Rolling Block Rifle - Rare or BUBBA ??

[RustyReel]

MODERATORS, I am posting a link to a rifle for sale below because this system tells me the pics I saved are not valid and the question is meaningless unless guys can see the rifle. If this is a violation, please feel free to delete this thread. Thanks.

Link below is to a rifle listed as a Remington Rolling Block. Not like any I have seen and I am wondering if this is some rare example, something done by a known company or a bubba job. I keep telling myself I have enough 12.7mm rifles but this one is calling to me.

It has a scalloped receiver that looks to have been done long ago, a shotgun type trigger guard that looks like it is screwed on from inside the trigger housing and the tang screw screws in from the bottom instead of the top. If it were not missing the firing pin it would probably be on it's way to me already, but as it is I would like some opinions from you guys. Thanks.

https://simpsonltd.com/remington-1867-rolling-block-c44897/

[pietro]

.

While the receiver certainly look factory to me, I've never seen an RB with receiver sides rebated like that RB has, either.

I would respectfully suggest you contact the experts over on the American Single Shot Association for further assistance.

IME, you will be allowed to post pics of the rifle there.


www.assra.com

or

http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl

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[corbinace]

If it were not missing the firing pin it would probably be on it's way to me already, but as it is...

https://simpsonltd.com/remington-1867-rolling-block-c44897/

Also note the last sentence...Breech is sealed shut.

Definitely different though. Looks interesting.

[Gewehr-Guy]

I saw it yesterday and just about called them, but I should be selling not buying. I must have completely read over the breech being sealed shut sentence, as that would be a deal breaker for me. I have more than several of these Swedish rolling blocks, and I have not seen one with that reciever profile before, and I think it may be a military receiver machined to a different profile, or it might be a Belgium made rifle imported for sale. Hard to tell who made it after 140+ years.

[ndnchf]

I wonder what "Breech is sealed shut" really means... Its an oddball for sure. But for the price, it would be an interesting project.

Simpson must buy these European rolling blocks by the boatload. They always have a lot of them for sale.

[RustyReel]

[QUOTE=Gewehr-Guy;4892134] I must have completely read over the breech being sealed shut sentence, as that would be a deal breaker for me. /QUOTE]

I read the description several times as well and don't recall seeing the breach sealed shut either. Wouldn't even have considered it has I seen that in the description. I wonder ....................

[pietro]

.

If the breach is sealed shut, I'm wondering how they know the FP is missing...….

Though I suppose they could have espied an empty PF hole in the BB after drawing the hammer back...…..

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[Scrounge]

MODERATORS, I am posting a link to a rifle for sale below because this system tells me the pics I saved are not valid and the question is meaningless unless guys can see the rifle. If this is a violation, please feel free to delete this thread. Thanks.

Link below is to a rifle listed as a Remington Rolling Block. Not like any I have seen and I am wondering if this is some rare example, something done by a known company or a bubba job. I keep telling myself I have enough 12.7mm rifles but this one is calling to me.

It has a scalloped receiver that looks to have been done long ago, a shotgun type trigger guard that looks like it is screwed on from inside the trigger housing and the tang screw screws in from the bottom instead of the top. If it were not missing the firing pin it would probably be on it's way to me already, but as it is I would like some opinions from you guys. Thanks.

https://simpsonltd.com/remington-1867-rolling-block-c44897/

"...stock has several cracks at wrist and butt. Bore has a light frost with mild pitting. Breech is sealed shut. ANTIQUE...,"

It says the breach is sealed shut, sounds like it was demilled by welding, or it would be on it's way to me. Reading some of the other threads here (and owning a shot out Steven's Favorite, the first rifle I ever shot) I was interested in buying a rolling-block. Turned out to be another thing I can't afford. Not anytime soon, anyway.

[JSnover]

I haven't seen a lot of RBs but I've never seen one with retention screws for the pins.

[pietro]

I was interested in buying a rolling-block.

Turned out to be another thing I can't afford.

Not anytime soon, anyway.


Keep looking, and asking what junk is in the back room - 3 years ago, I found a small frame RB that someone had installed synthetic stocks onto and converted to .22LR for chump change ($125).


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[Jedman]

I have never bought from Simpsons before but if you could get someone on the phone that would take the time to get the gun in their hands and explain what the sealed breech meant.
I sure hope they wouldn't weld or otherwise " de mill " the breech block so the action would be non usable.
I have heard of guns that a plug of some sort welded in but not really welded to where maybe the barrel could be relined.
That action is pretty unique !

