Good, cheap gun lubricant

[curioushooter]

3 In One oil with PTFE. (https://www.3inone.com/products/ptfe-lube/)

I've used 3-in-one oil for years, and this is a real level up from the ordinary kind for firearms.

1) It is a thinner, runnier product. It will get to places with the spout that are not ordinarily reachable.
2) It is highly refined. It is nearly clear.
3) Doesn't react with the plastics found in firearms.
4) Temperature range is well within anything you'd expect with firearms.
5) It is extremely hydrophobic. Water will bead up on metal with the thinnest film of this stuff.
6) High film strength and takes extreme pressures due to the teflon.
7) Claims to be long lasting and it seems to last pretty long compared to any other thinnish oil. After a while most of the oil evaporates eventually, a very thin teflon film remains. It probably possesses moderately good long-term corrosion prevention characteristics.
8) Extremely good friction reducer. One of the slipperiest lubricants I've experienced.
9) It's $3 a bottle at Lowes, and the bottle is enough for years and years as so little of it is needed.

Bad:
1) Low odor but it has an odor.
2) Teflon has an annoying characteristic of getting on hands and wood and places you don't want it to. So does silicone.
3) Once it's on something you need to use a solvent to get it off...though it never seems to come off completely unless a some pretty drastic measures are taken.
4) It is not a food grade product and has some presumable amount of toxicity, though the bottle carries no warnings.

[stinjie]

Great,now another lube I'm gonna have to buy and try.Thanks for the good info.

[Winger Ed.]

I like it.
Its all I've ever used on a industrial sewing machine.
I use it on guns too if I'm too lazy to go across the shop and get the bottle of 5-20 weight synthetic motor oil.

[Drm50]

How many firearms do you guys own that cheap oil is a consideration? I buy Hopes and I’ve had the same bottle for years, think it’s 6oz. I’ve had more but usually running 100-150 guns in my old age.

[725]

One quart of 5-20 full synthetic motor oil is the best and only oil you will buy / need for a very long time.

[BigAlofPa.]

I use a 50/50 blend of atf and synthetic motor oil.

[Prcshooter]

+1 on the synthetic motor oil. 5/20 or 0/20

[elmacgyver0]

I use LSA Weapons oil.

[Randy Bohannon]

Motor oil is designed to ‘cling’ and not migrate it’s suppose to be on critical journals in engines on start up. Which makes it a superlative firearm lubricant,the thin gun lubes migrate into the wood if present and soften plastic .I quit using ‘gun oil’ 25 years ago. I also wax my guns, oil the inside wax the outside sure makes cleanup easy.

[roysha]

Back in the 50s one of the favorite stock finish repair "recipes" was 1 part 3in1 Oil and 1 part ether. The 3in1 from that era would gum up and harden eventually even without the ether acting as a dryer. I didn't like 3in1 for anything then and I still don't. I do remember my Grandma using the stuff on her treadle sewing machine.

I have an acquaintance that has some Class 3 stuff and the only lube that even remotely lasts through an afternoon of shooting is 0-20 FULL synthetic.

It is what I use regularly now. I have a few other older bottles of gun oil that sometimes get used on various lube jobs but for guns I really care about, it's 0-20.

[gypsyman]

Plenty of good ones out there, ask 10 shooters, get 10 different replies. If you want something cheap, what was mentioned earlier in the thread, ATF. I'd go with the full synthetic. Has to stay thin enough to flow at extreme cold temperature's, thick enough when temperature gets real hot. If you want to go with an oil that is/has been developed for firearms, Ballistol. Not the cheapest, but works pretty good.

[Burnt Fingers]

Back in the 50s one of the favorite stock finish repair "recipes" was 1 part 3in1 Oil and 1 part ether. The 3in1 from that era would gum up and harden eventually even without the ether acting as a dryer. I didn't like 3in1 for anything then and I still don't. I do remember my Grandma using the stuff on her treadle sewing machine.

I have an acquaintance that has some Class 3 stuff and the only lube that even remotely lasts through an afternoon of shooting is 0-20 FULL synthetic.

