truck restoration

[Battis]

One of those questions...
I have a 1998 Chevy S10, 4 cylinder, standard transmission. Less than 100,000 miles on the truck. Starts every time, though there might be a wiring issue somewhere (short?).
It has body rust, but it's all I need for a truck.
So, is it worth it to partially restore the truck? I mean for highway driving, etc. Not to make it a show truck, but to make it safe and reliable. Pick an amount to put into it - say, $2000 to $5000 or whatever within reason. Replace rusted body parts, rewire engine, shocks, exhaust, etc.
Buying a new or used truck in good shape is not an option right now. This truck is old enough not to have to pass MA emission tests. A new truck would mean sales tax, increased insurance, and monthly payments.
You can't sell a vehicle in MA "as is" for parts or whatever, so it's either fix it or junk it.

[Bantou]

I’d say fix it so long as you could do it reasonably


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[oneofsix]

My .02¢

Fix electrical, structural (think frame), mechanical (engine, steering, transmission) before taking on body panels. Make sure it's safe and reliable, then tackle body because unless MA doesn't use salt on winter roads, it's a losing battle keeping the body nice.

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[RU shooter]

My .02¢

Fix electrical, structural (think frame), mechanical (engine, steering, transmission) before taking on body panels. Make sure it's safe and reliable, then tackle body because unless MA doesn't use salt on winter roads, it's a losing battle keeping the body nice.

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Fully agree with this steering and suspension for me are top priority , do as much of the work as you can yourself YouTube is a great resource for diy projects if your not exactly sure the steps and tools needed also Amazon is a good place for parts most of the time free shipping too . The body work can wait till inspection time . Rivet or weld patches or panels were needed and rattle can the color of choice .

[Winger Ed.]

I'd fix it, and have done that with most of the vehicles I've ever had.

In the old days- any car or truck I got had:
1.A blown engine.
2. Over a hundred gazillion miles on it.
3. needed a paint job.
4. was wrecked.
Always two, but sometimes three of the four.

I'd restore them as I went along, and kept most of them for another 10 years.

On yours, I'd get it safe and mechanically sound first, then do the body shell stuff last.

Cost wise- look at how many car payments it would take to cover what needs fixing
compared to how much longer it will go without the same car payment expense after you've fixed something.


Just being a standard trans. is worth a lot now days.
I have found that with the 6 speed manual in the F250----- nobody wants to borrow it.:bigsmyl2:

[LUCKYDAWG13]

If you spend 2k and get 2 or 3 more years out of it i would

[Bantou]

I'd fix it, and have done that with most of the vehicles I've ever had.

In the old days- any car or truck I got had:
1.A blown engine.
2. Over a hundred gazillion miles on it.
3. needed a paint job.
4. was wrecked.
Always two, but sometimes three of the four.

I'd restore them as I went along, and kept most of them for another 10 years.

On yours, I'd get it safe and mechanically sound first, then do the body shell stuff last.

Cost wise- look at how many car payments it would take to cover what needs fixing
compared to how much longer it will go without the same car payment expense after you've fixed something.


Just being a standard trans. is worth a lot now days.
I have found that with the 6 speed manual in the F250----- nobody wants to borrow it.:bigsmyl2:

I can’t say that I blame them. The clutch on my dad’s F250 was intense. If you drove it in traffic for very long your left leg started to cramp. I learned quickly to put it in granny low and just crawl along.


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[Scrounge]

One of those questions...
I have a 1998 Chevy S10, 4 cylinder, standard transmission. Less than 100,000 miles on the truck. Starts every time, though there might be a wiring issue somewhere (short?).
It has body rust, but it's all I need for a truck.
So, is it worth it to partially restore the truck? I mean for highway driving, etc. Not to make it a show truck, but to make it safe and reliable. Pick an amount to put into it - say, $2000 to $5000 or whatever within reason. Replace rusted body parts, rewire engine, shocks, exhaust, etc.
Buying a new or used truck in good shape is not an option right now. This truck is old enough not to have to pass MA emission tests. A new truck would mean sales tax, increased insurance, and monthly payments.
You can't sell a vehicle in MA "as is" for parts or whatever, so it's either fix it or junk it.

