How best to deal with carbon ring when shooting specials in a magnum cylinder?

[Bazoo]

My wife and I each have a 357 magnum chambered revolver and I also have a 44 magnum chambered super blackhawk. I shoot a lot of 38 specials in the 357 chambered guns and I'm looking for suggestions as to the best way to mitigate the carbon ring that builds up in the cylinder.

I have taken Outposts suggestion and purchased the brownells stainless chamber brush and it seems to help a lot, but still takes a fair amount of elbow grease. I've tried chore boy but it didn't do as well as the SS chamber brush. I am spinning the brush in the chamber with a solid handled cleaning rod. Should I be pushing it through? It seems too tight to push through.

I've been using hoppes 9. But I'm open to other suggestions. Would eds red or Kroil make an appreciable difference?

Is there other techniques or tips that will reduce the ring or effect required to remove it?

Thanks

Bazoo

[LUCKYDAWG13]

why not just use 357 and 44 magnum brass and use light loads

[44MAG#1]

Carbon is susceptible to hot water. I worked in a factory that had plastic injection machines. We sometimes used a polyvynil compound at times it would sometimes give carbon buildup in the barrel. One of the engineers from the company thst made the stuff recommended squirting water in the barrel along with purge compound to remove it. It worked but with a gun it would have to be dried thoroughly and oiled. If it is carbon and other stuff too it would take something else. I just scrub the chambers well with a powder solvent. And I am satisfied

[stinjie]

In my stainless Security Six,i've had good results soaking with Deep Creep for 10-15 min,then use a .40 cal brush.

[Winger Ed.]

If I clean shortly after coming back from the range, a bore brush knocks it right out.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Try a Lewis Lead Remover. It's a pistol sized cleaning rod with an expanding rubber tip. You remove the tip (a screw in the center) and apply a small square of mesh (I think it's bronze mesh) onto the top of the tip, then screw the screw back in tightly which expands the rubber tip. Soak the bore with a patch of Hoppe's, then run the mesh patch back and forth a few times and you'll have a clean cylinder. You'll see streaks and bits of lead in the mesh. These have been around forever, and most PPC guys used to utilize them to clean their cylinders to like new after hundreds of rounds.

DG

[c0wb0y84]

The 800 grit flex hone is advertised to be for cleaning carbon out of cylinders. I don't have any personal experience with this...yet. I plan to though.

[Outpost75]

Swab chambers with Kroil at the range, leaving them wet until you get home.

Then use the SS chamber brush and Kroil again and most of the crud ring should come out easily.

[Valley-Shooter]

There is a tool made just for this problem.

SliXprings-Scaper


https://www.badmanbullets.com/OnlineStore/proddetail.php?prod=SliXprings-Scraper

I haven't used it, but looks like a good idea.


Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Wayne Dobbs]

I recall that Clymer used to have a de-leading reamer for .357 Magnum revolver chambers. Discussed it with them at SHOT back in the 90s. Don't know if they still do one or not.

[Rapidrob]

2ND Lewis Lead Remover. Been using mine for 45 years now, it works.

[Petrol & Powder]

I have shot a lot of 38 Specials in 357 mag chambers and I have never had a problem.

I clean my guns after I shoot them. Problem solved.

As for a Lewis lead remover - it is a great tool. I would caution using it on a cylinder still mounted to the crane. You must support the cylinder in your hand so that the force isn't transmitted through the crane and potentially damaging it. When I use a Lewis lead remover on a barrel (which is rarely needed unless working up a new load) I always hold the gun by the barrel. I typically don't use a Lewis lead remover on a cylinder unless it is dismounted from the crane.

When I read about people scrapping, scrubbing and soaking chambers in cylinders; I have to wonder when was that gun last cleaned?
A little bit of Kroil, an appropriate brush on a non-rotating cleaning rod and a few twisting passes through each chamber followed by a patch and you're back in business.

[Dale53]

I shoot a lot of .38 Specials in my .357's. I carry a plastic chamber brush in my shooting box. While the gun is still warm from shooting, I run the chamber brush in each chamber a time or two - problem solved. Then a simple cleaning with a good solvent when I get home it's "good to go"!

