Lowering the front sight on a SAA.

[USSR]

I've got a new Pietta Model 1873 revolver that I finally got around to sighting in with my handloads. My 200gr SWC loads are shooting 5 - 6 inches low at about 50 feet, and my 240gr loads are shooting about 3 - 4 inches low. How do you figure how much has to be removed from the front sight to raise the POI up 'X' number of inches? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Don

[snowwolfe]

Could try lowering the powder charge to decrease velocity. The slower the bullet the higher they usually hit.

[ReloaderFred]

I've regulated sight of several SAA clones for particular loads at fixed distances. I just take a bunch of the preferred ammo and a sharp fine file to the range and start shooting. I take a little off the front sight and shoot again. I repeat this process until the handgun is shooting to point of aim, being careful to maintain the profile of the front sight. Then I'll use some cold blue on the sight, if it's a blued gun, or some black fingernail polish on the sight if it's a nickle plated gun.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I pretty much do it like Fred. I keep records of which loads group the best, which are closest to the point of aim, the one that does both best, take a box or two to the range and a file. There is a mathematical formula for how much to reduce the height of the sight at whatever range, but I prefer the "cut and try" method.

[USSR]

...being careful to maintain the profile of the front sight.

Yeah, that's the part that worries me. Looks like I need to make a trip to Lowe's for the file. Thanks Fred.

Don

[M-Tecs]

This saves from having to calculate it long hand.

https://www.brownells.com/guntech/sight_correction_calculator/detail.htm?lid=13093

[Nueces]

To answer your question, it goes like this. You'll compare two ratios, that of sight height to sight radius against that of POI change to target range. You want to raise your POI by 4 inches at 50 feet, or 600 inches. 4 divided by 600 is 0.006666. Thus, you want to lower your front sight by that fraction of your sight radius.

Say, your sight radius is 7 inches, you’d remove 0.047 inches. Good idea to begin with less and confirm the change by shooting. I’d use a caliper to measure height of sight from the lower barrel surface.

[USSR]

Thanks M-Tecs and Nueces. I feel better having a rough idea so as to not get carried away with the file.

Don

[Silver Jack Hammer]

I’ve regulated lots of single action front sights. I go to the range. Put a flat file down on a flat surface. Turn the gun upside down so that you are stroking the front sight along the file. Put a stack of targets or playing cards under the rear sight the same thickness as the file. File a little, shoot some. Don’t go to far.

Taking metal off is real easy. Make sure you are holding the front sight square against the file so you get sharp edges.

If you go too far, putting metal back on the front sight isn’t easy, in fact most gunsmiths with tell you easier to replace the barrel.

[elmacgyver0]

Great until you want to change your load.

[GSP7]

Could try lowering the powder charge to decrease velocity. The slower the bullet the higher they usually hit.

Can you draw a trajectory comparison picture of that Please....

The slower the bullet the higher they usually hit.

I noticed that happened one time at the range with some of my loads.... Never did take the time to figure that out

:popcorn::Fire::Fire:

[M-Tecs]

Can you draw a trajectory comparison picture of that Please....

I noticed that happened one time at the range with some of my loads.... Never did take the time to figure that out

:popcorn::Fire::Fire:

The slower load has a longer barrel time so the pistol pivots more before the bullet exists the barrel so while the slower bullet still drops more it will hit higher.

https://revolverguy.com/sight-regulation-and-point-of-impact/

https://www.gunnuts.net/2013/12/09/revolver-science-why-heavy-slow-bullets-hit-higher-than-light-fast-bullets/

[Dale53]

USSR;
I have regulated a few fixed sight revolvers. BEFORE you do ANY filing, choose your load, both for performance
AND accuracy. Think carefully and test seriously, before you commit. Then, realize that our eyes change a bit day to day. I always make a practice of spreading the filing over three range trips with your chosen load.

I have won major matches with fixed sighted revolvers, both smokeless and black powder that were regulated in the manner outlined above.

FWIW,
Dale53

[country gent]

Here is the formula I use it usually gets you very close.
Error in inches X Sight Radius in inches / distance in inches. So 5" x 7" ( estimate of sight radius) = 35 / 600" ( 50' in inches) = .0583 to be removed.

