Do you sort your revolver brass by head stamp??

[JAMESGR]

I just received a shipment of cleaned brass in .357 Magnum (looks like new) containing mixed head stamps. I'm in the process of sorting the brass by head stamp. I just don't know if it's necessary.
Does anyone else do this or do you treat all .357 magnum brass the same???

[Hawks Feather]

I have always tried to keep the same head stamp in a box of reloads. I don't think that it makes that much difference, but it is just that I am a little AR and like it that they are all the same.

[M-Tecs]

Unless you have extreme accuracy requirements like long range competitive shooting sorting has little benefit.

[Winger Ed.]

I'll sort in batches of 100 to load for rifles, except 5.56.

Handguns I don't, but I also keep everything under max. too.
If I really want to try for my best groups, I'll sort out a few by head stamp from a (same lot) bag of ammo at the range.

[Jal5]

I sometimes do it like for load development.

[slim1836]

I'm not OCD but I do separate all my brass by headstamp. When I reload, I pick a sack of whatever I have the most of and load them.

My off the wall headstamp brass is good swapping material.

Slim

[Reverend Al]

I tend to load a big batch all with the same load and then sort by headstamp as I put them into range boxes ...

[JAMESGR]

Thanks, for the replies. I normally shoot my 686 at 25 yds. and my Henry with a ghost ring sight at 50 yrds.
These are some of the head stamps I should have put them in the original post. Anyone know about their quality??
CBC; FREEDOM; GECO; SIG; A USA; PMC; AND GFL(A LOT OF THIS ONE)

[DAFzipper]

I use to. Not for practice. Hunting and load development only.

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

[Silvercreek Farmer]

I do for revolver brass, not auto. Once and done. Although even then, you can feel differences in brass hardness. Likely from different lots.

[Bookworm]

I sort all my brass for headstamp. Rifle, revolver, pistol. All of it.

Does it help ? Well, it doesn't hurt.....

[metricmonkeywrench]

I’m of the sort and group camp for all calibers. It may make no difference but it keeps me from having surprises at the range

[Bazoo]

I do both. I sort brass but I also have a mixed bag of odd stuff for plinking ammo. I shoot for accuracy so I use sorted brass. If I'm doing defensive training or killing coke cans up close, that's where the mixed brass comes in. I trim my revolver brass for consistent crimps.

GFL is Fiocchi and is good stuff. I'll load anything if I have a decent batch of it but I don't really care for S&B or PMC much. The way they feel. My favorite is winchester.

[Mal Paso]

I used to but it's been years since I've seen 44 brass discarded at the range. Best deal on new brass seems to be Starline 1,000 boxes. I checked and every last one of them has the same headstamp so I guess I do sort after a fashion.

Well there was that one guy that left 44 brass that he shot in a 45 long colt ......

[murf205]

I started sorting a few yrs back after the public range was a gold mine of once fired brass. Only problem was, the lengths were different by a few thousandth's. It really showed up on the crimping for revolvers. I was a notorious brass hound. It allowed me to shoot a bunch for cheap but I finally gave up and over the years I steadily replaced it with new Starline and now the length problem is a not-so-fond memory.

[georgerkahn]

When I shot revolver matches, pretty much all shooters reserved their "best" brass for competition. The theory (?:)?) of the day was that revolver brass all was pretty much too short to be annealed by reloader, and the "tightness" of the brass, which has an affect upon the bullet's release had most consistency with relatively new brass, all of same manufacturer and if possible, lot, as well as number of times it had been shot. We used to colour our primers with magic markers, also: unmarked was virgin brass; then yellow; then blue; then red; and finally, black. After five firings -- the remaining non-split brass was reserved for practice...
To be 101% honest, I do not know if it made a bit of difference -- but... that's what we did (early 1970s)...
and... why.
geo

[44magLeo]

For my revolvers when I buy new brass I keep them together in 50 round boxes. That way each 5o gets reloaded the same amount.
On assorted head stamp pick up brass I sort by head stamp and swap out head stamps I'm not familiar with or don't like for stuff I do.
On rifle brass I do the same but try not to buy assorted brass. If used I try to buy all one head stamp. I then sort the 1000 by weight. Lots of +or- .5 grs. This may improve accuracy and ii only cost me a bit of time. It only has to be done once.
Being retired it gives something to do when it's to dark to do other things. I don't have TV, to cheap to get cable and since it went digital I don't get any off the air.
Leo

[tazman]

Only when super match accuracy is wanted for either rifle or handgun. It makes more difference in rifle than handgun but the difference is still there.
The testing I have done for handgun, was with 38 special(many guns but mostly S&W 14) and 9mm(S&W 929) for revolver. I also tested in 45ACP. In every case the difference was there. Unfortunately, I am not a good enough shooter to make use of it without a rest.

