Might buy this pickup; any weak areas to look for?

[Idaho45guy]

Drove down to the family cabin last week and took a shortcut on a rural road and spied a really nice pickup at the end of a farmer's drive with a cardboard "for sale" sign in the window.

It's one of my favorite years for Ford pickups, and it was incredibly clean. Price seems fair.

My only hesitations about it are...

1. It's 2wd. Now, around here, 2wd pickups are hard to sell. They are useless in the winter, and nearly useless in the mountains. But, I will be using it for a daily driver on a rural highway and for occasional light hauling duties to the dump and home improvement store. I really don't need 4wd. Besides, I will still have my new 4Runner for going into the mountains and for camping.

2. It's got 134k miles. Low miles for a `95, but still enough that it could be about due for a major repair.

3. It's got holes in the bed where a 5th wheel hitch was installed. Meaning, it was used for towing something relatively substantial. Might mean accelerated wear on the transmission and rest of the drivetrain.

No idea what motor it has. It's a `95 F-150 XLT supercab longbed and it about as clean as you're going to find one. Absolutely beautiful pickup.

Price is $2900. NADA price is between $1800 and $3100. If I like what I see, figured I'd offer $2500 cash and walk if he didn't take it.

My question is, are there any weak areas I should be concerned about with these pickups? I had a `92 F250 supercab 4wd that was flawless and never gave me any issues. Great pickup.

No salt on the roads around here, so no issues with rust. The dang thing looks nearly new...

261161

261162

[metricmonkeywrench]

Can’t help on the truck, but the 5th wheel mount may have been used for a gooseneck hitch setup for a horse trailer.

[cwtebay]

I bought a new one off the lot in January '95. (Had a 302 in it if I recall) Owned it for 3 years. The biggest problems I can recall was that the heater was TERRIBLE!! And that I had to replace the power steering pump 2 or maybe 3 times. I recall the dealer saying that these were common problems with that model year.
Sidenote - my first vehicle was a '68 F150 two wheel drive - I took that thing everywhere! A set of chains took me wherever I ever needed to go! I've owned around 20 +/- F150's and they all have their issues.

p.s. always figure out why someone has a two wheel drive in mountain country - especially with a gooseneck in the bed. Those miles could have been easy highway miles pulling a 1200# camper - or it could have been pulling heavy loads over mountain passes. Transmission issues or drivetrain problems from people treating a half ton like a Freightliner are ubiquitous in used trucks.

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[Petrol & Powder]

As 1995 it could have the 300ci, (4.9 L) straight 6 engine, which is bullet proof. As a XLT model and with a fifth wheel hitch at one point, it was likely equipped with a 302 or 351. Diesels were available it those years, so that's also a possibility.

A 25 year old truck with 134K miles (assuming that's the real mileage) probably wasn't used much. I would really take a good look for signs of higher mileage (worn pedal covers, replaced seats, axle seals leaking, etc.)

Vehicles that are driven occasionally and sit a lot tend to have exhaust systems rot off, water in fuel systems and mice love to live in the interiors.

All of that being said, at $2500 it could be a cheap spare vehicle that can haul trash, carry gas cans to the station, pick up lumber, etc.
If it needs any major parts (like say 4 tires and a transmission) I would walk away because at $3500 it is no longer a bargain.

[NyFirefighter357]

https://www.edmunds.com/ford/f-150/1995/consumer-reviews/

https://www.carsforsale.com/1995-ford-f-150-for-sale-C122605

[richhodg66]

Nice looking truck. I'd have expected rust for that age anywhere there's snow?

[Three44s]

Though it is not a substitute for 4 wheel drive, a 2 wheel drive changed to a limited slip or a more aggressive differential is fairly effective. A lot of 2 wheelers came out from the factory already with enhanced diffs ... that is a possibility.

I would however question the use of a 150 being used as a fifth wheel puller. I would look at just how much trailer they pulled with it and how they loaded it vs what transmission it has.

You might offer to do a trans filter and oil change just to see how dark it is and what is in the filter.

Three44s

[Handloader109]

Brother still has a 92 with diesel in it and works fine. I would bet it might have a diesel as a fifth wheel couldn't tow much with the 6 cylinder, nor even the gas 8 would be limited.
It predates the powerstroke which I think was '96. So no badge for a diesel would be expected. Looks good, even $2900 isn't bad no matter.