Jedman

[Cloudy]

I haven't seen a lot of RBs but I've never seen one with retention screws for the pins.

The early Remington-made ones had that feature which was quickly discarded. The Swedes purchased machinery from Remington in around 1866-67 to produce the Rolling Block and a good portion of them had the lockscrews. The RB in question is interesting. Since Simpsons deals in a lot of Swedish RB's there is a good possibility that it came from there and may be an early commercial model from Husqvarna/someone else or it may be a conversion of another firearm entirely. There may be a possibility that a standard Swedish large bore RB firing pin may fit as may the retainer screw. It's a pig in a poke though because of the "sealed breech" statement... I think that it's unusual and may be worth the challenge for someone.

[Gewehr-Guy]

Unfortunately I've seen many plugged chamber guns on Simpsons site, even little Husqvarna .22's and a couple of cool old Flobert rifles. I think in Sweden they are only allowed a small number of firearms, and if they want a new gun, they have to sell great grandpa's old gun, or have it de-milled by welding. Probably a wise practice, can you imagine what would happen if that roller got into the hands of a terrorist?

[Jedman]

The differences that I see right off on this action are,
Scalloped sides on receiver
Hammer is shaped nicer and not as tall
Trigger guard looks as though it's a separate part from the receiver
The breech block / hammer pins appear to be slightly wider between them
Top and bottom tangs are different lengths , bottom is longer

Jedman

[fiberoptik]

Guessing game if you can save it or not.

[marlinman93]

I figured the "breech is sealed" meant the chamber, and not the breech block. But it should be a question to Simpson's prior to purchase. If it's the chamber, then a new barrel would fix it. Might reline the barrel and chamber it in a smaller US caliber, and have a nice shooter.
I've never seen a receiver with the reshaping done like this? It's obvious that's older work, and no way to tell if it's original, or just very old work.

[RustyReel]

I figured the "breech is sealed" meant the chamber, and not the breech block. But it should be a question to Simpson's prior to purchase.

Anyone interested should certainly give Simpson's a call. I check their site at least once a day when they are open and more often when they start listing stuff I am interested in. I've seen lots of references to plugged bores but never "breech is sealed" so I don't know exactly what that means. I think they may have someone new doing some of the descriptions because a week or so ago there were references to "engraved stocks", what most of us would call checkered.

Salesman don't mind talking to you, just have the listing number when you call. It makes me wonder how they can say it has a VG bore if the bore/breech is plugged. But then, their good stock has completely worn checkering, several good size cracks at the butt and a big chunk missing near the receiver.

Neat but I talked myself out of it!

[corbinace]

The outside of the action looks like it has been slimmed and rounded at the rear only, for the smaller/rounded wrist. Instead of the more square design.
The top and bottom tang screw head and tail do not seem to line up. Odd???
The breech block pin is slightly out of position, not all the way through the hole.
The bottom trigger plate of the action looks to be able to come out and has a very nice tight parting line.

I called Simpsons and they said that the breech block is secured in such a way that it does not roll. Speculated it was welded inside action to keep it from rolling open.

[marlinman93]

Well I just got off the phone with Simpson's and their description is incorrect. The breech block is not sealed. The sales person said the rifle's bore is open, as s the firing pin hole in the breech block. But after cocking the hammer, the breech block wont drop back, so it's stuck, not blocked.
I'll give you more details once it arrives. I couldn't pass up such a unique Rolling Block at $300 and I'm betting the pin is stuck in the breech block, and once freed up it will just require a firing pin, and possibly a new breech block pin. Since those firing pins are extremely simple to make, and I have lots of breech and hammer pins, it's an easy fix.

[RustyReel]

marlinman93, first, thank you for saving me from this! Second, I would be very interested in hearing your opinion of this thing once you have it in hand, and lastly I'm sure I'll be kicking myself for passing on it after I see what your magic can do with something like this. Congrats!

[Cloudy]

Right on! With the "sealed breech" issue cleared up, hopefully it will be (relatively) smooth sailing...:wink:

[ndnchf]

I look forward to seeing close ups of the action and an explanation of what's going on inside. I'm sure you'll get it straightened out and shooting soon!

[marlinman93]

I look forward to seeing close ups of the action and an explanation of what's going on inside. I'm sure you'll get it straightened out and shooting soon!