[Win94ae]

Yes.
With my hunting revolver, I need it to be precise. I can see why many mix brass for their self defense handguns; but I keep my brass separate no matter what firearm it is for.

Having said that, I do have loads that are the same powder and charge weight; but use different cases, bullets, and/or primers... and they aren't always as precise, or hit in the same spot as the original load.

[onelight]

Some I do and some I don't , 32 s&w , 38 and 357 are mixed 32 h&r and 44 special are all star line 327 is almost all federal 45 colt I sort.

[tominboise]

For my revolvers, generally yes. For the semi autos, no.

When I sort my revolver brass, I generally just group by manufacturer and if nickel or brass. For instance, W-W and Winchester Brass are kept together. Sometimes all the oddballs will end up in one batch.

As mentioned above, buy it new from Starline and keep it together, is the easiest path.

[Hick]

I sort all brass except for my semi-auto pistols. Primarily for a slight accuracy benefit, but mostly so I can keep track of how many reloads each set has seen. I don't sort 9mm. All I do with 9mm is check to make sure it is normal brass (no odd steps on the inside or things like that). I find so much good 9mm laying on the ground that I just decap and toss it in a tube feeder and pull it out of the bottom to reload. The thing holds about 3000 cases, so I'm not too concerned about how many times they get reloaded.

[Harter66]

I do .
I had a couple of carbines that for whatever reason would not feed 45 Colts RP brass or nickle cases . Schofield cases would feed so rim dia and thickness weren't the problem .

There was another that would run 38s like water but would only feed smoothly nickle fmj 357 from Armscorp I think , 38 cases loaded to 357 OAL were 50/50 without a clear line of what did and didn't work .

I've run mixed lots of 9mm , not anymore . I had a load that was good in FC , Win a little light in RP and had belly buttons , flow around the firing pin and flattening in S&B cases , problem solved don't shoot S&B .

[Lloyd Smale]

I don't sort any handgun brass.

[dragon813gt]

Yes and no. I say yes because they are all one head stamp. I say no because I switched all pistol brass over to Starline. So I don’t technically sort by head stamp. I kept all the other brass I had and put it up for a rainy day.

[lightman]

I sort all brass, rifle, pistol and revolver by headstamp. Mostly because I want to separate out the small primers from the large primers and to separate out the crimped brass. Its only another move to put like headstamps together.

I shoot all the same headstamp when hunting, competing or for my defense loads. I'll shoot mixed brass for informal target practice or for plinking. Truthfully, I don't shoot a handgun well enough to tell the difference.

[Prcshooter]

I do, especially when using moon clips.

[Carrier]

Like some others I separate all brass for all calibers.

[mdi]

I inspect all my brass prior to reloading and I glance at the headstamp picking out some less desirable mfgs. (Amerc). It's no big deal to toss a case into a separate pile for each headstamp and sometimes I do. For my heavy 44 Magnum T-Rex Killer loads I stick to one headstamp and for load work ups, mainly for my semi-autos, I'll sort but when I find "the load" I normally relax my standards and use mixed brass. I don't think I've sorted any 357 Magnum brass by headstamp in many years, just check for splits...

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I sort all brass. It's something I actually enjoy and I usually find other culls while doing so.

[RogerDat]

I sort. Gives me another great use for empty coffee cans (my coffee team is red) and garage sale bread loaf pans. I then bag and store. I just figure it takes so little effort and helps fill the time when the dear wife gets to the remote before I do so I'm only half watching the TV.

I trim brass, even straight walled revolver brass. Only once for the revolver brass as a rule but since they get a roll crimp it helps to have more consistent crimps if they are the same length, which in theory leads to more consistent burn and pressure and accuracy. On the flip side I don't think it makes me any more accurate or any less accurate for that matter.

