Newbie wanting to load .32 S&W (short) with Pyrodex- what do I need?

[Chakotay]

Hello!
I purchased an antique Forehand & Wadsworth British Bulldog from GB years ago that I've always wanted to shoot.
Buffalo Arms seems to be perpetually out of stock on this black powder cartridge. So I've been entertaining making some of my own.

Having never loaded my own ammo before I have no idea where to start. I shoot cap and ball revolvers, so I have plenty of Pyrodex.

What's the cheapest route to go about this?

[Der Gebirgsjager]

An interesting question, but I don't quite follow you on "cheapest route." (?) It is, as they say, what it is. You can use Pyrodex, but I'd use the Cartridge grade rather than the P grade. So, being a cap and ball shooter, you know that Pyrodex is interchangeable with BP on a volume, but not weight basis. I'd use a scoop measure that would throw the desired volume of BP, fill it up with Pyrodex Cartridge. Since most BP centerfire cartridge shooters tend to use as much BP as they can get in the case the same is probably true about Pyrodex Cartridge, but I'd start with less. Clean the old Bulldog well after your shooting session. I've loaded several centerfire pistol calibers with Pyrodex -- lots of fun to see things like .38 Specials smoke. Oh! And welcome to the forum!

DG

[Battis]

I'd choose a bullet (or roundball) and determine how far into the case it seats, then fill the rest of the case under it with BP.
I recently loaded .32 S&W short for a "Lemon Squeezer" revolver. I used 1.1 grs Bullseye, and .321 roundballs sized to .311. But, that doesn't apply to the Forehand & Wadsworth British Bulldog if it wasn't meant for smokeless powder.

[Chakotay]

Thanks for the replies fellas.
Der Gerbirgsjager, I guess by "cheapest route" I mean that I'm not looking for expensive, multipurpose reloading equipment as this is very likely the only caliber/cartridge I'd be reloading. And that's only because I can't find it anywhere.
Something like a cheap Lee Loader in .32 S&W . . . I'm going to need one of these, correct? Brass, primers (I've seen special black powders primers?), bullets, lube, a measure?

Bear in mind you're talking to someone who has zero experience or equipment . . . but I KNOW of it.

[Battis]

You could buy a used single stage press. I've bought them for $50 or so.
Lee dies. Brass. Small pistol primers. BP. Lube.
As I said, I used .321" roundballs sized to .311". Or you could find small bullets.
Truthfully, I'd rather load my own than buy those rounds online. At least you'll know what's in them.
I shot cap and ball for many many years. The first cartridge round I loaded for was .50-70 (black powder). It was going to be the only round I loaded for. Yeah, well, I amaze myself when I see how many calibers I now load for.
I will say, this is the forum to come to for advice.

[Oyeboten]

Thanks for the replies fellas.
Der Gerbirgsjager, I guess by "cheapest route" I mean that I'm not looking for expensive, multipurpose reloading equipment as this is very likely the only caliber/cartridge I'd be reloading. And that's only because I can't find it anywhere.
Something like a cheap Lee Loader in .32 S&W . . . I'm going to need one of these, correct? Brass, primers (I've seen special black powders primers?), bullets, lube, a measure?

Bear in mind you're talking to someone who has zero experience or equipment . . . but I KNOW of it.

If I understand you correctly, you just would like to be able to shoot the old thing once in a while, without having to get in deep cost wise and hassle wise with acquiring a lot of stuff needed to be loading that Cartridge.

I'd say, just lock in a search term on Gunbroker for daily email alerts, and find a Box or partial Box or a couple Boxes of .32 S & W there.

I am sure that any old or new or in-be-tween off the shelf .32 S & W in Smokeless would be designed by the Manufacturer to be safe in the weakest BP era Revolvers, just as they all do with .38 S & W.

[Bazoo]

Howdy and welcome to the CB.GL forum.

I've never loaded BP cartridges. But for basic loading your on the right idea of a Lee loader. A funnel and the appropriate lee dipper should be all you need. Lee loaders come with a dipper but I can't say if it will grow the appropriate amount of pyrodex.

I will suggest to you another possibility. Maybe a member close to you could help if they already have the needed dies.

