357/38sp - First Timer - These Powders OK?

[psychbiker]

I'm going to reload some 158gr 357 and 38sp for the first time for use in a revolver. Much of my research shows 2400 or h110 as the go to powders for 357 mag loads. I don't have either of those nor do I have mag primers.

Powders I have are:

Bullseye
231
Clays
Lil Gun
Sport Pistol
ETR7 (Titegroup)

Many of these will work fine for 357, which would be preferred? I'm not looking for major muzzle flash loads. Be nice to use the same powder for 38sp and 357 to speed up my reloading.

[dannyd]

What are trying to do? 2400 and H110 (same as W296) are for magnum full house loads not much fun for shooting many rounds. Bullseye, 231 and clays work great for target rounds. W231 is what I use (HP-38 is the same as 231) shot about 100,000 rounds of 38 and 357 with it all target rounds.

[LeadRecycler]

I use Titegroup for .380 ACP, 9mm Luger, .38 Special, .357 Magnum. I do that because I like to use a single powder for many things. I never run full-power loads in any of them. However, Titegroup can be VERY dangerous in .38 and .357, as the charge I use is 3.8 grains under a 158 grain SWC. 3.8 grains of titegroup will fit in a .38 special case about 4 times...it takes a 5x charge to overflow the case. You need to pay attention to your powder charge on these, as they were originally a black powder round. If you're not confident in you QA controls, do not use titegroup in such a large case.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

AA #7 is a good powder for the heavier .357 bullets. Gonna try 8.5 grains of it under a 170 lswc cast at 12 bhn today. Looking for just over 1000 fps. I loaded up some 125 gr. JHP with 7 grains of Titegroup recently and they are nice shooting out of my 3" snubbie.

[dverna]

I have different powders for different results. Like dannyd said...what are your goals?

[psychbiker]

Target shooting. Nothing crazy.

The 158gr are SNS Casting 17bhn hi-tek coated.

I got 1000 brass for 38sp and 1000 357. Maybe make 200 of the 357 a little more pop.

I don't need super light loads on the 357 since I'll be shooting 38sp also.

[tazman]

Lil gun and sport pistol will work fine for less than full power 357 loads. The other powders work for light or full power 38 Special or light 357 loads.

[FLINTNFIRE]

I used to load 357 with h110 and the likes , now I tone it down a bit , not using any of the powders listed for either 38 or 357 , red dot , unique and promo , 700x , I have used .

I have etr7 but am loading 40 s&w with that and bullseye goes to 45acp .

What weight of bullet ? that would help point the way to go.

[psychbiker]

158gr coated bullet. 16bhn

I've read 5.4-5.7 is mid range 231 load for 357

4-4.2 is good for 38 special.

Still collecting info though.

[skrapyard628]

I have used Bullseye, Sport Pistol, and W231 in both 38 and 357. Coincidentally using the coated 158gr SWC from SNS which is pretty much the same (if not the exact same) bullet you are using.

I was unsure what your "ar" was in the bullet description.

For target rounds any of those three powders will work just fine for you. Bullseye was always my go-to powder for 38/357, but I am really starting to like Sport Pistol more and more. Time will tell though as I am just working through my first pound of it.

If it makes any difference to you; Sport Pistol does not eat away at the coating on the bullets like some double based powders supposedly do. I dont have any direct evidence of this because I dont dig fired rounds out of the berm. But I keep hearing it and its even in the description on Alliants website.

When going the full bore magnum load route I prefer 2400. A bonus is that you dont need to use magnum primers with 2400 whereas if you use W296/H110 you will need the magnum primers.

[tazman]

158gr coated bullet. 16bhn

I've read 5.4-5.7 is mid range 231 load for 357

4-4.2 is good for 38 special.

Still collecting info though.

4.0-4.2 of 231 may be too much for 38 special with 158 grain cast. Go here for load data for Winchester and Hodgdon powders. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol

I have a Lyman manual that calls for loads as heavy as what you quoted with SOME boolits but not all. Start low and work up.

[downzero]

I wouldn't waste your time and effort loading powder puff .357 magnum loads; just do that in .38 cases to keep them separate. Lil Gun will make full house magnum loads. The other powders listed will all make absolutely fine target loads out of .38 or .357 cases.

[1006]

If you are new to the hobby, I recommend just loading the 38 Special with any of your powders, except the LilGun.

Then move on to the 357 with the LilGun. However, if the bullets are plain lead base bullets, I still would not use the LilGun.

[psychbiker]

If you are new to the hobby, I recommend just loading the 38 Special with any of your powders, except the LilGun.

Then move on to the 357 with the LilGun. However, if the bullets are plain lead base bullets, I still would not use the LilGun.

Not new to reloading, just to these calibers.

I don’t have time to order hotter powder for 357. Need to make due with what I got.

I read mixed reviews on little gun. I’ll do a little more research on it.