Dale53

[tazman]

I have been dealing with that issue for decades. My solution had two parts.
1- Clean your gun as soon as you get home and don't give it time to harden. Hoppes 9 will do to soften it. Soak liberally, allow a little time to soften, and then brush out.

2- I use White Label NRA 50-50 lube in my lubrisizer or White LAbel X-lox for tumble lube. Some other brands leave a residue that gets really hard when you shoot a long session. This doesn't.
When I changed to this lube in my revolvers, the crud ring issue went away immediately.

A suggestion for a tool for removing an existing crud ring- Take a piece of 357 brass and flare the mouth slightly so that it is a push in fit for the chambers. You can roughen the edges of the case mouth if you wish. Run rhe case into the chambers with a twisting motion and it will scrape the ring out after you have softened it some.
This is for the really difficult to remove rings. Since the case is brass, it won't hurt the chambers as it is too soft, but it will remove the ring when you get it softened.
This was suggested by a member here and it works.

Leaving the ring in place for a few days allows it to harden and become a real problem.

Do a search on this site for" crud ring 357 cylinder". You will get lots of threads on this topic.

[lotech]

Many .38 and .44 brass brushes are undersize for some cylinders and don't do an effective job in removing the carbon ring. I have a Lewis Lead Remover and it will work, but not as well as an oversized brass brush. For .357 magnum cylinders, I use a .375 rifle brush and Hoppe's #9 or Ed's Red. For .44 Magnum cylinders, a .45 pistol or rifle brush and solvent is usually fine. These methods require only routine cleaning work, nothing else.

[USSR]

I just scrub the chambers well with a powder solvent. And I am satisfied

Ditto.

Don

[gnostic]

I carefully, use a worn out brass brush from a 44 special in a drill motor, once in a while. That leaves the cylinder looking new....

[contender1]

"The 800 grit flex hone is advertised to be for cleaning carbon out of cylinders."

I would NOT recommend this method. Honing can & will eventually cause problems in itself. You will be removing metal. Removing metal in the throats is NOT a good idea.

As noted,, one of the best things is to clean while still warm & not set up or hardened. Often,, a simple quick cleaning at the range,, followed by a deeper cleaning at home is quite easy. While still fresh & warm, run a wet patch of Hoppe's a few times in each chamber,, followed by a brush, followed by Hoppe's again. Let the last run of Hoppe's stay in the gun until you get home. Clean the same day.

[Groo]

Groo here
Using a bore snake every couple of cylinders works well,
one or two pulls in each chamber.
That way it does not have a chance to build up..///

[Bazoo]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I bought my GP100 from a friend that shot almost exclusively specials. So when I cleaned it there was this tough fouling that needed scraping to remove. I got it out except it looks like it has stained the inside of the chambers where the ring was. It chambers and extracts fired magnums now. Is this just a burn ring like what happens in the front of the cylinder?

Cleaning after a range session isn't really practical for me most of the time. I have a backyard range and often shoot several times a day, but smaller amounts. I don't have a dedicated range time. I often test loads here and there and then plink of the evenings. I could manage a once a day when I'm don't cleaning probably. I don't normally clean any of my guns the day I shoot. I'll have to think on my methods.

I haven't done enough shooting to see if my reloads using BAC lube has had any effect on the buildup. The previous ring was from factory ammo.

I could make special powered ammo in magnum cases, except I have very few magnum cases. I have 200+ magnum cases I'm working with, in two batches. But I get a fair amount of 38s from a friend so I have several 200-300 round batches. Wish he liked 357 and big bore...

I appreciate all the responses and I'll look into some of the suggestions of products and changes in method.

[DukeConnors]

I have stopped using 38's in my smith's but when I did I would use a piece of 357 brass and gently tap it into the cylinder. Seemed to work well at scraping out the crud.

[Carrier]

When I do shoot 38 or 44 specials in magnum revolvers I give them a spray of Ballistol when done shooting. A over sized brass brush in a drill takes any carbon ring out in seconds.

[rintinglen]

For stubborn carbon build up on stainless revolvers (not blue), a little Easy Off oven cleaner works. Wear rubber gloves and use it out doors.