But my roll crimps look marvelous darling simply marvelous. :kidding:

Rifle brass I sort, why not and milsurp needs primer pocket work and is sometimes noted for thicker walls too like 5.56 vs .223 brass.

I do it that way and it is waaay better that way, so there! No really I do it, have what I think are decent reasons for the decision but I'm not sure it is needed. Just lets me enjoy the Zen time of case preparation a little more.... before the Zen of casting time, or Zen of shooting time.

[Drm50]

I keep all brass separate. On revolver brass I want it all the same length and use one make for my target and hunting ammo. I’m little less picky on ammo for fixed sight guns. Rifles I’m even more picky. I weigh and trickle each load into brass of same lot. Lucky for me I’m not into ARs or such. I deal in quality not quantity.

[1bluehorse]

I deprime them, clean them, load them, then shoot them. If you can see a difference on target by sorting your pistol brass you're a better shot than me. :lol:

[bangerjim]

I pay no attention to head stamps! Especially for revolvers, 9mm, and 40 S&W semi's.

Do it if you want. I see no need to waste time for general plinking & shooting.

I DO inspect all brass B4 reloading. VERY IMPORTANT! Have found a few cracked and junk ones in there over time and they go right in the trash.

Stay safe!

banger

[robg]

what bangerjim said .

[ABJ]

I agree with Tazman (post #18). All testing I have done it does make a difference in GOOD guns. In sloppy handguns and short range (15 yds or so) not so much. The average offhand shooter will not see the difference. Put a good gun like the smith 14 on bags and you could see some brass give you under an inch at 25 yds and other brass won't hold 3. The biggest difference I have seen is a POI change.
Tony

[MT Gianni]

If you don't sort you will eventually find some Amerc or other junk stuff that can last one or two firings at most. Unless you are a scrap yard junkie or live to pick up brass at the range you will get some. I would not want a gun tied up when I needed one.

[JAMESGR]

Thanks for the replies!!!!
I've always sorted my brass and obviously I'm not alone. People from British Colombia to South Wales UK and all across "The Fruited Plains" sort their brass.
If I had known about Star Line when I started a few years back that's what I would have. But, I didn't and I don't.
Thanks again, this brightens my day knowing there are so many sorting brass.
James
JAMESGR

[bangerjim]

I have purchased several thousands of brass from Starline. Good company. Good products reasonably priced. The just keep adding new cal's every month!!!!! And they now have many of those "weird" (to me) cals of bottle-necks.

I have reloaded hundreds of their 45LC brass at least 5 times each with no problems so far.

banger

[Bazoo]

I have 100 starline 44 mag cases I bought, and 100 federals that I fired from factory. Unlike 38 special I occasionally get from a friend, I have no other source for the 44. No 44 specials other than a handful I was sent from a member here. I have several brands in batches of 200 or 300 in 38 special, as well as smaller amounts of odd stuff, but always looking for more to add to my batches.

[brassrat]

I sort it all and the same way. Size/deprime, then measure and sort by 3 or 4 lengths. Next I pull out the same HSs from these sortings and fill plastic ammo boxes with them, a few or many at a time. At 50 or 100 they get further work and saved or loaded

[M-Tecs]

This issue seems to come up fairly frequently and it is one of the mostly easily settled . Load up 25 rounds of sorted and prepped base and load 25 rounds on mixed none sorted and test for grouping. With that you have a legitimate answerer and not an opinion.

[Bazoo]

I've done just that very thing m tec. I went from 2.5"-3" groups at 15 yards to 1"-1.5" with the wife's 686.

[M-Tecs]

Like the saying goes "your results may vary". I have tested this with handguns a lot in the 70's and 80's and early 90's. Never observed anywhere that much difference but that being said with the exception of IMI 45 acp brass none of my brass was foreign. Lot of foreign stuff in the system but unless it's IMI it gets junked out when I do case inspection.

Never tested at less than 25 yards and most was tested at 50 yards for handguns. Rifles I do initial load development at 100 and final mostly at 300, 600 or 1,000 yards unless it's handgun caliber lever gun. Things like my 6.5 JDJ and 7-30 Water's Contenders get final testing a 200 yards.

