Redding micrometer pistol seater shaving lead

[Chuck Perry]

I have Redding Micrometer seating dies for 38 Special and 357 Magnum. I am shaving lead when seating cast bullets. Some info:

1) Cases are expanded using a Lyman M Die. The outside of the expanded case measures .386. Bullets have a good "press fit" when inserted by hand prior to seating.
2) These Redding dies do not crimp, per the manual and confirmed via email with Redding tech.
3) The bullets are commercially cast 158g RN with a flat point, coated with HiTek. All bullets measure consistently at .358.
4) Using calipers I measure the interior diameter of the Redding die at .380. Conversely a Dillon 357 seater measures at .385. The Dillon die does not shave lead when seating these same bullets.
5) If I run an expanded but bulletless case thru the Redding seater die, the case mouth measures .380 outside/.358 inside when done.

The Dillon die obviously works for my purposes, but I am more than a bit irritated that my super duper Redding die cannot be used. I exchanged emails with a Redding tech who confirmed this die is intended for jacketed bullets no greater than .357. He suggested I try their standard 357 Magnum seating die for cast. I happen to have one and checked; it too measures .380 same as the micrometer seating die. I tried and it also shaves lead. I am kicking around having the Redding die modified, by opening it up to .385. However I am having trouble locating a machinist locally that can do the job, and I'm wondering if it's worth what someone will charge. I really like the easy adjustability of the Redding die. If I could find a substitute product that lets me do that and is compatible with cast bullets I would just buy it and be done with the problem. Is there a manufacturer out there that has what I want?

[onelight]

Have you chamfered the case mouth inside ?
If you have not it might help .

[Chuck Perry]

I have not. Good idea, I will give that a try.

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[Taterhead]

Chuck, I feel your pain!!

My Redding micro seater in 40/10mm is likewise too tight in the opening of the die mouth. It closes the case mouth before reaching the seating stem. Really tough to consistently avoid scraping lead.

My micro crimp die had the identical issue and was closing the case mouth with the die body before reaching the crimp plug. It would apply a hard "crimp" even with the crimp plug removed altogether. It was that tight in the mouth of the die.

I sent the micro crimp die to Redding and they opended the mouth of the die a little. It is much better now. They did say that there is a limit to how much it can be opened due to the hardness of the steel. It took about 6 weeks, but it now works for my 10mm cast ammo. I am strongly considering sending the seater to them since it sits on the shelf when I use cast bullets. Shame. Still wouldn't solve the other issue below.

The one other demerit to that seater is that they no longer have choices for different plug profiles. It flat doesn't work for some.

Here is an example of seating issues with the Redding comp seater. The stem doesn't fit the bullet, and closing the case mouth while seating causes a lot of seating force. For those that aren't familiar with the tool, it is not actually designed to crimp. So it can't be"backed out" to crimp less. The mouth of the die body itself is too tight.

I don't think Redding had cast bullets in mind when designing this tool. Very nicely machined, in typical fashion, but obviously designed tolerances for jacketed bullets.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvt3JypN/20190201_202637.jpg

So I went back to RCBS seaters for 10/40 where I can choose from a variety of seating plugs. I have 4 different profiles to chose from.

[Chuck Perry]

Thanks Tater, makes me feel better to hear from someone else with the same issue. I have a Hornady seater that I'm going to try. I believe they make an add-on micrometer stem for their seaters, might be what I'm looking for.

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[1hole]

Case mouth chamfering was invented to solve your bullet wall shaving problem. ;)

Handguns aren't B.R. rifles and there's not much reward in trying to load for them as if they are. I've never found micrometer level seating depths to make any measurable "on target" difference in revolver accuracy - seems the jump from case mouth to the lands is much too great for tiny things like that to matter. (But our loading tool makers are quite happy to produce any gimmicks some of us will buy.)

[Chuck Perry]

So. I chamfered and loaded 6 rounds with the Redding micrometer die. No shavings; thanks onelight and 1hole! I also tested the Hornady die. It is large enough that it does not squeeze the case mouth closed during seating, and their add-on micrometer adjustment plug is under $30 delivered via Prime.
Is chamfering something that I will have to repeatedly do, or is it one and done for straight wall pistol cases?

[onelight]

Once is enough unless you trim the case.
Glad you found some options.