[Burnt Fingers]

There's a tool for that!

http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1713

[Bazoo]

Burnt fingers, have you used that tool?

[USSR]

I just ordered two of those, one in .357 and one in .45 Colt. Will let you know what I think.

Don

[Burnt Fingers]

Burnt fingers, have you used that tool?

I have not. I don't shoot 44 spl and only shoot 38 in my 38's.

[MSD MIke]

I have shot bajillions of 38 special rounds in 357 revolvers and never had a problem if I simply clean the gun using normal methods after shooting. Something has gone wrong if you have to bust out a flex hone.

[Xringshooter]

When I was shooting PPC we always used a Lewis Lead Remover for the really tough stuff followed by a stainless steel Tornado Brush (https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/brushes-amp-bore-snakes/bore-brushes/tornado-brushes-prod9791.aspx)

If using a standard brass cleaning brush I always go oversize (.40 - .44 cal for a .357/.38, .45 cal for a .44/.44 spl). They wear out quicker but the extra diameter goes a good job getting out the bad stuff.

Most of us actually had a cleaning rod that had a head on it that would hold 6 brushes at once, thus cleaning all chambers at the same time. We used them in between stages to help keep our guns clean. I believe you can still get these.

Those Uniquetek tools look interesting.

[Martin Luber]

Another vote for Kroil..

[ShooterAZ]

An overnight soak in Kroil, followed by a vigorous scrub with the next size larger brush usually does the trick for me. For 22 LR’s shot with 22 Shorts I use a nylon brush with JB Bore. For my Single Six cylinder I will chuck the nylon brush in a cordless drill.

As mentioned already, regular cleaning will “generally” make things a lot easier to get rid of the crud ring in the long run. Some powder/lube combos make things worse though. Titegroup leaves pretty bad fouling in my experience.

[Bazoo]

I appreciate the ideas and tips.

What about shooting both specials and magnums together? Does this compound the problem at all? I've noticed that after shooting some specials, if I switch to magnums I can chamber them with resistance and after firing it seems to have removed the fouling enough that chambering of magnums continues to be easy. But I'm concerned that doing this embeds the fouling more.

In the past I've either shot magnums first, or only one or the other. I'm thinking if I shoot a box or two of specials, using an expanded case on the range would suffice when switching back to magnums. I want to avoid breaking out the brushes and solvents in the middle of shooting if I can.

[Chuck Perry]

What about an ultrasonic cleaner, has anyone tried that? Ive been eyeing the one at Harbor Freight with revolver cylinders in mind. Be pretty simple to just remove the cylinder and plop it in the cleaner for awhile.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[Bazoo]

Unless the cylinder was disassembled fully, wouldn't it eventually wear things like the extractor and lock on the yoke on a GP100.

[tazman]

I appreciate the ideas and tips.

What about shooting both specials and magnums together? Does this compound the problem at all? I've noticed that after shooting some specials, if I switch to magnums I can chamber them with resistance and after firing it seems to have removed the fouling enough that chambering of magnums continues to be easy. But I'm concerned that doing this embeds the fouling more.

In the past I've either shot magnums first, or only one or the other. I'm thinking if I shoot a box or two of specials, using an expanded case on the range would suffice when switching back to magnums. I want to avoid breaking out the brushes and solvents in the middle of shooting if I can.

Though I have never tried it, what you describe should work fine.

[Crow_Eater]

I use a nylon brush with JB Bore. .

JB Bore Cleaner has always worked wonders for me. Leaves the bore spotless and beautiful.
I have a M-66 I shot a lot of .38s in and I got lazy and the crud did build up. JB and the usual Hoppe's did the trick.

[nicholst55]

Slip 2000 Carbon Killer is one of THE BEST carbon solvents available. If needed, it comes very highly recommended.

http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php

[charlie b]

I gave into the temptation to use .38 cases a few times just because I had a lot of them sitting around. They got a lot of range time cause at our shooting sessions the wives liked shooting the .38 loads. Then I ran into the issue of not being able to fire .357 after they were done shooting. I have never had a problem cleaning out the crud ring with Ed's Red.