[dannyd]

Not new to reloading, just to these calibers.

I don’t have time to order hotter powder for 357. Need to make due with what I got.

I read mixed reviews on little gun. I’ll do a little more research on it.


Bullseye and 231 will get that 357 moving :-D

[jimb16]

I use a lot of Bullseye for those loads.

[psychbiker]

I use a lot of Bullseye for those loads.

From the manuals I have, Lyman 49th, Hornady 7th, bullseye is sub 1k FPS.

My brother in-law is splitting the case and wants some magnum style rounds.

I can some Blue Dot locally. That seems to be a powder that fills the case and gets velocity up.

[skrapyard628]

From the manuals I have, Lyman 49th, Hornady 7th, bullseye is sub 1k FPS.

My brother in-law is splitting the case and wants some magnum style rounds.

I can some Blue Dot locally. That seems to be a powder that fills the case and gets velocity up.

Checking my chrono data for 357mag using that 158gn SNS SWC over 5.5gn of Bullseye shows an average of 1018fps. Notes say that fired case extraction was easy, primers werent flattened and it was a decent target load.

Ive used bluedot for 357 before but apparently the only chrono data I collected was for a 158gn Semi-Jacketed Hollow Point over 9.5gn of bluedot. That one gave an average of 1130fps. The notes say that this load was a bit "blasty" when fired, primers looked good, and fired cases extracted easily.

Both loads were fired from a 5" barreled SW627.

I would assume I didnt pursue using bluedot much further after that because it was "blasty" and didnt really give me much gain for a target load.

Neither of the loads listed above were trying to push the envelope. Just collecting data for target loads with different powders.

Off the top of my head Im not sure how hard you can push a 158 with bluedot. But I would still suggest looking for some 2400 or W296 if you want some heavy magnum loads.

Or load some up with the "blasty" blue dot and as long as your brother doesnt chrono them the blast and fireball of bluedot may trick him into thinking theyre some real barn burners

[JoeJames]

For moderate and target 38 Special swc's and wc's - my first choice is Bullseye, and second choice is Win 231. No way I'd try to figure out a load of 2400 in 38 Special. Both 231 and Bullseye are good, but for some reason I like Bullseye best. Maybe I'm just old school. I also use Bullseye only for 32 S&W Long. My standard Bullseye load of 3.8 grains in the Model 67 averages 778 fps, and my standard Win 231 load is 4.1 grains and velocity averages 788 fps in the Model 67. That is with Speer 158 grain swaged SWC's. Velocities are about the same in my S&W Model 15.

WARNING - Always check your charges after they are thrown with a good light - Bullseye and 231 just kind of dust the pan anyway, and a double charge could ruin you, your revolver and your whole day!

[psychbiker]

definitely won’t be using a chrono. Just wants it loud and different than the 38sp plinking rounds.

I probably should have got half 158gr and half 130gr for more snap and powder in the 357. Bars for me to load this way as I load 9mm and 40 to just on power factor to keel muzzle down and on target. A loud and large flash is useless to me. But to each their own.

[Petrol & Powder]

Using a 158 grain bullet:

Bullseye - A great powder in 38 Special casings.
231 - Another fantastic powder for 38 Special and maybe a better choice for a target load in the 357 mag casing due to the slightly larger volume and the fact that WW231 is a little bit bulkier than Bullseye.

I've burned more of those two powders than anything else in 38 Special casings than anything else.
While I have assembled target loads in 357 magnum casings, I generally load magnum casings to magnum pressures, so my experience is greater with 38 Special casings.

I can't offer much on the other powders listed by the OP,

[robg]

you dont need to use mag primers with most of those powders .get a reloading manual ,dont rely on the internet experts.

[trapper9260]

I'm going to reload some 158gr 357 and 38sp for the first time for use in a revolver. Much of my research shows 2400 or h110 as the go to powders for 357 mag loads. I don't have either of those nor do I have mag primers.

Powders I have are:

Bullseye
231
Clays
Lil Gun
Sport Pistol
ETR7 (Titegroup)

Many of these will work fine for 357, which would be preferred? I'm not looking for major muzzle flash loads. Be nice to use the same powder for 38sp and 357 to speed up my reloading.

For all that was posted on the powders you will be ok , you do not need mag primers for this cartridge ,standard primers of small pistol will be all you need for 38 spl/357mag

[psychbiker]

you dont need to use mag primers with most of those powders .get a reloading manual ,dont rely on the internet experts.

I’ve got 3 manuals as mentioned in the thread. None of the info is consistent.

[sonoransixgun]

I just look at what others are doing with the particular powder and caliber. When I see multiple people using the same load, I start with that or a little under and go from there. Never had a problem doing it that way. All the info you need (even official stuff) you can find online...

[JoeJames]

Probably no need to mention it, but with cast boolits you need to bell the case mouth just enough to let the boolit start seating. Otherwise it will hang on the case mouth.