[Taterhead]

Case mouth chamfering was invented to solve your bullet wall shaving problem. ;)

Handguns aren't B.R. rifles and there's not much reward in trying to load for them as if they are. I've never found micrometer level seating depths to make any measurable "on target" difference in revolver accuracy - seems the jump from case mouth to the lands is much too great for tiny things like that to matter. (But our loading tool makers are quite happy to produce any gimmicks some of us will buy.)

You're right that the micrometer does nothing for groups. They are handy for noting seating depths and quicky resetting the die for a different bullet without the trial-and-error of standard seaters. Then returning to a prior configuration in a repeatable way.

[1hole]

You're right that the micrometer does nothing for groups. They are handy for noting seating depths and quicky resetting the die for a different bullet without the trial-and-error of standard seaters. Then returning to a prior configuration in a repeatable way.

I keep a dummy round for every bullet I use in my handgun die boxes. They make excellent "transfer gages" to reset my seater against and the repeatability is quite sufficent for me.

[oldhenry]

Chuck Perry,
I had the same problem with my Redding "Pro Series" .38 spec./.357 mag. die set. That set did not have the micrometer seating die. I sent it back to Redding two times (at my expense) & it seems like they did not understand the problem. The 2nd.time it was returned the invoice stated "adjusted to customers specifications". I finally solved the problem by replacing it with a Lyman. Redding makes some great products, but have a problem admitting mistakes (the problem describe & another for me).

I'd like to sell that "Pro Series" set & buy a Dillon set, but would feel bad passing the Redding set off on someone.

[Taterhead]

I keep a dummy round for every bullet I use in my handgun die boxes. They make excellent "transfer gages" to reset my seater against and the repeatability is quite sufficent for me.

Like minds! I do that too since most of my seaters are not the micro type.

[1hole]

Like minds! I do that too since most of my seaters are not the micro type.

Revolver loads often have have a quarter inch (or more) travel before contacting the lands. Anyone thinking a few thou one way or the other of seating depth in a revolver is going to measurably change accuracy will have a difficult time proving their belief.

I like gimmicky tools, especially when it comes to accuracy reloading. If someone just walks up and gives me a "micrometer seater" for my .38 S., .357 or .44 Mag I'll take it, smile broadly and say "Thank you!". I'd probably play with it awhile - and I wouldn't throw it away - but I'm sure not going to pay for one!

[onelight]

Chuck Perry,
I had the same problem with my Redding "Pro Series" .38 spec./.357 mag. die set. That set did not have the micrometer seating die. I sent it back to Redding two times (at my expense) & it seems like they did not understand the problem. The 2nd.time it was returned the invoice stated "adjusted to customers specifications". I finally solved the problem by replacing it with a Lyman. Redding makes some great products, but have a problem admitting mistakes (the problem describe & another for me).

I'd like to sell that "Pro Series" set & buy a Dillon set, but would feel bad passing the Redding set off on someone.
I wouldn't feel bad about selling it . It's probably not defective it just not dimensioned for seating oversized cast bullets.

[PJEagle]

I experienced the same thing with .358 cast boolits. After doing a lot of on-line research I learned what has already been explained. Redding builds a very high quality micrometer seating die that only works for jacketed bullets that are .357. Tried chamfering all my Starline .357 brass and it still shaved lead. I sold mine for half of what I paid for it and went back to my old Lee seating die. It works great.

[1hole]

Redding builds a very high quality micrometer seating die that only works for jacketed bullets that are .357. ..... I sold mine for half of what I paid for it and went back to my old Lee seating die. It works great.

Proving that the "best" of anything isn't always better for every user or in every situation!

[onelight]

Proving that the "best" of anything isn't always better for every user or in every situation!
You got that right !
The best, is the tool that does the job for our application , it's great to have so many choices.

[gwpercle]

I would simply use .357 boolits .
The Redding die isn't made to seat cast lead .358 .
Give .357 diameter boolits a try , they might work just fine .
Gary

[oldhenry]

I would simply use .357 boolits .
The Redding die isn't made to seat cast lead .358 .
Give .357 diameter boolits a try , they might work just fine .
Gary

The problem isn't .358 dia. or .357 dia. . The problem with my Redding seating die boiled down to the fact that it completely removed the bell from the case mouth before the bullet reached the proper seating depth. It'd probably be OK in a pinch if you were loading jacketed bullets & chamfered the case mouth.