Pick up a fine single cut 6" file and handle. Along with a sheet of 320 grit wet dry sand paper. File in close and the a strip of sand paper backed by the file to finish. Dont try to do this freehand. set the pistol in a padded vise and slowly and carefully work the front slowly. when you set the pistol in the vise use a level across rear sight or inside of frame t set it true, this way you only have to worry about the file being square.

Also when testing darken blue sight as the bright metal will hit to a different point than the dark non reflective surface

[USSR]

Guys,

The bullets to be used are 200gr, 225gr, and 240gr. All are relatively light loads (which is what I want), and all that I have tested have a substantially low POI. If I can get the heavier 240gr bullet to hit at POA, I could live with the 200gr bullet shooting a little low.

Don

[DougGuy]

I for one would not regulate a Colt SAA or clone with 200gr boolits. Those revolvers were made for a 255gr boolit at roughly 800fps, they should shoot very close to the sights with this load.

[M-Tecs]

Pietta does make the Model 1873 revolver in 44/40 and 44 Mag. For regulating fixed sight guns Dales53 is spot on. "BEFORE you do ANY filing, choose your load, both for performance".

[USSR]

DougGuy,

Read this in post 15:
If I can get the heavier 240gr bullet to hit at POA, I could live with the 200gr bullet shooting a little low.

Don

[Silver Jack Hammer]

3 to 4 inches low at 50 feet is awfully low. Sounds like you’ve got your loads worked up. I have found that going home, filing on the sight and going back to the range is a receipt for removing too much metal. I would not look for a formula to determine how much metal to remove. Set your target at 25 yards and file your front sight by putting the file on a flat surface, turn the gun over and stroking the front sight across the file. You can hold the gun square enough if you are careful. When your point of impact starts coming up close to zero, maybe still a little low, go home and put a nice finish on the metal with sandpaper and bluing. Shoot the gun for a while until you are sure you need to remove more metal. Be patient, shoot often, take your time to get it right.

A single action needs to feel right, that includes finding the right load, and then getting it zeroed.

When you take the front sight down, it should become wider in your rear sight notch. You can fine tune your zero by filing the side of the front sight for windage.

Colt’s used to come out of the factory hitting low and left so the owner could file down the front and turn the barrel for zero. One of the Colt’s I bought new actually came with a front sight too short for even a 200 gr. boolit at high velocity. This was unusual, all the other Colt’s I’ve zeroed for myself and my friends came hitting low.

That being said, beware, the market is full of used fixed sight single actions with butchered front sights. I have never regretted filing down a front sight, a gun needs to hit.

I have a dozen Colt’s SAA’s, all shooters and have been shooting them for 40 years. Some of my fixed sighted guns are very accurate and hit at 100 yards and at 25 yards with the same load.

I have won State, local and National awards for competition and actual combat with fixed and adjustable sights, black and smokeless powder.

[GSP7]

I for one would not regulate a Colt SAA or clone with 200gr boolits. Those revolvers were made for a 255gr boolit at roughly 800fps, they should shoot very close to the sights with this load.

Same here, I would not file a front sight for a 200gr load in a 45 colt or a 44 either.

.

[USSR]

GSP7,

Read this in post 15:
If I can get the heavier 240gr bullet to hit at POA, I could live with the 200gr bullet shooting a little low.
C'mon guys, read the posts.

Don

[onelight]

If you have good lighting , I have Used white out on the front sight to give me a reference and get close .
I gradually add white out until I am close , file a little shy of that point and finish filing at the range as the guys describe above .

[snowwolfe]

The slower load has a longer barrel time so the pistol pivots more before the bullet exists the barrel so while the slower bullet still drops more it will hit higher.

https://revolverguy.com/sight-regulation-and-point-of-impact/

https://www.gunnuts.net/2013/12/09/revolver-science-why-heavy-slow-bullets-hit-higher-than-light-fast-bullets/

Thanks, saved me some typing:)

[Chill Wills]

I for one would not regulate a Colt SAA or clone with 200gr boolits. Those revolvers were made for a 255gr boolit at roughly 800fps, they should shoot very close to the sights with this load.

I hear you and have not done anything to my third generation Colt 45 since I got it in the early 1990's. I find it stays a safe Queen mostly because it puts 255 grn bullets powered by normal smokeless loads 6-7" high and 4" left at 25 yards. That is the distance I like best for general use in the forest.
I have shot a limited number of Black Powder fueled loads and it does shoot closer to point of aim- But still not really great. I have not wanted to mess with this handgun just because of its value. I have read in these forums of turning the barrel to center the impact. I'm not ready. I have other firearms to carry.