[Chakotay]

I've looked through Gunbroker. Currently there's only 2 listings for boxes of .32 S&W Short black powder. Listed at $110 and $135 respectively. The price isn't necessarily the issue, it's the fact that both are obviously vintage antique ammo. Almost more like collector pieces. I know ammo doesn't really "go bad", but I would like to insure it goes "bang" when I pull the trigger :)

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Yeah--the price of obsolete ammo has become astronomical. Some thoughts about your problem: First, if you could locate a box of new brass it wouldn't have to be resized. Just load it, shoot it, and then reload the empties which would likely still fit in the same gun. So in this case you might get by with just a seating die. As for finding the unfired brass, if you take into account that you could cut down .32 S&W Long to .32 Short length, then that doubles your possibilities of finding brass. Next, I might have some .32 Long brass I could let you have for the postage. I think I also have a new, unused set of Lee dies for .32 S&W Long purchased years and years ago (about 35) in anticipation of reloading for my wife's .32. It was sold in favor of a Taurus .38 Spec., so I could pass them along. But, but, but....you still need a press. So, unless you intend to seriously get into reloading, a Lee Hand Press should be more than adequate for your needs. I'm not certain, but could look, that the .32 Long dies would work for the .32 Short. If you do some intensive internet research, I think you'll find someone selling .32 Short brass at an affordable price. If not, you're faced with the possibility of having to cut down the S&W Long cases.I'm thinking that a very small dose of smokeless powder, like Bullseye, would be better than the Pyrodex idea. Forehand & Wadsworth was sort of a middle-of-the-road revolver in quality and strength, and I think you'd do fine. A Lee Loader in .32 S&W Short would be a really great find, and just right for your situation, but I'm not sure they ever made them...….and the rarer Lee Loaders have gone through the roof like everything else. Another possibility to keep your eyes open for, and probably more likely to find than a Lee Loader, would be a Lyman 310 Tong Tool in that caliber. Once again, prepare for a severe financial hit.

DG

[Nobade]

I'd go for a Lee Hand Press and a set of their currently made dies. A box of primers, can of powder, dippers, and bullets and you're in business. And clean the inside of that revolver as well as the fired cartridge cases really well if you use Pyrodex in it.

[HumptyDumpty]

I reload these all the time, both with smokeless (for those revolvers that can safely fire it), and BP. I get my projectiles from Acme Bullet Company (here (http://www.acmebullet.com/bullets-reloading-brass/32-CAL-Reloading-Bullets?product_id=455)). They shoot great, and a lubed version is available, though both varieties seem to shoot exactly the same. For BP loads, I currently utilize FFFg, though FFg worked well, before I could get my hands on the finer granulation. I simply fill the cases by hand, and eyeball the charge; just enough to get some light compression, with the bullet seated to a nominal OAL of .9241 inches. For all this, Lee dies have served me well. Most of my little 32 revolvers shoot fairly high, so start at bad-breath range, and work your way back, with Kentucky Elevation.

[bruce drake]

Starline Brass makes 32 S&W brass and LEE Precision makes affordable reloading dies in that caliber along with all their other reloading presses and equipment.

I reload for a 2nd model Iver Johnson .32 S&W Breaktop pistol like the one in this video.

That said, mine is a better condition than his and I have a thread on here where I have a picture of it and the loads and results of shooting the pistol.

https://youtu.be/zQknkwifljg

And here is the thread to get you started.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?123401-32-S-amp-W(short)-load-data-and-bullet-molds

[Chakotay]

Love Forgotten Weapons on Youtube. I've watched every one of Ian's videos!
I found these on eBay. This what I need?:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-32-S-W-Carbide-3-Die-Set-90696-NIB/124082524211?hash=item1ce3e51033:g:WgUAAOxypNtSfRq 7
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-single-stage-reloading-press-v-g-c/193446458687?hash=item2d0a4eb53f:g:3s4AAOSw-1terLT2

[bruce drake]

Love Forgotten Weapons on Youtube. I've watched every one of Ian's videos!
I found these on eBay. This what I need?:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-32-S-W-Carbide-3-Die-Set-90696-NIB/124082524211?hash=item1ce3e51033:g:WgUAAOxypNtSfRq 7
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-single-stage-reloading-press-v-g-c/193446458687?hash=item2d0a4eb53f:g:3s4AAOSw-1terLT2

You'll need a few more items to reload beside a press. Lee sells starter kits if you want the basics to go along with the die set you found. that small of a cartridge will require a powder scale to ensure you load the right amount of powder.

