chickenpot
05-29-2020, 08:07 PM
Been lurking this forum for a while, mostly because any question I ever had was already answered! I started casting around 5 years ago when I had finished my first flintlock build in .40 cal and realized purchasing factree .390 and .395 round balls was not sustainable. This led to a crude casting setup and I was satisfied for the time. Then after playing with that for a while I realized that loading for the muzzleloader was near the same as loading up a cartridge. Then I found this place and realized how common it was to cast and reload in general and of course my caliber of choice is 357 mag in revolver and rifle for general shooting... so no brainer it was something i had to get into. I first melted some lead around age 8, taking some old lead pipe and making some crude ingots- naturally fascinating, and realizing almost 20 years later that I can make my very own boolits for cartridge guns. Who knew i'd be digging the back stops out for the sweet 70's alloy hehe
My setup is still quite elementary compared to a few years ago and most other dedicated casters but for what I want to do it just works fine.
Just wanted to post and say hello. The ol trusty Lyman 450 has been putting in quite the work recently because i picked up a few new lee molds to play around with. Getting gas check molds i needed some gas checks, I had never used them before.. $30-40 for 1000? what is that? Only bought one bag of hornady checks before I looked up how to make my own checks, foung the plans from Dima Prok i believe and commissioned some time in the machine shop at school. That was only a few weeks ago, still experimenting with different material for checks and fine tuning things. No noticeable accuracy difference between hornady checks and my home made ones on the 200 gr lee 358 in the Henry single shot .357 1-16 twist and Rossi 92 1-30". 1750 fps avg from the Henry. They're pretty much top end loads and the boolit is so long it doesn't fit in the revolvers so that's probably good. I'll stick to the 158's for the revolvers. Recovered checks show the same patterns
Copper check is a Hornady and alumunim are the roll your own
Have a good one!
https://i.imgur.com/6XTiH0k.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dyb8lUa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BJy7xX0.jpg
My setup is still quite elementary compared to a few years ago and most other dedicated casters but for what I want to do it just works fine.
Just wanted to post and say hello. The ol trusty Lyman 450 has been putting in quite the work recently because i picked up a few new lee molds to play around with. Getting gas check molds i needed some gas checks, I had never used them before.. $30-40 for 1000? what is that? Only bought one bag of hornady checks before I looked up how to make my own checks, foung the plans from Dima Prok i believe and commissioned some time in the machine shop at school. That was only a few weeks ago, still experimenting with different material for checks and fine tuning things. No noticeable accuracy difference between hornady checks and my home made ones on the 200 gr lee 358 in the Henry single shot .357 1-16 twist and Rossi 92 1-30". 1750 fps avg from the Henry. They're pretty much top end loads and the boolit is so long it doesn't fit in the revolvers so that's probably good. I'll stick to the 158's for the revolvers. Recovered checks show the same patterns
Copper check is a Hornady and alumunim are the roll your own
Have a good one!
https://i.imgur.com/6XTiH0k.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dyb8lUa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BJy7xX0.jpg