Lubrication of a Ruger Single Action

[Bazoo]

Well let's talk lubrication of Ruger single actions, Blackhawks, super Blackhawks, and single sixes.

I normally put a drop of oil in the pawl slot, the cylinder stop, the base pin, and one on the hammer aimed at the little plunger. Normally 3in1 or hoppes oil.

I was thinking "maybe I should use grease on the ratchet?" So what if anything should I do different?

Thanks,

Bazoo

[Walks]

I use Ballistol, all those places and the both ends of the cylinder, inside trigger slot and hammer strut.

NM Blackhawk - .357Mag - 6 1/2" bbl. Bought new in 1974. Close to 50,000rds, at least 30,000rds were Lyman #358156GC over Max 2400 in .357Mag cases.

Haven't replaced a single part. Probably could use a new bolt.

My pair of Real Vaquero's in .45Colt STS 7 1/2" bbl. Probably close to 10,000 a piece.
Lubed same way.

Cleaned on a semi-regular basis.

Got other Ruger SA's, lubed same way.

[nicholst55]

I oil the base pin and gas ring, and apply a heavy lube like TW-25B 'grease' to the ratchet. Oil on the other places you mentioned.

[megasupermagnum]

I wipe it down with a patch damp with gun oil. They don't need any more than that. Grease could become a problem, and won't help anything.

[Bazoo]

Thanks for the responses.

Walks, what do you mean bolt?

[GhostHawk]

ATF for me, Dextron II or III.

Wipe on a thin film and after 30 seconds wipe it off.

Nothing there to collect dust. Grease can collect dust and debris and turn into something that eats metal instead of protecting it.

The first time I worked over my Heritage .22lr it sounded and acted like a brand new pistol. Cylinder rotated smoother, sounded like a sewing machine in perfect adjustment. Click click snick snack and hammer is cocked, cylinder is locked and all effortless and smooth.

Since then it has become my #1 choice for gun oil inside and out.

A drop or 2 on a towel works great for outsides. Same on a patch, cleans out the dirt, leaves bore shiny and clean. But without effecting where it shoots.
Use in moderation.

[smithnframe]

I use Ballistol, all those places and the both ends of the cylinder, inside trigger slot and hammer strut.

NM Blackhawk - .357Mag - 6 1/2" bbl. Bought new in 1974. Close to 50,000rds, at least 30,000rds were Lyman #358156GC over Max 2400 in .357Mag cases.

Haven't replaced a single part. Probably could use a new bolt.

My pair of Real Vaquero's in .45Colt STS 7 1/2" bbl. Probably close to 10,000 a piece.
Lubed same way.

Cleaned on a semi-regular basis.

Got other Ruger SA's, lubed same way.

What is a "Real" Vaquero?

[Thumbcocker]

I grease the ratchet and put a tiny amount on the front of the cylinder where the base pin will get it on the way in. One droplet or gi gun oil in the cylinder stop cut in the frame, one droplet in the front of the hammer to hit the plunger and one droplet in the slot at the back of the hammer. I use a needle oiler. Nothing magical about gi oil I just got a good buy on a quart of it years ago. I do like gi rifle grease on the ratchet and base pin. Others swear by STP. My most used revolvers feel like two greased ball bearings in a leather bag when you cock them.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I just use Ballistol .

[Minerat]

5-30 Mobile 1 in a needle oiler.

[Tatume]

Although I can't find the citation, John Linebaugh recommended putting a drop of oil on the cylinder "nose." He said that even the thinnest layer of oil would reduce battering between the front bearing surface of the cylinder and the frame. In the loads that Linebaugh works with, battering is a concern.

[MT Gianni]

Every three or four years I lube the base pin with STP oil. It will cover the front of the cylinder with plenty of lube. I remember 44 man talking about it so I tried it and it works for me.

[Carrier]

I used to use oil and grease in them. I also shoot Blackpowder in them as well and would end up with a mess. After taking Driftwood Johnson’s advise I use Balistol only in them and on the heavy side. Clean up is a piece of cake now.
I have always been one that uses more lube than other's though.

