I got a project to work on.

[frkelly74]

261184261185261186261187

I got a 410 bore single shot for $20 a while ago with no wood and no fore arm Iron. It was such a compact unit I thought I could make something out of it that would shoot up all the 410 bore shells that I have accumulated over the years. Today I had it together enough to see if it would shoot and it does. So now I have to get some more shells for it. The butt is kind of a prototype made from a chunk of 2x6 that has almost no visible grain and is very soft lumber..... easy to shape and sand down therefore. I say prototype because although the slot where the action slides in was tight when I started out it got loose and mis-shapen before I got the action all the way seated. I bored the hole through the butt for the stock bolt free hand and almost hit the X on the butt. It was okay to shoot for now though. It does tend to shoot high though set up as it is. The barrel and action are Japanese manufacture with the name Falcon stamped on it and also it is marked 2 3/4" chamber length, and full choke, 3" shells did fire alright through it however. I made the fore end iron by laminating three strips of 1/8" x 3/4" steel stock together by riviting them together and fitting it to the pivot axel and the lug that locked the original iron. It is secured by a cross pin through the lug made from a piece of a 16 common nail. it is secure but can be taken apart easily if needed. I have not yet finalized the wood for the for end but it will be small and as simple as I can make it. So it fires , it snaps open when you want it to, it ejects the fired hull right over your shoulder. And it was cheap! I think I have a good rabbit gun here.

[Lostinidaho]

Perfect project.

[Texas by God]

Keep us posted, interesting project.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Scrounge]

Pretty cool project! It would look silly with a nice walnut stock on it, but maybe a nice piece of Douglas Fir would work well! ;) You could do a pistol-grip Monte Carlo stock for it with the perfect comb and drop and pull lengths.

[frkelly74]

I would feel really bad if I messed up a nice piece of wood. 2X6 you can get at Menards.

[LAGS]

I used Douglas Fir or Poplar to make Trial Stocks.
They ended up as Pattens to use on a duplicator to make stocks out of Nice Wood.
But a few made from Poplar , did end up as Stocks on Rifles.
The Pine or Fir ones would have worked too.

[pietro]

.

Nice work ! ! :drinks:

Thanks for posting about it ! :)

.

[smithnframe]

Who made it?

[dverna]

Firing a 3" shell in a 2 3/4' chamber is a very dangerous practice. It will chamber fine but there is no room for the crimp to open into and pressure will go up significantly.

If you have someone you love shoot it, get a box of 2 3/4" shells.

[oldred]

Firing a 3" shell in a 2 3/4' chamber is a very dangerous practice. It will chamber fine but there is no room for the crimp to open into and pressure will go up significantly.

If you have someone you love shoot it, get a box of 2 3/4" shells.

I was going to say the same thing, back when I was in HS (a hundred or so years back :sad:) a kid in our school got a face full of gas when a single shot (don't have any idea of what make) cracked the receiver around the firing pin hole allowing the primer to come out and the back of the case to split. He too was firing 3" shells in a 2 1/2" chamber, yes they fit in there but don't do it!

[frkelly74]

Noted, and I will not shoot any more 3" shells in it. I am planning on using 444 marlin brass to reload which are short and do not have a crimp to open up and cause problem. I mentioned the chamber length because i had never seen a 410 2 3/4" chambering designation nor have i ever seen any 2 3/4" 410 shells. I thought it odd. So I tried it and got away with it apparently, and won't do it again. 2 1/2" shells are about 3 times as expensive as 12 ga AA shells as noted when I was in Meijer yesterday. I will have to look at the receiver to see who made it. Are there any suggestions on getting a mild rolled crimp over the card I plan to use over the shot column?

[pietro]

Are there any suggestions on getting a mild rolled crimp over the card I plan to use over the shot column?




It's a bit tedious, but when using .444 Marlin brass, fireform it sans solid boolit (a wax boolit is OK) in the .410 chamber using Cream of Wheat, deprime/load, use an overshot wad or gas check - then crimp in place with a .45 Long Colt die.


.

[LAGS]

I have used a drop of glue to hold the overshot card in the brass cases.
And I have see guys use a Hot Tip Glue Gun to put a light dab of glue to hold the card in place.
But if I start loading brass shells again I will use a crimp die like suggested or make one.
Check with the Cowboy Shooters that use lots of Brass casings for their matches.
I think it was 303 British cases that I made some mandrals to straighten out the case neck and then reloaded them for my single shot .410.
The cases came out around 2" long if I remember correctly..
The rim was a little thicker , but the headspace on my shotgun was loose so they worked

[gumbo333]

Maybe some maple lumber? You should be able to measure the chamber length pretty easily.

[LAGS]

I built a butt stock and Forend for an old H&R 12 ga.
Out of pieces of Mahogony I got at the hardware store and laminated them together to get the thickness I needed to build the stock.
Came out looking really good.
I do the same with Poplar or Maple to make patterns for a duplicator.

[BigEyeBob]

303 british brass is also good for 410 brass cases.

[richhodg66]

Could you describe the process for how you drilled the stock bolt hole and kept it straight? I picked up an old Stevens (pre-Model 94) .410 that needs a new stock. Stocks for the 220 and 94 look like they could be modified to fit, and a forend from a .30-30 model 219 snaps right on, so I think I may be able to work something out, but worst case and I have to make a stock, that stock bolt hole looks like the hardest part.

[LAGS]

My trick was to, Take the buttstock hunk of wood , Drill the hole in the block First.
Then cut the stock to shape using the hole as the reference to line everything up.
I usually start off by marking the block of wood where the hole would be.
Drill halfway thru with a 1/4" drill bit done from one end but only halfway thru.
Then drill the rest of the hole from the other end till you have a hole all the way thru.
Then hog out the hole with a long 3/8" bit till it was one long hole all the way thru.
Then use that hole to set it up to drill out whatever larger diameter Counterbore hole you need in the buttplate end of the stock for recessing your stock bolt..
I just find that it is a lot easier to be drilling a hole the length of a Square block of wood that you can clamp up secure , than a Shaped stock unless you make up some kind of jig.
I use a drill press to start the holes from either end , then use a electric hand drill with a longer bit to connect the two holes.

[frkelly74]

Well, it was by eye following pencil lines drawn on the outside of the rough cut stock. The blank was clamped between two 2x4 blocks with the butt flat on the floor. I stood on the 2x4 blocks to hold the whole thing steady. I got a 3/8"X 16" wood boring bit from menards which will almost reach deep enough, I had to rig an extension adapter to drill the last inch. Also note that the stock bolt was missing so I used a chunk of 1/4" all thread for which I had to re-tap the hole in the receiver , 1/4"x20. When assembled, the bolt stuck out the end of the butt and I cut it to length and counter bored from the butt with a 3/4" bit. A nut and washer hold things together.

[mazo kid]

I have made a bunch of 410 brass from .303 brass; turned out well. I don't crimp the over shot card in place as it will crack after a very few shots. I glue those wads in place.

[flounderman]

You can drill the hole from both ends, that way the end holes are right. I also like using a threaded rod and a nut, instead of the original bolt. This works if you don't have access to precision machinery