Lee 6 Cavity 9mm Problem - Leaking at Base

[spur0701]

I had been having good luck with this Lee mold (356-125-2R), I was casting hot and fast and dropping good frosted boolits (the ones on the right). At some point though the boolits from the top portion of the mold started to have some leakage at the base and I was getting what you see on the right. I assumed the sprune plate had loosened and tightened it down but that didn't solve the problem and now I have what looks like spalling. I took the whole mold apart and clean it but there are still some streaks of lead and the spalling......have I runied this mold or can I save it or is there something I'm missing?

[JesterGrin_1]

Just an idea since I am not there. But you can put some wet/dry sand paper on a flat piece of glass of I would say 220 or 320grit and sand the top of the mold to make sure it is flat and wet the sand paper with something light such as WD40 for the aluminum as it will help keep the paper from clogging up and do the same with the sprue plate. This will not only show if anything is warped but will also let you correct it as well. :)

I will add from what I see and have been told you may get those lead streaks if you go too fast. Let the mold cool a bit longer and maybe reduce the temp of your melt.

But remove any lead on top of the mold before sanding. :)

[HeavyMetal]

It look like you were casting hot and fast....too fast!

Two things are going on here: first the sprue plate did indeed come loose. Probably from the lead build up under the sprue plate. One the sprue plate got "loose" you got base fins!

So to fix this you need to remove all the lead from the top of the mold and the bottom of the sprue plate. Lots of ways to do this, some good some bad.

I will suggest the following: a cleaning rag! The type sold to clean the stainless steel guns. these will take the blueing right off a gun but work very well to remove the type of lead build up you have.

Once you get the lead removed I will suggest you look up the thread/post on fixing these molds up so they don't do this again.

This will involve drilling a locking set screw for the sprue plate bolt, adding a dry wall screw to the mold body where the sprue plate cam leverages against the mold blocks.

I will also suggest you get some spue plate lube from Bullshop. While you have the plate off heat it up real good and, useing a q tip, cover the bottom of the plate with the lube and then let it cool naturally.

Once done you won't have the smears that started this in the first place.

Then you need to learn patience! Your not letting the sprue harden all the way through before you open the mold and thats how you got the smears on the blocks and the plate.

This also why I started using two six bangers at once It force's me to give each mold enough time to set up right before opening!

[KYCaster]

The galling you have around the sprue plate pivot is not from lead, it's from lack of lube. Use JesterGrin's sandpaper method to correct it. Light, even pressure and a figure eight motion is the key here. Hold both block halves firmly together and stop frequently to check progress.

When done, apply Bull Plate lube or a good hi-temp anti-sieze lube to prevent a reoccurance.

A warning about the lead-wipe cloths...not only will they remove lead, but they will also remove Aluminum, brass and steel. Used excessively they will literally wipe away the vent lines...use with caution. A very expensive lesson for me.

Jerry

[Ben]

Take a look at this :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=30505

Lee shouldn't sell a 6 cav. mold that doesn't have this modification done to it prior to being shipped .

It is always the 1st thing I do to a Lee 6 cav. when I receive a new one now.

Ben

[HeavyMetal]

I took a look at your photo's under stronger magnafication and KYCaster is correct that is some serious galling around the sprue plate bolt!

Without the mag it just looked like lead smears, which you also have! Again lite use of the treated cleaning cloth to remove the lead smears from the top of the mold only and then sand as suggested.

We did not see photo's of the sprue plate, if it's in the same condition you'll have lots more sanding to do and then lube as suggested!

[osage]

spur0701

I used the sanding method suggested by JesterGrin_1 to fix a galling problem on all six cav. of a mold. I bought the mold in that condition and knew I could correct it based on what others had posted here. The mold works great now.

[JesterGrin_1]

Congrats glad to hear the people on this forum could help. :)

[mauser1959]

One other thing that I find that works wonders. If I am casting fast and and long , I keep a pad of 000 or 00 steel wool handy and occasionally wipe down the top of the mold and the sprue plate, it wipes off any smears and galding. I also use a lubricant to the top of the mold and the base pins when I start ( I am a cheap ass and just use Glen's lube smeared around with my finger and it seems to work wonders as the Moly stays and the beeswax disappears).

[Southern Son]

I have a Lee boolit mould for the 310 Cadet. Heel base boolit. I get the flashing on the base of mine, too. The Sprue Plate is not loose (a bit tight but that is the way it came from the factory) and there is no lead smearing on the Plate or the top of the Mould. I have looked real close with a light of the other side to see if the Plate is warped, but I can't see any light shining throught between the Sprue Plate and the Mould. I was going to pull it apart and do the sand paper thing like Jerry says, and if that don't work, then I was going to hit it with my favourite hammer, cause scraping the flashing off the base of each boolit is getting my undies all bunched up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jim4065]

Southern Son,

Before whacking that mold, think about selling or trading it to me............

PM if interested. :roll:

[shotman]

remember one thing if you take the plate screw out you will have to install a set screw to keep it tight form now on.

[spur0701]

Wanted to thank everyone for the help. I repaired the mold as suggested by Jester, did the set screw mods. I ordered a second mold and did the set screw mods on it too. Cleaned and degreased both and applied some high temp lube......it's amazing the rate of production you get out of two six cavity molds.