I hope so too! I'm really thinking this could be a very quick fix, but don't want to get my hopes up too high.

[Baltimoreed]

I bought a WF revolver from them and the gentleman I spoke with was very accommodating, pulled the gun from storage so to have it in hand and answering all my detailed questions and even knocked off some of the price, their wiggle room, of a very expensive piece. I would buy from them again. I am very pleased with my Webley.

[jonp]

never seen one with a trigger guard like that

[marlinman93]

never seen one with a trigger guard like that

I've seen that type of trigger guard, but never on a Rolling Block. I have seen very early Rolling Blocks with two piece lower tang and trigger guard, and that might be what this was, and someone simply changed the heavier factory guard out.

[marlinman93]

It arrived today!! Well packed, and no damage during shipment.
Now for the funny part. Their idea of a "sealed breech" was hilarious. I cocked the hammer, and tried to open the breech block but it wouldn't move. I then pulled the hammer back slightly and the breech block opened easily. One of two things going on. Either someone filed the full cock notch a little so it wont allow the breech block to open without bringing the hammer back slightly, or the notch is worn. An easy fix either way.
Looked through the breech block and it needs a firing pin and firing pin screw. I thought I had one, but mine is a smokeless firing pin, so I'll turn out a larger BP pin. Also want to make a new trigger return spring from piano wire. This trigger isn't bad, but a piano wire spring will drop it from around 4.5 lbs. to probably 2 lbs.
Cracks in the stock are so tiny I'll likely just saturate them with super glue and call it good. But there is one chip missing at the right side where it meets the receiver, which will need a filler piece of walnut fitted to fix it.
Strange part is the hammer and breech block look to have been gold washed at some time in it's early life? Still has remnants of the gold down in recesses. Bore was filthy, and appeared it was put away dirty decades ago, but good strong rifling. It should clean up and be a good shooter.
I really like the receiver shaping, and still puzzles me who did the work? The tang screw is another surprise. It goes in from the bottom up instead of top down. Very weird!

[Shawlerbrook]

MM we want pictures.

[ndnchf]

Glad it turned out well. Yes pics please. I've made new, lighter trigger springs for #1s from a piece of hacksaw blade. They work very well also.

[marlinman93]

I've got it torn down already, so I'll get some close ups of the various parts to post.
I was surprised to see the hammer and trigger spurs both appear to be Sporting Rifle items, or so expertly reshaped they have the look. The checkering on both spurs is very nice, and looks original. The hammer spur is rounded in both directions front to back, and side to side. An interesting shaped spur.
I thought the buttstock appeared to be a military stock reshaped, but it's not. The buttplate is a sporting style, and no sign of a top return in the wood. Checkering looks like a Sporting Rifle, but well worn where it's very faint. I'll probably just leave the checkering alone, and not refresh it. Forearm hasn't had any checkering, and is held on by a cross screw through the barrel on the sling swivel mount. Has little narrow 3/4" sling loops.

[marlinman93]

Here's a few disassembly images.
The receiver stripped down. Those who've messed with Rolling Blocks might notice the top tang difference. Thinner, and shorter than a military.

https://i.imgur.com/Tt3Gpdel.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dNvyrTn.jpg

Lower tang with separate trigger guard. Surprisingly riveted in place, not screwed.

https://i.imgur.com/y5nOTJ1.jpg

Hammer spur checkering.

https://i.imgur.com/YVt2e7al.jpg

Breech block spur checkering.

https://i.imgur.com/EUgY7Grl.jpg

And the unusual cocking notches on the hammer. Unusual to see the rounded breaking edge on the full cock notch.

https://i.imgur.com/MJAIOoxl.jpg

[ndnchf]

Very interesting. I look forward to seeing its rejuvenation!

[marlinman93]

Very interesting. I look forward to seeing its rejuvenation!

Thanks. It will take much less to get it running than I planned for. Since I'm quarantined, and also recovering from gallbladder surgery last week, I hoped it would be a longer project. I'd like to be out building my '39 Chev coupe, but doctor said i need to limit my lifting and exercise for awhile, and this wont take much time.

[Scrounge]

Well I just got off the phone with Simpson's and their description is incorrect. The breech block is not sealed. The sales person said the rifle's bore is open, as s the firing pin hole in the breech block. But after cocking the hammer, the breech block wont drop back, so it's stuck, not blocked.
I'll give you more details once it arrives. I couldn't pass up such a unique Rolling Block at $300 and I'm betting the pin is stuck in the breech block, and once freed up it will just require a firing pin, and possibly a new breech block pin. Since those firing pins are extremely simple to make, and I have lots of breech and hammer pins, it's an easy fix.