You can get a Hyundai Elantra for about $15K, payments under $200 a month. NOT a great car, but not bad. I'm on my 3rd. First was bought used, then traded in on a new one while I still owed a chunk of money on it. Beat crap out of that one, and traded it in on the one I have now, again while still owing a chunk on it. Preparatory to retiring, I paid it off. Still owed nearly $16K, but my wife has had a pretty reliable and comfy car to drive for the 9 years. Though I do give her a hard time about the small cargo capacity of her little silver truck. ;) Lay the back seats down, and you can get a 10" piece of pipe in there, or boards, or whatever. Gets 30-40MPG depending on how you drive and what kind of traffic you drive in. Is low to the ground, though, so deep puddles can be a problem. Because of my situation I was paying $440 a month on it. That wasn't good. If you're a good mechanic, I'd fix the safety and drivability issues first, comfort second, and cosmetics last if at all. Even a sub-200 dollar payment is a sucking chest wound in the best of times, and can be critical in bad times. Figure a year of those $200 payments you can buy $2400 worth of parts. I have a 98 chevy Silverado with the 5.7L engine, and a 4L60E auto trans. It's beat to crap outside, but runs pretty good most of the time. Last time I had a problem with it, I eventually realized I hadn't done a tune up on in TEN years. It does need AC work, and that won't be cheap. It's got to have the heater/AC fan fixed very soon, and it needs the tranny & engine fixed, some wiring fixed. Driver's door has been replaced because of a minor wreck, and much of the wiring trouble is probably in that door. I've had to replace the alternator & battery a couple of times, and work on the brakes a couple of times, too. Still think I've got less than $500 in repairs in it. Been driving it for 10 years. That's what? $4.17 a month? Only get about 15mpg, but I try not to drive it every day. Unless you find a major problem with your truck, you'll probably do OK. YMMV, of course! ;)

Bill

[osteodoc08]

The 2.2L in there was fairly reliable. The 5 speed isn’t overly robust but plenty for the 118-120hp those 4 bangers put out. I believe it was a New Venture 1500. I had a 1997 GMC Sonoma as my first new, new truck with manual everything. Put a bunch of miles on it with minimal maintenance. If you can get it road worthy for a few(1-2) grand, you’re ahead if it lasts a year.

[Huskerguy]

I worked/taught auto collision for 25 years, got out of that in 99. I agree with those who say to put the money in the mechanicals. Fixing rust is difficult and you rarely can find anyone who will do it right and guarantee it unless they put all new panels on. I always told people, it rusted once and it is even more likely to rust again the second time.

I fixed up a 90 Chevy half ton that was a light roll over. I went through brakes, engine, radiator, hoses, etc. Body looked good for several years, that was 98. I still have the truck and it is a rust bucket but is mechanically great. That truck won't catch the chicks but it is a hauler for my rentals and owes me nothing. Pouring a lot of money into vehicles is a losing proposition.

[Petrol & Powder]

Battis, only you can answer that question.
I've never heard of a state law that prevents an owner from selling something "as is" but if Massachusetts restricts how you handle the sale of your own property, make the sale outside of Massachusetts. Their authority ends at the state line.

A 22 year old truck in the northeast U.S. it likely to be more than just a little rusted. I suspect the more you look for rust, the more you will find. That doesn't mean the rust is fatal but I would be wary of dumping money into aesthetics just for the sake of aesthetics.
Make it mechanically sound and squeeze a few more years out of it. You're never getting your "restoration" money back out of that truck so all you're really doing is buying a few more years of use without going into debt for a replacement vehicle.

That truck is probably worth somewhere in the $1500-2500 range. Although you can't replace it for that, you can't sell it for much more than that either. So putting another $3000 in it doesn't make it a $5000 truck - it just makes it a better truck for you for a few years without taking on more debt.

There's a LOT to be said for an older, paid for vehicle. If it gets stolen - you've lost nothing. If it get's wrecked - you've lost nothing. The taxes are low. The inspections are easier. Insurance is cheap. You pretty much just pay for operating expenses and some repairs.

When the cost of repairs exceed the value of the truck, you sell it for what you can get and walk away.

[Petrol & Powder]

The 2.2L in there was fairly reliable. The 5 speed isn’t overly robust but plenty for the 118-120hp those 4 bangers put out. I believe it was a New Venture 1500. I had a 1997 GMC Sonoma as my first new, new truck with manual everything. Put a bunch of miles on it with minimal maintenance. If you can get it road worthy for a few(1-2) grand, you’re ahead if it lasts a year.

The gearbox is likely a New Venture 3500 and that's a good transmission if you keep the correct fluid in it.
The NV 3500 (and NV 3550 in Jeeps) was used in a lot of medium duty applications and as long as some idiot doesn't put the wrong fluid in it, they usually out-last the engine they are behind. Behind the Jeep 4.0 in-line six they performed just fine and some application put them behind V-8's. However, the bronze components in the synchronizers will NOT tolerate the incorrect fluid.


CORRECTION - I just saw the OP has a 4 cylinder. That may not be the NV3500 transmission. That could be the NV1500.

[skeettx]

Minimal repair to make it reliable.
Use it and be happy

Mike

[WebMonkey]

i'm working on an '85 K20 at the moment.

it has historical vehicle plates on it and i drive it to church or get a load of sand etc.

it doesn't look that great from the outside but i've rebuilt the rear brakes, flushed/filled fluids, etc.

i've cleaned/replaced/refit interior bits but will NOT do any 'real' body work.

i don't feel embarrassed driving it and the OP shouldn't feel embarrassed driving a vehicle that is mechanically sound/reliable.

drive on without a car payment.

good luck

:)

[megasupermagnum]

What's wrong with it? You aren't going to be able to rewire an engine, there's just too much. You may be able to buy a used harness, but it is far easier to simply find a problem and fix it.