[PNW_Steve]

A note on the fifth wheel hitch.

I have them in my trucks. I use mine like most 5er owners. Either one big trip a year or a handful of short ones. The most miles I have racked towing my trailer in one year is about 6000 miles. The added wear from towing is negligible. Last year I made around six trips towing and covered less than 1000 miles total.

Don't let the fifth wheel hitch run you off. Just do your due diligence.

[lightman]

I don't know about ant specific issues with that year model. Two red flags for me would be the word "farm" and the hitch. Around here farm trucks get used hard and everyone knows to not buy a used one. Heavy use in extremely dusty conditions, extended idle times, hauling loads not intended for a half ton truck, ect. But its hard to hide farm use. A really good detail shop can get rid of most of the dirt but look in hidden places for lots of dirt. Inside the gas tank filler door, inside the gas tank filler itself, under the hood, down in the defroster vents, ect. Pull the transmission dip stick out and smell the oil. On the other hand this truck may have been the Farmers Wife's grocery getter and Kiddy hauler! If so, it may have led a charmed life.

And as suggested, find out what kind of trailer they pulled and how much they pulled it. And is the hitch a gooseneck ball or a 5th wheel hitch. If its a gooseneck ball theres no telling what was hooked to it. If its a 5th wheel hitch it was probably a smaller trailer. A larger trailer would have had too much tongue weight for a half ton truck.

It looks like nice clean truck.

[lightman]

Erased double post.

[Chad5005]

95 will be 4.9 6 cyl,302 or 351w.diesels only came f250 and up,transmission could be 5spd,e4od automatic.if automatic look on the end of shifter nob for overdrive light flashing when driving,if flashing trans needs work.heater cores are terrible about leaking or clogging up.no heat.other than that they were great trucks

[downzero]

A 5th wheel hitch of any kind in a 1/2 ton truck is going to be VERY hard on the rear axle and suspension. I would significantly reduce what you're willing to pay as a result.

Personally, I find those Fords to be excessively complicated under the hood. They are much harder to work on than GM trucks from the same era.

If it runs and drives good for $15-1800, you can probably get a lot of years out of it. I would NOT pay $2500 for a 25 year old 1/2 ton truck with a 5th wheel hitch having been installed in it. The 8.8" Ford rear diff is actually pretty solid, but not when massively overloaded with the pin weight of a 5th wheel.

For reference, 1/2 ton trucks generally have 1200-1500 pounds of payload, which includes the total weight of all passengers and anything carried by the truck. My 5th wheel has 2200 pounds of pin weight when empty, which means that the truck you're talking about would be 100% overloaded if all I did was hitch my empty 5th wheel to it and get inside.

[MT Gianni]

In my area an F150 as a farm truck would be a daily driver to town and back or the wifes for parts runs. I would expect even in N Id or E Wa a 350 would be on any farm. As such I would also suspect the 5th wheel hitch was to a first or second owner, not the current one.

[Winger Ed.]

I'd like to see the gooseneck trailer it pulled, and look at the hitch and make a value judgement on how worn it looked.
If it looks and rides well, I'd buy it for $2500.

Then, change every fluid on it from one end to the other, the fuel filter, grease the front wheel bearing,
change the belt & pulley wheels, and maybe the shocks, cab mount rubber bushings, brakes & tires.

I've done that with a couple of older trucks, then had almost none of the 'mid-life crisis' problems for years to come.

[Petrol & Powder]

$2500 for 95 F-150 with 134K miles wouldn't scare me.
$2500 for a 25 year old truck that had 200K miles on it with an instrument cluster that showed 134K would bother me.
$2500 for a 25 year old truck that needed 4 tires, brakes, belts, ball joints, U-joints, a wiper motor, alternator, power steering pump and exhaust pipes from the manifolds back.........would really upset me.

Caveat Emptor

[Mk42gunner]

I've had three 95 F-150's. One six cylinder two wheel drive, two 302 4x4. The first one my daughter wrecked 22 days after we got it, black ice on a bridge.

If it has a five speed the clutch slave cylinder is a weak point. It is concentric so you have to pull the transmission to replace it. Also there are three rubber plugs at the rear of the shift tower that should be replaced with metal ones while the tranny is out, otherwise the tranny fluid can seep out unnoticed and then you have real problems.