[toot]

just how do you take a .321 RB. and size it down to a .311 DIA. RB.? doesn't the sizer just squeeze two sides only and not the whole projectile top to bottom as it does on a pointed bullet?.

[garandsrus]

Dies are on sale at Midway. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011201072?pid=832053

Here’s ammo with black powder for sale: https://www.buffaloarms.com/32-s-w-short-black-powder-ammo-311-90-grain-lead-fn-box-of-50-amobp32sws

[Chakotay]

Dies are on sale at Midway. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011201072?pid=832053

Here’s ammo with black powder for sale: https://www.buffaloarms.com/32-s-w-short-black-powder-ammo-311-90-grain-lead-fn-box-of-50-amobp32sws

Thanks. Buffalo Arms was the very fist place I looked. And I check there regularly. It's always out of stock.

[Wayne Smith]

Yes, the things you found on ebay are a start. That press does not come with a primer seater, so you will need some way to seat primers. A rod - brass or steel - that will set in the case and a hard surface and you can set primers. You will pop a few so you might as well start doing that so you won't be surprised when it happens by accident - that's what I did as a teenager learning to load with a Lee Loader. (I'm 67 now!) Set the primer on the surface open end up, set the case on the primer, set the rod in the case, and tap the rod with a hammer. The primer will seat.

Before that you have to deprime and size the case. You will need the size/decap die, a shell holder for 32S&W, and the press you found on ebay or one like it. Place the shell in the shell holder and force it into the die - this will size the case back to nominal and punch out the old primer.

I believe that die set comes with an expander die - this opens up the case mouth so a bullet will set in it. This is your next step, and most of us do batch loading, i.e. we size/decap all of our cases, then expand them all, etc.

Now you prime the case. Then you add the powder - measured by the little scoop in the kit or, with BP a case just under full (I don't know Pyrodex), and put the bullet in the expanded mouth of the case. You put this in the shell holder with the seat die in place in the press and seat the bullet.

That die set comes with instructions for setting the dies to fit your cases - read and understand these before you do anything else.

This is a very sketchy introduction to loading a cartridge. If you will get any loading manual, and I can recommend the Lyman 50th - yes, the 50th edition of their loading manual - for a complete introduction to the loading process. It is well worth the price.

[Wayne Smith]

just how do you take a .321 RB. and size it down to a .311 DIA. RB.? doesn't the sizer just squeeze two sides only and not the whole projectile top to bottom as it does on a pointed bullet?.

Yup that's exactly what happens. You have a slightly elongated ellipse rather than a round ball. This gives it more grip on the rifling and makes it a little more accurate. I use buckshot in my 32S&W but have found the somewhat irregular so I size them first.

[Wayne Smith]

i have no idea where Hurst, Tx is. Is there anyone that is within reach of this guy to give him a hand?

[Chakotay]

i have no idea where Hurst, Tx is. Is there anyone that is within reach of this guy to give him a hand?

Thanks Wayne Smith. Hurst, TX is sort of a suburb of Dallas/Fort Worth. I'm actually looking forward to learning reloading. It's a skillset that I've always wanted to acquire.

[Bent Ramrod]

If I was in the OP’s shoes, I would scrounge the auction sites for a .32 S&W Short Ideal No 1 nutcracker tool in usable condition, for cheep.

Lead can be melted in any usable container with a torch or on a fire, and a teaspoon and gloves used to cast a few boolits in the mould on the end of the Ideal tool. They can be lubed by hand with lard and sized through the hole in the handle. Cases can be primed on the tool, and a depriming punch (likely missing) can be made of a hardwood dowel with a small brad in the end. A .22 LR empty case, soldered or glued to a handle, can be used to charge the cases with Pyrodex, and the assembly squeezed together in the tong tool.

After all the desired experience with loading and shooting the .32 S&W Short has been gained, the gun and tool can be cleaned and mounted in a shadow box, as a curio.

That’s about the most cost-effective way I can see to satisfy the casual curiosity.