I sort by headstamp for 50 yard + handgun loads and 300 yard place rifle. For 600 yard + loads I neck anneal 100%. Even with annealing every firing long range competition ammo is sorted by headstamp and if LC year of manufacture and finally but amount of firings.

For my .223 prairie dog loads I can hold 5/8" MOA out to 300 yards with a mix of LC and use commercial. I generally load and fire 4K to 7K of these per year and I have zero need or interest in sorting by headstamp but they do get neck annealed every 3 or 4 firings.

Sorting by headstamp makes sense if you have substandard accuracy or your are only sorting small quantities. When you are shooting 1K or 2K or more a month you tend to eliminate steps that are not required.

[fatelk]

Sometimes I do, sometimes not. I do when loading towards maximum load. I learned about that a long time ago. 25+ years ago I was reloading for my first revolver, a Dan Wesson .357 Magnum 15". I hadn't been loading very long back then, and I was young, so I tended to load them as close to maximum as I thought I could, probably hotter than I should have. Using mixed brass from who-knows-where, I had some that would stick in the cylinder, and I had to beat them out. I noticed that every single time it was a case with a "FALK" headstamp. I figured they must have been thicker or something. Eventually I got smart, got a chronograph, backed off on the hot loads.

[Three44s]

I sort all brass. Rifle, revolver, single shot pistol and autloader hand gun cartridges.

For high performance revolver I delegate my best newest handgun brass to one or two firings before it gets relegated to a slightly backed off load, then subsequent firings to even further reduced pressure levels. (We are talking bear defense loads as to what my high performance criteria consists of)

I don’t fool with small sets of a given head stamp generally but utilize brass in a sufficient quantity to that it is in itself, enough to constitute a “batch”.

I also use different head stamps as an identifier of different loads. For instance, I hold 44 Mag Starline in very high regard. I hold my load of HS6 powder and the RCBS 250 in very high regard. Those three components are wedded at the hip around my place. No other variations allowed on my bench ... Similarily, my bear stompers are loaded exclusively in WW brass in the .44 Mag.

Powder coating opens even more avenues of ID’ing loads.

Though my loads may work fine with mixed brass, I also prefer to separate head stamps so in loading, I do not have to make compromises in die adjustments to smooth out variations.

It is all in what you make of it.

Three44s

[kevin c]

I sort my action pistol 9mm match brass, but not practice or plinking brass.

It started with inspection to cull damaged cases, then moved on to eliminating certain head stamps that I had problems loading. That I do for all brass I use, but sorting and loading by head stamp was a decision made when I found single head stamp brass could achieve single digit ES's and SD's. Does it shoot more accurately? Perhaps, but I haven't tested it as it is accurate enough for my application.

The reduced SD's and ES's matter in my sport, where lower recoiling loads are a big advantage, but not meeting the rule for required velocity for bullet weight can carry severe penalties in scoring, such as point reductions of up to 50% for "going minor", or even shooting for no score, period, for going "sub minor". Skirting the power factor floor is less likely to give me problems at the chrono stage when I use a soft shooting load that very consistently give me the velocity needed for the boolit weight loaded.

Anyway, I'm already committed to looking at the HS to pick out the unwanted brands, so it is minimal additional effort to pick out the wanted ones by brand.

[samari46]

I sort by headstamp all of my brass. Even separate the wadcutter brass from regular jacketed 38 special brass. Buddy used to teach CCW classes and got tired of picking up all the 38 brass. One day handed me the broom and said have at it. In one summer ended up with a 40mm ammo can full of both wadcutter and regular brass. Told me he was running out of room in the garage. In military calibers separate by year and mfg as lot numbers aren't generally known. Pistol leave it right there brass is usually MFS (Hungarian),A-merc, and S&B except 45acp. All you have to do is use a case chamfer tool and break the edge of the primer pocket so you see a slight chamfer on it. Frank

[Hickory]

I do not shoot competition anymore, so, I don't sort brass, about the only shooting I do now is plinking.
Plinking has the advantage of little or no frustration of making a bad shot or a miss. Plinking is fun and relaxing.
With all that said, no, I don't sort brass anymore, nor do I care.
If I want to load for hunting, that needs to be good and accurate, I'll buy a new batch of brass!