Check the front spring towers for corrosion. Some of them were riveted on with space between the frame and the tower, allowing dust salt moisture or whatever to sit there and cause problems.

I don't really like automatic transmissions, but the one I am driving now works without any problems.

The PSOM (speedometer to you and me) can go bad and cause all kinds of drivability issues.

The heater has worked okay on mine, the AC tends to leak refrigerant.

Bottom line is they are good trucks. I gave $2200 for the one I have now, an Eddie Bauer 4x4 regular cab long bed with 136K miles.

Robert

[Idaho45guy]

Prices on used pickups are pretty ridiculous around here. Anything under $5k is typically worn out garbage, so finding a really clean one for $2500 is very rare.

I've been wanting a `66 F-100 for years, but every time one pops up in my price range, it is in pretty bad shape. I almost bought a nice clean `69 F-100 last year that was driveable and nice original condition for $5k.

I've pretty much given up on finding a classic truck as a daily driver for under $8k. Ridiculous.

[Bwana John]

F250, 4wd with 460 gas or 7.3 diesel, yes. Otherwise wait.

[Petrol & Powder]

Prices on used pickups are pretty ridiculous around here. Anything under $5k is typically worn out garbage, so finding a really clean one for $2500 is very rare................
.

If the norm in your area is $5K + , all the more reason to scrutinize a clean one at half that price.

[Winger Ed.]

Prices on used pickups are pretty ridiculous around here. Anything under $5k is typically worn out garbage, so finding a really clean one for $2500 is very rare..

Whatever you decide, and its a good deal, there is little to be gained by waiting.

I had a buddy that thought & thought, hemmed & hawed,,,,
Several times when he finally made up his mind- it was gone.

[Idaho45guy]

261199

The only other truck in the area in my price range is this beater. It's a `90 F250 4x4 in pretty rough shape with the 460 and either 151k miles or 251k miles. Owner doesn't know. $2000.

[Texas by God]

Take the blue one for a test drive. Your eyes ears and senses will let you know if it's worth $2,500 or not. We bought a 1995 F150 with the 5.0 liter motor for $3,500 back in 2005. All three of my children learned to drive in that truck and each one drove it until they bought their own vehicle. It had 150k miles on it when I bought it, when it blew a piston 3 years ago it had 287k miles on it. It was a two-wheel drive, and I had a gooseneck hitch on it and pulled a 30 ft cattle trailer more times then I can remember. A neighbor gave me $600 for the truck with a bad motor and I was glad to get it. My family got our money's worth out of that truck, it was a good one. It's funny about four-wheel drive, before the 1980s a four-wheel drive pickup was a rare thing. I wonder how we got along without them?

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[Mica_Hiebert]

Id question the authenticity of the milage, other than that 2500 is a decent price. Id test drive it and see if anything screams at you to run. If it has dual gas tanks the valve that switches between tanks can give you problems and be expensive to replace. Also if it towed a 5th wheel I would find out how heavy and how frequent.

[Petander]

My only hesitations about it are...

1. It's 2wd. Now, around here, 2wd pickups are hard to sell. They are useless in the winter, and nearly useless in the mountains. But, I will be using it for a daily driver on a rural highway and for occasional light hauling duties to the dump and home improvement store. I really don't need 4wd. Besides, I will still have my new 4Runner for going into the mountains and for camping.



Sounds like my reasoning to buy a nice Chevy Van last year. I also have a 4Runner,an old but fine working one. Never had a Van before. So I bought it.

The 2WD Van ended up being useless all winter,I really hated looking at the poor car under all that snow,waiting for summer. 2wd is not happening here in winter. I just sold the van last month and got a Suburban instead, 4wd limited slip 5.3liter Z71.

I would love a nice Van or a Corvette but the fact is we have six months of mud/ice/snow/thaw. And I ride motorbikes in summer so no need for a "summer car"...

But: get whatever you want,you seem to like that truck so that's a good reason. Only then you will know.

[abunaitoo]

It's a ford.
I wouldn't touch with a mile long pole.

[jonp]

I'd be careful of anything that old that was used to tow substantial weight. Farmer probably horses, hay or cows to auction. Not sure id go that price

[kenton]

Any thing from the 60's is by definition 50 to 60 years old so either it is going to be clapped out or someone spent a bunch of time and money making it nice again. Plus everyone else wants a sweet old truck to cruise around in, which helps keep the price up.