On the other hand, I have an Italian SAA 44 Special that is accurate as all get out.It puts its 265 grn RCBS Keith's nicely center but 5" low at 25yds. Well, that is not handy. I have yet to lower the front sight on it either, but doing so to that one seems worth it to make a point of aim shooter out of it. All loads tried from it land low or lower - no amount of load adjustment corrects that. Lowering the front sight is an option.

I get the notion of not adjusting the fixed sights on these SAA's but at some point it is going to happen and should in my opinion if the whole point of having a firearm in the outdoors is to hit what you are aiming at.:-)

[sharps4590]

It ain't rocket surgery. Go slow, shoot, go slow. Then, kinda like when you find yourself in a hole, stop diggin'. Stop filing when the POI is where you want it.

[JoeJames]

Could try lowering the powder charge to decrease velocity. The slower the bullet the higher they usually hit.Quite true: dwell time. I was on the opposite end trying to regulate my sights on my Lipsey 4 1/2" New Model Blackhawk. It was shooting near the absolute top of my target at 25 yards with 240 grain SWC's. I upped the powder charge in increments until I got it to point of aim. Still a moderate load - 6.8 grains of Unique running about 890 fps.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

It ain't rocket surgery. Go slow, shoot, go slow. Then, kinda like when you find yourself in a hole, stop diggin'. Stop filing when the POI is where you want it.

Well said Sir!

[USSR]

Could try lowering the powder charge to decrease velocity. The slower the bullet the higher they usually hit.

My loads are light to begin with, so this is not an option.

Don

[gwpercle]

Use the OSM (Old School Method )
1.) File two strokes of the front sight
2.) Shoot
3.) Repeat 1 & 2 until sighted in .

When you get close to sighted in ...take 1 stroke at a time .
Gary

[DougGuy]

I hear you and have not done anything to my third generation Colt 45 since I got it in the early 1990's. I find it stays a safe Queen mostly because it puts 255 grn bullets powered by normal smokeless loads 6-7" high and 4" left at 25 yards. That is the distance I like best for general use in the forest.
I have shot a limited number of Black Powder fueled loads and it does shoot closer to point of aim- But still not really great. I have not wanted to mess with this handgun just because of its value. I have read in these forums of turning the barrel to center the impact. I'm not ready. I have other firearms to carry.

On the other hand, I have an Italian SAA 44 Special that is accurate as all get out.It puts its 265 grn RCBS Keith's nicely center but 5" low at 25yds. Well, that is not handy. I have yet to lower the front sight on it either, but doing so to that one seems worth it to make a point of aim shooter out of it. All loads tried from it land low or lower - no amount of load adjustment corrects that. Lowering the front sight is an option.

I get the notion of not adjusting the fixed sights on these SAA's but at some point it is going to happen and should in my opinion if the whole point of having a firearm in the outdoors is to hit what you are aiming at.:-)

Don't laugh.. I actually did this, true story..

I have a 7 1/2" SBH that I use for the Lee C430-310-RF boolit, I think I have that over 17.0gr 2400 but don't quote me on the load. I had the rear sight screwed all the way down, and it was still hitting quite high at 25yds so in the shop I went, and upside down on the belt sander it went, until the rear sight blade was flush with the base. I filed a new notch in the middle, "blued" it with a black sharpie and shot it some more. Now, it is dead on with the big heavy boolit shooting on level ground, if I am in my treestand @21 feet up I need to hold under a couple inches for a 40yd shot on a deer.

Yeah that's pretty drastic but hey it's a hunting gun, it goes to the woods and back in it's storage, and that's the only load I ever shoot with it. Cylinder is throated to .4325" for .432" boolits, they are 50/50+2% with Felix lube, can scratch them with a fingernail, I use my modded collet crimp for these heavies, forcing cone is recut to 11 degrees, and this one has laid more Bambi down on the ground than any other firearm I own. It has fed me and mine steadily over the years I have owned it. My son will probably look at it one day and go WTH was he thinking?????

[USSR]

DougGuy,

I know EXACTLY what you mean about a revolver shooting way high with the rear sight screwed all the way down; I own a S&W 25-5.