My solution was to give away all the .38 brass and buy some more .357 brass. I wait until .357 ammo goes on sale and I buy the ammo, shoot it and save the brass. I sort out the nickel plated and plain cases and use the nickel plated for full magnum loads, brass cases for reduced loads.

What I want to know is why is there a down side to shooting? I love shooting revolvers cause I don't have to police up my brass. But it is like cleaning six pistols with all the chambers. I shoot semi-autos and they are easy cleaning but I have to crawl around to pick up all the brass at the range. I shoot rifles and there isn't much problem with brass or cleaning, but, it is a LOT further walking out to the targets. Yep, I have quite a few first world problems, don't I. LOL

PS I actually love all of it :)

[Bazoo]

Thanks for all the responses. I have only one batch of 357 brass that is over 100 pieces that are all the same, winchester nickel plated.

So I sorted all the brass my buddy left me over the last 5 years. Only two boxes of it were the same I guess, PPU brand. So I tumbled it and sized it. I went to trim it and danged if you wouldn't know it, it's all .005 or so short of the trim suggestion. So I either can trade it off or hope a few magnum loadings will grow it.

On the upside, I did get a fresh batch of 250-300 38 special R-P headstamps started.

[Petrol & Powder]

I have shot bajillions of 38 special rounds in 357 revolvers and never had a problem if I simply clean the gun using normal methods after shooting. Something has gone wrong if you have to bust out a flex hone.

:goodpost:

[USSR]

So I sorted all the brass my buddy left me over the last 5 years. Only two boxes of it were the same I guess, PPU brand. So I tumbled it and sized it. I went to trim it and danged if you wouldn't know it, it's all .005 or so short of the trim suggestion. So I either can trade it off or hope a few magnum loadings will grow it.

Don't bet on it growing. Unlike bottleneck rifle brass, handgun brass tends to get shorter. Don't sweat the .005".

Don

[TDB9901]

Kroil or Ed's Red on a brass .410 shotgun bore brush. In more severe cases chucked in a power screwdriver or ran at reasonable speed in a variable speed drill.

[c0wb0y84]

I have shot bajillions of 38 special rounds in 357 revolvers and never had a problem if I simply clean the gun using normal methods after shooting. Something has gone wrong if you have to bust out a flex hone.

I imagine if the gun was cleaned using normal methods after being shot with short cases it would've been fine. But from the looks of it the person that owned the gun prior to me never did any more cleaning than a patch down the barrel and the carbon in the cylinders from shooting who knows how many .38 spl is hard as glass and nothing that I have done has touched it yet. So I guess something must've gone wrong.

[Bazoo]

I imagine if the gun was cleaned using normal methods after being shot with short cases it would've been fine. But from the looks of it the person that owned the gun prior to me never did any more cleaning than a patch down the barrel and the carbon in the cylinders from shooting who knows how many .38 spl is hard as glass and nothing that I have done has touched it yet. So I guess something must've gone wrong.

Sounds like how the previous owner of my GP100 cleans.

[murf205]

Bazoo, I don't mean to try to spend your money for you but Starline has 500 rnds of 357 brass for $87 and it was the best $ I spent in a LOOOOng time. Even though I had several rounds of 357 brass, it was slightly different lengths and some had a lot different neck tension. My purchase from Starline solved all this and when you rotate the loadings they will last a really long time, especially at the 38 spl levels that you are talking about. And...you can clean yours and mama's revolvers normally. But....you know what you want better than I do, just my experience.

[Terminatorret]

From a SASS forum:
"...I just took a 357 case with an inside bevel and belled it till it just barely fit the chamber. Squirted a shot of Break Free in, shoved in the 357 case. The case scraped out the "ring around the collar" and didn't score the chamber."

Sounds reasonable to me.

[Boogieman]

No need to remove the cylinder if the gun will fit in the cleaner. Just remove the grips, when it's clean , dry it and oil it good It will be dry of oil. I just bought a HF ultrasonic, it's the best ay I've ever used to clean brass

[Bazoo]

Okay boogieman, how do you dry the lockwork without disassembly? Seems like lots of small spaces for moisture to hide.

