S&W 1937 Contract Revolver (1917) Question

[Jkrem]

Gentlemen,
I just purchased a revolver listed here in swapping and selling that is supposed to be missing some parts. I believe what I’m getting is a S&W 1917 N frame US army model revolver that was sold under contract to Brazil in 1937. What I can really use right now is a good expanded parts diagram for this pistol, and I can’t seem to find one browsing the web. If there are any S&W 1917 folks out there who can point me towards a parts diagram, offer advise, or tell me I’m a dumb**** for even attempting this, I would appreciate your help and comments. Please be gentle....

Jim

[SwissShooter]

Check on Ebay as there are folks selling exploded drawings from old American Rifleman. Other large frame S&Ws from that era are probably almost the same. S&W 1917s are always out there for sale. Join proxibid.com and search. I just checked and found 9 for sale.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

You are correct about the S&W 1917 and the Brazilian 1937 being one and the same, and in fact to a large extent the Brazilian contract guns were built from parts left over from WW I. A quick check of my books dosen't show an exploded diagram specifically for the 1917, but they are virtually the same as any S&W N Frame revolver made from the 1920s-1960s, and there are many diagrams for other, very similar models.

[Walks]

Just be care buying parts from Numrich Arms/GunParts.
I bought a hammer for a 1917 from them a few years back. They sent me a modern hammer.
Called to complain, they told me I had the right part. Refused to listen.

[Outpost75]

What specific parts do you need? There are a number of us here who have parts bins with pre-war S&W parts.
Agree with the caution on Numrich gun parts...

If I can help I will send... If you are a skillful machinist or know somebody who is, it is possible to modify some modern S&W parts to fit the old guns, but it is a labor of love.

[Dutchman]

This is what you want:

http://dutchman.rebooty.com/temp/TM9-1925.pdf

The Brazilian S&W is not the same as the U.S. Model 1917 Revolver. The Brazilian is an off-the-shelf 2nd Model Hand Ejector made in 1937. Heattreated cylinder, different rear sight notch, polished blue, hammer & trigger markings. Its certainly modeled after the M1917 but is not "identical". Some of the Brazilian contract were made from left-over M1917 parts which confuses alot of people.

https://images53.fotki.com/v1657/photos/4/28344/9895637/nuswb1-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/firearms/nuswb1.html)

https://images15.fotki.com/v587/photos/4/28344/9895637/nuswb7-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/firearms/nuswb7.html)

https://images12.fotki.com/v213/photos/4/28344/9895637/nuswb8-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/firearms/nuswb8.html)

https://images56.fotki.com/v1601/photos/4/28344/9895637/nuswb9-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/firearms/nuswb9.html)

https://images14.fotki.com/v1643/photos/4/28344/9895637/photo7-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/firearms/044-jpg.html)

https://images49.fotki.com/v174/photos/4/28344/9895637/photo-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/firearms/sw1937b-jpg.html)

[MUSTANG]

I have one of the Brazilian Contract guns in the safe. Need to get it out and do some shooting with it again this spring. Funny thing is it did not shoot well at all with GI Hardball .45 ACP. Cast Lead 230 Grain Round nosed shot better; but not exceptionally well. For Grins - I loaded some 250 Grain .45 Wadcutters cast in a Lee Mold (Do not see this mold luted by Lee anymore; bought mine back in the late 1970s.

My Brazlilian 1937 Contract gun went from OK to shooting 3" six round groups at 25 Yards with the wadcutters. As I recall; takes a bit of tinkering to determine the seating depth of that wadcutter into a .45 ACP case. The case just isn't designed for the boolit. But boy; could it shoot. Of course it takes the Full Moon or 1/2 moon clips for this revolver using .45ACP --Never did have any .45 Semi Rim to use in the revolver.

[ddixie884]

Good job Dutchman. Also since these guns have large throats 230gr RN tip and don't enter the barrel straight. Heavier WC or SWC bullets have a longer bearing surface and enter the barrel more squarely. this makes them shoot better. JMHO-YMMV

[35 Whelen]

Gentlemen,
I just purchased a revolver listed here in swapping and selling that is supposed to be missing some parts. I believe what I’m getting is a S&W 1917 N frame US army model revolver that was sold under contract to Brazil in 1937. What I can really use right now is a good expanded parts diagram for this pistol, and I can’t seem to find one browsing the web. If there are any S&W 1917 folks out there who can point me towards a parts diagram, offer advise, or tell me I’m a dumb**** for even attempting this, I would appreciate your help and comments. Please be gentle....

Jim

I have two of the 1917/1937 Brazilian revolvers and have recently gone completely through them, as well as a 3rd Model Hand Ejector. As such, although I'm not expert, I'm fairly familiar with the innards and can possibly help. When I recently bought the Hand Ejector, it came to me looking like this:

https://i.imgur.com/xDY66nC.jpg

But I took it apart and corrected the problem.

I had another 1917/1937 and it was oh so accurate...

https://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/308Scout/1917%20Smith%20and%20Wesson/1917%20SampW%2025%20yds_zpshhpoh870.jpg (https://s60.photobucket.com/user/308Scout/media/1917%20Smith%20and%20Wesson/1917%20SampW%2025%20yds_zpshhpoh870.jpg.html)

....but had the tiny rear u sight which was very difficult for my 57 year old eyes to use so I sold it and found a couple with the somewhat better square notches.

If you need a photo of the inside or would like to see one disassembled or anything along those lines, just say the word.

35W

[salvadore]

I had a Brazilian 1937 refinished recently and told the Smith that I would reassemble. My problem was finding a how the hand lever fit in. I think I found an internal picture of a K frame that was set up much like the 1937 N frame.

