Broken thumbhole stock

[fiberoptik]

I fumbled the ball [emoji458] & dropped my Swede with thumbhole stock. Now I have a Swede pistol [emoji379]. Help!!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/258b6b7179cd3596bfc9d39f31b6e711.jpg


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[Winger Ed.]

Oh no,,,

That might be fixable, but it'll take some one a whole lot smarter than I am.

[elmacgyver0]

Looks like time for a new stock.
Doesn't look like enough meat there for a reliable repair.
Doesn't mean you can't try though.

[Bazoo]

Might be fixable depending on how clean it fits back together. If it fits together clean, Elmer's dark wood glue would be my choice. Then drill for pins and use brass and epoxy. If it ain't clean it might be able to be shortened slightly to make it clean and then the same. Just pends on how bad it is the approach I'd take. Personally I think I could fix it.

[roverboy]

What Bazoo said, might work. I've never tried fixing a thumb hole but, I would give it a try.

[Texas by God]

LOTS of handgun and knife handles there. Time to restock that Swede!

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[rancher1913]

if you dont care if the patch looks a little ruff, use gorilla glue and glue it back together. worth a shot if nothing else just to get you by til a new stock can be had.

[Deadeye Bly]

Brownells Acraglas is your best bet. Should be a good permanent fix as strong as new. Looks like with the jagged break there is lots of surface area for the bond.

[LAGS]

The stock is repairable.
But you shouldn't just butt glue it back together.
It needs some blind reinforcement pins to help reinforce it and keep it aligned.
In the past , I have repaired two and they worked out fine.

[fiberoptik]

Brownells Acraglas is your best bet. Should be a good permanent fix as strong as new. Looks like with the jagged break there is lots of surface area for the bond.

How long does unopened Acraglas last? Bought a box years ago, not stored well. Heat, not freezing. Hope it’s still good. Unopened glues sure don’t last.


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[porthos]

it is fixable. when i was in the "stocksmith" business i glued maybe 8-10 stocks that were in 2 pieces. hopefully the pieces will re-join tightly (or close to it) for glue use acraglass. above all never use gorilla glue, please! test your older acraglass before using by mixing a small batch. if everything seems like it will work; your next problem will be setting the 2 pieces (now one piece) vertically so that the original contour is still straight. or horizontal if you can shim it properly to keep it straight. one issue with this kind of break is to keep acraglass from running out. this is why i would recommend acraglass gel. and, if it works, pin it afterwards.. PLAN AHEAD!!

[fouronesix]

That looks particularly challenging. You might be able to pin the lower break after initial glue up but maybe not the top break. I'd just resign my self to a general re-contour, re-sand and refinish after the repair. Get some decent stock bedding epoxy and tint it to about the wood color. Use maybe 1/8' or 1/4" steel bolt all thread pins for top and bottom. Carefully eyeball drill holes with a handheld drill for both ends of each pin. Might have to be a little oversized and wallowed slightly to allow for any misalignment. Make sure to check alignment before starting to use compound. Apply compound to pins and holes and rig some form of clamp or binding to hold together until setup complete. Allow 24 hrs or so. File and sand to original contour as close as possible and refinish. May have to feather both the compound and the finish if only re-finishing part that is around the repair.

[Wayne Smith]

Dowell pins are something you need. They fit into the hole on one piece and have a sharp point on the other. This marks the spot to drill the other hole. Woodworking catalogs typically carry them. I've had my set for years.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I'm thinking https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/ and just be done with it

[LAGS]

I repaired the stocks using blind pins by using 3" long Wood Screws.
I screwed the one end into the stock half the length sticking straight out to be set into the other part of the stock.
I then cut the head off the screw and then drilled a hole into the other part of the stock.
I drilled the hole into the other part of the stock a little oversized.
After fitting , I applied the glue or epoxy and was sure to fill the drilled holes.
When the screw was inserted into the hole , the exposed threads on the screw shank acted as rebar and would grip into the glue.
I do the same method to attach Nose Caps on stocks and have never had one come loose.
The blind screw gives you a better finish than the other types of screw in pins that you put in After the wood is glued back together.

[roadie]

It can probably be repaired with pins and epoxy. I'd use threaded pins and it looks like the bottom break will be the tough part as it's broken on an angle. The top looks to be more a straight across break, so will align easier and possibly hold easier.

One thing is sure, you don't have a lot to lose by trying to fix it.

[Slugster]

Pins and Acura-glas, followed by a refinish. Or you could call Richard's Micro-fit and order a new "Wildcat" stock if you are stuck on that pattern. That appears to be one of RMF's stocks.

[KCSO]

Drill it for brass reinforcing rods and then glue with acraglass and it will be as trong as new. Tint the acragalss to match the finish and it won't look too bad either.

[fiberoptik]

I would love a full length stock on it but wifey frowns on $$ spent on my hobbies. I’m going to have to repair... it needed a refinish anyways, along with a new buttpad. Bubba sanded it off on the bottom. I have around an inch or so of wood to work with. Sure felt sick hearing it hit the floor and “Crack!”