[Wayne Smith]

Thanks Wayne Smith. Hurst, TX is sort of a suburb of Dallas/Fort Worth. I'm actually looking forward to learning reloading. It's a skillset that I've always wanted to acquire.

Then start with getting and reading the Lyman 50th! It will go way beyond what we can tell you.

[Oyeboten]

I've looked through Gunbroker. Currently there's only 2 listings for boxes of .32 S&W Short black powder. Listed at $110 and $135 respectively. The price isn't necessarily the issue, it's the fact that both are obviously vintage antique ammo. Almost more like collector pieces. I know ammo doesn't really "go bad", but I would like to insure it goes "bang" when I pull the trigger :)

Have you thoroughly cleaned and oiled the Mechanism and anything else which moves? ( LOrd only knows the last time anyone else may have! )

There's a quite a few various full Boxes of 32 S&W on Gunbroker right now, $17.00 and in to the 20-Dollars for a fifty round Box, of ordinary plain RNL Smokeless ones, which your Gun should be just fine with...it is not going to know or care if the Rounds are Smokeless or Black Powder...and any factory Smokeless Rounds of 32 S&W will be loaded so as to be just fine in the least strong of the BP era .32s chambering it....same as they do with 38 S&W.

One example from Gunbroker -

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/866903888



Brand new .32 S & W $31.00 a Box, from Midway -

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1000433354

I'd say. just "Go for the Gusto!"

These are what I shoot in my Iver Johnson 'Bicycle Gun'.

Post us some nice images of the old 'Bull Dog' so we can see it?

[Oyeboten]

Thanks Wayne Smith. Hurst, TX is sort of a suburb of Dallas/Fort Worth. I'm actually looking forward to learning reloading. It's a skillset that I've always wanted to acquire.

Oh!

I see things have changed!

When I first got on to re-Loading I got a nice Lyman 'Tru Line Jr.' Press, and I got also a second Turret to accept the more common "fat" size dies all the other makes of Presses use.

These are very nice Presses for Hand Gun Cartridges, and are a joy to use.

The latter version of them have the jointed Articulating Arms which have some advantage over the earlier straight Arms.

ebay always has them, Gunbroker likely does also, I have two I am going to sell, and with the Turret for using fat Dies, one can load anything one wants then, Hand Gun wise, and use any Dies one likes...and or use the '
310' Dies in the Original small size Holes Turret.

Shell Holders are easy and inexpensive if one has a little patience and luck on ebay or elsewhere.

It is a Cast Iron Press, four hole Turret style, and very nicely made.

In a relaxed stride, from de-prime of empties, to ready-to-go Box of Fifty, any Hand Gun Cartridge, usually took me about 45 Minutes.

For Black Powder, one can simply make a Dipper to hold what one wants, using a cut down version of that Cartridge Case.


Viz: ( No connection to seller, just wanted to show an example - this is the one to get in my opinion, having the improved 'articulated' Arms instead of the straight Arms of the earlier versions ).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LYMAN-TRU-LINE-JUNIOR-TURRET-RELOADING-PRESS/293565515761?hash=item4459de47f1:g:ciUAAOSwKulerA5 V

[Walks]

I bought a set of Lee dies for .32 Short & Wimpy to load .32S&W in my old LemonSqueezer.
They are a mix of .32acp & .32S&W Long dies. They work very poorly.
Sizing .321dia balls may not work too well. My Revolvers groove dia. is .313. I follow the Lyman #2 Cast Bullet Handbook and load the starting charge of Bullseye.

Found an OLD set of Lyman 310 dies on fleabay. Only ones I've seen in 4yrs. They work great with the Lyman #311252 Cast of 50/50 COWW/#2. Then PC'd with Smoke4320's Carolina Blue. End up at .314 with no sizing.

[Chakotay]

Man, lots of info. Thanks guys. However, the advice I'm seeing about using regular smokeless loads in this gun flies in the face of everything I've learned since I was a kid on safety. It's always been my understanding that smokeless powder in a black-powder firearm is tantamount to a hand grenade.

Below is a picture of the gun (actually, pre-1898 "non-firearm") in question:

261620

[Walks]

I used to Cowboy Shoot with 2 Guys that shot Only pre 1898 Guns. They Shot Smokeless Powder only. Never had a problem.
Unfortunately both have passed on from Natural Causes.