Don

[W.R.Buchanan]

OK; according to Nuece's formula with a result of .00666 which is real close to .007 or two or three good file strokes, I'd ask,,,

Can you actually see the difference between .000 and .007 from 3 feet away? Maybe indexing the sights in a different way would get you there instead of filing off metal you can't put back.

There are two factors in sighting. Sight Alignment,, and Sight Picture. They are two different things. Sight alignment is how you index the sights side to side and up and down. IE: how the Front Sight sits in the Rear Sight.

Sight Picture is what the sights look like when you hit the target.

Perfect example of this is the Tru Glo TFO Sights on my G23. The Dots are all the same size however the Front Sight Dot appears smaller due to it's distance from the rear sight.

When I first started shooting with these sights I was lining up all three dots in a row. All shots were going low.

After figuring out that the top of the front sight blade aligned flush with the top of the rear sight yielded a correct hit, I realized that the Front Dot's "top edge" coincided with the top edges of the rear dots, my new Sight Picture became evident.

Hits occur with every shot when I have broke the shot when this alignment is held in place. (my part)

You might try that before jumping off this cliff.

Randy

[M-Tecs]

Without knowing the exact distance from the back of the rear sight to the highest point on the front we can't give exact measurement but the amount will be more like .067".

As to the human eyes ability see .007 difference on the front sight service rifle and iron sight match rifle shooters make proven that they can see much finer than .007". On an M-14 sight radius .007781254" is one MOA so basically .008".

When you get to the Master and High Master levels service rifle shooter grumble that the .004" movement on the 1/2 MOA NM sights is too coarse. The match rifle shooter grumble about the 1/4" sights or .002" being too coarse. My eyes were never that good but some of the US Palma Team members I scored for could call their shots well within the X ring at a 1,000 yards. The X Ring is 10".

https://www.creedmoorsports.com/product/centra-long-range-sight-weaver-mount/sights-and-sight-accessories
Clicks in either 1/4, 1/8, or 1/12 MOA

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Be sure zero is set for how you shoot. Most shoot single actions off hand. Your zero from the bench is probably going to be different.

[Chill Wills]

Not to put too fine a point on this but I agree with M-tecs basic message.

The human eye can discern these small differences and that is why the sights work. I say this from experience. Back when the NRA supported an active Creedmoor team I traveled to and shot international matches on their dime as well as shooting untold numbers of domestic longrange creedmoor matches. These are all iron sight matches at 800, 900, and 1000 yards. I have won the national championship and international championships as well as placed in the top ten most matches. If you could not see these small differences, it could not be done. The problem is not seeing the difference as much as holding it correctly.

W.R. Buchanan, respectfully, that is why in the three dots of the same size example you gave, you could discriminate differences in the sights by either holding the center of the dots level or holding the top of the dots level.

I did the math using a little different method but am confident in the numbers. My SAA 44 Special is shooting accurate groups but low at 25 yards and can be corrected with 0.026" off the top of the front sight. This info is going to be rechecked on the target before there is any action removing metal. Then maybe I will make a half correction and shoot it again. In the spirit of taking it off slowly, then maybe take more off.
Slow and easy makes for a fun project. I am in not hurry.

Be safe, Michael Rix

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Chill Wills, my hat is off to you. I’ve shot those 1,000 yard matches with iron sights. The only 1,000 yard range in this state is on the windy side of the mountains, not where I live. Cranking the Soule for what the wind will be at the time of the next shot is challenging. I shoot a .45-70.

The OP states he is 3-4” low at 50 feet with a 250 gr. boolit. Whether that is from a bench or off hand, he has not posted. I don’t have a ballistics calculator.

[USSR]

The OP states he is 3-4” low at 50 feet with a 250 gr. boolit. Whether that is from a bench or off hand, he has not posted.

It was a 240gr bullet (Lyman 452423 clone) fired from a bench. Since I have a range on my land outside my house, I will remove a little from the front sight and test it until I have it shooting higher.

Don

[Silver Jack Hammer]

USSR, Before you remove any front sight, try shooting off hand and then see where your point of impact is on the target.

[USSR]

Sorry Jack, but that defies all logic. I simply cannot hold any where's near as steady shooting off hand. The whole idea of shooting off a bench is to eliminate as much shooter error as possible.