It is what I use regularly now. I have a few other older bottles of gun oil that sometimes get used on various lube jobs but for guns I really care about, it's 0-20.

Get some LSA. It was designed for full auto stuff.

[elmacgyver0]

Get some LSA. It was designed for full auto stuff.

Besides, it comes in neat olive drab cans and squeeze bottles.
Made for the military.

[roysha]

Indeed LSA is a good product. However, part of the OP's question included the word "cheap", which I interpreted to mean relatively inexpensive.

Given that the LSA is running somewhere in the area of $12.00 and up for 4 ounces, as compared to $8-10.00 for 32 ounces of full synthetic, I don't think the LSA qualifies as "cheap"

I will say it before someone else does. really cheap "gun oil", in the truest meaning of cheap, is ultimately much more expensive the even the most high priced oil.

[gnostic]

Mobil 1, I've been using it for years. It's the absolute best for AR's....

[Winger Ed.]

I quit using ‘gun oil’ 25 years ago.

That's about when I quit buying it.
When we lived in the city, and more people came over, some would see me use 5-20 synthetic,
and tell me it would tear up my guns--
So, I kept my last empty bottle of 'gun oil' and kept refilling it with 5-20 so they'd think I was 'doing it right'.

I clean & lube a gun before I take it out to shoot, then again when I bring it in.
So far, I haven't 'torn one up' yet with motor oil.

[Larry Gibson]

I use LSA Weapons oil.

Me too......

[alamogunr]

Get some LSA. It was designed for full auto stuff.

Never heard of LSA before this thread. Looked it up. $14.38 for 4 oz at Amazon.

I don't have any full auto guns and I'm not hard on those that I do have. I'm a sucker for anything that I can mix and the latest is a recipe I found that is attributed to Ed of Ed's Red fame. This gives me 3 or 4 different oils that I can reach for on my shelves. I somehow doubt that I will damage any of my guns by using any one of them.

[elmacgyver0]

How cheap do you want it?
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/281390

[elmacgyver0]

It is out of stock at Numrich right now but google it.
It shows up from time to time.
Sportsman's Guide sometimes have it in olive drab plastic squeeze bottles.
Don't know if they have it right now, didn't check.
Surplus is the way to buy it.

[elmacgyver0]

I checked and the guide does have it, I bought it a long time ago, a lot cheaper then, but I got it for the bottles at the time, they are refillable.
I think I got my quart can from Sarco, so far have not opened it.

[Blanco]

I use Castrol synthetic 20W50 Vtwin motor oil in my Bikes. When I do an oil change there is always a bit of oil left in the last quart.
Stuff is fantastic... I keep a clear squeeze bottle on my bench and use it frequently.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Don't think I have ever specifically purchased gun oil. I think I have one unopened bottle that came in a cleaning kit. The rest I inherited, as it outlasts the rest of the cleaning kits. I switched to ATF to cure a speecific problem and haven't looked back. I like Johnsons paste wax on the exterior. Sure makes them look nice and doesn't collect dust or lint. I messed with PTFE for a while on internals, but didn't feel like it lasted very long.

[dragon813gt]

I switched to Ballistol a long time ago. It doesn’t fall into the cheap category at around $100 a gallon. But it’s non-toxic, safe on all materials, thicker and clings to parts and it doesn’t gum up in cold weather. The last part doesn’t apply to a good portion of the country but it does where I live. A slow hammer is a sure way to miss a shot on a deer.

[Budzilla 19]

Vietnam-era LSA Medium weight weapons oil. The quart I had was almost gone, but found a full quart in a house I was cleaning out. Score!!!!!! It works really well. Plus CLP because.......... I had it. Just my .02

[murf205]

Add me to the new 3n1 oil but I miss the smell of the old original. It brings back some fond memories of my grandfather showing me how to clean and lube the mod 12 Remington that he gave me for my 12th b'day and is now in my safe.

[Burnt Fingers]

Amazon is not the place to buy LSA.

https://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/grease-oil-sealant.html

$25 gallon.

