Recomendations on Flash Hole Deburring Tools?

[DonMountain]

I have not deburred flash holes in any of my brass up to this time. But since I seem to have more time in the loading room, I am considering purchasing a "Flash Hole Deburring Tool". So, what do you-all recommend? I see some of them offered that seem to take a lot of extra parts for each caliber. And others that don't. Whats the advantages for each?

[country gent]

They are a easy tool to make Don. A small center drill ( number 1 or 0 ) I believe. a poece of 3/16" cold rolled round stock and a handle or knob. I cut the center drills in half so one becomes 2. Drill a hole the size of the center drill in one end of the 3/16 round stock to the shank depth of the half center drill. and deburr it. I use HSS cobalt center drills. Solder or glue the drill in place. Turn up a tapered bushing with a 3/16" hole in it set on shank of rod and glue handle on. I have a couple made with a 2" lever type handle to spin it and a knob. like on a case trimmer. These work really well. A stop collar can be added to set depth of cut also.

THe lever type does require a little differnt grip but is cast and easy to use and more comfortable for my wrists.

[shawnrmartin75102]

I have not deburred flash holes in any of my brass up to this time. But since I seem to have more time in the loading room, I am considering purchasing a "Flash Hole Deburring Tool". So, what do you-all recommend? I see some of them offered that seem to take a lot of extra parts for each caliber. And others that don't. Whats the advantages for each?Primer pockets, or actual flash holes?
2 sizes, for the primer pockets, large and small.

( Unless you have a 50cal BMG, in which case I want to be your new best friend.)

Flash holes, I have no idea. I would find an aceyelene torch cleaning tool. ( Think set of very small round files.)

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

[shawnrmartin75102]

Primer pockets, or actual flash holes?
2 sizes, for the primer pockets, large and small.

( Unless you have a 50cal BMG, in which case I want to be your new best friend.)

Flash holes, I have no idea. I would find an aceyelene torch cleaning tool. ( Think set of very small round files.)

Sent from my XT1635-01 using TapatalkOught to add: I just use a Lee tool for the pockets.

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[unclemikeinct]

This old school Lyman works fine on US made brass. The Lapua stuff needs a smaller drill point. 260118 Uncle Mike

[Winger Ed.]

I'd recommend the Hornady one with the stepped pilot that Midway carries.

[Pressman]

What Uncle Mike said 8-)

[DonMountain]

Primer pockets, or actual flash holes?
2 sizes, for the primer pockets, large and small.

I have a set of primer pocket reamers, and primer pocket cleaner tips (Pacific/Hornady Brand) that work pretty well. So I am looking for the "Flash Hole Deburring Tool" to do the inside of the cases. I have noticed a lot of cases have burrs around where the flash holes are in the interior of the cases, evidently from punching them from the outside during manufacturing.

[Three44s]

This old school Lyman works fine on US made brass. The Lapua stuff needs a smaller drill point. 260118 Uncle Mike

That is the one I use now. I bought a hand full of 10-32 coupler nuts and keep them to screw onto the threaded portion of that tool (handle screws on and off of the deburing stem) as well as others and then I have a hex nut of some length to tighten my cordless or corded drill or drill press chuck onto.

Goes fast!

Three44s

[lightman]

I have a couple, one from K&M and another from Sinclair. They both work ok but the K&M seems to clog up more. I use them in a cordless drill.

[GSP7]

That Lyman one looks good , because it has that universal case mouth diameter cone do-hicky.

The RCBS one I have has different size case mouth do-hickeys you have to swap on and off

[Greg S]

+1 for Countrygent or Sinclair/Brownells. Like the idea for the hand crank CG.

[Three44s]

The limitation with the Lyman is that your cases must be uniform in length, even the degree of inside mouth chamfer needs to be uniform as well. If any cases are already belled, they all need to be and done the same also.

The interchangeable pilots if not tapered would greatly reduce that need. The downside there however is time spent times RPM times the amount pressure equals the beveling depth and one can certainly over do things.... and you can not grow it back!

The best system would ideally index off the bottom of the inside of the case, but I just trundle through with my Lyman and do a uniforming case length trim, primer pocket uniforming, primer pocket swage etc, etc. all in the one series of operations and be done with it.

Three44s

[jsizemore]

I bought a Midway Deluxe flash hole deburring tool about 25-28 years ago. Similar to the K&M and Sinclair. Did all my brass for silhouette for years and still works like brand new. I use Lapua brass in some guns and their flash holes are drilled, not punched.

[Three44s]

I bought a Midway Deluxe flash hole deburring tool about 25-28 years ago. Similar to the K&M and Sinclair. Did all my brass for silhouette for years and still works like brand new. I use Lapua brass in some guns and their flash holes are drilled, not punched.

I have a bunch of Lapua in 6mm BR and my tool is not small enough to enter the flash hole without enlarging them but as you point out, being drilled rather than punched. If I get around to finding a tool that will work with them, I may bevel those but they are pretty uniform already.

Three44s

[GWS]

I use RCBS's Trim Mate flash hole tool......but I trim my brass first so case length is the same. I posted a video of it in use today in the Lee APP thread showing it and a uniformer and the swager used together. The video was to demonstrate how much faster the APP swager might be....using the case feeder.

Video: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?397463-Lee-APP-press&p=4875142&viewfull=1#post4875142

[FLINTNFIRE]

I have a rcbs and another I got from a bench rest shooter both work the lyman shown above is good , I have a old primer pocket uniformer back when midway sold the tool it is the nicest I have seen , hardly use them any more . But it is a worthwhile project for something to do . I would order the rcbs tool from amazon or make one

[country gent]

The last batch I made I set the center drill in so the end of the rod was the stop. and since the flutes were inside the rod carefully ran the flutes back with a die grinder and small wheel matching the rod to them. stops at inside case head and no plugging. Was a little more work but made a much nicer tool.
The next batch I may even spring for carbide center drills :-D .

With a sharp tool starting you feel a ragged cut starting this is the burr sharp rough edge being removed it then smooths to a steady force then lightens as the stop engages the head. Its amazing when you pour out the freshly deburred case the amount and size of chips you see.

Check your tool if the flutes are inside the shaft it will plug and pack with chips 2 ways to fix 1) with a small fine file or small dremil point work the flutes back into the shaft for a smooth transition. 2) fill the opening to the end of the shaft with epoxy. use a fine wire to work it in to complete fill. This will keep chips from catching there but is temporary as the chips will erode the epoxy out slowly.