[lightman]

This issue seems to come up fairly frequently and it is one of the mostly easily settled . Load up 25 rounds of sorted and prepped base and load 25 rounds on mixed none sorted and test for grouping. With that you have a legitimate answerer and not an opinion.

I always wanted to buy a Ransom Rest just for things like this, but I never did. At one time I might have shot a pistol good enough to tell the difference. And I might not have been good enough? But I am for sure not good enough now to tell any difference.

[Biggin]

I always wanted to buy a Ransom Rest just for things like this, but I never did. At one time I might have shot a pistol good enough to tell the difference. And I might not have been good enough? But I am for sure not good enough now to tell any difference.

Dang lightman you took the words right out of my mouth! It's almost like we've had this conversation before!!!! Lol!

[JAMESGR]

Thanks for the input. I have all of the brass separated. Ended up with several HS that have 20 or less, think I'll trim them for my 38's. All mine were fired who knows how many times when I got them, so I don't worry about how many time they've been fired. Won't be correct anyway. The only competition I have is me. My bench is set up in the back door of my shot and I shoot pistols at 25 yds. and rifles at 50 yds. In the next week or so I'll move the rifle target to 100 yds.
Thanks
James
JAMESGR

[kerplode]

For light range/practice loads, I just load mixed brass. For these uses, sorting doesn't seem to matter enough to make it worth my time.

If I'm making "match" or heavy field loads, though, I'll generally start with a batch of new brass and keep them together so that they're grouped by times-fired.

[rbuck351]

Rifle yes, revolver no, autos no except for 45acp lg/ small pp.

[dragon813gt]

except for 45acp lg/ small pp.
Sorting these is the worse.

[JAMESGR]

Finally got all .357 brass sized and decapped . Next clean the primer pocket, trim, chamfer, and deburr.
Thanks for the advise
JAMES
JAMESGR

[2A-Jay]

I only sort my Handgun Brass by Caliber and Primer Size on some.

[Lloyd Smale]

yup ive done lots of testing in lots of guns and find if accuaracy changes you need a caliper to measure the difference. Guess to me it comes down to whether id rather be shooting or loading. I load to shoot. Long time ago I quit sorting handgun brass, cleaning primer pockets and trimming handgun brass. All ocd things that take lots of time and do very little in the end. Ive got a pile of ppc and bullseye trophies shot with ammo that wasn't sorted, trimmed or primer pockets cleaned. Matter of fact I kind of made a habit out of shooting comp with my oldest wore out brass because I couldn't pick it up and reuse it like I can at my own range.
I pay no attention to head stamps! Especially for revolvers, 9mm, and 40 S&W semi's.

Do it if you want. I see no need to waste time for general plinking & shooting.

I DO inspect all brass B4 reloading. VERY IMPORTANT! Have found a few cracked and junk ones in there over time and they go right in the trash.

Stay safe!

banger

[Lloyd Smale]

I guess a lot of this comes down to volume. Some think there ammo flush with 6 boxes of shells loaded and range flush when the show up with a WHOLE box of shells and usually come home with a few left in the box. I go to the range with ammo cans and coffee cans of ammo. If I had to give up my dillons id quit shooting. I took up casting not because its fun but because it allowed me to show up at the range with coffee cans of ammo. im sure not about to wade through 10k of 9mm 38spec 40 or 45 brass to sort headstamps. Im not about to buy all nice new shinny brass for them either when I can get mixed headstamp once fired for a 1/3 the price and many times for free.

[bmortell]

I have to. after a few times i was loading and going through the motions and all of a sudden seating a primer or something feels different than the last 50 rounds did and red flag goes off in my head i start looking, did something on my press change, did i slip, maybe the primer or pocket was deformed. Then i just find out i got a S&B case in my remington pile, and they just feel different to load. I just cant have that. To me lack of consistancy is a sign that i messed something up, and heads up about safety hazards. So i need the cases to all feel the same.

[alfadan]

About the only thing I look out for is junk brands like amerc or those stupid small pistol primer .45acps

[Mal Paso]

I always wanted to buy a Ransom Rest just for things like this, but I never did. At one time I might have shot a pistol good enough to tell the difference. And I might not have been good enough? But I am for sure not good enough now to tell any difference.