[Good Cheer]

Dangit. Knew there was something missing from the list last time we went to town.

[megasupermagnum]

Not to detract from 3 in one, but it is funny how many have mentioned motor oil. If I had not bought a gallon of CorrosionX years ago, I likely would have given up on gun oils, and gone to motor oil. Infact my Remington 11-48 (long recoil action) had dried up one day when lubed with CX, and stopped cycling. I used some 5w-30 from the truck dipstick on the mag tube, and ran hundreds of rounds without issue. Let it sit a couple weeks, went out again without thinking and continued to keep shooting with no problem. I later find out Remington even recommended a 30w motor oil back in 1948. Thinking back to all the times I've used motor oil after a rainy duck hunt without a hint of rust, I don't know why I didn't start using that a long time ago. Against what others say, I swear WD-40 causes rust. And Remoil is plum useless. Dry the gun with a towel, and wipe some oil on (not Remoil) and it will not rust.

BTW I'm fairly sure Hoppe's #9 gun oil is nothing but straight mineral oil in an orange bottle.

[elmacgyver0]

Amazon is not the place to buy LSA.

https://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/grease-oil-sealant.html

$25 gallon.

You don't think a gallon would last you very long?
I'm impressed!

[megasupermagnum]

You don't think a gallon would last you very long?
I'm impressed!

I've used my gallon of CorrosionX for way more than just guns. Yet I bet it will last me another 5+ years. I've already been using if for something like 8 years!

[flyingmonkey35]

i use ATF, and ballistol, then Remington gun oil.

ATF "Automatic Transmission Fulid" is super slick sticks very well to the metal is resistance to heat can comes off easy with just a rag.

This is my go to for my bolts on my ar15s.

[megasupermagnum]

i use ATF, and ballistol, then Remington gun oil.

ATF "Automatic Transmission Fulid" is super slick sticks very well to the metal is resistance to heat can comes off easy with just a rag.

This is my go to for my bolts on my ar15s.

Yeah, and stinks like a dead goat that a cat peed on. :lol:

Some ATF is better than others. It seems type F usually stinks less.

[gypsyman]

One I hadn't seen mentioned, is Break Free. I put it in the category of the civilian version of LSA. If you get lucky, I've picked up some up at Odd Lots or Big Lots stores for $3-$5 for either a 4 oz or 8 oz. bottle. Definitely have to shake it, as it does separate.

[izzyjoe]

I've been using 5w20 Mobile 1 for over 20 years, a good friend used in his racing engines. Before that my step dad told me to use Marvel mystery oil, and it's a great oil as well. I use Mobile 1 in the shop, and for my lathe! Browning used 30w on the A-5's, and some of those have lasted a lifetime!

[fiberoptik]

I tried Ballistol on my pocket knife & I removed it the same day. Didn’t lube for squat in my opinion. I went back to FP-10 or Armalube. I’ll leave it for the muzzleloaders.
For cheap & homemade check out [emoji196] froggies page:[URL]http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm/[URL]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[W.R.Buchanan]

I have been using Amsoil 20/50 "Racing Oil" for some time now. It stays on the job better than anything I've ever seen.

I have been using it as way oil on my Mills and Lathes and in the Air Compressor for 30+ years. In the compressor it coats the inside of the tank and prevents rust from forming and rusting thru from the inside. I have posted this here many times but I'm bored today and don't really have anything better to do.

One quart will last you for a lifetime even if you are only 12 years old now. Great Christmas Gift for that aspiring young gun nut.

Randy

[imashooter2]

I have enough Hoppe's and Outers gun oil from 50 cent yard sale cleaning kits to last 3 or 4 lifetimes.

[444ttd]

once a week cleaning, i use ballistol.

if its in the safe for a couple of months, then its g96 gun treatment.

[rintinglen]

Just plain cheap? Try Rexall mineral oil. It is sold as a laxitive, but if there's a dime's worth of difference between it and Rem-oil, I'll eat a bug.

