Anybody try this "de-leading" solvent?

[fatelvis]

I was told to try this solvent on my Garand, that has lead fouling that Chore boy can't get out. Does anybody have experience with it? If so, please share! Thanks-
https://sharpshootr.com/no-lead/

[John Boy]

Never heard of of the product. Would be inserting to hear if it works

[725]

Never heartd of it either, but would like to know how it works. They did mention that you have to wipe to off blueing so I figure it will damage blueing if yo miss a spot.

[Burnt Fingers]

I've used that product. I prefer this one. https://shooters-choice.com/4oz-lead-remover/

Also Boretech Eliminator is a good choice.

All that being said....a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar is my first choice for removing stubborn leading.

If I could get my hands on a quart of mercury that would be my first choice. But the price of mercury is crazy now.

[jsizemore]

You got a msds for that stuff. I did a lite search but didn't find any joy.

[lawdog941]

An old timer told me to run some J words through it to get rid of the lead. The lead is softer than the copper.

[tankgunner59]

I've never used the product but I live about 90 miles from where Graf & Sons is located and deal with them face to face very often. I will say that the people at Graf & Sons know what they are talking about. They have never steered me wrong.

[DHDeal]

Yeah, I've got a bottle of it. It'll turn lead fouling white and you can see exactly where it is. I'll apply it with stong qtips and keep rubbing the fouling and thats about all it takes. I use quite a bit of SharpShooter products and they work about as well as BoreTech.

All of my revolvers are SS so bluing isn't an issue (whether it reacts to bluing or not). My revolvers don't lead much but one in particular liked to put some lead on the forcing cone area on the cylinder frame. It would remove that lead pretty easily.

I don't know whats in it, but it doesn't have a stong smell. I've used the Shoorer Choice lead remover too over the years and I believe the SharpShooter product works faster and you can see where the lead is after the application.

[nawagner]

An old timer told me to run some J words through it to get rid of the lead. The lead is softer than the copper.

Some consider this a no-no and indicate it can actually cause more harm.

[Greg S]

Alot of rimfire BR shooters swear by it. Was go on a pick some up but they (LGS) no longer carry it. I picked up the Shooter's Choice but have only used it 4 times.

It works. Directions say it works better on subsiquent cleanings as it conditions the bore. I find that this is true in my limited use. Have seen no adverse effects on blued or SS guns swaking the Bore and allowing to work for 30 to an hour. First time though on one required three applications and some scrubbing. Been good since the first cleaning, one and done.

[Lloyd Smale]

been doing it for 50 years and if it causes harm Id like to see proof.
Some consider this a no-no and indicate it can actually cause more harm.

[smithnframe]

I've used it.......works for me!

[fastdadio]

The best de-leading formula ever, is the one I learned from you folks..... It's as follows;
100% proper fit, with a sprinkling of powder coat. Baked to perfection.
:-)
:kidding:

[mdi]

FWIW; Regarding a post above about peroxide and vinegar; If you choose to use this concoction be very careful. I have a Dan Wesson 44H that was very accurate that I tried the peroxide/vinegar in it's barrel. Yep it got the lead out (turning the lead into lead acetate?) but it should be used for very short time of contact with the barrel. It does etch the bore if left in too long (more than a few minutes) and it did partially remove some bluing. I swabbed the barrel getting a lot of the mix in the barrel, sat the gun down and got involved in another task. Went in and had dinner and when I returned to the gun, maybe two-four hours later I found the barrel was etched, very slightly pitted. Yep my fault for letting it sit, but in my shooting career this is the only solution that I found for "cleaning" that actually will damage a gun. The "miracle" lead remover is still elbow grease with proper components...

[HoosierShooter]

I believe lead acetate is poisonous and can be absorbed through your skin! Be very careful. This is from the MSDS: POISON! DANGER! MAY BE FATAL IF SWALLOWED, INHALED OR ABSORBED THROUGH SKIN. SUSPECT CANCER HAZARD. MAY CAUSE CANCER. Risk of cancer depends on level and duration of exposure. CAUSES IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACT. NEUROTOXIN. AFFECTS THE GUM TISSUE, CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM, KIDNEYS, BLOOD AND REPRODUCTIVE SYSTEM.