I'll be interested in hearing how you make out. It was too rich for my blood, but I did find a couple of Stevens Favorites I could afford, and I'll have a couple of projects to work on soon myself. As I was drifting off to sleep last night I was speculating on how I'd go about making cartridges for mine. Dimensions, and boring, and where to get the brass, and I seem to recall some good dreams. May do them as black powder only, but maybe not. Brother tells me there's a thread here somewhere about .32rf work others have done.

[marlinman93]

I'll be interested in hearing how you make out. It was too rich for my blood, .

Tough to buy a complete Rolling Block of any kind under $300. I sure wouldn't call it too rich. If anything I'd call it too cheap.

[marlinman93]

Got a fair number of mechanical repairs made today. Found a screw the right size for the firing pin screw, and it happened to be threaded full length. So I cut it to length and turned the threads off the shank, leaving about 1/8" of threads below the head to thread into the breech block. Then turned the head diameter down in both thickness and diameter to fit the recess. After that I made up a firing pin from some tool steel I had and after a few test trials with a felt marker to indicate where it was rubbing, I got it fitting well. Cut a notch for the retaining screw and it's done.
I test fitted the hammer and breech pins, and the hammer pin was dragging inside the hammer and not allowing the hammer to drop resistance free. Polished it up, and oiled with some Kroil, and reassembled both pins. Cleaned up the retaining screw slots, and heads, and reinstalled them.
The trigger was a little heavier than I liked so I bent up some .045" piano wire into a new trigger return spring. Dropped it down to around 2.5-3 lbs. and feels good now.
I opened up the crack in the forearm and used toothpicks to work clear epoxy into the crack. Then wrapped the barrel in saran wrap and clamped the forearm to close the crack. Cleaned and clamped the hairline cracks in the buttstock, and saturated the cracks with super glue to stabilize them. Too tight to do anything else, but just clamp them.
Cleaned the bore once I found my shotgun brushes and a 16 ga. brush was a good tight fit to try to get the rifling cleaner. It will need some time, and a tight jag with lead remover patches to get it like new. But it's a whole lot better than when it arrived here the other day!
Cleaning up the parts revealed the "worn" looking checkering on the breech block spur wasn't worn. It was full of dirt! Once cleaned the checkering is as strong as that on the hammer.
And turns out the trigger guard is screwed on from the inside of the lower tang. Found the screw heads when I tore it apart.


I'll be making brass from .50-70 as it's just over a buck a case. Need rims turned down slightly, and base diameter also reduced. But cheaper, and easier than using .348 Win. brass.

[Gewehr-Guy]

I am curious, are the hammer and breech block interchangeable with a Remington or Swedish action, or is it a commercial action ?

Looks like it will make a dandy little woods carbine. My last deer was shot with an original length Swede musket, in my tree strip, yours would have been much handier.

[marlinman93]

I am curious, are the hammer and breech block interchangeable with a Remington or Swedish action, or is it a commercial action ?

Looks like it will make a dandy little woods carbine. My last deer was shot with an original length Swede musket, in my tree strip, yours would have been much handier.

I haven't tried swapping parts with any of my other Rolling Blocks, so can't answer that. The hammer isn't cut for a fly, and normally all real Remington Sporting Rifle hammers are cut for a fly whether they are single set trigger or not. Of course these don't look like military or sporting hammer and breech block. They have their own unique shape.

[Cloudy]

That is really great! Did you find any markings of any sort on it?

[marlinman93]

That is really great! Did you find any markings of any sort on it?

Almost none. A serial number on the barrel, under the forearm. A large "N" stamped on the breech block face by the firing pin. Nothing else.
Surprisingly I expected to see the normal receiver stamps used on these guns, plus proof marks. But it has none of those markings to show it might have been a military rework. And receiver is full width, so I believe it's always been a sporter, and not a military rework.

[Yellowhouse]

And MM strikes first.....again!:violin:

[marlinman93]

And MM strikes first.....again!:violin:

Strike while the fire is hot. I was afraid someone else might beat me to it!!

[skeettx]

Watching with great interest.
How is the ammo coming?
Mike

[RustyReel]

Strike while the fire is hot. I was afraid someone else might beat me to it!!