[missionary5155]

Would you eat a live scorpion ?

[GhostHawk]

I'm with flying Monkey. I use ATF for almost everything these days.

I have not noticed any objectionable smell. My revolvers love it. Wipe it on, wipe it off. It leaves a thin film behind.

When switching loads/lubes I like to run a single lightly oiled patch up the bore followed with a dry.

Seems like things settle back down faster after the switch.

[Mal Paso]

The oil from the side of your nose is very good and cheap.

Marvel Mystery Oil is a better smelling ATF substitute. Some of those additives in the new ATFs really stink. I use Marvel in Ed's Red.

[curioushooter]

Bar and Chain oil sticks better on surfaces by far than motoroils. I had a friend that preached bar and chain oil for years. Whatever you do don't put it in a revolvers lockwork. It gums as it dries and will make it not work. That was the last time I used any sticky heavy oil in a gun. All "gun" oils I've had experience with are light oils. I suspect this is the reason. I also don't like oils that are not highly refined. They have residues and ash they leave behind. I have used pharmaceutical mineral oil as both a gun lube and as a honing oil as as a bullet lube ingredient. Works pretty well.
Another oil that works is pharmaceutical castor oil, which has incredible lubricity and film strength for a natural oil.

Also, not all ATFs are the same. Which ATF are you ATF guys using?

[megasupermagnum]

My guess is by ATF, must guys are referring to a mercon/dextron type of the various grades, as these are what are found something like 90% of the time. Maybe not though, as they usually stink like you wouldn't believe. Some of the imports used a slightly different formulation that you can find. Other than that, you usually have to look for some of the older types. Type F might be a decent one, as it a relatively basic oil, with less smell. It used to be the stuff for power steering fluid, but seems to have lost ground there.

[fiberoptik]

Bar and Chain oil sticks better on surfaces by far than motoroils. I had a friend that preached bar and chain oil for years. Whatever you do don't put it in a revolvers lockwork. It gums as it dries and will make it not work. That was the last time I used any sticky heavy oil in a gun. All "gun" oils I've had experience with are light oils. I suspect this is the reason. I also don't like oils that are not highly refined. They have residues and ash they leave behind. I have used pharmaceutical mineral oil as both a gun lube and as a honing oil as as a bullet lube ingredient. Works pretty well.
Another oil that works is pharmaceutical castor oil, which has incredible lubricity and film strength for a natural oil.

Also, not all ATFs are the same. Which ATF are you ATF guys using?

Had either a book or maybe a video on the 10-22 that mentioned bar & chain oil for the bolt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gwpercle]

ATF makes for a good lubricant , since I drive a Chevy (1968) I use the Dexron ATF , GM Spec. D-20265 or later . That way I can use it in my car's 2 Speed Power Glide transmission , to mix up a batch of Ed's Red Bore Cleaner , to mix up some Ed's Red CLP or just use it as gun oil .
Gary

[Streetwalker]

I like to put a thin wipe of Bar and Chain oil on the non-exposed metal of firearms and for general use, a synthetic 0-20wt. motor oil. For parts and things that I don't want to get gummy, Marvel Mystery Oil is the way to go, in my humble opinion. When I lived on the Oregon coast, Birchwood-Casey's "Sheath" was used on exposed metal to protect from the salt air and the incessant rain. The stuff really worked well!

[Outpost75]

Great article by Grant Cunningham on gun oils:

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

"...Let’s be clear: there are no “new”, “revolutionary” lubricant products made for firearms. That’s a flat statement, and it’s intended to be. All of the lubricants, bases, and additives of suitable use are already well known to the lubricant industry. Specific combinations might be unique, but it’s all been tried before – if not necessarily on guns.

There are several such products on the market right now that are simply a well-known boundary additive in a light carrier; at least one of them is a chlorinated ester! These things have been around a long time, and unless you didn’t know better the products using them would indeed seem to be “revolutionary.” Just remember: any new gun lube is going to be made up of readily available components, perhaps blended especially for the requirement, but will not be a “miracle”...

What would I consider a “best in class” oil? Generally, it would be one made for lubricating food processing machinery, like Lubriplate’s FMO-AW oil (specifically the 350-AW weight.) Food grade lubricants have to prevent wear in sometimes corrosive environments and they have to do so even after being wiped off of the surface they’re protecting (which is actually part of the requirement for food contact ratings!) They have good boundary protection and very high corrosion resistance especially in the presence of acids, alkalis, and moisture. They’re darned near tailor-made for our use!

I’m aware of at least one large coastal police agency using Lubriplate FMO-AW, and they report complete satisfaction with its performance. Unfortunately, it’s not (as of this writing) packaged in consumer friendly quantities – 1 gallon pails being the smallest available. You can get it repackaged in consumer sizes from Lubrikit *...

Motor oils: Generally good boundary lubrication (particularly the Havoline formulations), but very poor corrosion resistance and poor resistance to open-air oxidation. The biggest problem is that their pour-point additives often contain benzene compounds, which aren’t a good thing to have next to your skin on a regular basis! I recommend staying away from motor oils; if you must use something from the auto parts store, ATF performs better for firearms use on every count, even if it is a tad more expensive. (ATF is still 1/10 to 1/100th the cost of a specialty “gun oil.”)

WD-40 was never meant to be a lubricant – it was designed as a moisture displacer. It’s far too light for any load protection, has incredibly poor corrosion resistance, contains zero boundary lubricants, and rapidly oxidizes to form a sickly yellow varnish (hint: this is not good for delicate internal lockwork.) There are those who will defend this stuff vehemently, but then again you can still find people who think smokeless powder is a passing fad. Just. Don’t.

[Andy45]

I totally agree about WD-40. The 1970s to 1980s formulation was not too bad. It became awful after the reformulation.

After trying over 20 lubrication products I've settled on Mobil 1 motor oil. Works phenomenally well, even in ARs. A quart lasts a very long time.

For AR and other bolt locking lugs, a tiny and judiciously applied amount of Big Red tractor grease works great. I use it instead of Lubriplate in Garands and M1As too. Very cheap to buy!

For storage I've had great luck with wiping down with Break Free CLP. Unfortunately my gun storage is pretty damp despite the Goldenrods.

[curioushooter]

Still think ATF smells horrible and belongs in transmissions, not guns. I've bought many guns used that smelled heavily of it. The people selling them never seem to notice. I notice.

Seems like 3-in-one with PTFE would rank favorably.

Mineral oil and castor oil (and mixes of the two work well).

In the rare situation where grease is called for Synco Chem Co's super lube is superlative. FOOD grade, ordorless, synthetic, has PTFE and EP/AW properties exceeding soap greases. Cheap too.

There are very few situations where grease should be used IMO. I dislike how they pick up crud.

[megasupermagnum]

Hey, if you can't smell dextron/mercon ATF, more power to you. I am not aware of an oil that reeks worse. I can smell ATF half a mile upwind in a fart factory.

[curioushooter]

Oh, I can smell it MSM. It's why I think ATF is not an acceptable firearm lube despite apparently having decent lubrication and preservation properties.

[Ozark mike]

Just about any lube will work for for my stuff diesel to petroleum jelly but im not a automatic type either for those you might try
KY

[Martin Luber]

Oils are like opinions... everyone has one but objective tests are harder to come by. +1 on Cunningham.
Thanks all for info above regarding toxicity of products.

For commercial products, l liked FP 10, MilTec, Ballistol, G96

Hated CLP, many others, like my can of Hoppes, seem to be just mineral oil: useless?

2/3 10 wt non detergent machine oil with 1/3 Slick 50 is really good, as is 50-50 Marvel and STP

[Dapaki]

Full Synthetic ATF does not small bad at all, add 4 oz of Alox to Ed's Red and it hardly smells at all. We made up a half gallon of it this week and it works better than anything else we can buy. Hoppes is just water in comparison.

[megasupermagnum]

Full Synthetic ATF does not small bad at all, add 4 oz of Alox to Ed's Red and it hardly smells at all. We made up a half gallon of it this week and it works better than anything else we can buy. Hoppes is just water in comparison.

The stuff I have right now is Valvoline max life full synthetic mercon/dextron. If that is your idea of not bad at all, I can't even imagine what your bad is.

And this is coming from a guy who loves the smell of black powder, works around oil and grease all day, and doesn't even hesitate to shovel out the chicken coop.

[elmacgyver0]

Looks like just about anything will work for gun oil.
Think I will just stick with my LSA.

[Dapaki]

I am guessing that there is a certain percentage of people that find certain items/fluids to be obnoxiously stinky? I have a few that others in my family say are pleasant.


The stuff I have right now is Valvoline max life full synthetic mercon/dextron. If that is your idea of not bad at all, I can't even imagine what your bad is.

And this is coming from a guy who loves the smell of black powder, works around oil and grease all day, and doesn't even hesitate to shovel out the chicken coop.

[alamogunr]

Amazon is not the place to buy LSA.

https://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/grease-oil-sealant.html

$25 gallon.

I finally had to give up on the above link. On their website, I used the toll free number and it took me to an offer for a medical alert device.

Next I tried a number I found on their home page and after about 10 rings, I gave up.

I'm taking Outpost 75's recommendation and trying to find Lubriplate’s FMO-350-AW. It is described as a food machinery grade lubricant. QUOTE:"good boundary protection and very high corrosion resistance especially in the presence of acids, alkalis, and moisture. They’re darned near tailor-made for our use!"

It only qualifies as "cheap" if you break it down to cost per ounce.

[Ozark mike]

I used to be a mechanic i guess being drenched in the stuff all those years i just dont notice it atf is hard to beat its just 10w hydraulic oil with anti foaming additives

[quasi]

synthetic 2 stroke engine oil, preferably Lucas snow sled oil.

[fcvan]

I can't believe that everyone missed the obvious, even my cheap guns get lubricated, that has to be good!

In all seriousness, I have used many of the products listed in previous posts. Paste wax under the for end stocks, light oil for the important stuff, particularly stuff designed for wet or freezing environments. When I was on 'SWAT' we still did our training in the wet Pacific Northwest. All weapons got thoroughly cleaned and lubed before the end of training day. My agency bought Rem Oil which worked well to do it's job. My go to was Hoppes #9 for decades but I became partial to synthetic 2 stroke oil. It can take the heat and held up to 2" an hour downpours. We did tend to 'warm up the guns' before we ended training, made the water dissipate somewhat before breaking down the GLocks, Shotguns, and AR 15s. Besides, it was fun :)

[Wolverine19D]

I haven't read all of the posts on this thread but will give my input and experiences since I have tried many types over the years.

My take is all regular gun oils, and synthetic engine oil works well. Some better then others, but all of it works. I tried the different Mobil1 synthetic oils for awhile but never really liked them as well as others. They work just as well or better then most gun oils but I just didn't care for the texture and smell. Same for military CLP I hate the smell but it's a decent lube. For standard oil I use the red Lucas stuff. It's fairly cheap and has no smell and is a better oil then most I have tried.

That said, I don't use oil on most stuff I use a light grease. Not the grease from the hardware store but actual gun grease from CherryBalmz. It is about the same consistency as LSA, maybe a tad thicker but has a lot of updates over the old LSA and lasts longer and is a better lube. For those that didn't know, LSA is actually a grease.

The reason oils are so popular is because the military has been using them exclusively since Vietnam when they wanted a do it all lube that cleaned as well as lubed which meant it didn't do anything the best but did everything decently. And most greases people think of are really thick since you don't find light runny grease at wally world or your local hardware store. A grease that is similar to CherryBalmz is the TW-25b which is actually used by the military on chain guns. I never tried it since I tried the CherryBalmz first but believe it is about the same thing. There may be others out there too.

I know a lot of people will have trouble paying that much for the CherryBalmz grease when they can just get some Mobil1 synthetic and I don't blame them since it all works well. And I am a fairly budget minded person and usually go for the best bang for your buck but after trying the light greases I wouldn't want to go back to oils. They stay in place and don't run, and don't burn off like oils in a few hundred rounds. And if you go with light greases made for firearms they are good in freezing temps. The standard Black Rifle Balm is good to like -10 or -20F but they make a winter version good to like -50F and I use it on my carry pistols. It is slightly thinner then the black rifle balm and almost as good.

If you are someone who insists on cleaning your firearms after every outing and getting rid of all the old oil and relubing it then the light grease may not be for you since it costs a bit more per volume. But if you don't clean your guns after every outing you can go a few thousand rounds in most semi-autos without re applying lube. With oil every 500-1000 rounds you have to add more oil because it's burnt away. And if you have your guns in storage and don't shoot them every few months the oil will evaporate in 3-6 months when the grease will be there for years.

If you don't want to pay the price for CherryBalmz or TW25b my recommendation is LSA. It is a great lube for the money, and for budget minded people it is probably the way to go if you don't like synthetic motor oils. I never researched how well it does in freezing temps but don't believe it would work that well in sub 0F weather. One other thing I will say is I noticed a improvement in my firearms action slickness when going from regular oil to LSA, and then again from LSA to CherryBalmz. Some guns you won't notice much, but others it is very noticeable. It will also make many unreliable guns run great since many reliability issues are from friction.

[Burnt Fingers]

LSA is getting hard to find. Thankfully I picked up a couple of quarts a few years back. My shooting buddy has two gallons. One of these days I'm going to abscond with one.

[Wolverine19D]

LSA is getting hard to find. Thankfully I picked up a couple of quarts a few years back. My shooting buddy has two gallons. One of these days I'm going to abscond with one.

Good to know, I haven't been keeping track of it but thanks for the heads up. I don't use it much since I started using the CherryBalmz but have been meaning to pick up a big tub of it to keep on hand for cheap lube in the future if need be. I will start keeping an eye out for some and when I find a deal pick up some.

The LSA I have is actually the thicker stuff I got from when I was in the military. There was a few old bottles I got they were tossing out with some other stuff. I believe there is 3 thicknesses and most of what you found for sale was the medium one. I'm not sure I ever found the heavier stuff like I have for sale on the auction sites.

[dangitgriff]

Gun lube corrosion test, Part 1:

https://youtu.be/8e6VsG7ZU9o

[dangitgriff]

Part 2:

https://youtu.be/kSj0QwrmhuQ

[dangitgriff]

Part 3, final results:

https://youtu.be/uOB5eCReAQY

[Wolverine19D]

I don't have the data to watch those youtube videos at the moment but if they are the same ones I believe I've watched before it was just a test of corrosion resistance on plates of metal over time?

I know this may sound silly but I don't much care how much corrosion resistance my lube has as long as it works. I'd rather have something that lubes better then something that prevents corrosion. But on the outside of the gun a coating of whatever works best for corrosion resistance would be good especially on blued/browned firearms.

So instead of an all in one lube I'd prefer to have the best lube inside the gun, the best corrosion inhibitor on the outside of the gun, and then a good cleaner for when I decide to clean it. The all in one choices like CLP are perfectly capable of all 3 but not the best at any one thing.

[Conditor22]

Lubriplate FMO-350_AW Gun Oil 4OZ 8.50 E-BAY

[W.R.Buchanan]

I became partial to synthetic 2 stroke oil. It can take the heat and held up to 2" an hour downpours.:)

This stuff also works well on Sprue Plates on moulds and is usually what comes in the little bottle of lube supplied with higher end moulds like Mihec's. One pint will last you for a lifetime, unless you have a snowmobile or dirt bike.

Randy

[444ttd]

i use MIL-C-11796C, Class 3 in all my guns. i use a 55 gallon gallon drum and i'll heat the MIL-C-11796C, Class 3 up to 115deg and dip my guns into it. the MIL-C-11796C, Class 3 does dry, but it takes a long long while.