Don

[Silver Jack Hammer]

If your groups off hand aren’t low, I’d just shoot the gun without filing the sights. Your zero off hand is likely to be different than your zero from a bench. A single action is generally carried on a belt and shot off hand.

Have you printed some groups out to 25 yards, 50 yards?

My 452423 drops boolits weighing 250 gr. They don’t size very well in my .452” H&I die, I have use .454”

[USSR]

Jack,

If my rounds fired off hand are not going where the gun shoots them from a steady rest, then the problem is me, not the gun sights. It will be carried in a belt and shot off hand once it is shooting to POA. I don't and have no intention to shoot this revolver at 25 and 50 yards. Don't know why your 452423 is casting such heavy bullets. The mold is designed to cast 238 - 240 grain bullets. I also cast this bullet as hollowpoints, and they weigh about 225 grains.

Don

[Silver Jack Hammer]

I’m just concerned your zero on the bench is higher than your off hand zero, then you’ll have a front sight that isn’t high enough, and you’ll be stuck.

I don’t know why my 452423 drops 250 gr. boolits, it’s an old Lyman single cavity that came in the cardboard black boxes. I don’t use it that much. I cast the 452423 to load for my Starline Schofield brass.

Why don’t you try Dave Scovill’s 45-270-SAA in your single action. This is most accurate boolit at 25 yards and in.

[USSR]

I've got the .45-270-SAA mold and bullets, but I don't want to shoot it in my Pietta. What I'm trying to do is create light recoiling loads with the lighter bullets using fast powders like Red Dot.

Don

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Red Dot is a winner in the .45 Colt and the 452423 is a great boolit. Sounds like an excellent load for your Pietta.

[44MAG#1]

What Silver Jack Hammer is meaning I'm sure is some people, when benching a handgun, will hold it hard into the bags. This impedes free recoil movement which makes the shot go low. When fired offhand the gun recoils more freely and the same load will shoot higher. Some shooters will develop a hold off the bench that will allow the POI to be the same as offhand POI or so close as to not make any difference.
Need to try it offhand just to be on the safe side. This is just being cautious nothing more nothing less. I've seen this happen to people who are more bench shooters than anything else.
What does it cost except a few rounds of ammo and some time to do it.
Ive seen some people shoot 3 inches or more low at 25 yards by holding the gun hard into the bags when offhand they were dead on or slightly high at 25 yards.
IT Does Happen. Believe it or not.

[35 Whelen]

Since I'm a huge fan of SA revolvers and fixed sights, I too have regulated quite a few revolvers, so here are some thoughts from my experience-

Forget trying to calculate how much metal to remove. Shoot, file, repeat, and before you begin that endeavor, shoot your revolver until it becomes an extension of your arm.

The guys telling you not to regulate the sights shooting from the bench are spot on. I learned this the hard way early on and had to replace a couple of front sights on my Uberti SA .44 Special's. If you're not adept at shooting offhand, then use the seated, back-rested position with your wrists resting on your knees. I quite honestly can shoot smaller groups shooting in this fashion than I can from a bench. And as a plus, my POI's from seated, back-rested shooting are the same as shooting offhand.

Pick the load you'll use the most and sight the revolver in with it. Please don't take offense, but I've never seen the use in shooting a wide range of bullet weights in one handgun. I understand not needing heavy bullets and loads all the time, but if a fella sticks with a fairly narrow range of bullet weights, POI's stay closer. This is especially important in the 45 Colt as it tends to show significant vertical dispersion when changing bullet weights. In my Uberti Frisco 45 Colt my hunting load is a 288 gr. SWC cast from the 45-270SAA mold, runs just a hair under 1,000 fps, and the revolvers sights are regulated so that the bullet strikes about 2" high @ 50 yds., putting it pretty much on at 75 yds. If I want to shoot a lighter load, I load a cast 250 gr. RNFP to 800 or so fps which shoots pretty close to POA at 25 yds. My .44 Special is another perfect example; My hunting load(s) for my SA's are typically a 255-260 gr. cast SWC running close to 1,000 fps. For practice and small game loads I cast a RN bullet weighing around 250 gr., give or take, and back it down to 775 fps or so. These two type loads shoots really close to one another at 25 yds.

I don't buy the bullet dwell time thing. I could be wrong, but if a man were to load his 45 Colt with a round ball (146 gr.) to 800 fps and then a 300 gr. bullet to 800 fps, they'd both have the same dwell time, but guess which one would impact higher; the one with the most recoil.

