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View Full Version : Lee Mold issue - newbie problems



Omega47
11-28-2008, 09:55 PM
Just got in a new Lee 90367 - .309 rifle bullet mold. I cleaned it good with brake cleaner, smoked it, warmed it up on my hotplate as my led melted, and proceeded to cast 22 perfect boolits. I was in a rhythm when everything went wrong fast.

The next batch of 2 stuck in the mold, but just a little, so I took a moment to smoke it again. The next batch was worse as were the next and the next, each progressively worse. I tried cleaning the mold, smoking it again, cleaning it again. I even tried using the Frankford Arsenal bullet mold release graphite spray. Nothing worked. Now I've got lead bits stuck to the aluminum and I can't get this mold to release anything.

1. What happened? The first 22 boolits (see, I can use this version of the word without my grammer side cringing too bad [smilie=s: ) came out perfect. Nice sharp edges, nice shiny finish. After that, when they started sticking, there were little pits down the sides and the base was not filling right - it was hollow like a chocolate Santa.

2. How do you clean a mold? I don't have any sanding or polishing tools that small. How to I clean it up without ruining the bullet cavity?

3. What can I do to prevent this?

Thanks

Heavy lead
11-28-2008, 10:11 PM
Sounds like a blooming mess. Also sounds like you have somewhat of a soldered effect of the lead on the mould. First you've got to get that out, obviously, I think I would soak it in some Kroil overnight to do that. Then take the sprue plate off and clean it hot water so hot you can't stand it with Dawn or something like that and scrub with Comet (or similiar) and a tooth brush. (some guys boil, but I have not found that necessary, but I also run my water heater almost hot enough to cook spagetti too). Just whatever you do don't panic, and don't put anything in that soft boolit cavity that will hurt it.

Heavy lead
11-28-2008, 10:14 PM
Oh and how to prevent this? After you get the aluminum mould working, never ever get any boolit lube or oil in it. After you get those aluminum moulds hot a few times, they really start dropping good. As far as the mould release, as a general rule I would recommend not using it. IMO it just makes a mess of the mould and treated properly and broken in properly you shouldn't need the stuff.

docone31
11-28-2008, 10:28 PM
I have had a few Lee Molds that just plain would not drop the castings.
I really heated the mold, I let it sit in the pot untill the lead does not stick to it.
With the sprue plate out of the way, put 1/4-20 nuts on the sprue holes. Pour the lead into the mold, and let it cool off. Open the mold, pop out the castings. Rub just a tad of fine lapping compound on them. Auto parts store stuff.
Turn them with a 7/16the wrench a few turns.
I usually bust one off doing this. Start with light pressure, then gradually clamp heavier. Swap out the castings one hole for another, or just use one for both.
Here is where some folks disagree, toss the castings back into the pot, cast a few castings without cleaning the mold. Toss them back in the pot.
Let it all cool, take a Bic lighter, flame the mold pretty thoroughly, heat it up, and cast away.
My technique produces some pretty nice looking boolitts. The grit floats to the top of the melt. The castings clean the mold of grit also.
If I get some sticky castings, and I do even with my "sweet molds", I use the wood dowel I use to open the sprue plate to just push the bases of the castings.
I water drop all my castings.
They stick sometimes. In time, your mold will become sweet also.
When the mold cools off, the lead shavings will be easy to flick off.
I do not lube my molds.

mooman76
11-28-2008, 11:53 PM
Sounds to me like the mould got too hot. Not a big deal but they(aluminum) do get sticky when it gets too hot. Just something you learn through experience. I usually start out a little hot myself. You get the mould heated up quicker and start getting good bullets faster then as the lead starts to take longer to cool, you gradyally turn the heat down. Eventually you learn where the heat should be at to keep going at a steady pace for the long run. Do't sweat it, just start over again. By the way I do all this without smoking my moulds or scrubing them. I just use them and I have a small light plastic hammer to give the mould a tap( not on the actual mould itslf) so the bullets drop right out if needed.

DLCTEX
11-29-2008, 11:47 AM
+1 on hot mold being sticky, reduce casting heat, slow the pace, or use a damp sponge/rag to cool things a bit. I just turn the heat down and open the mold in front of a fan to cool it a little. Each mold seems to have it's preferred heat range where it casts good boolits and drops well. It helps to keep a journal and write down what works. When I was younger I could remember from session to session, but now the computer bank is so full it slows the memory. DALE