The places to look on a s10 Chevy of that year is the front suspension. Ball joints, tie rods, control arms, all bushings, axle shafts (if 4x4), etc. That's the weak spot on those vehicles. It's always a good idea to put on new shocks and tires. Change ALL the fluids. Everything, engine, transmission, axles, coolant, it's not even a bad idea to flush (bleed) your brake lines. Forget anything to do with the body, let it be. It's just wasted money. Exhaust is up to you, unless there are strict noise regulations.

Then just your basic maintenance, sparkplugs, wires, filters, etc.


This is how I do it. My last truck I got 5-6 years ago, a 1994 Mazda B4000 with maybe 260,000 miles on it. I replaced the clutch once, did basic maintenance. So total with that work plus the price, maybe $1200-1500 into the truck. I still drive it daily, it just passed 310,000 miles. I'm going to see if it can make it to 400,000.

[Mk42gunner]

I drive junk. There I said it. I would rather spend two to three grand every five years than have a five hundred dollar a month vehicle payment every month. Add in full coverage insurance, and it makes even more sense to me to have older vehicles.

With that said, I am retired and don't have to be somewhere at a set time every day. If I had a job to get to, I would have a new vehicle to drive.

Driving junk, I have found it helpful to have a spare truck sitting around just in case.

I make sure they are safe, good brakes and steering, then worry about other little problems.

The biggest problems that I have found in the last fifteen years that will cause me to quit working on a vehicle from say the mid eighties up, is electrical issues. Once the wiring harness starts to go bad, you chase problems what seems like forever. Eventually you have to cut your losses and junk it.

Anything mechanical can be fixed, if you are willing and able. It may not be economically feasible to pay someone else to do it, but if you can do it yourself, its not so bad.

Robert

[rking22]

My daily driver, for the last 2 years, is a 97 S10, 2wd,V6 manual extended cab.Bought it for 150$, body very good, seats shot and 2nd gear was without sync. Oh, AC didn’t work, still dosent, no issue to me. I glued the review mirror back to the windshield, changed fluids, and did a bit of front suspension work, tires were ok, just ok. When I changed the trans fluid I found 2nd, mostly. Supposed to hold 2 quarts, I drained less than a pint! NV3500 trans must be pretty tough! That was it for about a year. Then had to put a radiator in, 50$! Battery, 125$. I put the tires for a 4x on it for better use on the farm, durn thing would get stuck on wet grass with the tires he had on it. That was 400$ for new tires, and I used the best 2 on a utility trailer. Had to have the drivers door hinge replaced, 150$. I think the original owner must have been a VERY large guy, seats crushed and door been leaned on too much. Anyway, 50 miles a day for work, I take it fishing cause it gets 25 MPG so I’ve run it from 212000 when I bought it to 238000 two years later. I like it, will probably keep it running till the electrical grimilins move in. Yep, I drive junk too, proud of it as well!

[Remiel]

Had a similar model, the fuse block was damaged (truck was wrecked and I got it for 50 bucks) and I ended up running the fuel pump off a toggle switch, check the block and grounds for damage and corrosion.

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[Battis]

I've patched the body rust several times. In MA, if there's a rust hole, it will not pass inspection. You can't sell a vehicle "as is" - it has to pass inspection (Lemon Law). If you sell it, and it doesn't pass inspection, you can be on the hook for repairs or a refund.
The biggest problem with this truck has been that it stalls for no apparent reason. I've had several mechanics scan it but the only thing that shows is the crank sensor (I think that's what it was). Replaced parts and eventually it stalls again. One mechanic took it for a test drive and it stalled 17 times but he couldn't get a reading on the scanner. Another scan once showed the anti-theft device kicking in. I've changed the fuel pump and the ignition control module - still stalled. I thought maybe it was the oil sensor but they tell me that the sensor in that truck was not the kind that causes problems (2 wire vs 3 wire). It could be the ignition, or just a short somewhere. It hasn't stalled in over a year, though I don't drive it too much. Chasing down a short might get pricey.
It's due for inspection next month. It should pass, but I still wouldn't take it on the highway.

[Remiel]

When it stalls, does it just cut out or act like its running out of gas? Sadly I've noticed that most mechanics nowadays forget that the all mighty scanner is not infallible and forget basic diagnostic techniques (as my father still impresses on me regularly as a retired auto mechanic of 25+years), makes me wonder if its more of a hands on issue and not a sensor based issue.