35W

[USSR]

Shoot, file, repeat, and before you begin that endeavor, shoot your revolver until it becomes an extension of your arm.

I filed it a bit (using Silver Jack Hammer's filing method), test shot it (nice having your own range outside your house) and filed it some more until I got it regulated to shoot POA with my 240gr SWC and 8.0gr of Unique load, which is the heaviest bullet and heaviest load I will be shooting out of it.


The guys telling you not to regulate the sights shooting from the bench are spot on. I learned this the hard way early on and had to replace a couple of front sights on my Uberti SA .44 Special's. If you're not adept at shooting offhand, then use the seated, back-rested position with your wrists resting on your knees. I quite honestly can shoot smaller groups shooting in this fashion than I can from a bench.

Sorry, but I've got a concrete shooting table that I do all my sighting in work from. And, I am quite adept at shooting offhand, as that is how all my handgun practice is done. So, I am good to go now and no further comments/suggestions are necessary.

Don

[DougGuy]

I don't buy the bullet dwell time thing. I could be wrong, but if a man were to load his 45 Colt with a round ball (146 gr.) to 800 fps and then a 300 gr. bullet to 800 fps, they'd both have the same dwell time, but guess which one would impact higher; the one with the most recoil.

35W

You haven't done enough comparisons if you can make this statement. The heavier boolit requires more energy to overcome the moment of momentum, which takes burn time, pressure has to rise more before the heavy reaches the muzzle. It will hit a LOT higher POI than the ball weighing half as much, and each would have a very different length of dwell time.

[ddixie884]

I believe you will find DougGuy is right...........

[44MAG#1]

You haven't done enough comparisons if you can make this statement. The heavier boolit requires more energy to overcome the moment of momentum, which takes burn time, pressure has to rise more before the heavy reaches the muzzle. It will hit a LOT higher POI than the ball weighing half as much, and each would have a very different length of dwell time.

In the grand scheme of things does it really matter what he believes? More than likely he is not going to change his opinion and you aren't going to change him. The OP was the one who asked for help and evidentally he has reached the level he needs and now he needs no more help so keeping this alive really serves no purpose.

[Dale53]

Be nice, good people, be nice!

Dale53

[Froogal]

I refuse to file down a front sight. Instead, I paint the front sight with white paint, and then use a black sharpie to blacken the part of the sight that I do not want to see. Takes a little trial and error, but now when I shoot my Uberti cattleman, I know exactly how much of the front sight I want to see and barring any operator error, I can hit the target at point of aim everytime.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

There are gunsmiths who will file grooves in the front sight post and fill them in with gold. I have shot my buddy’s six gun with this done by Clements. The gold lines are not always zeroed to a specific distance but they do provide good reference points.

By the way, my buddy’s custom .44 Special was a Model 28 6” and is one of the most accurate handguns I have ever shot, but it’s a DA so I’m not that interested.

[35 Whelen]

There are gunsmiths who will file grooves in the front sight post and fill them in with gold. I have shot my buddy’s six gun with this done by Clements. The gold lines are not always zeroed to a specific distance but they do provide good reference points.

By the way, my buddy’s custom .44 Special was a Model 28 6” and is one of the most accurate handguns I have ever shot, but it’s a DA so I’m not that interested.

I did something like this with my Uberti 32-20. After working the sight down to the proper height, I cut grooves in it with a 40 lpi Swiss file-

https://i.imgur.com/gKH3CO5m.jpg

Then after lots of experimentation, painted one of the grooves with ghetto silver fingernail polish (it looks better than in the pic) so that when the silver line is held at the top of the rear sight, the bullets hit more or less "on" at 160 yds.

https://i.imgur.com/XvMEKd0m.jpg

160 yds. sounds like a random range, but that is the distance from the overhead door in my shop, where I set up my chronograph, to an embankment at which I aim when chronographing. So I can lean back against the wall of the shop, and as long as the wind is cooperative, I can whack my 22" gong which resides against said embankment.

https://i.imgur.com/BENthm5m.jpg

All of my SA revolvers now have had the Swiss file taken to their front sights and it makes an amazing difference in the sight picture, no more glare! But since 100 yds. is about as far as I shoot with regularity, I haven't applied any fingernail polish to the others.

35W