Grip finish, urathane? Uberti cattleman, strip it....

[GSP7]

Anyone know what the finish is Uberti puts on their cattleman grips?

Some kind of poly urathane ?

[GSP7]

Uberti, Uberti, Uberti,

[Wayne Smith]

At a guess that's exactly what it is.

[USSR]

I believe they use Poliuretano.:)

Don

[bigted]

Crud comes right off with paint remover. I will say this tho, WEAR RUBBER GLOVES when handling this stuff. I burned my pinky's with this strong chemical. But after application and allowing it to work for a few minutes ... that redish crud finish will scrape right off revealing the wood. Wash it after getting that finish off. Then begin sanding and wetting and sanding till all the grain and whiskers are smoothed off. I did not go below 220 grit paper and another hint is taking duct tape and put it on the sandpaper back and you will have a nice sturdy and lasting strip of sand paper that won't tear nearly as easy as paper alone.

I refinish mine with plain old boiled linn seed oil. After several coats rubbed in with my fingers ... they come out pretty nice ... WAY better then those factory finish.

[GSP7]

no sanding :roll:

:coffee:

[derek45]

CITRA STRIP will remove it.

might take a few applications

https://i.imgur.com/IZAnuis.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/obKhSmS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zPcbMNm.jpg

[derek45]

https://i.imgur.com/G08THxA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/plSHhT6.jpg

[Buzz Krumhunger]

Try soaking the grip overnight in a sealed glass jar filled with acetone. That has worked well on grips I’ve tried it on. I use Watco Danish Oil to refinish them.

[35 Whelen]

Love that .44 Special Derek.

Yeah it's some sort of urethane that's a pain to remove.

I recently stripped the grips on my Uberti 32-20. I refinish walnut with BLO cut with pure turpentine with no stain. It literally takes months of first, wet sanding with BLO and wet/dry sandpaper to fill the pores, then hand rubbing coat after coat of the oil in, but in time a gorgeous finish will be had.

Here's a before/after shot of a Uberti Sporting Rifle I refinished-

https://i.imgur.com/c6cTPAo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XXQLO8h.jpg

Hard to believe it's the same piece of wood.

35W

[Greg S]

I've used lin speed, true oil (oil) and Watco and Formby's tung oil/poly all win good results. The lin speed was slower than .... to cure. Get them sanded up to 320-400 then start the oil and sanding process to fI'll the pores with 600, 800 and 1k. The add coats as nessessary and allow to soak in for awhile and wipe off. I generally finish with 1500 and 2 k. If you want a warm finish, wipe after each coat. For gloss, quit sanding at 1200 and just apply and let dry. Once dry, buff out any imperfections with a 0000 steel wool 3m pad and reapply. On your first 2-3 coats cut about 25-40% with mineral spirits and the final coat about 10-20% to get it to lay out. If you want to dull it alittle, get some Birchwood case stock sheen conditioner (rotten stone) which is like a liquid rubbing compound.

Finishing these grips up on my vacation. Got another 2-3 coats to go on a free 'bonus' piece of Turkish walnut with Watco Oil. For final build coats, you want to use a clear united oil otherwise it will look murky from the tint in suspension in the dried layer of finish.

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[Greg S]

I've used lin speed, true oil (oil) and Watco and Formby's tung oil/poly all win good results. The lin speed was slower than .... to cure. Get them sanded up to 320-400 then start the oil and sanding process to fI'll the pores with 600, 800 and 1k. The add coats as nessessary and allow to soak in for awhile and wipe off.