[Bazoo]

So far what I've tried and have succeeded with is the chamber brush chucked in a drill. I'd rather find a simple method like the tool or a belled case because I can't pack a drill with me everywhere I take my cleaning kit. Next I'm going to try the belled case and then maybe the scraper. The scraper sure seems nifty.

[salvadore]

Is this really a thing? I own a model 60-10 for since they first hit the market and a model 28 for I guess about 15 years and fire .38 cartridges exclusively in them. Recently took 30 years worth of hodge podge cartridges out in the desert for can control, about 300 rds., then I read this post. So I retrieve a .357 load that I use in a rifle and tried to chamber it in the 28. No problem, I have never gone to any extreme measures to remove an imaginary carbon ring and had not cleaned the revolver prior to chambering the .357. What gives?

[44MAG#1]

Is this really a thing? I own a model 60-10 for since they first hit the market and a model 28 for I guess about 15 years and fire .38 cartridges exclusively in them. Recently took 30 years worth of hodge podge cartridges out in the desert for can control, about 300 rds., then I read this post. So I retrieve a .357 load that I use in a rifle and tried to chamber it in the 28. No problem, I have never gone to any extreme measures to remove an imaginary carbon ring and had not cleaned the revolver prior to chambering the .357. What gives?

It gives people something to discuss and think about. That is really about it. Never had any trouble myself. But I don't let cylinder fouling get that bad regardless of the loads I shoot. Am ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure, or something like that.
Oh well.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I bought my GP100 from a friend that shot almost exclusively specials. So when I cleaned it there was this tough fouling that needed scraping to remove. I got it out except it looks like it has stained the inside of the chambers where the ring was. It chambers and extracts fired magnums now. Is this just a burn ring like what happens in the front of the cylinder?

Cleaning after a range session isn't really practical for me most of the time. I have a backyard range and often shoot several times a day, but smaller amounts. I don't have a dedicated range time. I often test loads here and there and then plink of the evenings. I could manage a once a day when I'm don't cleaning probably. I don't normally clean any of my guns the day I shoot. I'll have to think on my methods.

I haven't done enough shooting to see if my reloads using BAC lube has had any effect on the buildup. The previous ring was from factory ammo.

I could make special powered ammo in magnum cases, except I have very few magnum cases. I have 200+ magnum cases I'm working with, in two batches. But I get a fair amount of 38s from a friend so I have several 200-300 round batches. Wish he liked 357 and big bore...

I appreciate all the responses and I'll look into some of the suggestions of products and changes in method.


Swab chambers with Kroil at the range, leaving them wet until you get home.

Then use the SS chamber brush and Kroil again and most of the crud ring should come out easily.

Like Outpost said, Soaking in Kroil, or I use Ed's Red (even if it isn't right after shooting,even weeks/months later).
You are just softening the carbon.
After a good soak (minutes or hours), then use a chamber brush, then I use a brass jag with a denim (or coarse fabric) patch. Repeat if necessary.

Bazoo, I think all my revolvers, that can shoot specials have a stained ring, inside of the chambers where a carbon fouling ring once was...Stained just like all my revolver's cylinder faces. While I have friends that will "super" clean (buff wheel polish) those stains, I do not, because I would worry about metal loss.

[Bazoo]

Interesting replies. Thanks everyone.

There has been several occasions that after firing a few cylinders of specials i switch to magnums and they chamber and eject fine. But there has also been several instances when the gun hasn't been cleaned from the previous shooting session and I go to shoot it again and magnums will not chamber.

I don't normally clean my guns after every time I shoot them. But it seems like at the least, a cursory chamber cleaning is in order to compliment the usual wipe down.

When I got the GP100, it had a carbon ring. I cleaned it and 357s would chamber fine but with a flashlight you could see this carbon. I picked at it with a brass rod and chunks scraped off.

[Boogieman]

Okay boogieman, how do you dry the lockwork without disassembly? Seems like lots of small spaces for moisture to hide.

I use an air compressor and an old food dryer. could use a heat lamp

[gunther]

After blowing primers with 357 loads in a M28 that had a steady diet of 38 specials, I'm inclined to see a box of Starline 357 brass as a good investment. The gun has been cleaned many times and the shadow of a ring is still there to remind me "It's a 357".