It can be done safely.
I load .32 Short & Wimpy for My Grandmother's S&W LemonSqueezer. Dad took Her out to shoot it about every year until She passed. He also took My other Grandmother out to shoot Her H&R .38S&W every year until I came home from the Service. Then it became My job to take My Maternal Grandma shooting.
They didn't like each other much. After the divorce.......

I inherited both revolvers, but not the reloading gear.
An Old Cowboy Shooter suggested the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #2. Those recipes work very well.
I've shot 50-100rds a year in Cowboy SideMatches. From 1987 to 2011.
Worked well for me.

I loaded EVERY ROUND single stage with as much care as possible.

My Revolvers are in very good condition.

That matters a lot. I knew the provence on each gun. Neither had ever been abused and had been properly maintained.

Use good judgement.

[HumptyDumpty]

Man, lots of info. Thanks guys. However, the advice I'm seeing about using regular smokeless loads in this gun flies in the face of everything I've learned since I was a kid on safety. It's always been my understanding that smokeless powder in a black-powder firearm is tantamount to a hand grenade.

Below is a picture of the gun (actually, pre-1898 "non-firearm") in question:

261620
Don't use smokeless, unless the gun was designed for it. The revolver probably will not explode, but will be damaged over time. It isn't a mater of total pressure in this case, so much as it is the pressure curve; smokeless has a very sudden pressure spike, compared to black powder. I have a very modest collection of these sorts of guns, with a particular focus on Iver Johnsons. In 1909, IJ introduced models capable of safely firing smokeless powder, briefly halting production completely of all Iver Johnson branded revolvers, in multiple models, to make the necessary changes. Any part which was deemed unsuitable was replaced in production.
It was common for people to ignore the manufacturers warnings at the time, and several of my guns are quite loose, and mostly worn-out, as a result. The source of this information, apart from my own experience, is a great book on the topic, by W.E Goforth "Iver Johnson Arms And Cycle Works Firearms, 1871-1993"

[garandsrus]

I have an Iver Johnson 38 S&W that is only rated for black powder. That’s all I am going to shoot in it.

[Wayne Smith]

I have two and a half Lyman TrueLine jr presses and some dies. Since dies currently are produced in only two calibers and 32S&W is not one of them I would never suggest such a press to a new reloader, unless I had already taught him/her on it and was going to gift it to him/her. It is not easy to find 32S&W dies any more, although I have a set.

For what the OP (Original Poster) wants the Lee dies/press he posted are very adequate, modern made, supported and better in all ways for a new loader. Once he is addicted we can introduce him to the good old stuff!

PS. Mine is my grandmother's muff pistol - and when I took it to the range one of the range masters with huge experience (US Marine sniper) asked me about it. (He likes my guns) I told him my load and started down to the pistol range I noticed he was following me. I ask him why? He said "I just wanted to make sure it went through the target backing!" One grain BE is not an unsafe load, but I approve your desire to only use Black.

[richhodg66]

I've loaded the .32 (short) on a set of .32 S&W Long dies and used an 85 or so grain RN cast bullet designed for the .32 ACP. I used the starting load of 1.1 grain of Bullseye. Was shooting this in an old top break Iver Johnson from about the turn of the century.

For what it's worth before you go making dippers, my Lyman 55 threw consistent 1.1 grain 10 for ten when I tried it out. I think I'd skip the black powder loading if it was me.

[Wayne Smith]

The OP is brand new to reloading and has no equipment and wants to load his old 32 in BP or Pyrodex. I don't blame him for that, it is the safest way to do it. I'm assuming he shoots his C&B revolvers with Pyrodex, which is why he specified it.

[HumptyDumpty]

You'll have some difficulty finding a manual which list 32 S&W (or 32 Short, as it is often called)

[richhodg66]

You'll have some difficulty finding a manual which list 32 S&W (or 32 Short, as it is often called)

I got it from my go-to loading manual which can be downloaded for free here; http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manuals/Bullet%20Casting/Lyman%20Cast%20Bullet%20Handbook%20-%203rd%20Edition%20-%201980%20-%20Reduce.pdf

[HumptyDumpty]

I got it from my go-to loading manual which can be downloaded for free here; http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manuals/Bullet%20Casting/Lyman%20Cast%20Bullet%20Handbook%20-%203rd%20Edition%20-%201980%20-%20Reduce.pdf

That is one heck of a resource, thank you for sharing! It's somewhat gratifying, to see that me pet smokeless load (1.4 grains of 700x, under a 78 grain projectile) is right in line with published data.