I KNEW I should have went with my gut and bought this thing!! I have four 12.7mm's and one had just arrived a few days before this rifle was posted. I mean, who needs five!! Anyway, I guess we have decided it is not a Bubba job and was done either commercially or professionally. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

As far as brass. If you are going to use 50/70, try it before altering the case. One of my rifles has either been rechambered or is sloppy enough that 50/70 unaltered works fine. If you have to buy brass then consider the 50 Alaskan. I traded for a few cases on this forum and that was the easiest to convert, just trim to length.

Really lookin' forward to those after pics.....have I said that already??

[Wolfer]

I too have good luck with 50 Alaskan brass. Trim to length, size/load on 50-70 dies and shoot.

[marlinman93]

I KNEW I should have went with my gut and bought this thing!! I have four 12.7mm's and one had just arrived a few days before this rifle was posted. I mean, who needs five!! Anyway, I guess we have decided it is not a Bubba job and was done either commercially or professionally. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

As far as brass. If you are going to use 50/70, try it before altering the case. One of my rifles has either been rechambered or is sloppy enough that 50/70 unaltered works fine. If you have to buy brass then consider the 50 Alaskan. I traded for a few cases on this forum and that was the easiest to convert, just trim to length.

Really lookin' forward to those after pics.....have I said that already??

Not much to see beyond the pics I already posted. Since it looks basically the same as the original pics I didn't take more after reassembling it. I still have to do that one filler piece on the right side of the stock where it meets the receiver, but haven't whittled out a filler yet to epoxy in there.

I'll likely use .50-70 just based on cost. My time is free, and it's pretty quick to turn down rims and base diameter in my lathe once I've set the first case up. Unfortunately I was set up for the .5070 Govt. when I had my Ballard #4 Perfection in .50-70. But I sold it to a friend and didn't think I'd ever get back into another, as it's not a cartridge I was enamored with. So now I need to order dies again, and brass. I do have bullets, and a mold, so that part is OK.

Based on the Sporting hammer and breech block, I believe this gun was never a military, and not a rework. It appears to be the same parts used on Husqvarna Sporting Shotguns, and my guess is it was made after 1871 when Husqvarna began offering shotguns based on the military actions, but purpose built as shotguns. Since there are no dates, or other stampings on the action, and the action measures full width still, the marks were not polished off. Indicating a action that was always a Sporting Rifle.

[JoeJames]

In praise of this thread. I subscribe to a number of gun magazines, but this thread has been much more interesting than anything I’ve read lately. The suspense about the breech, pictures of the RB, details of the repairs, cartridge discussion all quite engrossing. Thanks.

[Scrounge]

Tough to buy a complete Rolling Block of any kind under $300. I sure wouldn't call it too rich. If anything I'd call it too cheap.

I said "too rich for my blood." I'm in the middle of a bunch of other projects, and added another yesterday, which will help me in the long run, but ate what I might have spent on the rifle. I bought a mini-mill and a bunch of (looks like mostly carbide) end mills. $412, total. I'm also a cheap bastrich. New, that mill is $600, and the carbide end mills can run upwards of $50 each. I did look at ready-to-shoot RRBs, and upwards of a grand isn't uncommon. I didn't have that much, and need to keep some $$ around in case I find another good deal that I can't pass up. All my gunsmithing experience is decades ago, too, so starting something that could have easily outstripped my skills wasn't a good choice. OP seems to have gotten himself a package that fits what he wants and what he can do. It works better this way. I could have called the seller, but didn't. He deserves a great deal! And I can follow his adventures vicariously while I'm working on my own!

[marlinman93]

OP seems to have gotten himself a package that fits what he wants and what he can do. It works better this way. I could have called the seller, but didn't. He deserves a great deal! And I can follow his adventures vicariously while I'm working on my own!

OP didn't buy it. I bought it.

[Scrounge]

OP can mean either Original Poster or Other Poster. If you're the one who got It, you're also the LP. Lucky Poster! Hope you have a lot of fun with it, and share some of that fun! I may be using my mill on a couple of Stevens, one a CrackShot & one a Take-down, both .32 caliber, but one long & one short. Don't have as much $$ in them as you do in yours, but hope to learn stuff and have fun, too.

