Forcing cone issue?

[JimB..]

This is a model 57-1. There is a bit of flame cutting, but my bigger concern is the marking in the forcing cone. Haven’t shot it yet, in fact it in little pieces at the moment. Is this an issue that I need to address now, or only if there is an accuracy issue? Can it be fixed, or is a new barrel needed?

260822

[tazman]

Looks to me like it needs polished smooth. I would try it first to see if there really is a problem that needs to be addressed.
I have a couple of revolvers that look a little like that but shoot great without issues.

[megasupermagnum]

Don't worry about it until you decide it is a problem. It likely is not.

[Greg S]

Shoot it but might have a problem with cast. If there is not alot of rounds through it and it appears factory, I'd let them fix it.

As long as the cone is within spec and some room to spare, a light clean up cut and a polishing should do the trick. If it is borderline in size, try polishing out the tool marks. If oversize, it'll require the barrel to be set back a turn, the cylinder gap reset and forcing cone recut.

[Texas by God]

To me that looks like it could use a Lewis Lead remover with the forcing cone tip, then see what’s up.

[shooting on a shoestring]

So typical of modern manufacture Smith, Ruger even Colt.
Yep that’s a rough cut forcing cone.
Most folks shoot jacketed bullets which can tolerate rough forcing cones.
Sometimes cast boolits do ok with rough FCs.
Sometimes they lead badly in the FC and immediately after it.
Shoot it and see.
I’ve recut several of mine with 11 degree tooling from Brownells.
Didn’t see a whole lot of improvement in accuracy but it did solve a couple of leading problems.
That probably says a lot about my shooting skills...Damn.

[Tokarev]

I second the Brownells tool suggestion. I used their 22 cal one on my lined project and it cut a very smooth cone, going by hand and gently. It was a gun for jacketed bullets, so no idea if it would solve the leading problem.

[DougGuy]

If you have disassembled it already, you are skilled enough to recut the forcing cone in your shop. 4D rentals has the complete kit they rent fairly cheap, and they have an excellent video showing how to install and use the tool. I don't use the brass lap to polish as this tends to collect and redistribute tool marks, I use a 3/4" x 1" piece of worn thin fine scotchbrite, put a hole in it, put it on the rod and snug the brass lap, force it into the newly cut forcing cone and turn it a few turns, polishes it out super nicely.

Personally, I would choose 9 degrees if I could find a decent cutter. Mountain Guns have 8.5 degree forcing cone angles afaik, the 11 degree cutter does not match the angle at all. I had PT&G make me a 9 degree cutter but they made it so thin that after two uses it shattered, months of waiting produced a useless 18 degree cutter and ended my association with their products. Guess someone couldn't read text or photos with instructions.

[rintinglen]

The 11 degree Brownells forcing cone cutter set up is your friend in cases like this, but before you spring a c-note plus buying tools, shoot the darned thing. It may work just fine. One thing I have learned over the years is that individual firearms, no matter how made or who makes them, will vary, sometimes markedly, and there are darned few indicators that can be completely relied on to predict how the blasted thing is going to shoot.
Shoot, analyze targets, THEN fix. (If necessary);)

ps. Thanks for the scotch brite tip, Doug.

[Pressman]

A little better view of the cone. I have never seen one that rough. I would recommend re-cutting it.

260830

[DougGuy]

A little better view of the cone. I have never seen one that rough. I would recommend re-cutting it.

260830

Great improvement on the pic. This is why I like a 9 degree cutter, it will recut the front of the factory cut without making the back, where the fire ring is, any bigger. OP if you do decide to rent the cutter, try not to enlarge the cut so much it begins to take metal away from the fire ring (the flat part at the end of the barrel).
"
Yes this one needs recut in the worst sort of way. No amount of shooting is going to "fix" this one.

[JimB..]

Thanks all, and apologies for not thinking to adjust the brightness/contrast of the original pic.

I am generally a handy guy, the gun is disassembled, and I could probably do a passable job recutting this, but I haven’t the experience to be confident that I can execute it. I’ve wanted a 4” model 57 for a while now, I’d rather not screw it up.

So what options? I could send it back home and ask them to evaluate and fix it. No idea what I’d get back or when I’d get it, but free shipping. I’ve had Mark at Pinnacle High Performance do some very good work for me on a couple revolvers, although not recutting a forcing cone, and his prices are great but shipping sucks in a huge way. Douguy, as I recall you aren’t setup to handle firearms and I’m not sure from your post above if you’re currently tooled up for this work.

Suggestions, S&W or private gunsmith, and if gunsmith then who?

[DougGuy]

I have the kit, not the FFL. I have not replaced the 9 degree cutter that broke but I have the 11 degree.

May I suggest you go to 4D and watch the video, it's really easy. You could do as well as anyone with the kit after watching the vid. It feels at first like you are chewing the guts out of the barrel, then suddenly it smoothes out. Here is where you stop and remove the tool, look and see if it has cut to the top of the rifling.

If you do send it back, you could request it be cut the same angle as the Mountain Gun, this would be the best case scenario, and one that the kit cannot produce..

[JimB..]

I have the kit, not the FFL. I have not replaced the 9 degree cutter that broke but I have the 11 degree.

May I suggest you go to 4D and watch the video, it's really easy. You could do as well as anyone with the kit after watching the vid. It feels at first like you are chewing the guts out of the barrel, then suddenly it smoothes out. Here is where you stop and remove the tool, look and see if it has cut to the top of the rifling.

If you do send it back, you could request it be cut the same angle as the Mountain Gun, this would be the best case scenario, and one that the kit cannot produce..
Thanks, I’ll take a look.