Here in Illinois that truck would sell in a heartbeat just because of it's lack of rust. I personally would buy that truck if it fit what I was looking for assuming it test drove well. It is a 25 year old truck so it will likely have some issues but that is the cost of a 2500 dollar truck. As for the transmission, they can always be rebuilt if it comes to that. I assume living in the mountains there are some reputable local transmission shops.

You could always ask the seller what was pulled with that truck and get a feel if they are feeding you a line.

One other note, my dad had the gm equivalent of that truck when I was young and the extended cab plus long bed makes for a deceptively long truck when you are maneuvering in a parking lot or driving downtown.

[Petrol & Powder]

There's a possibility that blue 95 is priced low because it is a 2WD truck and is 25 years old.
There's another possibility that the seller priced it low because he wants a potential buyer to bite quick and not look real hard.

As I said earlier, at $2500 it could be a decent deal. The mileage (134K) is suspiciously low for a 25 year truck, particularly one out west. That's about 5300 miles per year. That $2500 isn't a good deal if that truck will need over $1000 in repairs shortly after you buy it.

[Petander]

Can you get a Carfax report with VIN code?

Sometimes too low mileage is just that,too low to be true. I once found my car had a clone twin in Canada.

[MaryB]

If that was here I would snap it up! The rust free body alone is worth the $2500! I m still on the hunt, my truck is toast, intake cracked, the #1 cylinder hydrauliced and broke the cam bearing caps over that end... runs but makes a racket and will self destruct... also blew #1 plug out fo the head so threads are stripped(Ford 5.4 Triton issue....), 151k miles, rusted out bed, cab is rusting through in spots.. my truck is not worth repairing...

[Petrol & Powder]

If that was here I would snap it up! The rust free body alone is worth the $2500! I m still on the hunt, my truck is toast, intake cracked, the #1 cylinder hydrauliced and broke the cam bearing caps over that end... runs but makes a racket and will self destruct... also blew #1 plug out fo the head so threads are stripped(Ford 5.4 Triton issue....), 151k miles, rusted out bed, cab is rusting through in spots.. my truck is not worth repairing...

I know where you can get a 1995 F-150 in Idaho for about $2500.........:mrgreen:

[Winger Ed.]

I know where you can get a 1995 F-150 in Idaho for about $2500.........:mrgreen:

My Grandmother would say, "Oh, now that's just tacky, tacky, tacky".

[Petrol & Powder]

My Grandmother would say, "Oh, now that's just tacky, tacky, tacky".

I know, and your grandmother is right.

[Mk42gunner]

As an added note about used pickup pricing, I saw one on the way home last night so I stopped to look.

A two wheel drive 89 F-150 for $1100. It had an automatic, and the sign said a 352 which is obviously wrong; it might have a 351W? But without actually looking who knows?

I have long thought the best way to get a good rust free truck was to fly to the southwest and buy one there then drive it back, not that I have ever had time to do that when I needed a new vehicle. With the current stay at home stuff that option is kind of out the window.

Robert

[Winger Ed.]

I have long thought the best way to get a good rust free truck was to fly to the southwest and buy one there then drive it back,

I worked for years in the automotive body shop supply industry.
I had a customer who had family in Chicago.

He'd buy and rebuild a late model, 'totaled', luxury car every year or so.
He'd drive it up there, have his vacation, sell it, and fly back.
That paid for his whole vacation, and he even made a few bucks.

There is a dealer auto auction here for used and wrecked cars.
The parking lot is full of transports with Northern state's license plates.
They buy cars & trucks here, then take them home to sell at obscene profits.

A buddy running a junk yard told of a guy who would come down and buy just pick up beds.
When he got a big trailer full, he'd go back up North and sell them to the wrecking yards there.

[megasupermagnum]

The early 90's Ford trucks were some of the best trucks ever produced. It is astonishing to me how they went from that to the late 90's, early 2000's and just laid an egg, especially with the triton engines.

As for your truck in question it is a 1995, meaning it is an OBD-1 ECM. There is a trick to read codes, but if you want to look at actual data, you will need a real scan tool. The cheap code readers are OBD-II and wont work. All three gas engines were good engines. I'm not a huge fan of the 302 in a truck, but it is reliable. The 351W is great, but my preference is for the 300. The automatic transmissions are not bad, but nothing great. The manual transmission is the M50D-R2. It is a decent lighter duty transmission. If not used to tow obscene weights, they hold up great. They use an internal slave cylinder which is a PITA. Make sure that it isn't leaking. I'm not aware of unusual problems with the frame or axles. The front axle on a 4x4 is a TTB style, some people shy away from them. I've never had a real problem, only that some alignment shops might be less experienced in them now that Ford hasn't used them since about 1997. In 1995, they had 6 digit odometers, so unless someone purposefully changed it, it is real. The title may have mileage listed. I wouldn't be worried anyway. Provided care, there is no reason these won't go well over 300,000 miles. Most of us in the rust belt seem to give up on them due to rust well before they truly wear out. Plenty of examples of 300k+ miles here. The only quirks I can think of is the goofy fuel pump inertia switch in the passenger footwell that can leave you broke down if you don't know about it. Just reset and away you go. On 4x4's the TTB front axle, the radius arm bushings often cause a clunk when going over bumps. They are not terrible to replace. The bushings on the axle themselves last much longer. The front axle shafts use U-joints, which I consider a great feature. They are often worn out. The two outer U-joints on the front are easy to replace, but the inner passenger side is a pain.

[samari46]

Definitly pull the oil stick from the tranny wipe the oil off on a white hand towel and check the color. Brown is no good. Do it a second time and smell the oil if burnt will have sort of a caramel smell. And check the underside for any leaks,especially valve covers. Oil usually drips or leaks out at the lowest end of the covers. And the usual,like tires,lights all of them inside on instrument panel and brakes,reverse you get the idea. And check brakes with the engine in gear engage the parking brake to see if it holds. Run the engine up a tad above idle speed if it holds ok,if it don't walk away. Frank

[William Yanda]

Only four, F and O and R and D, all together on the front, side and really big on the back.

[megasupermagnum]

Definitly pull the oil stick from the tranny wipe the oil off on a white hand towel and check the color. Brown is no good. Do it a second time and smell the oil if burnt will have sort of a caramel smell. And check the underside for any leaks,especially valve covers. Oil usually drips or leaks out at the lowest end of the covers. And the usual,like tires,lights all of them inside on instrument panel and brakes,reverse you get the idea. And check brakes with the engine in gear engage the parking brake to see if it holds. Run the engine up a tad above idle speed if it holds ok,if it don't walk away. Frank

If I walked away from every vehicle that the parking brake did not work, I never would have owned a vehicle.

[jonp]

If that was here I would snap it up! The rust free body alone is worth the $2500! I m still on the hunt, my truck is toast, intake cracked, the #1 cylinder hydrauliced and broke the cam bearing caps over that end... runs but makes a racket and will self destruct... also blew #1 plug out fo the head so threads are stripped(Ford 5.4 Triton issue....), 151k miles, rusted out bed, cab is rusting through in spots.. my truck is not worth repairing...

Ive got a 2004 F150 with the 5.4 Triton id be willing to part with. [smilie=1:

[jonp]

If I walked away from every vehicle that the parking brake did not work, I never would have owned a vehicle.

Parking brake wouldnt bother me any. Most likely a rusted cable

[MaryB]

Ive got a 2004 F150 with the 5.4 Triton id be willing to part with. [smilie=1:

That needs cam phasers I bet LOL and new timing chains, guides, tensioners... plugs break off when trying to remove them...

[jonp]

:cry: your on to me.

[MaryB]

Parking brake wouldnt bother me any. Most likely a rusted cable

Standard old Ford issue, don't use the parking brake, it will probably hang up LOL

[MaryB]

:cry: your on to me.

Don't know what Ford was thinking with the Triton engines...

[megasupermagnum]

Don't know what Ford was thinking with the Triton engines...

They do make for good humor. There are people out there that will defend them to their grave.

The other good one of the late 90's was the 4.0 SOHC. They took the 4.0 OHV, a great old school engine with no major problems. They slapped a bizarre head and intake combo on it. Now here is where they really mucked it up good. They put not one, not two, but THREE long timing chains on it with a jackshaft in the middle. One in the front, another in the front to a bogus "counter balance" that did nothing, and one in the back... so you have to pull the engine when it fails. What a disaster of a design.

As I said, late 90's-early 2000's, Ford trucks outright failed. If you have one of these engines, replace your chain tensioners regularly. Ford recommends every 70k miles. If any of them get loose, the chain destroys the guides. Once that happens it might as well be a trip to the junkyard. As for the Triton, I'm told they are possible to change spark plugs with a special Ford tool. I did it with a socket once. No room at all, fight the whole way. I wouldn't do another for a close friend if he paid me.

[Plate plinker]

If it seems fine I would buy it and drive it until the wheels fall off. Same as Mary the salt claims all our older vehicles around these parts.

[Idaho45guy]

Decided to spend the money on publishing my novel. Hopefully that will eventually pay for a used pickup.

[megasupermagnum]

Decided to spend the money on publishing my novel. Hopefully that will eventually pay for a used pickup.

What did you write?

[Freightman]

I have an old F250 1989 with a 351W in it a C6 transmission and 410 rear end and it has a true 125K on it as I bought it 4/13/1989
with 6 miles on it. Other than maintenance it has no problems tempted to trade it till I went and priced a new one, I will be buried in this one before I pay what they want for a new one . Buy it they are good.

[Idaho45guy]

What did you write?

A murder mystery based on a USFS LEO as the central character. I have a couple of professional writer friends that pushed me to write a book since I'm apparently gifted in that regard. I'm already a published writer in a trade magazine and pounded out this novel for fun. They tell me it's really good, but it's nearly impossible to get a book deal without self-publishing.

Researching it now and looks like it will cost me around a couple of grand to get in paperback and e-book format on the major distributor websites.

Mailing out the manuscript tomorrow to a professional editor.

[jonp]

Don't know what Ford was thinking with the Triton engines...

Me either or that they continued making them after realizing what a bad idea they are.

[jonp]

The story of my truck. Cam phasors were changed by previous owner but no timing job for some reason. Guide broke, chains slipped and jumped time, bent rod. Over $2,000 to fix. If I were to buy another Triton, fat chance, and it ran great the first thing I would do would be to price a timing job into the buying price and immediately do one with new phasors, water pump, high volume oil pump and switch out the plastic guides for metal ones. My biggest mistake was not researching that engine/truck enough before buying as I hate vehicle shopping so much I just saw it, test drove it and bought it. Wish I had bought another Tundra.

At least SWMBO has forbid me from buying another one.

[MaryB]

What I am running into is what i can afford... and that means either those year Fords with the Triton 5.4(most common here) or the 4.6 that has the same intake problems... not a chevy fan but going to look at a GMC Envoy...2003, high miles but reading up on that engine they are pretty bullet proof to 300k miles if they were maintained. $2500 the Vortec 5.3L V8, looks pretty rust free but need to go over it in person.

[megasupermagnum]

What I am running into is what i can afford... and that means either those year Fords with the Triton 5.4(most common here) or the 4.6 that has the same intake problems... not a chevy fan but going to look at a GMC Envoy...2003, high miles but reading up on that engine they are pretty bullet proof to 300k miles if they were maintained. $2500 the Vortec 5.3L V8, looks pretty rust free but need to go over it in person.

The late 90's and early 2000's Chevy trucks are actually pretty good. I've heard of some rust problems, but you can't fault the rest of the truck. Certainly the 5.3 chevy is a great engine. As much as I liked the 350, the 350 vortec sucked to work on. The 5.3 is popular for a reason.

On the other hand, I don't think the envoy was all that good, infact the blazer and trail blazers were pretty bad.

[jonp]

What I am running into is what i can afford... and that means either those year Fords with the Triton 5.4(most common here) or the 4.6 that has the same intake problems... not a chevy fan but going to look at a GMC Envoy...2003, high miles but reading up on that engine they are pretty bullet proof to 300k miles if they were maintained. $2500 the Vortec 5.3L V8, looks pretty rust free but need to go over it in person.

You might think of a Ford of similar year with the 5.0 if you can find one, I have read they are pretty good. As for the Triton, if someone had enough sense to do the cam phasors and timing it might be a good bet as people have been scared off of them. I can say that the 5.4 is a very strong engine. I have the Towing package and pulling 5-6,000 lbs is like it isn't behind me. The downside is the mileage. It drops fast into the 12 mpg range. Best empty around 17-18 highway