Deburr primer flash hole inside new Starline brass (handgun cart)

[GSP7]

Do you deburr primer flash hole inside starline handgun brass ?

https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/l_749003822_1.jpg

[TNsailorman]

I deburr all flash holes, pistol, revolver or rifle. Not sure about accuracy benefits but it do save a decapping pin now and again. james

[ReloaderFred]

Looking at the five gallon buckets of handgun cases in my shop makes me shudder at the thought of even thinking about deburring any of them. My answer is NO, I've never in 57 years of reloading ever deburred a handgun case. Not even when I was shooting on the Department Pistol Team did I ever consider doing that.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[No_1]

I do on occasion and mostly rifle at that but now that I have more time on my hands.....

[Valley-Shooter]

No, not worth the my time.
I just looked at my new 10mm and 44 mag brass from Starline and the all look pretty much the same inside.
I know bullseye shooters used to prep their brass flash holes. I don't need that extreme accuracy potential.

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[GSP7]

I just debuured flash holes of my new starline .44 spl. brass .... I could feel there were some big burrs in many of them

[toallmy]

My good rifle brass gets the works , but I’m not that good a shot with the short guns . They wiggle around quite a bit .

[Gtrubicon]

I do all rifle

[mattw]

I do all of the cases for my bench guns, also uniform the primer pockets for them as well.

[gwpercle]

Never have in 50 years ...too late for me to start now .
But I'm not very anal or ocd about flash holes ...so I would say if you think it's good...Do It , ain't going to hurt anything and it will give you something to do during the Great Shutdown of 2020 .
Gary

[fguffey]

I've never in 57 years of reloading ever deburred a handgun case

I have never found it necessary to deburr a rifle case, I have the tools JIC but somehow the cases with burrs have escaped me.

There is a remote chance the bevel does something to aid the flash. I do have a flash hole diameter gage.

F. Guffey

[ioon44]

I deburr rifle cases if I trying for max accuracy but never pistol.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

For shooting past 150 yards, slight accuracy gains MAY be noticed for rifles, 100 yards and under not so so much. The closer the range, the less velocity variation plays into impact point. Deburring flashholes is to improve powder ignition consistency by the primer flame, hus reducing velocity variation. The longer the range, the greater velocity variation affects impact point. Defense or hunting gets the flashhole deburred to insure it open and clear. I have seen military ammo missing flashholes - LC76 5.56 - of course they were misfires. Flashholes, dimensions, other qualities in more modern brass have improved a great deal from the 70's and 80's.

[wizard93]

I've deburred all my rifle brass, and I did some pistol brass (IMI) for my 44 Magnum. I never bothered with other pistol brass (9mm, 40, 38, etc.).

It definitely won't hurt anything if you're wanting to do so.

[Mike Kerr]

Thanks to our Moderator ReloaderFred[/U who in Post No 3 of this thread summed the subject up very well. Additional thanks to [U]gwpercle in Post No 10 who referenced OCD disorder and Anal Retentive disorder. We enjoy a useful and productive hobby but we need to recognize the difference between practical and just being "reloading loonies".

[lightman]

I do rifle but not pistol. Well, for my bolt guns but not for my AR or H&K's. I can't prove that it helps but it makes me feel good.

[country gent]

For my match ammo I uniform primer pockets and deburr the flash holes on all brass. I do this when its new. I find better numbers on extreme spread and Standard Deviation on the loads. I do cut a uniform bevel in the cases also.

I think it would be hard to see the improvement at 100-300 yds but 600 out you do. But then anything that gives you confidence in the load gives an improvement.

Its not a big chore and I have made my own tools using a center drill. no driver handle but a lever type handle and a couple quick spins its done. On some cases its amazing the amount of burr cut out.

[Scrounge]

Thanks to our Moderator ReloaderFred[/U who in Post No 3 of this thread summed the subject up very well. Additional thanks to [U]gwpercle in Post No 10 who referenced OCD disorder and Anal Retentive disorder. We enjoy a useful and productive hobby but we need to recognize the difference between practical and just being "reloading loonies".

There is nothing wrong with being crazy, as long as you're not also being stupid.

[Preacher Jim]

Do the full course on my Bench rest rifles. Not on handgun or plinking brass.

[GSP7]

very telling.... :guntootsmiley:

:popcorn:

[pertnear]

I deburr flash-holes & uniform primer pockets on rifle brass but never on pistol brass. Life's too short...........

[saturn]

Debur rifle brass only,and also uniform primer pockets. Never noticed any gain doing pistol brass so I don't do anything to them.

[Three44s]

All of my metallic cases get the treatment. I do not care what names get thrown at the practice or my choice.

I do not shoot buckets of ammo at a single setting but I want consistency. If I am shooting lots of rounds then it is more likely handgun and rimfire.