[greenjoytj]

Just because you’ve installed the Redding micrometer bullet seating plug into your stock bullet seating die body, you must remember to keep the die body turned up off the shell holder at least one turn to prevent the seating die from applying a crimp while your trying to bullet seat.

I turn my Redding micrometer bullet seating plug up about one and a half turns so the scale faces me as I use it.

I bought mine to replace the crude course thread adjustment provided on the standard seating plug.
It does make die set up much easier as you can preset the micrometer to a predetermined known value to be on or very close to make allowances for different batches of brass not being all the same length. (One day l’ll get around to making them all the same lengths)

[oldhenry]

Just because you’ve installed the Redding micrometer bullet seating plug into your stock bullet seating die body, you must remember to keep the die body turned up off the shell holder at least one turn to prevent the seating die from applying a crimp while your trying to bullet seat.

I turn my Redding micrometer bullet seating plug up about one and a half turns so the scale faces me as I use it.

I bought mine to replace the crude course thread adjustment provided on the standard seating plug.
It does make die set up much easier as you can preset the micrometer to a predetermined known value to be on or very close to make allowances for different batches of brass not being all the same length. (One day l’ll get around to making them all the same lengths)

In my case: Redding "Pro Series"
1. No micrometer seating
2. A 4 die set
3. Separate seating die
4. Separate crimp die

[jsizemore]

If you like shooting "out yonder" then that die is an advantage with a little custom machine work. Open the die body up to your expanded case mouth dimension and you'll seat straighter. That means you need to trim every time you load. The payoff is the thrill of ringing the ram "out yonder".

[Chuck Perry]

If you like shooting "out yonder" then that die is an advantage with a little custom machine work. Open the die body up to your expanded case mouth dimension and you'll seat straighter. That means you need to trim every time you load. The payoff is the thrill of ringing the ram "out yonder".The obvious remedy is to have the die modified. Redding won't do it, and I can't find anyone locally that is capable of doing so, or willing to take a small one of job. I'm open for recommendations if someone knows a shop that will do this.

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[jsizemore]

There are a few folks on this site that do custom machine work.

[oldhenry]

The obvious remedy is to have the die modified. Redding won't do it, and I can't find anyone locally that is capable of doing so, or willing to take a small one of job. I'm open for recommendations if someone knows a shop that will do this.

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I'm sorry to hear about your problem with Redding's CS & maybe I should not stick my nose into this further:but, I can't help but be inquisitive about their explanation. When I had this problem in '95 they grudgingly made the modification & it seemed like they did not understand the problem & I was some kind of nut & they were doing it against their better judgement.

In the past Dillon sold separate dies: however, their current Blue Press lists only sets. I'd give them a call anyway. A separate die would probably cost less that a custom modification (plus it'll be a better die for cast boolits). For plan B. I'd PM lathesmith.

Good luck.

[PbHurler]

Be sure to chamfer the outside of the case mouths (as well as the inside), that's what fixed this issue for me with this die.....

[Wolverine19D]

Good info in here, I've recently been looking at the Redding Comp seating dies for 9mm and possibly other handgun rounds not for the micrometer adjustment but for the spring loaded insert that I have came to enjoy on my Forster dies. It's a real shame Forster doesn't make handgun dies because I really like their standard Benchrest dies without the micro-meter adjustments for a good cheap die set that will give the best consistency for a good price point.

While I can see the appeal of micrometer dies I don't think they'd really be that much of an improvement for me. It doesn't take but a few seconds to adjust a regular forster die to the proper seating depth. Having a round on hand already the proper COL is a great way to go as others mentioned but even without that it isn't that hard to turn the knob until you get close and then make very fine adjustments until you're dead on. It shouldn't take more then a minute at most to tune in any new round to the desired length.

I have an older Hornady 9mm seater at the moment and it just doesn't seem to work as well as the Forster design and unless I put in the extra work and time to perfectly align each round you can notice they may not seat straight so I've considered putting a spring in it to see if it would fix the problem but will likely just buy the really expensive Redding seater since it's the only one I know of that has the sleeve with spring design for handgun rounds.

[jsizemore]

I think the spring would aggravate the situation.

[Wolverine19D]

I think the spring would aggravate the situation.

I've thought the same thing but the spring works great in the Forster and Redding dies. Unless you was talking to someone else. I have read a couple people adding springs to their Hornady dies with mixed results some good and some bad.