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[Bantou]

I've patched the body rust several times. In MA, if there's a rust hole, it will not pass inspection. You can't sell a vehicle "as is" - it has to pass inspection (Lemon Law). If you sell it, and it doesn't pass inspection, you can be on the hook for repairs or a refund.
The biggest problem with this truck has been that it stalls for no apparent reason. I've had several mechanics scan it but the only thing that shows is the crank sensor (I think that's what it was). Replaced parts and eventually it stalls again. One mechanic took it for a test drive and it stalled 17 times but he couldn't get a reading on the scanner. Another scan once showed the anti-theft device kicking in. I've changed the fuel pump and the ignition control module - still stalled. I thought maybe it was the oil sensor but they tell me that the sensor in that truck was not the kind that causes problems (2 wire vs 3 wire). It could be the ignition, or just a short somewhere. It hasn't stalled in over a year, though I don't drive it too much. Chasing down a short might get pricey.
It's due for inspection next month. It should pass, but I still wouldn't take it on the highway.

Chasing down a short does get pricey and there is no guarantee they will find it. My folks have a 95 Nissan hard body with a short in the fuel pump/dash circuit. It’s been to the mechanic 3 times now and they still can’t find it. It started out just drawing the battery down if it sat for more than a day. Now it stalls like crazy at low RPM. I’m debating trying to buy it off them and just re-wiring that circuit entirely.


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[abunaitoo]

When it stalls, how do you get it started again????
Do you just wait for a little while, and it will start and drive????
Do you have to let it sit over night????
When it stalls, do all the dash lights come on????
I'd rather drive older cars and trucks.
Less computer, less trouble.
I have a 1990 Maxima and a 1999 Frontier(4cly, 5ps, 2wd)
That body style lasted for a while, so junk yard should have lots of body parts.
I'd check the frame for rust before doing anything.

[Battis]

When it stalls, I pull over, sit a minute or two and usually it starts right back up. That problem has been keeping me from putting alot of money into fixing it up. The condition of the frame is something I should check out well.

[Remiel]

When it stalls, I pull over, sit a minute or two and usually it starts right back up. That problem has been keeping me from putting alot of money into fixing it up. The condition of the frame is something I should check out well.But does it strait cut off or diesel out?

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[Battis]

I'm not sure what diesel out means. Just before it stalls, it's almost like a switch was flipped, and I know it's coming. That's why I was wondering if it was the oil sensor that was causing it, but they say that's not the case in this truck.
Looking back, the crank and cam sensors show up on a scan every time it stalls (except for the one time when the anti-theft showed on the scan), but apparently it's a false reading.

[Remiel]

I'm not sure what diesel out means. Just before it stalls, it's almost like a switch was flipped, and I know it's coming. That's why I was wondering if it was the oil sensor that was causing it, but they say that's not the case in this truck.
Looking back, the crank and cam sensors show up on a scan every time it stalls (except for the one time when the anti-theft showed on the scan), but apparently it's a false reading.Dieseling out means that it sounds like a tractor trailer before stalling, also can be said to sound like it out or running out of gas, if it was the oil sensor it would just shut down sometimes it would give the oil light. But if you are getting some kind of warning (running rough before stall) it could be fuel related, did you have the pump tested and the tank checked for debris? Also if its a loose/bad ground it could cause the pump to run intermently, both first gen and 2nd gen s10's(and 88-98 full size trucks) have a ground wire that runs from the pump to a spot on the frame just above the rear axle at the arch and it screwed into a area that collects dirt and salt and can cause the end of the wire to corrode and lose connection.

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[Freightman]

Haven't had a car payment in 17 years and I drive a 31 year old F250 wife drives a 17 year old Mercury Grand Marque fix it and drive it as long as it works. A new F250 start at 40K that is a lot of fixing.

[Remiel]

Haven't had a car payment in 17 years and I drive a 31 year old F250 wife drives a 17 year old Mercury Grand Marque fix it and drive it as long as it works. A new F250 start at 40K that is a lot of fixing.I have a 98 k1500 with 240k on the clock, i just chase the rust and regular maintenance, we do have a car note for the wife's Toyota though, no choice, last car ended up with a bad frame and was already repaired once and we needed a car at the time.

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[Kraschenbirn]

When it stalls, I pull over, sit a minute or two and usually it starts right back up. That problem has been keeping me from putting alot of money into fixing it up. The condition of the frame is something I should check out well.

I know this may sound stupid but has anyone changed out the in-line fuel filter and checked/cleaned the fuel pump inlet screen? I once had an S10 (4.3L V-6) that would do exactly the same thing. 'Bout drove me and a mechanic buddy nuts (we've both got A&P certificates and he's been running a 'performance' shop for the last 20 years). Nothing 'fuel system' showed up on the diagnostic but we finally decided to pull fuel pump, anyway. Must have gotten a tankful of bad gas at some time or another...all kinds of crud on bottom of tank and pump screen about 50% clogged. Cleaned tank, screen, and replaced fuel filter; truck was still running without a hiccup when I sold it 4 years later.