[FLINTNFIRE]

I ran into one in local gun store a few months ago , was marked 43 spanish , rifling crisp , patina on the outside , I have always admired them but would have had to have got dies , brass and all , I passed as I had work to go do , came back by and it was sold it was only marked at around $300 .

[Scrounge]

I ran into one in local gun store a few months ago , was marked 43 spanish , rifling crisp , patina on the outside , I have always admired them but would have had to have got dies , brass and all , I passed as I had work to go do , came back by and it was sold it was only marked at around $300 .

I could have been tempted beyond my ability to resist in that circumstance, if I were actually able to touch it. Much easier to resist when I can't lay hands on it immediately. I'm weak. I admit it.

[marlinman93]

I found a Carl Gustav military Roller at a pawn shop a couple years ago for $200. A beautiful example in about 85-90% original condition. Even had very good case colors still. Only issue was the breech block spur was snapped off! But at the price it was not one to pass up. So I bought it, and began repairing it.
I made up a spur from some scrap steel and rough shaped it. Then took it to a guy I use for tig welding, and he welded the spur on for $10. Got it back home and finished polishing and shaping the spur. Then got out my thread file and checkered the spur. Blued up the breech block and it looked like it had never been broken.
That one was a 12.17x44R which I prefer as they are easily made from shortened .45-70 cases. I gave it to my son in law since I'm not a military rifle fan, and it was too nice to break down to use the action for a build. If I'd have kept it I know that's what would have happened, so better to get it away from me.
edit-Should read 11.7 Danish Remington, not 12.17x44R.

[pietro]

.

Like Clint said, Vaal - "A man's gotsta know his limitations" ! ! ;) (I had those same issues)


.

[17nut]

I found a Carl Gustav military Roller at a pawn shop a couple years ago for $200. A beautiful example in about 85-90% original condition. Even had very good case colors still. Only issue was the breech block spur was snapped off! But at the price it was not one to pass up. So I bought it, and began repairing it.
I made up a spur from some scrap steel and rough shaped it. Then took it to a guy I use for tig welding, and he welded the spur on for $10. Got it back home and finished polishing and shaping the spur. Then got out my thread file and checkered the spur. Blued up the breech block and it looked like it had never been broken.
That one was a 12.17x44R which I prefer as they are easily made from shortened .45-70 cases. I gave it to my son in law since I'm not a military rifle fan, and it was too nice to break down to use the action for a build. If I'd have kept it I know that's what would have happened, so better to get it away from me.

NO!

45-70 for the Danish Rem (kinda 45-60) but .348 Win or the like for the Swede/Norwegian.

[RustyReel]

I think he meant 50/70. MM seems to have worked with a rolling block or two so probably just a typo. But thanks for pointing it out for those who may not be aware.

[marlinman93]

NO!

45-70 for the Danish Rem (kinda 45-60) but .348 Win or the like for the Swede/Norwegian.

Yes, my mistake. Bad memory. It is the 11.7 Danish that I used .45-70 cases to build ammo for, not the 12.17 which is a larger rim and base.

[marlinman93]

Finally got some cool rainy weather which makes me want to do indoor projects. Too cool to be out in my garage working on my '39 Chev coupe!
So I had the cracks repaired, and the chip of missing wood epoxied in, but didn't get things shaped and finished until now. The cracks didn't need anything since they were tight, so just glued and clamped. The chip at the wrist got a filler piece glued in, and shaped down. Then sanded, stained to match, and some Wipe On Poly to just the repaired area. They came out nicely, and blended well.

https://i.imgur.com/17LoXFMl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WG5QhAil.jpg

The sporting style buttplate.
https://i.imgur.com/pzeksINl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ippMJlDl.jpg

Enough repairs, as I don't want a restored gun, and this still retains it's originality.

[ndnchf]

Looks great :-)

[marlinman93]

Looks great :-)

Thanks!

[koger]

Looks good, just enough done to make it function, good job overall.

[Shawlerbrook]

Looks good. That’s my preference also. I think they called it a “rustoration” on American Pickers.

[marlinman93]

I call them "sympathetic restorations", where you want to respect the gun's history and not destroy it with full restoration.

[marlinman93]

I had sent Roy Marcot pictures of this rifle and it's strange receiver, and got a reply today. He simply said in all his years documenting Rolling Block rifles he'd never seen another like this.

[Cloudy]

It does look pretty good - nice job! You should document it thoroughly in closeup photos and measurements and post them so that they will be available when/if another one shows up and the inevitable questions are asked! :wink: