Ingot molds

[10sandxs]

Had an idea for low cost ingot molds. Several folks use channel iron, i did as well, but they were a bit of a pita.

Here's an i beam based ingot mold I put together in my shop today. Casts two ingots so you can let them cool while others are filling. Closure might more technical, but for now, c clamps will work...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200523/1a27b6cdaba44fedc11baccdc49a7bd6.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Conditor22]

I like the concept, don't think I'd feel safe using that without a larger base on the molds. I can see [and feel my graceful self] knocking a double mold full of molten lead over and pouring hot lead down my pants and into my shoe :oops::bigsmyl2::razz::holysheep

[William Yanda]

I like the concept, don't think I'd feel safe using that without a larger base on the molds. I can see [and feel my graceful self] knocking a double mold full of molten lead over and pouring hot lead down my pants and into my shoe :oops::bigsmyl2::razz::holysheep

With that design it would be simple to drill a couple of holes in the base and secure a piece of wood to add stability. A washer or two for standoff and I'll bet it wouldn't even char.

[JimB..]

Appreciate the creativity, but when it’s 500 degrees from the last pour and you’re trying to get those plates back on with the clamps I suspect that you’ll be using creative language.

[Winger Ed.]

I'd weld a plate on the other end and fill them while they laid flat.
With several of them, going from one to another- the first pour will solidify fairly quickly,
and you shouldn't have to wait very long before you could flip it over and fill the other side.
Laying flat and open, you wouldn't have any issues with sealing the side.

A volume of hot/molten Lead standing up on its end with a relatively small base---
that's getting a little out of my comfort zone.

[CastingFool]

I think cooling time would be extended, due to the larger mass. Welding a section of angle iron to the end (only on one "cavity") would provide a handle, the open "cavity" would work as a heat sink, and help keep your work surface from charring.

[OS OK]

What kind of pot are you going to feed those big chunks-O-lead into?

[lightman]

Thats a unique idea but I'm not sure how well it will work. But, thinking "outside of the box" has been the way a lot of things have evolved!

[JimB..]

I will say that I really like that shrinkage will be at the end, so the ingots should stack beautifully.

[10sandxs]

This is the large ingot mold i have used for the past decade or so... never really liked it, but it was a hell of a lot better than pouring 400+ 1 lb ingots... or even 1.5 lb ingots...

Ingots for size comparison... 1lb, 1.5 lb, 7lbhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/3a950b0936a195cb2752163de25a1230.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/c574f93a36caaf2dde99c1ff7e2d3f7d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/37161b34f636addcdc28906b7256ff81.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[10sandxs]

Appreciate the creativity, but when it’s 500 degrees from the last pour and you’re trying to get those plates back on with the clamps I suspect that you’ll be using creative language.Do it all the time... channel lock pliers and welding gloves. The clamp will stay relatively cool as there is a lot if surface area and relative small contact area.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[10sandxs]

I'd weld a plate on the other end and fill them while they laid flat.
With several of them, going from one to another- the first pour will solidify fairly quickly,
and you shouldn't have to wait very long before you could flip it over and fill the other side.
Laying flat and open, you wouldn't have any issues with sealing the side.

A volume of hot/molten Lead standing up on its end with a relatively small base---
that's getting a little out of my comfort zone.Tried that... unless you have some taper, they stick in the mold... that design lasted three ingots before it went into the scrap bin.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[10sandxs]

What kind of pot are you going to feed those big chunks-O-lead into?This is my current bottom pour casting pot. About 60 lbs, 6"x6"x6" internal volume. My ladell casting pot is a 6" pipe with a base welded on. The ladell pot is 2KW, the bottom pout is 5 KW.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/7d8b7cc4525407053dcaa4e5d22c8fcc.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[10sandxs]

I will say that I really like that shrinkage will be at the end, so the ingots should stack beautifully.Like a brick truck...

The tapered sides overlap just enough to "lock" the stack together, very stable on the roller cart, zero wasted space.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/f4e121fff4ace0def90380cca69cf72e.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[kevin c]

Good thinking out of the box there!

I really like how the ingots will always be uniform in thickness from end to end and side to side, with only the one open end maybe being a bit uneven. I almost never seem to be able to pour on a truly level surface, ending up with uneven ingots that don't stack consistently. Yours will always stack up flat.

How long does it take the big ones to cool to the point where they can be unmolded?

[Wisest.fool]

Thats a great idea. My pot would never hold them though. But maybe i can make something similar on a smaller scale.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

My wife threw away two cast iron popover 12 muffin pans a while back. She does that with stuff we get from my mother.....