Bill

[30calflash]

Do they use calcium on the roads in the winter there? That stuff eats everything from rectum to appetite! I'd look at the frame on a lift & make sure it isn't in self destruct mode. Look at fuel and brake lines while under there.

Some folks posted on the weak points on an S10, o look those over also.

I've a 96 mazda B2300 (think Ford Ranger) that has a strong frame. Runs great has 280K for mileage. I was going to give it the deluxe but found another Ranger extended cab and decided to go with that instead.

[Winger Ed.]

A new F250 start at 40K that is a lot of fixing.

If you can survive with a stripped down 'fleet' truck--
rubber mats, wind up windows, vinyl bench seat, steel rims, AM/FM radio--

See the Fleet Sales guy out in the little shack behind the dealership.
When new, fancy, 'city truck' F250s were 50-ish thousand, I got mine for 22K.

[Battis]

I tried many things to fix it - at one point I didn't turn the radio on and it didn't stall for a long time. My mechanic said I was nuts. He's right, and then the truck stalled again. I tried not having any weight on the keys in the ignition. I think it was GM vehicles that had ignition problems. Still stalled.
I did put a new fuel pump in and changed the inline fuel filter. It was really good for awhile, then stalled again. The pump I put in was a cheap one. That was a $1000 job back then for a mechanic to do it.
I really think it's a fuel tank/line issue. Lately I've been using a portable gas can to fuel it and it runs well. Or, a short somewhere...
I really should have the frame checked out before I think about putting money into it.

[megasupermagnum]

Chances are slim that it is a fuel line problem. If you want to fix this yourself, what you need to do is buy a fuel pressure gauge, and drive around with it until it stalls. If you have adequate fuel pressure, that is not your problem. If it was any kind of fuel flow problem, you would sputter, not die instantly. Now I am fuzzy on your exact model, but I want to say yours has the vortec fuel injection system. This system has a spider that distributes the fuel flow to each injector, but the catch is that each injector is essentially a poppet valve. It needs that pressure to overcome the spring, and that is what allows the fuel to atomize. If you are below that fuel pressure, it simply wont open at all. I want to say that cutoff is something like 55 PSI fuel pressure. However, I've not heard of a Vortec shutting down while running, fuel pressure problems almost always show themselves by a hard, or no start.


I have not seen exactly how it stalls. Is this while driving? If so, does it immediately start again?

[Battis]

I'll be driving along, then just before it stalls, I can feel a change in the power. Then it dies. Usually, it will start within a few minutes. If it sits overnight it'll start and drive like it's brand new.
Now I remember - the scans show either the crank or cam sensors, but they're both actually fine.

[skeettx]

At one time I had a 1970 MGB and the spark advance wire was broken INSIDE the insulation.
So when warm, the insulation would soften and allow the wire to gap causing the engine
to quit.
Then when the accelerator was not causing strain and the insulation was a bit cooler, the
engine would start and run just fine

Mike

[megasupermagnum]

I'll be driving along, then just before it stalls, I can feel a change in the power. Then it dies. Usually, it will start within a few minutes. If it sits overnight it'll start and drive like it's brand new.
Now I remember - the scans show either the crank or cam sensors, but they're both actually fine.

It is possible it is a fuel problem. Ideally, you would drive around with a fuel pressure gauge until it happens again, and check. I once ran into a problem on someone's 1998 chevy 1500 I was asked to look at. In this case, it was very hard to start, but ran fine once going. I checked multiple times, and fuel pressure was good. Finally one time I noticed I heard the fuel pump sounding weak. Before I could do any more checking, the guy decided to buy a fuel pump unfortunately. This one still didn't work. I looked at it again, and noticed that the ground wire on this particular Chevy didn't go to the frame, it only went to the engine. Apparently Chevy engineers thought the rubber motor mounts, and thin metal strapping (over painted metal) was an adequate ground. I checked from battery to frame, and sure enough, something like 200 ohms. I ran a proper ground cable from engine to frame, and cleaned the fuel pump ground. That fixed that problem.

[Winger Ed.]

[QUOTE=megasupermagnum;4927120]I ran a proper ground cable from engine to frame, /QUOTE]

I've seen a couple guys go crazy chasing a problem and finally found it to be a ground.

Electricity will try to find a ground:
A mechanic buddy got a car in once that the emergency brake cable was stuck and wouldn't pass state inspection.
He stomped on it some- that didn't fix it.
He pulled it off and found it had welded itself to the metal sheath.

Every pathway for electricity was insulated or missing between the grounds to the body shell, to the engine, to the frame.
It found a path through the emergency brake cable, and eventually welded itself together.