[mr surveyor]

I use Lucas Automatic Transmission fluid. A quart lasts a loong time. I'm satisfied.

jd

[megasupermagnum]

Wow, I've never found had fouling so bad that a soak in thin oil like Kroil, Hoppe's #9, etc. and a chore boy wrapped brush couldn't solve. When I wrap my brush, I get quite a bit on there. Enough to really dig in. If you have got the bulk of the leading removed, I would not hesitate to fire a handful of jacketed rounds.

[Lloyd Smale]

yup the trick to it is to use your brain. If your shooting a gun you know leads up fire a jacketed bullet every 10 or 20 rounds to keep it clean. You don't wait till the rifling is full and its dripping out the end of the barrel. Bottom line is if a gun leads so much that shooting an occasional jacketed bullet doesn't clean it out theres something drastically wrong with it and im either going to fix it or more likely send it down the road.
Wow, I've never found had fouling so bad that a soak in thin oil like Kroil, Hoppe's #9, etc. and a chore boy wrapped brush couldn't solve. When I wrap my brush, I get quite a bit on there. Enough to really dig in. If you have got the bulk of the leading removed, I would not hesitate to fire a handful of jacketed rounds.

[ukrifleman]

If your shooting a gun you know leads up fire a jacketed bullet every 10 or 20 rounds to keep it clean.

Putting a J word through a lead fouled bore can lead to some serious pressure issues.
I would say the OP should look at the bullet diameter which may be undersized and/or the lube.

ukrifleman

[Martin Luber]

Kroil is your friend, quick and easy. I believe that the toxicity is low too. I thought the old Foul out solution of lead acetate was dangerous and stopped using it.

For handguns, you can also firebrush it.

[444ttd]

https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

for only $6, you can't wrong. its great for leading. just don't use it on sintered steel(post 64 win m94 1972 version). its good for surface rust too.

[blackthorn]

Kroil is your friend, quick and easy. I believe that the toxicity is low too. I thought the old Foul out solution of lead acetate was dangerous and stopped using it.

For handguns, you can also firebrush it.

Please explain how the "firebrush" process works. Thanks.

[jsizemore]

Bang!

[Martin Luber]

Firebrushing is simply setting a propane torch on a low to medium flame or use a cigar lighter. With the barrel in your hand, run the flame up the pipe for 5 seconds, then brass brush it.

Pattch and solvent , repeat as needed. Things don't get hot; it's the heat flux through the deposit that breaks it free.

[blackthorn]

Thanks! Firebrush is not a term I recall ever having heard before. Course it may be just CRS.

[Martin Luber]

It is used on pistol forums, can't say for sure that l invented it, but never heard of it in prior use, including National Rifleman magazines dating from about 1949. Let me know how it works for you. Process was confirmed safe by PhD Metalurgists.

All that said, l really like Kroil, whom ever thought of that one, thanks!

[greenjoytj]

All my cast lead shooting firearms shown some lead has been deposited in the barrel.

Its usually removed with simple brushing but some times a little more work is required If I fired a lot of shots (over 100).

I thought bronze brushing with Kroil and JB Bore paste was the gold standard for removing barrel leading.
I brush with Kroil second after my regular bore solvent (M-Pro7) quits working.

If the lead proves more stubborn then kroil with JB Bore Paste and more brushing with bronze wool wrapping the brush.

I have a Louis Lead remover but have never needed to use it.

Ever notice when your patches are coming out clean, you change solvents and the patches come out black again. Doesn’t matter which solvent you start with its the change to a different chemical that reactivates the carbon removal and sometimes a little more lead appears on the patch too.

[1006]

I have found that leaving the barrel soaked in Kroil, Hoppes9 or your favorite non-etching mix for several days is the easiest way.....patience greatly reduces the work required.

I have used a mag full of FMJ’s to clean my pistols for many years. I would think it would work on low pressure rifle cartridges that are typically loaded with cast bullets. I would hesitate to run a full power loaded fmj to clean lead out of something like a 243.

If a bullet leads my gun up so much that is is hard to clean, I switch bullets, or clean more often.