[OutHuntn84]

Duuuuuuude I love it!!! Especially your 7# stackable ingot mold! How wide is the width and length of the channel iron you are using?

[Conditor22]

I had a similar Idea and had a friend weld these up.

https://i.imgur.com/Jk3G4sv.png

https://i.imgur.com/VjiIcHv.png

your end pour molds do look like they give you more uniform ingots :)

[10sandxs]

Good thinking out of the box there!

How long does it take the big ones to cool to the point where they can be unmolded?

I made three sets, and by the time I get the second set poured, the first one is ready for demolding. I leave it open until I get ready to pout it again so it cools off more as its empty with larger surface area. Of course, when later in the session it takes a bit longer, but cooling the empty molds with a fan helps as well. One if the issues I had with the 4 cavity channel molds I used to use is that it took a long time to cool as the mass to surface area ratio was a lot worse than the channel iron based molds.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[10sandxs]

Thats a great idea. My pot would never hold them though. But maybe i can make something similar on a smaller scale.3 inch channel and ibeam are the smallest ones available. You can get smaller u channel, but I've nut tried it... angle iron stacked and separated also makes good molds for smaller ingots...

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[ascast]

Thats a great idea. My pot would never hold them though. But maybe i can make something similar on a smaller scale.

sorry, that's criminal...start the riot

[10sandxs]

Duuuuuuude I love it!!! Especially your 7# stackable ingot mold! How wide is the width and length of the channel iron you are using?3 inch channel and I beam. They are pretty close to the same dimensions, at least they were until I machined the ibeam for better sealing... now I have a decision to make... more ibeam molds, or rework the channel molds...

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[William Yanda]

"Ingots for size comparison... 1lb, 1.5 lb, 7lb" 10sandxs

Flat out ingenious. what is the length of those 7# molds, channel size?
OK I see the channel is 3 in.

Thanks
Bill

[10sandxs]

Had a good afternoon. Two batches alloyed, then split in half and melted half of each to make 556 lbs of consistant 94/3/3 (nominal) alloy.

Molds got a slight modification 1) angle lron welded to the plates on one side. The plates were "sprung" just a bit after welding so they separate just a little from the mold, and 2) use of welding vise grips to hold plates together and tight on the molds. these resulted in a HUGE improvement in handeling. I melted, alloyed, fluxed, and poured 275 lbs of lead in about an hour and 45 minutes. Did this 4 times this afternoon. Tired now...

Ps, the final weight of the ingots is 6.25 lbs and the molds are 6 inches long/high.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/d9e1f8876fe4faaaf3e11a7f361e2c4b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/2cfbeb4b3a83bf683fba6535aabc3088.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/39bf96982736d516ff858593e29a3f39.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[JimB..]

Okay, I’m becoming a believer. You want to sell a set of three?

[Conditor22]

Hoe do they fit in an average-sized casting pot?

[kevin c]

It looks like the welding clamps could be angled so that the ends can act as stabilizing props, or do the molds even need it with a ~3"x3" base and 6" tall?

[10sandxs]

Okay, I’m becoming a believer. You want to sell a set of three?Won't sell, but would loan these for the cost of shipping. Pm me if interested.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[10sandxs]

Hoe do they fit in an average-sized casting pot?Define average... i know they won't fit in a 10 lb lee bottom pour. I Don't have any other commercially available pots to try

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[10sandxs]

It looks like the welding clamps could be angled so that the ends can act as stabilizing props, or do the molds even need it with a ~3"x3" base and 6" tall?The molds are pretty stable, if you have a relativly smooth and level base. the sides of the clamps form makeshift handles which makes moving easy as they are near or above the center of gravity and your picking both sides up at the same time. I typically let mine sit under the spout while I'm preparing the next mold so its mostly solid when I move it. I have moved them when liquid, and with some reasonable care it can be done.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[JimB..]

Won't sell, but would loan these for the cost of shipping. Pm me if interested.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I’ll take you up on that, but first I need to finish my big pot.

Speaking of which, is your ingot pot electric?

[10sandxs]

I’ll take you up on that, but first I need to finish my big pot.

Speaking of which, is your ingot pot electric?Nope... propane turkey fryer burner... my casting pots are electric for better controll, but the smelter is brute force propane...

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Cosmic_Charlie]

I use an old bath towel folded so there are four layers and saturate it with water. I place my molds on that and they cool off enough to dump fairly quickly. Does generate quite a bit of steam though.