I also learned that the throats on my shooter run to .455, Just about what my 454190 lyman runs. extrapulated a load, always makes me nervous, but haven't put it on paper.

[El Bibliotecario]

I realize that in this Age of Bibliophobia my suggestion may draw sneers, but the Kuhnhausen shop manual has everything anyone needs to detail strip a Smith and Wesson.

https://www.amazon.com/Revolver-Shop-Manual-Covers-Actions/dp/B000MRFUWY

[StrawHat]

The Brazilian edition of the S&W 1917 model was made in two separate batches for a total of 28000 pieces. The first batch was delivered in 1937 and was built using parts from the 1917 Commercial Model. The second batch was delivered in 1946(?) and built using leftover WWI parts for the 1917 Military revolver wherever possible. The 1937 revolvers were shipped in cardboard boxes inside of wooden crates. They were also delivered in time to go to war when the Brazilians went to Italy during WWII to help the Allies.

Great revolvers that indeed are the basic 1917 revolver

Kevin

[ATCDoktor]

I picked this one up about 10 years ago for very little money:
https://i.postimg.cc/MHwp7SqL/9-F7-D8-A8-C-49-E4-4-C0-B-B931-F62019-C7572-B.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Somebody had it parkerized at some point and shaved a little off the front sight but it shoots pretty good with my handloads (but just a skosh high).

[Jkrem]

So with the help of TM 9-1925 from Dutchman, I disassembled the pistol and it appears I need the following parts. I’ve used the part names from the manual:

1. GOT IT Screw, side plate crane retaining (need 3)
2. GOT IT Slide, rebound
3. GOT IT Spring, rebound slide
4. GOT IT Hand
5. GOT IT Lever, hand
6. GOT IT Spring, hand lever
7. GOT IT Mainspring
8. GOT IT Swivel, Butt
9. GOT IT Pin, butt swivel
10. GOT IT Stirrup, hammer
11. GOT IT Pin, hammer stirrup
12. Strut, hammer old style with wings
13. GOT IT Spring, hammer strut
14. Pin, hammer strut
15. Pin, hand lever

So, if you have a bunch of S&W 1917 parts and can spare some, please Pm! Note based on comments here, I don’t plan to buy from gun parts Corp. some of these items are available on eBay, but I will try here on this thread and in swapping and selling first. I’m not in any big hurry. Thanks.

What a cool project.

[StrawHat]

That is a heck of a list. Some parts may come paired up with things you don’t need.

I agree with the thoughts on Numrich/Gun Parts Corp, they usually had all the parts I did not need.

Jack First is a good supplier. There are others but they have slipped my mind.

Kevin

[Outpost75]

+1 on Jack First.

[35 Whelen]

I would go to ebay first. There are always tons of S&W parts on there. For example-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Smith-Wesson-Blue-N-Frame-Thumb-Release-Cylinder-Release-Rebound-Slide/264681894743?hash=item3da0453357:g:JTsAAOSw4TVeFjr a

35W

[skeettx]

http://www.hollowpointmold.com/wondersight/

[Jkrem]

Update - looks like 3 parts left thanks to wcn435.

[Jkrem]

Ok, one part left! Who has one? A hammer strut....

Gun Parts Corp lists it as Sear, 1917

260928

[skeettx]

Gun parts has them

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/374980

[Jkrem]

Thank you Skeettx. I will order one but am still looking in the event it never comes.

[Jkrem]

Looks like I now have all the parts, or they are on the way. The “new” side plate screws I bought leave something to be desired but they are functional at least. The hand I have fully turns the cylinder if you don’t gingerly pull the trigger or cock the hammer. Reminds my of my model 94 Winchester, you don’t baby it.
I’m not sure if it’s a 1917 or n frame hand, but will see how it works once I have the hammer complete. More to come.

[drstrangelove]

I have one of these. Loading 4gr of Clays and HITek coated SWC .452, I've seen excellent accuracy, however the gun is shooting low. I'm having to hold half the front sight above the rear sight to bullseye. Anyone ever filed the front sight down on one of these guns? Not sure how much collector value would be detracted.

[35 Whelen]

I have one of these. Loading 4gr of Clays and HITek coated SWC .452, I've seen excellent accuracy, however the gun is shooting low. I'm having to hold half the front sight above the rear sight to bullseye. Anyone ever filed the front sight down on one of these guns? Not sure how much collector value would be detracted.

You might try bumping it up to 4.3 grs. of Clays. That is the load I use with a cast 230-ish gr. RN. Velocity averages 833 fps with an ES of 27. This load is a bit over Hodgdon's maximum, which oddly, shows a pressure of less than 17,000 CUP. As I recall this load shoots a bit above the sights for me, but is very accurate.

https://i.imgur.com/XR9MhMdl.jpg

Don't go by POI on this target, My aiming point is typically a smudge or dark spot.

35W

[drstrangelove]

276451
12 rounds.
Thanks for the advice. I will try that. The gun certainly likes .452.
The .451’s were pretty awful and leaded the barrel.

[Eddie Southgate]

5 gr Red Dot / 200gr LSWC loaded in *- AR cases works like a champ in my gun . 200 gr seems to be its sweet spot but 225 and 250's are not far behind.

[drstrangelove]

5 gr Red Dot / 200gr LSWC loaded in *- AR cases works like a champ in my gun . 200 gr seems to be its sweet spot but 225 and 250's are not far behind.

If I could find any autorim brass I would try it. Thanks for the tip.

[ddixie884]

200gr will probably shoot low as the sights are regulated for 230gr Ball at 825fps +or-25fps.............