[Uncle Grinch]

What is a "Real" Vaquero?

Maybe he means real as opposed to imaginary!

[Bazoo]

I appreciate the conversation everyone. I never would have thought of lubing the front of the cylinder to help with battering. Thanks for that tip.

I generally wipe the soot from and lube my revolvers after every firing.

As a side note, I can't stand the smell of ballistol.

[Bazoo]

No blackpowder here except for muzzleloaders, so no worries with that.

[tominboise]

Real Vaquero is referring to the first generation of Vaquero built on the full size frame. As opposed to the New Vaquero, which is built on the new lighter flattop frame.

[loveruger]

Marvel myster oil love it !

[DougGuy]

I lightly lube the base pin with whatever oil is in the squirt can, and a single drop onto the cocked hammer so it runs down on the hook and trigger/sear.

[ShooterAZ]

Every three or four years I lube the base pin with STP oil. It will cover the front of the cylinder with plenty of lube. I remember 44 man talking about it so I tried it and it works for me.

I use STP on the base pin as well. It works better than anything else I have tried.

[nicholst55]

Although I can't find the citation, John Linebaugh recommended putting a drop of oil on the cylinder "nose." He said that even the thinnest layer of oil would reduce battering between the front bearing surface of the cylinder and the frame. In the loads that Linebaugh works with, battering is a concern.

This is the same reason for greasing the ratchet. When I say that I apply grease, I mean a very small dab, which is cleaned away and replaced frequently - not a big gob of grease so it can gum everything up! This is the procedure advocated by most of the top revolversmiths, FWIW.

[Texas by God]

Bazoo, I've used 3in1 oil on the same points you mentioned for all the Single Sixes and Blackhawks I've ever owned. Works still.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Walks]

Bolt:

That thingy at the bottom of the cylinder opening that comes up to lock the cylinder in place.

You know : the "bolt "thingy"

What My Dad called it.

Real Vaquero's:

The first batch made on the NM frame. The ones with a 2 digit SN prefix. Hand Filling grips of Real Walnut. Available with 7 1/2" bbl's.

Not the reduced size ones that come with skinny cheap plastic things that Ruger calls grips. The ones with a reverse indexing pawl that allows the cylinder to
unrealisticly spin in both directions. The ones that while reduced in size are just a bit too big to fit into a COLT SAA Holster without stretching it out so a COLT "floats" in it.

GEEZ !!!
Don't youse Guys know "nuthin" ???

[alamogunr]

I am amazed that there are 23 posts and no one has posted a criticism of someone's choice of lube.

Post #4 doesn't really count. It came across as personal opinion.

[Ramjet-SS]

Anyone wonder how long that dab of lube stays on the nose of the cylinder with the blast coming from the cylinder gap?

I remember John telling this about the battering. The thing I always though about is increasing the surface area if that is real big problem. The cylinders were being made and line bored. I did this but after one or two shots that lube on the nose was gone. On the rear ratchet it’s different story no muzzle blast there.

[Tatume]

I had the same question. While at the range shooting maximum loads in my 44 Mag and 454 Casull revolvers I pulled the cylinders to look. Oil was present. It was thin, but it was there. It's easy to add a tad now and then too.

[littlejack]

I went out this Tuesday last, and shot over a hundred rounds through my Ruger SBH Hunter.
After receiving the piece, I inspected, cleaned and lubed it for its first range session. This would be my first shooting session with this particular revolver. While in the shooting process, I removed the cylinder several times, to check for lead fouling in the bore, powder residue in the chambers etc. While checking several times, I realized that with each firing, the blast was depositing bullet lube between the front of the gas ring and the frame. So, as far as I'm concerned, this particular area is self lubricating with a mixture of beeswax, alox and lanolin. So, I lube this area during cleaning, as well as the other friction areas, and am satisfied knowing that lubricant is being deposited in a proper place while shooting.

[El Bibliotecario]

It is my biased opinion that people rhapsodize about their favorite lubricant, but the key issue is not what is used, but that that it gets done on a regular basis. Having said that, I use Lubriplate on the base pin and cylinder ratchet, because I find it a good lubricant--and because I have a lifetime supply.