[Bazoo]

I appreciate the replies. I hadn't thought of pressure issues. I bet a carbon ring would stretch magnum brass with magnum loads.

I've not had any problems with magnum loads blowing primers (before or) after having cleaned the gun thoroughly and then maintaining it. I've loaded some Lee 358-140-SWC over a pretty stiff charge of 296, and other than some trace leading all was fine.

I don't really have an issue with using magnum brass other than availability. One thing I like is the history of the 38 special and in a way I feel like I'd be taking away something if I turned my back on the 38 casing. I guess I'm a bit OCD in that I like special loads in special brass, not to mention it's more efficient for lighter loads to be in smaller cases. I'm actually thinking about getting some short and long colt brass to mess with for lighter loads.

[Three44s]

With my stainless guns I use JB Bore paste with specifically designed chamber mops and brass brushes. Any good solvent will do in the beginning.

After I begin to get a handle on the fouling I switch upto Corrosion X.

My experience is that the CorrosionX tends to get into the pores and reduces greatly how fouling sticks after cleaning. It is pretty striking.

The Bore paste polishes a little and wears out stubborn fouling.

I would shy away from power tools and stainless brushes after my experience I just illustrated above.

Three44s

[Smallbore]

I have been using Bore Tech C4 carbon remover and am really impressed.
I got it on the recommendation of another service rifle shooter to clean AR bolts.
Man does it work! My GP100 chambers are much easier to get the carbon rings out with this stuff and a bronze brush.
HTH,
Smallbore

[glaciers]

I got to say I'm with JonB on the Ed's Red. Just today I cleaned out a carbon ring on a 327 SP101. Could almost not get fired cases out, it was a fight. 10 minutes Ed's Red, brass brush, patches and done. Spotless, no fight.

[pocketace]

chore boy strand wrapped on a brash brush..

helps to let it soak with cleaner sprayed down it. still takes time.

i can get a bad lead residue ring when using speer bullets in a 357 case.

[Bazoo]

Thanks for the suggestions pocketace. I tried the chore boy trick but couldn't get it tight enough in the chamber. When using it in the barrel I start it at the forcing cone, threading the brush onto the rod with the rod down the bore and the brush in the frame opening. This gives me a cone of chore boy to scrub the forcing cone and then super tight in the bore.

[pocketace]

ive found that the chore boy compresses down after a few passes through the barrel no matter what end i start with. At the moment, i started my bore brush with the technically listed "8" inches" long strand wrapped on a 38 special PISTOL BRUSH... those are short. as it has compressed down, i estimate i have about 5 of those 8" strands wrapped on it, and it is LOOSE in the barrel until i wrap a patch on it.

the lewis system seems a good idea in effort and time savings. but i have chore boy and im CHEAP.

[Burnt Fingers]

ive found that the chore boy compresses down after a few passes through the barrel no matter what end i start with. At the moment, i started my bore brush with the technically listed "8" inches" long strand wrapped on a 38 special PISTOL BRUSH... those are short. as it has compressed down, i estimate i have about 5 of those 8" strands wrapped on it, and it is LOOSE in the barrel until i wrap a patch on it.

the lewis system seems a good idea in effort and time savings. but i have chore boy and im CHEAP.

Brass pipe screens.

Just use a jag, or if a tighter fit is needed/desired place a patch over the jag then place the pipe screen on the jag.

200 screens for $7 https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Brass-Screens-Screen-Filters/dp/B07FXM73LQ/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n2_0?cv_ct_cx=brass+pipe+screens&dchild=1&keywords=brass+pipe+screens&pd_rd_i=B07FXM73LQ&pd_rd_r=c066731c-a1bd-4d61-9c0d-fd9df42c4664&pd_rd_w=Yu5Fq&pd_rd_wg=FtlV3&pf_rd_p=13bf9bc7-d68d-44c3-9d2e-647020f56802&pf_rd_r=XDDXKAF1K1466HAMP6D4&psc=1&qid=1597069860&sr=1-2-791c2399-d602-4248-afbb-8a79de2d236f

[Patrick L]

I use those Brownell's stainless chamber brushes too. True, when new they require a bit of elbow grease, but they break in and it gets easier. Use a substantial rod too, with a decent handle you can get a hold on. Like many others, I too feel that the fouling is "softer" when it is fresh, so I generally brush it out right at the range, when I'm packing the gun up.

I will occasionally use an older brush (one that is well worn in) with a cordless drill and a bit of Kroil to get things spotless. But by occasionally I mean maybe two or three times a year.

[Wally]

Best to use 1" diameter brass pipe screen, especially in bigger than .38 Calibers...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-American-Pipes-BRASS-Metal-Smoking-pipe-screens-1-quality-since-1997/362975755599?hash=item54830a7d4f:g:w3cAAOSwDdxenh~ h



Brass pipe screens.

Just use a jag, or if a tighter fit is needed/desired place a patch over the jag then place the pipe screen on the jag.

200 screens for $7 https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Brass-Screens-Screen-Filters/dp/B07FXM73LQ/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n2_0?cv_ct_cx=brass+pipe+screens&dchild=1&keywords=brass+pipe+screens&pd_rd_i=B07FXM73LQ&pd_rd_r=c066731c-a1bd-4d61-9c0d-fd9df42c4664&pd_rd_w=Yu5Fq&pd_rd_wg=FtlV3&pf_rd_p=13bf9bc7-d68d-44c3-9d2e-647020f56802&pf_rd_r=XDDXKAF1K1466HAMP6D4&psc=1&qid=1597069860&sr=1-2-791c2399-d602-4248-afbb-8a79de2d236f

[Bazoo]

Preciate the brass pipe screen idea. I have taken to using a drill with the stainless brush a few times but being leery about wear from it I switched to a bronze 40 caliber brush, and since I've been keeping it under control, it's been quite effective.

I always use a rod with a fixed handle, so I can spin the rod. I take a cleaning rod section or a hoppes pistol rod and remove the handle, then I bend a hook on the end for a handle.

One thing I'm looking for is a field expedient method that doesn't involve a drill or something complicated. The stainless or bronze brush doesn't fit this because it takes so many spins to remove the ring. It takes 2 minutes with a drill and an hour by hand.

[JohnRoc65]

Hoppes Elite is expensive but it does the job for me.

[44MAG#1]

You probably don't want to hear from me but the best remedy is not use short brass. I rarely use 44 Special brass preferring to seat deep in 44 Magnum cases. I use the Lyman 429421 "KEITH" and loosely use the term "KEITH" seated to 1.565" with the Skeeter Skelton 44 Special load or an equivalent load. Can do the same deep seating in a 357 Mag case too. Load the same OAL for the 38 Special and use 38 Special loads.
Sometimes the best thing to do isn't always the best to do just to save money. I've found that out the hard way.

[Three44s]

That’s me with the 44mag.

I use Mag cases loaded at different power levels and own no 44spl brass.

In 357 however, I have way more 38 spl. Brass so 38’s get fired in my 357s.

Hence my earlier post about JB Bore paste to polish the internals and Corrosion X to close up the pores of the steel enough to greatly reduce the recruitment of more fouling.

Three44s

[Slugster]

I bought a Lewis Lead Remover in 1983 and it is one of the best ways to remove leading that I have found. Use it, then normal cleaning and oiling, and you are good to go.

[Murphy]

I'm with Groo on his solution. I've never tried a bore snake before though. I started long ago with the Lewis Lead Remover, it worked great. Later down the road, I decided instead of worrying with it, I'd just start brushing out the cylinders every 4-5 times I'd fired rounds through them. Brownell's use to sell a product called Double Tuff brushes. I think they had about twice the amount of bristles a standard brush has. I know it may seem impractical to some to brush out the cylinders that often, but it does job for me.

Murphy

[DougGuy]

The 800 grit flex hone is advertised to be for cleaning carbon out of cylinders. I don't have any personal experience with this...yet. I plan to though.

The flex hone will make it glossy but you will be disappointed thinking it will remove it all. I use a small cup brush in a dremel tool and it is a PITA no matter how you do it.

Another thing you can use is a worn finishing reamer it will get the carbon but not ruin the cylinder if it's too dull to take a bite.