How to remove a stuck cartridge

[HumptyDumpty]

Well, I am in a fix now. I have an Argentinian Mauser, rechambered (not by me) to 30-06 many years ago. To the best of my ability to tell, the chamber reamer must have been minutely undersized, because cycling is not easy, often requiring a good smack upwards on the bolt handle, to extract a round. I was in the process of locating somebody to take a look at it, but figured I would go ahead and develop a short-range pinking load, while waiting for an answer to my queries. That has proven to be a mistake; I now have a live round stuck in my chamber. The extractor jumped the case rim, deforming the brass in the process; even if I force the bolt back into battery, the extractor would have significantly less to grip. I've tried hammering it out with a dowel and a cleaning rod, but have only managed to push he projectile deep into the case. Since it is a relatively soft boolit, the lead is also deforming around the cleaning rod. All this to say, the case isn't budging. Any ideas?

[Scrounge]

Find/buy a 1/4" hardwood dowel longer than the barrel + chamber. Slide it into the bore of the rifle, take it outside and set it muzzle down on the end of the dowel. If any power falls out, clean it up. Use the weight of the rifle to drive the dowel into the cartridge case. Then bump it once, check for more powder, clean it up, and repeat until it comes out. Might take a while, but that should get it.

[725]

Ouch!. Perhaps standing the rifle on the butt (bolt removed), pour either Ed's Red or 50%/50% acetone/transmission fluid mix down the barrel and hope to (1) desensitize powder ~ primer and, (2) slick up the contact/tension between the breach and cartridge. Personally, I'd do it for a few days (or at least some time) before getting back to it. Driving it from the muzzle end has probably "squished" the boolit and now it conforms to a tight slug within the barrel. Don't use a wooden dowl or cleaning rod, but rather a near caliber sized brass rod. Put the bolt somewhere away from the gun. I'd expect that the liquid would not get into the cartridge, but worth the effort, anyway. Good luck. I guess a drill bit welded to a rod could open the lead bullet, but would be a touchy deal. (But, having been a bomb tech for 6 years, I can tell you skill and caution can overcome touchy deals.). Working on the wrong end of a smoke pole is a bad idea, and I don't recommend it.
I like the prior post idea best.

[HumptyDumpty]

I'll be near the hardware store later today, so I'll pick up all the supplies mentioned. I really have tno choice but to keep working at it; until this thing cartridge is out, the rifle can't be shipped to a gunsmith:( The good news is, this was the last round of my testing session, and I did find a nice, accurate load.

[waksupi]

I suspect you may have a ringed chamber.

[HumptyDumpty]

I suspect you may have a ringed chamber.
I am not familiar with that term. It's an m1898 pattern Mauser, if that helps.

[Scrounge]

Ouch!. Perhaps standing the rifle on the butt (bolt removed), pour either Ed's Red or 50%/50% acetone/transmission fluid mix down the barrel and hope to (1) desensitize powder ~ primer...

I'm not sure putting something flammable in there is a good idea. Soapy water would be safer, and less likely to cause other problems, except that it may expand the dowel enough to block exiting gunpowder. Brass rod IS a good idea, if OP has or can afford one. That would eliminate the swelling dowel problem. A shot of WD-40, Ed's Red, your 50/50 mix, or other penetrating oil on the head of the case from the chamber side might be helpful at making the case slide easier. Combine the brass rod, soapy water in the shell, and penetrating stuff on the head in the chamber, and the weight of the rifle alone might do the job if OP is patient. Spray or drip some every day with the rifle butt up, and resting on the rod, whatever material it is. This will not work if the boolit is mashed into the rifling, or outside of the case. It will work eventually if the boolit has been driven back into the case, though it may still require bumping now and again. And I forgot to mention that the bolt should be removed in any case.

Wasn't a bomb tech, but spent ten years as a photographer going out with them every now and again. Two years of that was several times a month with EOD at Eglin AFB's Armament Development and Test Center. Pro tip for photograpers: If the EOD guys are running, try to keep up! ;)

[ulav8r]

Repeat, DO NOT USE A WOODEN DOWEL. Brass is good or steel with a wrap of tape in 3-4 places to prevent contact with the bore. Put a tablespoon of penetrating oil down the muzzle and let it sit for an hour or two. Then insert the rod about halfway down the barrel and drop it. This allows keeping your hands away from the muzzle. Try several of these light taps before resorting to a hammer.