[littlejack]

Nothing at all wrong with lubriplate.

[Scrounge]

It is my biased opinion that people rhapsodize about their favorite lubricant, but the key issue is not what is used, but that that it gets done on a regular basis. Having said that, I use Lubriplate on the base pin and cylinder ratchet, because I find it a good lubricant--and because I have a lifetime supply.

Which one? There are a bunch of different lubriplate greases. Just the multipurpose greases: https://www.lubriplate.com/Industrial/Industrial-Products/List/?categoryname=MultiPurposeGreases There are also a bunch of specialty greases, though I didn't see anything specifically for firearms.

Actually, IMHO, for most stuff, it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you use something. I do have a new favorite grease, myself. It's Mobil Polyrex EM. It's intended for use in high speed bearings for electrical motors. It's water proof, and rated for 750 degrees F. Ain't cheap, either. ;) I was using it at work, until last week, going to have to buy some of my own now.

[Petrol & Powder]

Bazoo, I've used 3in1 oil on the same points you mentioned for all the Single Sixes and Blackhawks I've ever owned. Works still.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

/\ I've seen many a gun that went more than a lifetime with not much more than 3 in 1 oil ! /\

The topic has been covered many times over but it is more important that guns are cleaned and oiled than what they are oiled with.

In my less prosperous days, ATF was my "universal gun oil" (I had unlimited supply) and it worked JUST FINE. If times were tough I know I could always go back to that.

I've seen guns that survived a lifetime that were cleaned with kerosene and lubricated with 3 in 1 oil.

Guns are not very demanding when it come to lubrication. That doesn't mean they should be neglected but it does mean we can overthink this issue at times.

[Petrol & Powder]

Like many of us, I have a shelf full of oils, greases, cleaners, solvents and gun care products.
However, for about 90%+ of my needs, I can get by with these four:

260126

Hoppes #9 for cleaning bores after shooting jacketed bullets (dissolves copper fouling and is a good bore cleaner)
Kroil for cleaning the bore after shooting lead. It works for some other cleaning jobs as well.
Clenzoil is my "all around" cleaner, lubricant, protection oil.
RIG for long term storage of ferrous metals.

Not pictured is Lubriplate or White lithium grease for high load sliding surfaces (like sears)

There are other products for other applications and EVERYONE has their favorites. There's nothing wrong with a little diversity in this arena.

If I had to go back to using ATF, it wouldn't bother me a bit. 3 in 1 oil is actually pretty good stuff too.

[daleraby]

Stainless Ruger Flattop Bisley .44 Special. EWL or Tetra grease on the ratchet, base pin and revolver "nose". Any kind of gun oil on other pivot points. Hoppes Number Nine for cleaning the bore and chambers, any kind of solvent similar to Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber for a general solvent "bath" once in a while. I clean and lube it at the end of each day if I fire the gun at all. A "Q-tip" with a 3/4" patch soaked in solvent works well for cleaning the cylinder pivot before re-greasing. Q-tips work well for applying the grease as well.

Fitted jags with cotton patches soaked in Hopes #9 is the way to clean it. Use a bore guide. Can't remember if it was Elmer or Skeeter who recommended a leather thong with a slit in it to drag a patch through the bore and/or chambers. This works OK, but brass jags work better for lead removal.

I routinely shoot fairly heavy "handshake with God" charges using 2400 and/or Green Dot and do experience some leading with cast bullets, though it hasn't become much of a problem as I seldom shoot more than a cylinder or two each day... if even that. Got some bronze wool ordered, but I have used a lead remover cloth in the past.

Blue Loc-Tite is a good idea for the ejector housing screw and also for the mounting screw(s) for your Bowen Rough Country rear sight. If the white outline gets dissolved by solvent, typewriter correction fluid will restore it. You DO have a Rough Country sight don't you?! ;)

[Electrod47]

Might as well chime in...Lubriplate has my vote for ratchet and base pin. Was a floorboy in a tool and die. shop as a kid...Lubriplate was the thing.