My experience with the practice began with varmint cartridges and wanting to squeeze groups to the minimum as most were likely drawn to it that do the practice here.

Later, I was curious as I was loading some red dot in 38 special but firing in 357 I believe and wanting better clean up. I noticed a much cleaner burn with debured cases than non-debured and that caught my attention.

Still later, I was working HS6 powder and 38 cases with my Ruger SP101 357. The goal was to raise my point of aim and I wanted a slower dwell time per my gunsmith’s recommendation to achieve that goal rather than filling the front sight down with 125 gr JHP.

Raising the POI was a success and to counter dirty cases I debured the flash holes.

Next was my experimentation with the 44 Mag. and HS6 and the RCBS 250K. I was loading according to the Hodgdon’s #26 which lists a range from 10 to 12 grs. When I settled on 11.8 gr I broke out the chrono and was getting standard deviations of just 7 FPS.

So now I was at a cross roads. Do I just debur certain handgun and rifle brass and try to keep it sorted or just set up for all of it by getting efficient? I chose processing everything that was my sphere of usage.

There are two kinds of cases in my spread, processed and yet to be done. The “yet to be done” is brass I have not previously loaded.

When I grab a case it may get a more difficult to ignite powder or it may be stuffed with an easy one and I do not want to worry about pressure spikes in begining with undebured brass and then encountering a debured one when using fast powders. I do not want to create any variation either. I also want my powder to deliver bang for the buck as well.

I could have easily drawn the line at cartridges like 9 mm etc. but even there I switch to slower powders from time to time and the other issue is uniform ignition with smaller charges of powders that may be more sensitive to position in the case.

And that sums up my .02 worth

Three44s

[Randy Bohannon]

During my performance engine building days the thought that highly polished valves and cylinder head and piston top surfaces were/are able to spread products of combustion quickly and evenly over a smooth surface better than a rough one. The same applies in a cartridge , less obstruction in the path of the primer flame path more consistent extreme spreads and standard deviation .

[leadhead]

When I was shooting hand gun silhouette, (shot for 22 Years) I did all my handgun brass.
Don't know if it helped or not, but I won my share of matches.
Denny

[Minerat]

I do all my rifle cases from 300wby to the 17HH. No pistol.

[Three44s]

I guess it can be summed up by comparing the terms “reloading” vs. “handloading”, it certainly fits with varmint cartridges but less so with handgun.

With my 788 Remington in .22-250 and my Liberty M77 V in .243 deburing shaves a consistent 20-25% off my groups and you only do it once!

With my revolvers I am sure for most loads I get more internal satisfaction knowing I have taken those cases to their best form and I have few losses of empties.

An auto loader is somewhat different as you are always struggling to find that last hand full of fired cases and the benefit is less tangible.

But one thing cuts across all the various cartridges and that is with exceptions to some brands of brass they are all punched through from the pocket to the interior and that leaves a gaude awe full goober for the flame to navigate around, and it will lay this way then another the next shot.

Three44s

[mdi]

I have a lot of time for reloading stuff since I retired, and I occasionally do some things considered a waste of time by some, but I ain't that bored (deburring handgun brass flash holes)...:shock:

[Three44s]

I have a lot of time for reloading stuff since I retired, and I occasionally do some things considered a waste of time by some, but I ain't that bored (deburring handgun brass flash holes)...:shock:

LOL!

I chuck my tool in a drill and it takes longer to pick up the next case than it does to start it in the tool and perform the operation. But I have no qualms either way. My point is that while I could have been fine with just some handgun brass debured, it takes longer to sort it out of the non-debured cases than it did to just run everything through and not worry about causing an artificial inconsistency.

Three44s

[SwissShooter]

I uniform primer pockets, run a # drill in and then deburr (using a cordless drill)---- BUT only for serious long range rifle steel banging. OR you can just buy Nosler brass that is already prepped.

[Taterhead]

Heck no. I've never de-burred a flash hole on a handgun case. Starline cases arrive pretty well finished, and I've never noticed a "hanging chad" around the interior of the flash hole.

[Winger Ed.]

I do rifle brass except the 5.56 for a AR.
I've never done the flash hole or trimmed any handgun brass.

[Dave C.]

As A bullseye shooter I am always looking for more accuracy. Don't waste your time. Use it to dry fire.

[kayala]

I've bought a lot of once fired 7.62x39 brass and after breaking 3 decapping pins I've invested in Lyman deburring tool :)

[Three44s]

I've bought a lot of once fired 7.62x39 brass and after breaking 3 decapping pins I've invested in Lyman deburring tool :)

That is another plus as you create a “funnel effect” for your de-capping pin to enter the flash hole.

Three44s