[Chakotay]

Got my load of stuff from Midway! The press I bought on eBay second-hand. The Pyrodex and Lee Safety Scale I already had (not sure I'll even need the scale). Jeez, this is getting expensive!

OK, anything screaming "I bought the wrong thing"?

262363262364

[mac1911]

I got it from my go-to loading manual which can be downloaded for free here; http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manuals/Bullet%20Casting/Lyman%20Cast%20Bullet%20Handbook%20-%203rd%20Edition%20-%201980%20-%20Reduce.pdf

Nice
good link!

[mac1911]

Got my load of stuff from Midway! The press I bought on eBay second-hand. The Pyrodex and Lee Safety Scale I already had (not sure I'll even need the scale). Jeez, this is getting expensive!

OK, anything screaming "I bought the wrong thing"?

262363262364

Could you use TrailBoss or even Blackhorn 209 ?

[Chakotay]

Could you use TrailBoss or even Blackhorn 209 ?

It's just that I already have a few of canisters of Pyrodex P. That's why I was planning on using it. I'm familiar with it. I've never shot "real" black powder before.

[Wayne Smith]

You are good to go. Did you get a reloading manual? Either the Lyman Cast #3 that was posted or the 50th Reloading? You really need to understand the process before you start.

What you have is more than enough. Ignore the scale, you measure Pyrodex by volume anyway. It's density is very different than that of BP. I'm assuming you have a BP measure with BP equivalent marks. If you fill the cartridge case to the base of the bullet how much equivalent BP is that? I'm guessing you can fill that case with Pyrodex but you want to verify that. I'm not sure but I think the 32 S&W was loaded with 8gr BP? You might want to verify that and see how much a case full of Pyrodex measures in a BP measure.

[Chakotay]

You are good to go. Did you get a reloading manual? Either the Lyman Cast #3 that was posted or the 50th Reloading? You really need to understand the process before you start.

What you have is more than enough. Ignore the scale, you measure Pyrodex by volume anyway. It's density is very different than that of BP. I'm assuming you have a BP measure with BP equivalent marks. If you fill the cartridge case to the base of the bullet how much equivalent BP is that? I'm guessing you can fill that case with Pyrodex but you want to verify that. I'm not sure but I think the 32 S&W was loaded with 8gr BP? You might want to verify that and see how much a case full of Pyrodex measures in a BP measure.


I've been reading the Lyman Cast #3 that was posted (along with Youtube videos). However, the information on 32 S&W (on page 254) doesn't include black powder. I have the measure in the picture below I've use for my cap & ball revolvers. It starts at 5 grains and goes up incrementally by 5 (5, 10, 15, etc...).
I'm just trying to determine the best method for making sure the bullet is actually sitting on, and compressing lightly, the powder.

262903

[HumptyDumpty]

I have never been able to fill a case with a full 8 grains. The modern brass is a bit different (I have a few vintage rounds), but I don't see how it could hold more than what I bought from Starline. I haven't used Pyrodex, but if it is anywhere close to measuring like BP, especially with the large granulation you have, I say that you are good to go. Take care when resizing and seating your bullets, that the case is aligned when it enters the die. I've accidentally damaged a couple of cases, because I was going too fast. As for ensuring proper compression, I've just been eyeballing the amount, and have had no issue yet. It is best to err on the side of slightly too much.

[Wayne Smith]

Doesn't Pyrodex say not to compress it? I don't use it so I don't really know, just something I've heard.

[Wayne Smith]

To answer your question - use your measure to put five grains equivalent in your primed cases and set your bullets. This will be your starting load. If you know anyone locally that has a chronograph beg, borrow, or intrigue them enough to let you use it. You should be able to set your measure halfway between marks, to get about 7-7.5gr equivalent and this is probably your top load. If this will be compressed when you seat your bullet you may need to drop it back if Pyrodex does caution against compression.