts on molds!

I would be nice to get some feedback before spending $200+ on a mold, not knowing if has the right specifications or not. Mold are pretty expensive around here.

Thanks guys.

[FN in MT]

I've got a few FA's and have experience with a few others. I guess #1 I'd have to ask; WHAT do You wish to do with your "perfect load"?? Simply punch paper at 25 yds? Longer range shooting? Hunting?

And excuse me as I have NO idea whats available or what Your shooting/hunting situation may be in Denmark.

Is this Your first FA? And also wondering what barrel length?

FN in MT

[missionary5155]

Good evening Wiking..
Back in 1982-3 I shot a hard cast (linetype) 180 grain RN GC in my 357 mag Dan Wesson. A friend had this mold and I bought the boolits from him. They were sized .360 and filled the cylinder throats of my Dan. I Crimped them in the first grease grove to take advantage of the longer Dan Wesson cylinder. My load was 18 grains w296 which is TOO HOT for many 357 revolvers. It was Very accurate in my Dan Wesson and would knock down the 200 meter steel rams if hit on the upper 2/3 of the body.
I would NEVER use this lead mix or boolit to hunt soft skin /body critters. I would personally get a Semi-wadcutter shape or some shape with a large flat nose. Use the softest lead mix my revolver would shoot accurately and give complete penetration at whatever velocity I needed. Now if the target is a moose or elk or 200 kilo+ animal then things change. I would first get a larger caliber. Something that starts with a .4 or larger. I would also use the largest boolit I can shoot accurately and fast enough to penetrate completly and soft enough to expand.
In this Handgun section is another runing thread about "How Hard cast boolits for Hunting " ... Read through that. Some good observations.

[Gunslinger]

I've got a few FA's and have experience with a few others. I guess #1 I'd have to ask; WHAT do You wish to do with your "perfect load"?? Simply punch paper at 25 yds? Longer range shooting? Hunting?

And excuse me as I have NO idea whats available or what Your shooting/hunting situation may be in Denmark.

Is this Your first FA? And also wondering what barrel length?

FN in MT

The load is only intended for paper punching at 25-50 yds. Hunting with handguns is not allowed in Denmark.

Yes it is my first Freedom Arms, and I totally adore her :mrgreen:. Barrel length is 4 3/4"

[Gunslinger]

Good evening Wiking..
Back in 1982-3 I shot a hard cast (linetype) 180 grain RN GC in my 357 mag Dan Wesson. A friend had this mold and I bought the boolits from him. They were sized .360 and filled the cylinder throats of my Dan. I Crimped them in the first grease grove to take advantage of the longer Dan Wesson cylinder. My load was 18 grains w296 which is TOO HOT for many 357 revolvers. It was Very accurate in my Dan Wesson and would knock down the 200 meter steel rams if hit on the upper 2/3 of the body.
I would NEVER use this lead mix or boolit to hunt soft skin /body critters. I would personally get a Semi-wadcutter shape or some shape with a large flat nose. Use the softest lead mix my revolver would shoot accurately and give complete penetration at whatever velocity I needed. Now if the target is a moose or elk or 200 kilo+ animal then things change. I would first get a larger caliber. Something that starts with a .4 or larger. I would also use the largest boolit I can shoot accurately and fast enough to penetrate completly and soft enough to expand.
In this Handgun section is another runing thread about "How Hard cast boolits for Hunting " ... Read through that. Some good observations.

Good evening sir.

Sounds like a good load. If sized to .360, how big was the mold then?

[cajun shooter]

Wiking, The expense of making a hard alloy bullet out of let's say linotype is not nworth the trouble for paper punching. If you want to shoot hot then water drop some WW"S. If you buy a gas check mold then you don't even have to do that. Do you have any access to a Lyman Cast Bullet book. It would answer alot of your questions and has a whole section on alloys. Enjoy your new FA

[AzShooter]

http://lbtmoulds.com/

If you are looking to get the best mould and learn more about what causes accuracy in your revolver you can't beat talking to Veral at LBT. I was looking for a better bullet for my Smith Mocel 627 and after reading everything on the web site and a few e-mails to Veral I decided on one of his 4 cavity moulds.

He will make it to match your revolver.

Get his bore slug kit and lap kit. The slugs will tell you exactly what your bore is and what your chamber throats are. Very important.

Mine were .355 for the throat and .356 for the bore. Not gonna be an accurate revolver with those measurements. Veral explained how to improve it. Since I shoot USPSA and ICORE matches I wanted a Round Nose bullet and he was able to make one for me. It's going to be 180 grains.

I should have the mould shortly.

Just from the improvements I've made so far my groups are tighter but with the new bullet I expect to see even more improvement.

[Bass Ackward]

The load is only intended for paper punching at 25-50 yds. Hunting with handguns is not allowed in Denmark.

Yes it is my first Freedom Arms, and I totally adore her :mrgreen:. Barrel length is 4 3/4"


I use 5.3 grains of Unique with my 180 in my 97. But my 180 design is made to seat deep for good case neck tension. I would start with a similar powder and just work up in .2 grain increments until you get something you can live with.

In truth, at the lower velocities, it is possible that a lighter bullet will perform better. But like anything else, you just have to try it.

[Gunslinger]

http://lbtmoulds.com/

If you are looking to get the best mould and learn more about what causes accuracy in your revolver you can't beat talking to Veral at LBT. I was looking for a better bullet for my Smith Mocel 627 and after reading everything on the web site and a few e-mails to Veral I decided on one of his 4 cavity moulds.

He will make it to match your revolver.

Get his bore slug kit and lap kit. The slugs will tell you exactly what your bore is and what your chamber throats are. Very important.

Mine were .355 for the throat and .356 for the bore. Not gonna be an accurate revolver with those measurements. Veral explained how to improve it. Since I shoot USPSA and ICORE matches I wanted a Round Nose bullet and he was able to make one for me. It's going to be 180 grains.

I should have the mould shortly.

Just from the improvements I've made so far my groups are tighter but with the new bullet I expect to see even more improvement.

Now thats the kinda talk I like to hear :Fire:

That sounds like the way to go, I'll definately check it out.

I just hope there isn't a lot of difference between the size og my bore and my throats.

What is a custom mold like that gonna set me back? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to say it in public.

CajunShooter: I don't have the Lyman cast manual yet, but do plan on aquiring it soon.

I have a lot of WW's and got some lino coming in soon...