Favorite .22 rimfire barrel liner retaining compound?

[flintlocke]

With all the modern advances in anaerobic sealing technology, what do you like to use on rimfire liners? One Midway online tutorial uses Loc Tite 680. I have used Loc Tite 660 to salvage expensive Cat parts, where bearings have spun in the housing, with great success. After an experience with epoxy-ing a liner some years back, I am very reluctant to do that again. The old soldering thing would last a hundred years, but it ain't much fun trying to keep a 24" barrel up to flow temperature in the home shop.

[LAGS]

Most of mine were done with epoxy bedding compound.
I did solder a couple years back.
But if you tin both parts properly , then you don't have to have the whole barrel at flow temperature at the same time.
Once the tinning on both parts Flows you have a bond.
Just start at one end of the barrel and work towards the other end gradually.

[Nobade]

680 should work well unless you blue it afterwards.

[uscra112]

I now use nothing but Loctite. But I don't hot blue anything. Ideally the barrel exterior is still good enough to leave alone. One project I browned.

[Deadeye Bly]

I use 635 Loctite. It is high strength like 680 but is slow setting. In my 37 years of industrial maintenance I've seen a few instances where 680 set up too quickly before every thing was in place and sometimes bushings had to bored out and remade. I got the recommendation of 635 from Bobby Hoyt who lines a lot of barrels, some over 40" long. You just have to wait a day or two to finish working on your project. I've used Brownell's Acraglas where clearances were more than a few thousandths. It worked well in those circumstances.

[John Taylor]

I have been using 620 for over 20 years, never had one come loose. The book says it take 425 degrees to get it loose, I had to get it a lot hotter than that to pull one out. Blue tanks are about 300 degrees and will not effect the Loctite. A little heat when cutting off the excess and the Loctite is set. I usually ream the bore for a close fit to the liner, trying for .002" clearance.

[405grain]

I have machined several aluminum 10-22 barrels from 7075. I use a Redman barrel liner and fix it in place with Loctite 603 cylindrical adhesive. This gives a longer set time than using a thread locker, and a stronger bond. I've fired thousands of rounds through these barrels and have never had a problem.

[M-Tecs]

I've only done one with solder. Five or six with 680. I have used a lot of 680 for industrial applications. 680 is the highest strength and I have had zero issues.

[flintlocke]

Well thanks fellas. Just for the heck of it, I emailed Henckels/Loctite with my proposed application...asking for their recommendation. If they come up with anything that you guys haven't mentioned I'll pass it along. One thing I didn't mention in my original post, I don't have a big tool budget, and will prolly end up going in the 24" barrel from both ends...and Murphy's Law means there will be significant mis- alignment of the hole where the drill meets somewhere in the middle. There are some Youtube videos on making "D" bits and gun drills but that sounds intimidating.

[Rojelio]

Using a drill bit without a pilot is a recipe for disaster.

[AJB]

Flintlocks, I relined a 22 barrel a while back and instead of buying a pilot drill, I ground a pilot onto a regular twist drill. Then, I drilled a hole in the shank of the drill bit and used Loctite to attach a 24” rod to the drill bit. I was a bit skeptical about the bond of the extension rod to the drill, but it worked just fine and I was able to drill the barrel from breech to muzzle without issue. I used red Loctite to attach the extension rod, but don’t recall the number. I also used the same Loctite to attach the liner.

I actually drilled the barrel a bit undersize the used a properly sized reamer to bring the hole to size (it was also attached to an extension rod with Loctite). To make the joint nearly invisible at the muzzle, I slightly peened the muzzle so that the liner was a squeeze fit right at the muzzle. (This was a trick I read about on another forum.). Of course this is all finished up by chambering and making an extractor cut.

I went through all this because I wanted to keep the original barrel. If that wasn’t the case it would have been almost as cheep to install a new barrel from a manufacturer like Green Mountain if you have the equipment to do the job yourself.