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s: Something that nobody has yet mentioned.Have you tried a known good coil yet?Had the same problem with one of my vehicles.Tried another coil.Fixed the problem.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[EDG]

I had a 77 Ford F-150 that stalled going down the freeway in heavy traffic - i let it roll off to the shoulder and it restarted.
It did that a few more times and I researched the problem. It was a common problem in those vehicles and was the electronic ignition module.

I put a new electronic ignition module in it and it quit stalling for about a year. So I put another in and it quit for another year. The next module i bought was a higher quality electronics brand - Standard - Blue Streak. That was the end of my stalling issues. It ran another 15 years without stalling.

[abunaitoo]

Being how old it is, I'd say a fuel problem.
Get a can of carb cleaner or spray starting fluid.
Next time it dies, spray some in the air intake.
If it starts, you've found your problem.
Screen in the tank is sucking up rubbish in the tank.
Drop the tank and clean out the rubbish.
I would change the pump and screen since the tank is out.
If I remember correct the line at the tank need a special tool to remove.
Quick disconnect tool.
Those old S10 don't give that much trouble.

[Bazoo]

Sounds like a fuel problem to me. Maybe a bad ground on the pump. Or maybe a bad sensor related to it.

My uncle told me of a friend that had similar issues. Well the thing cut off somewhere at the wrong spot and this guy got out and unloaded his pistol into it. It fired up and run fine a while. They traced the bullet holes and found one had grazed the fuel tank next to the pump. Turns out it was a bad pump.

Mom had a Buick with a 3800 in it. So the fuel pump went out and I bought a new one and installed it. A Bosch. It still wouldn't start. I took the line loose and no pressure. I stopped by the gm dealer and asked a mechanic about it and he said it's the fuel pump. So I explained I had just replaced it and he said "it's still the fuel pump". So I removed it and returned it and replaced it with another new one and problem solved.

With car problems and with life in general, the easiest answer is usually the right one.

[Lloyd Smale]

not much collector value to an s10 so your probably looking at a truck that will sell for 2k. So it depends. Me I would just leave it as is and run it into the ground and then buy another with the money youd spend restoring it. Even buying paint and body materials today is very expensive. My take on it is if it were rust free I might tackle it. But if its rusty its rusty in places you can see too. Some of them can effect the structure of the vehicle. Then at a 100k im sure it needs brakes shocks steering components rebuilt wheel bearings ect. Add body work and paint to it and even if you can do it yourself your talking a lot of work when in the end you wont recoup your investment.

[Bookworm]

While you are checking the fuel pump, go ahead and replace the plug that connects the pump to the wire loom. The pigtail.

Many times there will be an intermittent bad connection inside the plug.

They are only a few bucks new at the dealer or a car parts store.

[Petrol & Powder]

The MA Lemon law appears to have some limitations:

https://www.mass.gov/guides/guide-to-used-vehicle-warranty-law

It appears to apply to primarily to dealers (but there are some parts that apply to private sales) There is a 125K mileage cutoff. It has to fail the state safety and emissions test. The buyer must notify the seller within 14 days.

And you can avoid all of that government intrusion into your private transaction by simply not selling the car IN Massachusetts.

[Battis]

The truck has 97,000 miles on it, and I'm sure I could sell it, but, in good conscience, I couldn't sell the truck with its stalling problem. Yeah, it might pass inspection, and I could tell the buyer about the problem, but it's actually a dangerous situation not knowing when it will stall.

[Bazoo]

There is a fat guy down to autozone in town. He knows his stuff. You ask him whatever and he'll just tell you it's xyz and he's helped me a bunch. He's a car guy and seen it all. Point is, you might find your local car nut at the parts store and he'll be able to tell you " sure we see that all the time it's xyz".

[Ozark mike]

Well im the local nut for libby mt mechanics bring there junk iron to me they cant figure out and i can tell you there is some good info here and some bad 1st newventure 3500 is not med duty it is light duty clark 5spd is a med duty trans try to fit that into a jeep 2nd 70 mgb mk3 should have centrifugal and vacuum advancer and points which are set to .015 never in my life have i seen an advancer wire with the exception of some cdi systems like used on the honda cx500 That had advancer coils instead they had a switch/solenoid on the throttle that would drop vacuum to the canister in 4th but thats a diffrent story. On to the r
OP it sounds like a fuel issue does it happen at higher speeds more often then lower speeds. If so you could have a constricted fuel line from filters rust gunk kinks sock in the tank + others if it quits from electrical resistance from heat build-up and wires separating then there will be no reduced power it will quit period nothing nodda
Oh im a former a&p on f16s and a10s certified auto diesel mech small engine mech powersports just pretty much anything with a engine external and internal combustion.