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[swheeler]

Darcy would just extend the upper tang on receiver all the way back into cheek piece:bigsmyl2: I think some 1/4 inch all thread and acraglass gel along with some careful drilling could make a repair safely, the swede isn't going to destroy it with recoil.

[samari46]

PM member Ben as I remember him doing both repairs and inletting of gunstocks. he could probably repair your busted thumbhole stock. Frank

[fiberoptik]

Bubba probably didn’t do the best inletting either. Haven’t pulled to look underneath yet, but from what I do see I aint impressed....


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[15meter]

If it "keys" back together tightly and you didn't lose any splinters I would try just wood glue, Titebond is my preferred brand.

You are looking for long grain to long grain glue surface. The bottom break looks like you have a fair amount of surface, top break not as much.

Buy a small bottle of Titebond, get a scrap of wood and break it in a similar break. Use it to practice gluing it back together.

Several times.

Wait 24 hours and try breaking the practice glue joints.

I'll bet the wood will fail somewhere other than the glue joint.

And the practice joints will let you see how much glue to apply to get a good squeeze out, and how to clean up the squeeze-out before it sets up. And how to clamp it during cure.

You want ZERO glue on the surface to perhaps interfere with the new finish.

Nothing mars a good tight glue repair as much as glue that won't let the stain/finish penetrate/adhere evenly.

It can be repaired, just takes a little patience and PRACTICE.

Not sure I would try the dowel thing, I've seen where the dowels have pulled things out of alignment and not let the wood fibers line back up more often than not.

Cross grain doweling is also something I try to avoid. Wood moves differently, along the grain as opposed across the grain. And you don't need to get into the wood movement differences between species. Not many people have walnut dowels on their bench.

And I'm not sure you want to get into the brass rod vs wood movement. Those kinds of joints usually come apart over time.

They certainly do here in S.E. Michigan with summer humidity running close to 100% and winter indoor humidity well under half that in the winter with the heat on.

Good luck, hope you get the Swede shooting again, they are fun to shoot, I've got one in original configuration.

I believe it is even factory drilled for peep sights. Just have to find one that fits that doesn't cost twice what I paid for the rifle. It was a garage sale steal.

[OutHuntn84]

Your best bet will be to pin and glue it as others have recommended. Take your time and you will get it :)

[country gent]

Im of a slightly different opinion here. the thin cross section at the break arnt doing to support dowels or pins as well as a solid stock would. I believe I would glue it back together and then find a board as close to matching as possible cut 2 pieces to fit and inlet into stock gluing in place with a snug fit or better yet dovetailed in place. This will allow for much more surface area and leave more wood in the stock to support the repair. A poece of wood 1/2-3/4" wide 3/8 or so Thick and as long as can be used inlet in and then finished to match the stock lines will make a very strong repair. If your worried about is showing make it a decorative shape and let it show.

[Deadeye Bly]

Pins or dowells will just make it a more difficult task to do. 15 meter and country gent both have good ideas except I trust Acraglas more than wood glues. I fell on a new Ruger 77 in the fall of 1972 and broke it thru the wrist, back of the action and into the magazine box area. I carried 4 pieces of wood out of the woods that day. Not a splinter was missing. I repaired it with Acraglas with no pins of any kind and it is still as good or better than new 48 years later.

You can reinforce the repair after getting it back together as country gent suggested. Then it will probably be stronger than before with good lap joints on the reinforcement pieces.

[fiberoptik]

The break is really jagged, & in the thinnest spot. No pieces or slivers, just the 2. Good surface area. Here’s the break.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200611/97d4e1df26a322b1588fa870e788390f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200611/07022cfe1ab13b7986cf0e279c6e5053.jpg


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[15meter]

The break is really jagged, & in the thinnest spot. No pieces or slivers, just the 2. Good surface area. Here’s the break.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200611/97d4e1df26a322b1588fa870e788390f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200611/07022cfe1ab13b7986cf0e279c6e5053.jpg


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As I said before, scrap wood and glue and practice if you're not used to doing this kind of repair.

I work with wood on a regular basis, I have a fully equipped wood shop to play in so I've got all the stuff I need to do that kind of repair. And they show up fairly regularly, a friend or family member walks in with something "busted" with the can you fix it question.

With out doing it regularly it can be intimidating. That's the reason for the practice, practice, practice recommendation.

What have you got to lose? It's already broken, a bottle of glue is cheap, my only recommendation on what glue NOT to use is gorilla glue, it foams out of the joint and is miserable to clean up. Plus it stains your hands.

[15meter]

And if you do try gluing, go through dry fitting it and clamping it several times to get the process down.

You don't want to get it put together with glue all over it and figure out you need a third hand to tighten the clamp that is still in the drawer because you forgot to get it out. Been there, done that by getting cocky, "this is a simple fix, I'll knock it out in a minute" kind of rush.

And most glues don't need massive clamping forces. A lot of people who are not used to this kind of thing usually over clamp and squeeze out all the glue leaving a glue starved joint.

[15meter]

I fumbled the ball [emoji458] & dropped my Swede with thumbhole stock. Now I have a Swede pistol [emoji379]. Help!!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/258b6b7179cd3596bfc9d39f31b6e711.jpg


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Tried gluing it yet?

