Extractor build for stub barrel

[firebyprolong]

I thought I'd share the way I convert the old h&r shotgun ejectors/ extractors to smaller cases. With the supply of factory ones drying up this is proving to be much cheaper that digging around for the right one.

I normally anneal the original hook on the shotgun ejector first, some of these are harder than woodpecker lips. Then I cut it down so it will pass under the stubs new breach face. With it sitting flush and just a bit tight, I cut the slot for the the new claw at the same time I cut the extractor slot in the breach face. I normally use a T slot cutter so I don't have to reposition my mill head. But a guy could file this in after he roughed it out with a rotory tool.
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Then I build a new claw out of annealed tool steel, fit it to the notch in the extractor and silver solder it in place. I like to leave plenty of height so it's easier to square and keep in place while I solder it in place.

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Then I fit it to the breach face and cut the rim cut at the same time I chamber the barrel, usually. Here I've got it roughly fit but I haven't quite finished it. I already had this barrel chambered before I stubbed it.
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I've used this type of conversion on 4 of these so far and had very good luck with it, they've proven just as robust as any factory one I've used.
My phone decided to die last night so I'll have to post the rest of the pictures when I get a chance. I hope this helps. There is also a way to convert these to rimless cases if anyone is interested, please just ask.

[Texas by God]

Bookmarked and saved! Handy knowledge to have, thank you.

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[Kscardsfan]

That’s awesome.

[tbx-4]

What about converting to rimless cartridges?

I'd like to replace a .410 barrel with a .45acp barrel but I'm stumped making an extractor.

[firebyprolong]

Ok so the way I've done rimless i do all of the above then remove about .02 off of the hump on the bottom of the ejector stem so when it sits flat in the lug the case can slip past it. You've got to anneal the stem a bit farther back before you start, just make sure to pack the hooks on the back as they are the catch that "loads" the ejector. While I've got the whole thing apart I drill a 1/8 inch hole in the rear spring seat in the lug and built a round head plunger to ride the spring and apply the upward tension on the ejector. Just make sure the stem is short enough to not bottom out in the lug and prevent the ejector from releasing. So when the whole shebang is finished and put together a round should slid past the hook then catch hard once it hits the extractor groove on the case. It will take some tuning to get it exactly right and get cases to chunk across the room. Minimum of extra parts and I'm sure there is a better way to do it but this is simple and has worked well for me.