Ps I to perfer the old stuff 67 loadstar as a hauler and 72 beetle and 82 gl1100 67 wagoneer with the amc327 as my commuters

[Battis]

It seems to happen right around 30-40 mph. One mechanic said it acts like a fuel pump gone/going bad. I did replace the fuel pump but that brings in two things: 1st- I used a cheap fuel pump. 2nd - I did the work. I'm not a dummy but I'm not a mechanic, which means I might have missed something that a pro wouldn't have missed.
Then again, it might be the ignition, since GM did have that problem.
I'm thinking it's fuel related. It seems to me that it stalled more after pumping gas - that's why I started using a portable gas can. Maybe there's crud in the tank, or line. Maybe it's the cheap pump.
Or, it's a short somewhere. Someone suggested that maybe it's the negative ground from the battery.
I had it out Saturday - it ran fine. Then again, I didn't go over 40 mph.

[Ozark mike]

Is it a inline or intank pump. If you put a inline pump on the truck with the stock intank still fitted then i would suggest the sock is clogged and when higher volumes is needed its not there. Easiest way to diagnose fuel issues is to mount a pressure gauge in the cab i have a permanent 15psi gauge mounted in my truck for that reason tells me if fuel pump is goin or the filter cogging and even if the float needle sticks all by one little gauge teed right off the carb

[Battis]

It's an in-tank pump. It did run better for awhile after I installed it, then it began stalling again. Occasionally it would stall at slow speeds. I probably should have replaced the oil sensor even though I was told it was not an issue.

[Jsm180]

If your tank is full of trash/rust you may have clogged the new pump.

[DougGuy]

Pouring a lot of money into vehicles is a losing proposition.

Here's how to fix your old truck. Get on Craigslist, pick an area that doesn't get much snow (way less salt) and start looking for another old S-10. The 1998 year model would be VERY affordable, you could no doubt buy a replacement for it for less than the upkeep yours is going to cost you, and you wouldn't have body rust being a southern vehicle.

If you really wanted to get out cheap, you can find another old S-10 that needs motor work, and put your engine and/or transmission into it. The stalling is not in your engine, it's in something that controls the engine.

[Buzz Krumhunger]

I had a Jeep Wagoneer that had a problem similar to what OP describes. It turned out to be the sock filter in the gas tank. The tank had what appeared to be leaves in it, (thanks, kids) and if I drove it far, they’d get sucked up against the sock filter and block it off.

[Idaho45guy]

Giving advice on whether to spend money or replace is sketchy if one isn't familiar with vehicle prices and conditions in the OP's area.

I would never spend $2000 on an old S10, unless it was some rare performance model like the Cyclone.

Kid I work with drives a `98 S10 extra cab 2wd in nice shape with about 100k miles on it. He paid $1500 for it a couple of years ago.

I just passed up an immaculate `96 F150 supercab 2wd with 130k miles on it for $2500.

These are both straight and nice looking rust-free vehicles since we don't salt the roads up here.

My best friend has an `89 F150 that he bought brand new. Just a 2wd regular cab with the straight six and a 5spd. He drove it all over the country as a journalist with a canopy on it and a mattress in the back. It has 490,000 miles and is on the original motor and transmission. He lives in Arizona, so no rust, but the silver and gray paint was faded and peeling and the interior was getting toasted.

But it was the only new vehicle he ever purchased and he loves it, so when he retired a few years ago, he had it repainted and the interior re-done. Cost him around $6000. About what the truck cost new. It was worth it to him at an emotional level. I'll likely get it when he passes and treat it like a rare muscle car.

[Battis]

I don't need a truck - I have two cars - but I have the truck, and I like it. I use it to bring the leaves to the compost dump, or transport the Pooch to the woods, kayaks to the lake, etc. My son says I should get something made in this century, though he didn't complain when he drove it.
If I had a garage, it'd be a good rebuild project.

[Texas by God]

I just keep my old ones going. A 1000 dollars every so often is way better than $700/month for a new truck. My daily driver 06 Ford Ranger looks like something from Mad Max but runs great and the A/C works @ 246,000 miles- same V6 motor. My 02 Chevy Silverado 4wd cost me $2500 from a coworker. 260,000 miles and uses a titch of oil. I would drive either one across Texas and back.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[rking22]

speaking of Texas and back, my 03Yukon flipped over 300,000 on just this side of Memphis, on the way to San Antonio! That was 40,000 miles ago and probably taking it 150 miles to Nashville and back in a few minutes. Can’t complain, I bought it with 13,000 on it in 03, don’t see it going anywhere till they probate my will!

[DougGuy]

Here's how I budget my vehicles. I try to drive a vehicle for a year, for what most folks pay for a month's payment. Meaning, I buy a vehicle for 2400.00 and I put 600.00 into it and I drive it for 10yrs, equals out to $300 per year that it cost me.

I bought a 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier wagon in 2009 for $1500 with 82k on it. I put a couple sets of tires on it, did a little engine work to fix an oil leak, spent about $450 fixing the AC, I drove it 11 years and sold it for $600 in decent enough shape to pass inspection. That was one of the most affordable cars I ever owned, and with a Z24 engine it ran it's little behootie off. This one cost me less than $200 a year.