[murf205]

The best de-leading formula ever, is the one I learned from you folks..... It's as follows;
100% proper fit, with a sprinkling of powder coat. Baked to perfection.
:-)
:kidding:

+1 for this recipe. After following this formula, I only use a Shooters Choice nylon brush and a little solvent. Light coat of oil and she is ready for the next session. Remember-fit is king.

[curioushooter]

I've never found leading a chore boy, good bronze brush, and Hoppes9 couldn't handle. May take a while, particularly if 30 cal or smaller, but it works.
My understanding of all chemical lead removers is that they are either corrosive to steel or have a toxicity hazard that precludes use. I would like to know what your experiences are with the product if you try it.

[Skyman]

With all the respect to all of you who will object and crap on me, I am using liquid mercury to clean leading. Yes it is poisonous, dangerous, bla, bla, .... but using it wisely doesn't do any harm to you or to the environment. Stick a rubber plug on one side of the barrel pour some mercury and plug the other side. Shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds and your barrel will be as good as it gets! Return mercury in the bottle and use it again and again and again! You don't touch it, you don't throw it anywhere - what harm does it do? And believe your barrel will be as new, takes all the sheeeeet away! The sheeeeet will be floating on the surface of the mercury, no need to remove it just use it again. Just be careful with mercury it will use any opportunity to run away!

[Burnt Fingers]

With all the respect to all of you who will object and crap on me, I am using liquid mercury to clean leading. Yes it is poisonous, dangerous, bla, bla, .... but using it wisely doesn't do any harm to you or to the environment. Stick a rubber plug on one side of the barrel pour some mercury and plug the other side. Shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds and your barrel will be as good as it gets! Return mercury in the bottle and use it again and again and again! You don't touch it, you don't throw it anywhere - what harm does it do? And believe your barrel will be as new, takes all the sheeeeet away! The sheeeeet will be floating on the surface of the mercury, no need to remove it just use it again. Just be careful with mercury it will use any opportunity to run away!

If I had the mercury I'd use it. The price of the stuff has been nuts for quite some time.

[fatelvis]

Is it possible to skim off the lead from the top of the Mercury to remove it, if I wanted to?

[quasi]

a 10 minute soak of Bullplate sprue plate lube works for me.

[Plate plinker]

Seems it turns lead into lead oxide.

[Plate plinker]

Is it possible to skim off the lead from the top of the Mercury to remove it, if I wanted to?

I thought the lead dissolves into the mercury. Then you must chemically remove the lead from the mercury or distill the mercury from the lead.

[whisler]

Good luck trying to do either of those safely. Why take chances, just use Chore boy and be safe.

[saturn]

never had any leading that couldn't be removed with a few strokes of a well worn bore brush generously wrapped with chore-boy.

[dwtim]

Tried many of these tips. Tried the copper-after-lead trick, but then I had copper over the lead. And the extra pressure really pushed the lead into the microscopic cracks in the bore, making the cleaning a nightmare. The only thing that worked really well for me is a brand new brush with sharp-ended bristles. The chore-boy method works too, but it's a lot of work.

If you're interested.... I realized I'd be a whole lot better place if I didn't have lead in the bore to begin with. So I dedicated my time to finding the right combination of things to stop leading for good:

* Reduced tin content...since tin will "tin" the bore, you know what I mean?
* Used softer alloys (except in rifle) that rebound after sizing
* Made softer lubes with Alox and used more beeswax than petro waxes (a.k.a. inside lube)
* Put the bullets in a bag with a thinned-out (mineral spirits) Alox dab, leaving a super-thin coating outside lube on the bullets (a.k.a. outside lube)
* Dry and load
* Flared case mouths enough so that bullet bases don't get shaved
* Seat and crimp in two stages, so that bullets don't get shaved

The combination of all these things means that I don't have any leading anymore, no matter which gun, caliber or velocity. I've shot 500+ rounds without cleaning, and I just gave up counting after than because it was clear that nothing was accumulating. Not a spec of lead anywhere in the chamber or the bore. I consider the matter to be resolved.

Just saying...you don't have to accept that leading is a given.