I bought the inserts to use my Ruger 44 Mag on the Ransom Rest our gun club had. I contacted Ransom and got instructions. The results were less than impressive, I out shot it offhand. I could find nothing wrong with the Rest, double checked the instructions. Maybe 44 is too big for it? Maybe I missed something but if they were all that great I think we would see more people using them.

[Three44s]

I have to. after a few times i was loading and going through the motions and all of a sudden seating a primer or something feels different than the last 50 rounds did and red flag goes off in my head i start looking, did something on my press change, did i slip, maybe the primer or pocket was deformed. Then i just find out i got a S&B case in my remington pile, and they just feel different to load. I just cant have that. To me lack of consistancy is a sign that i messed something up, and heads up about safety hazards. So i need the cases to all feel the same.

+10!

Three44s

[Three44s]

I bought the inserts to use my Ruger 44 Mag on the Ransom Rest our gun club had. I contacted Ransom and got instructions. The results were less than impressive, I out shot it offhand. I could find nothing wrong with the Rest, double checked the instructions. Maybe 44 is too big for it? Maybe I missed something but if they were all that great I think we would see more people using them.

Well, I guess that rules out my .480 Ruger then .....

Three44s

[Jack Stanley]

Most of the time no , but when the load starts getting to the high end of the chart yes , I'll sort .

Jack

[Shiloh]

Yes, particularly for chronograph.

Shiloh

[JAMESGR]

Thanks for the replies . A lot of good info here.

For M-TECS : What group size are you getting at 50 yds with revolvers??? I'd probably get minute of target. THANKS
For THREE44s: I'll trim these so I don't have to fiddle with the crimp die.
For Lloyd Smale: I agree that shooting is A LOT more fun than loading.
Thanks
JAMES
JAMESGR

[Three44s]

JAMESGR,

That’s the idea!

Best regards

Three44s

[Geezer in NH]

I always sort my handgun brass. For caliber only. I do not shoot good enough to bother.

[M-Tecs]

For M-TECS : What group size are you getting at 50 yds with revolvers??? I'd probably get minute of target. THANKS


For 50 yards and beyond most of my serious revolver shooting is done with jacketed bullets with the exception of lead bullet 38/357 used for NRA Bullseye competition. If I can't get sub 4 inch all cylinder used groups it goes down the road. Consistent groups of 2" to 3" groups at 50 are very repeatable. With my 460 S&W and one of my Dan Wesson 15-2's that is very doable at a 100 yards. With 6 shot revolvers' it's common that one or two cylinders will not group with the rest.

That being said I have never grouped some of my fixed sight SASS revolvers. Once I have them shooting to POI testing is done since speed is mostly the name of the game and targets are very close and large.

[bobthenailer]

I sort all brass for handguns & rifles by headstamps and lot # if possible .I use a certain brand of brass for a particular load as I have several loads using the same .

[Wayne Smith]

I do sort rifle brass by headstamp and pistol when I have little else to do. I shoot rifles with scopes so I can see the difference. Pistol shooting is much less precise. My ophthalmologist tells me that there is no purpose of changing my glasses until he removes my cataracts. That was last year and I'm still waiting.

[dverna]

For handguns it is a waste of time for the vast majority of guns, shooters, and applications. I used to do it until I started shooting a lot. If I still shot Bullseye, and had the skill I had 40 years ago, I would sort for the 50 yard stages and competitions....but not for practice ammunition. Back then, I only shot CIL wadcutter cases so no sorting was needed.

I do not hunt with a pistol. I use factory ammunition for SD, and the rest of my shooting is plinking/target shooting.

It is typical to follow the advice of gurus in the gun rags as gospel. IMHO, they are either anal, or do not shoot a lot if they sort pistol brass. There are some brands, like S&B, that give me trouble but they are culled when I buy brass. Once brass has been loaded once, I never worry about headstamps again unless I am developing a new load for the pistol carbines that are used up to 100 yards.

[2A-Jay]

I am a Plinker, If I can hit what I shoot at I am happy. I sort by Caliber not head stamp. The only thing I sort by Head Stamp is my Milsurp 30-06. A lot of it is from the early '50s.