[fiberoptik]

Haven’t been able to find my Acraglass yet. Pretty sure it’s in the shed, but which box......!


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[Bazoo]

One of the tricks I use is to sand the ridges of the broken interior to relieve a few thousands. Being careful not to do the edges of the break so it'll stay crisp. This gives a little clearance for glue.

I'd consider inletting a couple brass dutchmen over the breaks after it was glued back together.

[fiberoptik]

One of the tricks I use is to sand the ridges of the broken interior to relieve a few thousands. Being careful not to do the edges of the break so it'll stay crisp. This gives a little clearance for glue.

I'd consider inletting a couple brass dutchmen over the breaks after it was glued back together.

??? Brass Dutchmen? Please explain.


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[elmacgyver0]

??? Brass Dutchmen? Please explain.


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I think he means little metal plates across the break for reinforcement.
A Dutchman is a term old craftsmen used to use for a "patch".

[Markopolo]

wow.... i would have to pass with my limited knowledge and find a new stock... i would always be worrying about it in our super wet rain forest...

[Bazoo]

Dutchman is a patch that's inletted across a joint or crack to give it strength. Or to cover a knot or bullet hole as a decoration. It's usually in the shape of an hourglass but can be any shape.

[fiberoptik]

How thick are they? Where are they found?
I was debating running some threaded rod through it if I could. Or maybe some pegs.

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[Bazoo]

You make them yourself. So they are whatever thickness you want. For wood cracks they are 1/4" or so. For a brass one for your stock I'd try for 3/32 thick brass shim stock. They way you do it is, cut you patch the shape and size you want, with any curvature you need. Then place it where you want and trace it with an exacto knife. Then carefully inlet the spot with a knife and a small chisel. Get the depth close but leave enough so the Dutchman is a touch high so it can be sanded the last thousands to flush. Epoxy it in place after it fits the way you want. You can super glue a small little wood handle on the Dutchman to assist in fitting it so you can get it out of the recess.

[15meter]

wow.... i would have to pass with my limited knowledge and find a new stock... i would always be worrying about it in our super wet rain forest...

There are a lot of waterproof glues out there, the epoxies, Titebond has several waterproof versions.

The advantage of the Titebond glues is you can use water to clean up any squeeze out BEFORE it cures.

All the epoxies or polyurethanes need solvents to clean before cure.

Lots of wood boats/canoes/kayaks are held together with epoxies and no mechanical fasteners.

Look up West System epoxy, I've been using it for 45 years now, buy it by the gallon. Tough stuff.

[fiberoptik]

They’re in Bay City. Was a 1/2 hour from home!


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[15meter]

:hijack:

264090


Epoxy project, West System at it's best.

Probably capable of holding the stock together.

24' curved laminated backbone. 20' curved laminated runner plank, in essence a wooden leaf spring. Plus a 29' wood laminated mast.

Capable of 50+ MPH with the right ice and wind(and skipper).

Probably capable of holding the stock together.

[fiberoptik]

They sell it down near Jax Beach at the marinas. I’ll have to make a trip.


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[15meter]

They sell it down near Jax Beach at the marinas. I’ll have to make a trip.


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If it's a decent West system dealer they will have a user manual(usually free) on how to mix it and what you can mix in for thickeners. The thickeners make it as close to putty as you want, stays in the joint better. Be aware that depending on whether you use a thickener or not and which one you use will affect how visible glue line will be when you are finished. Matching saw dust from the same species is probably the best match.

Again, if you are not familiar with doing this, try a couple of practice glue-ups to get you comfortable.

Mix just enough to do the job, that small a job you probably won't run into problems, be aware that epoxy cures through a chemical cure, creating heat. Mix up a large quantity and don't get it spread, it can get stupid hot. Hurt you kind of hot. Smoke rising from the container kind of hot.

[fiberoptik]

Got it. Small batch=less heat.


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[Tokarev]

Not fixable, not worth it, will break again. Get a new stock.

[onelight]

That will be a difficult fix. Not much wood to work with.
If you could tolerate seeing the end of the dowels or plugs over them you could glue it back to together and drill for the dowel holes where you have enough meat in the stock to receive them and refinish.
or possibly add a small brass or wood inlay to hide them.

[fiberoptik]

Called West System Epoxy, picked up epoxy recommended, along with threaded brass rod in appropriate sizes. Yet to make room for the job; too many “honey do’s”!


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[porthos]

glad to see that you are going to fix it. if done carefully it will NOT break. remember to think ahead. by the way, that epoxy is runny. spread a thin coat over the breaks; let the rest set for a while until it gets a little like paste (this will keep it from running so much) mix up a practice batch so that you'll know what to look for.

[EDG]

I would buy a piece of 1/2" G-10 tubing. This is the same material used for fiberglass circuit boards

https://accurateplastics.acculam.com/viewitems/g10-fr4-epoxy-fiberglass/epoxyglas-trade-g10-fr4-laminate-tube

Drill hols in the stock and put 2 pieces of G-10 in the holes with a good strong epoxy. You will have a joint but the joint will be stronger than the rest of the stock.