Before that I bought a 1994 Astro Van in 2006 that moved me several times before the trans went out in it, it sat for a couple of years then got fixed and moved me again. I think I paid $2200.00 for it, ebay deal, and it's been a good work truck, I worked construction and it hauled a big gangbox from job to job, it worked it's butt off the whole time I have owned it. I still have it and will offer it up for sale soon for $1k OBO. Overall I have owned it 14yrs and put a motor and a transmission in it, so lets say it cost me $4500 roughly, so it cost me about 320.00 a year.

I have a 99 S-10 Blazer 4WD that I paid $2200 for with 135k on it, it had a new motor with only 1,100 miles on it, and I have put a 1,200 transmission in it. I have had it 5 years, it sits mostly, it was my date wagon when I was unoccupied, it's cherry as they come, looks like it was made last week. Beautiful condition. I could easily get $3500 for it since it's in exceptional condition and the drive train has very low miles.

I have never owned a new car, never financed a car, never had a car payment in my whole life. I don't think I am missing anything...

This year I stepped up to a 2008 Nissan Xterra, bought it for $2100, it needed an engine and complete exhaust, tires, and brakes. Jeez I could dual out 5 GM cars for what the exhaust components alone cost. I have over $6k in it, and kicking myself but the investment is in the parts and most are low miles or new so it should last me a good while. It's a cut above the GM vehicles I have been driving, and you pay dearly for that Asian engineering.

I think my philosophy of driving a vehicle for a year for what folks pay for a month is about at it's end. Parts are too expensive, vehicles just don't last, and you need a high end scanner to do much of anything in the way of repairs beyond the basic codes.

[Petrol & Powder]

DougGuy wrote: ".....I have never owned a new car, never financed a car, never had a car payment in my whole life. I don't think I am missing anything..."

Not only are you not missing anything - YOU ARE WAY AHEAD OF THE GAME.

Vehicles are not investments, they are expenses. They can be big expenses or not as big expenses but they are only expenses.

[Ozark mike]

Most of my vehicles cost around $500 and I've been driving them fo years gl1100 is getting ready to hit 200000 bought with 40000 for $400 11 years ago

[Battis]

I just got rid of a 2001 Lincoln Towncar with 227,000 miles on it. I have another 2005 Lincoln Towncar with 104,000 miles on it. It's like driving in your living room. We did break down and buy a 2018 Buick Regal TourX Essence (think I got all the words) with 16,000 miles on it. It's basically a sleek station wagon, and it's Da Balls.

[Hank Ryan]

The "2018 Buick Regal TourX Essence" sure is a mouthful. Hahaha! Nonetheless, it's a nice car to drive around. If ever you'll be needing a good set of aftermarket wheels or tires for any future replacements, you may check out 4WheelOnline. All of the quality tires and rims that they offer are very affordable.

[Lloyd Smale]

I like a nice truck. But then cars and truck are my second passion next to guns. I wouldnt want a beat up old gun just because its saved me 300 bucks over a new nice one. I dont always buy new. My jeep and challenger were bought used but low miles and like new. My trucks are replaced about every 3 years by a new one. I kind of chuckle at some who say its dumb when they probably buy harleys or atvs or boats. It depends on what you like. I also have at least one vechicle that way that i can jump in tomorrow and head coast to coast with no worrys and if it breaks on the way i can just pull into a dealership and have it fixed for nothing. I also put loan insurance on the truck. Yup some will say thats stupid but i dont have life insurance so if i die the wife has 3 vehicles and she can peddle two of them and a bunch of guns and bury me and be set. I dont want ANY vehicle that im listening to some sound and dont know what it is or has some kind of weird feel in the wheel or the tires and brakes arent up to snuff. My ma said the only toys i wanted when i was a little boy were cars trucks and guns. Its still that way. If you cant afford a new truck then dont buy one. Nothing wrong with that. Everyone has a different budget. But trying to make someone out that can afford one and takes pride in his vehicles to be stupid for doing it is just silly. If you can afford it and dont then i have to ask you what your going to do with your money when your planted in the ground. Me? im going to spend mine. I worked hard to get where im at and dont plan on dieing with a fat savings account book. My dad is like that. He is a tight as a drum. For the last 10 years i think every time he rides in my truck he says he wants a new one. Hes got enough in the bank to by 5 of them cash. Hes 89 years old. What kind of insanity is that. I tell him all the time to take my share of the inheritance and buy a truck. I dont need his money. Niether do any of my sisters. If you want to live the only life you have driving a junky rusty truck with 200k on it so that you can sit in a chair and stroke that savings account book then have at it. Me? Im going to live the last 15-20 years i have left. Whos the real dummy here. Me with my nice new truck or you with that little book. Me who busted my but to get to the point i can afford one or you that settled for less.