[Bazoo]

I appreciate everyones responses. I went back and read most of them again. I'm still trying different things to see what I like best. I haven't tried grease on my ratchet yet, but I'm looking to try that next I think.

I have been making sure that I put a thin film of oil on the cylinder front to help with battering. I do not load to "battering" levels but wear is cumulative.

[lightload]

Hoppe's gun oil used as Doug stated above. Any grease on the base pin.

[georgerkahn]

My choice, after barrel cleaning is to spray all with G96. To me, the stuff is amazing and then some. 320331 I also bought and use just a drop, as DougGuy does, with an oil that comes with a needle applicator called NanoOil. 320332
geo

[Bazoo]

I like the smell of G96, but I don’t use it myself yet.

Well a thread about Ruger Blackhawks ought to have pics; here is my New Model Blackhawk 44 Special with my favorite hunting knife.

https://i.postimg.cc/D0H7KJsT/8-A1-D9-E73-7-C87-4-D67-BD9-D-6-EF4-A5442-DA7.jpg (https://postimg.cc/H8wqwLBZ)

[Blkpwdrbuff]

Bazoo, how did you strip the grip frame and trigger?
I really like the looks of it and would like to get it done to a few of mine.
Blkpwdrbuff

[reddog81]

It is my biased opinion that people rhapsodize about their favorite lubricant, but the key issue is not what is used, but that that it gets done on a regular basis. Having said that, I use Lubriplate on the base pin and cylinder ratchet, because I find it a good lubricant--and because I have a lifetime supply.

I agree.

I've used XYZ lubricant for 10 years without issue, so that proves it is the best... The problem with that statement is that ANY reasonable lubricant will work. Used motor oil will work as well as any $10 per .1 ounce wonder oil. The lube requirements for any single action firearm are pretty simple.

[Bazoo]

Bazoo, how did you strip the grip frame and trigger?
I really like the looks of it and would like to get it done to a few of mine.
Blkpwdrbuff

The gun is a New Model Flattop Blackhawk 44 Special. It comes with a steel grip frame that's of the XR3 size. I've converted it to the XR3-RED frame by fitting a new stainless steel grip frame to the gun.

The original gun has a stainless steel trigger and hammer. The trigger is original, but the hammer has been replaced with a standard blued BlackHawk hammer. I did this because the ears on the replacement grip frame were smaller than the originals and the round portion of the hammer protruded too much to suit me, plus I happened to have a standard BlackHawk hammer. The hammer is an older one.

There was some changes to shape of the ears on Blackhawks in the 90s best I recall, with larger ears becoming the norm. The grip frame I bought was a brand new one from Midway.

[Blkpwdrbuff]

Thanks Bazoo,
My .41 mag is a 1980 vintage.
I see where Midway is out of the stainless steel frame.
I'll keep searching.
The trigger doesn't bother me if it's blued.
Was there a bunch of fitting required? Some frome the Midway site said yes others no.

[Bazoo]

It depends on what one's definition of a bunch is. The grip frame was proud on both sides on both the bottom and the ears by about 3/64". The ears were taller than the area they mate to by about 1/16", so they have to be shortened, and they also need to be profiled to match the hammer. This was the hardest part. It needed no fitting to get the screws to line up or to mate to the frame.

I have about 8 hours into fitting the frame so far, and it's not all the way done. It's closer than factory aluminum frames, but not perfect. I stopped after 3 or 4 days of tinkering on it for a break and haven't gotten back to it yet. I'd guess there is another 3-4 hours left to get it just right.

So was it a bunch? eh.. not really, it's just time consuming to not make a mistake. I attached mine with 2 or 3 screws, then removed it, filed a while, and reattached to check. After I got close, I started using sandpaper on a backer, and checked more often. After I got very close, I installed all 5 screws each time I check. It does wear your screws to install them 100 times, so if you don't like that look, get replacement screws right from the start. I've never replaced mine, but probably will at some point.

[Blkpwdrbuff]

That doesn't sound bad to me.
I'm retired and this will be a good project.
I just ordered mine from Brownells.com. Had a 15% off coupon, plus it was in stock.
Saved about $30 over Midway, and they were out of stock.
Thanks again.