[Oily]

I removed one last year by using the method Scrounge suggested except I cooled the cartridge first by inverting a can of compressed air {like you would use to blow dust off your computer} and spraying into the chamber. The brass will cool way faster than the steel and you can then tap the cartridge out. I sprayed into the chamber until I could see condensation forming on the outside of the barrel. Cartridge popped out easily with one tap.

[gwpercle]

Nix the wood dowel...they can break and then you have two problems.
Use a close to bore fitting steel rod and strike it straight on after flooding the chamber with penetrating oil (50/50 acetone - ATF is one of the best) let soak 24 hours .
Gary

[Tatume]

I now have a live round stuck in my chamber.


I suspect you may have a ringed chamber.

A ringed chamber might be indicated if a fired cartridge was stuck, but that is not the case here.

[abunaitoo]

This is a tuff one.
Never had to do something like this.
Worse one I had was a broken case extractor, that had been pounded on, from both ends.
Owner had a broken shell in it, didn't have the correct caliber extractor.
Friend said "see if this one will fit"
OOOOOps!!!!
Took a while to get that one out without doing more damage.
Got it out, put the barrel back on, and it shot fine.
Did the firing pin hit the primer????
Dud primer????
Did any powder come out of the barrel????
If all the powder didn't come out, I'm be a little leary of pounding on it.
Is it a lead boolet stuck in the case?????
If it's a lead boolet, powder might be stuck under it.
I would remove the barrel to work on it.
Not all that hard to do.
More working room, and safer.
Stick it in the freezer, and try prying on the rim to pop it out.
If not drill a small hole next to the primer, and gently pry it out.
Once the primer is out, any number of ways to remove the case.
Kind of like a stuck case in a die.
Good luck. Be safe.

[beshears]

If bullet is not to far down in the case take extractor off bolt and shoot it. Then drive out empty case.

[M-Tecs]

Well, I am in a fix now. I have an Argentinian Mauser, rechambered (not by me) to 30-06 many years ago. To the best of my ability to tell, the chamber reamer must have been minutely undersized, because cycling is not easy, often requiring a good smack upwards on the bolt handle, to extract a round. I was in the process of locating somebody to take a look at it, but figured I would go ahead and develop a short-range pinking load, while waiting for an answer to my queries. That has proven to be a mistake; I now have a live round stuck in my chamber. The extractor jumped the case rim, deforming the brass in the process; even if I force the bolt back into battery, the extractor would have significantly less to grip. I've tried hammering it out with a dowel and a cleaning rod, but have only managed to push he projectile deep into the case. Since it is a relatively soft boolit, the lead is also deforming around the cleaning rod. All this to say, the case isn't budging. Any ideas?

You have two issues. First is the safe removal of a loaded round with a light charge and a cast bullet. Second is what is actually creating the issue?

First I would fire the round to remove it if it can be done safely??? It may not be safe if you pushed the bullet back too far. If you are using a load like 10 grains of Unique it would not be an issue. Other powders it could be very dangerous. What is you powder and charge weight?

If that is without the extractor that is not a big deal just be aware that without the extractor gas handling is decreased. You want to be on the side when you fire it or better yet is to tie if down and fire it with a string. If you are not comfortable with that do as Traffer suggested. Nitro based powder apparently can be set off with impact. 20 or 30 years ago a female brenchrest shooter was killed when a stuck bullet in a loaded round was being pounded out. They didn't have the bolt in and it was the case head/case that hit her.

Second a rough chamber or a ringed chamber will cause difficult extraction. Short headspace or a undersize chamber will cause difficult bolt closing. If you only have difficulty with bolt opening and or extraction most likely is not an undersize chamber. Bolt lug setback can also cause difficult bolt opening.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

There is a gunsmithing tool made specifically for this purpose. I'll do my best to describe it.....let's see.....first a collet is made. That is a piece of cold rolled steel about 4-5 inches long. It is drilled out in the center so it is hollow to about 2/3 or 3/4 of its length, and the sides are slotted so that the resulting fingers, 3 or 4, can be squeezed inward into the drilled out area. The tips of the fingers on the open end are machined so as to grip the stuck cartridge's rim or extractor groove as the case may be. A hole is drilled crossways through the middle of the fingers, side to side through the collet, and threaded for a small bolt, maybe a size 12 or a bit larger (diameter). This is so that when you fit the open end of the collet fingers around the rim or extractor groove you tighten the bolt and it squeezed the fingers together getting a very firm purchase on the rim or groove. On the other end of the collet, which is still solid, you drill a hole of about 3/8" diameter completely through the solid end of the collet lengthwise into the hollow center of the collet and thread it to fit a piece of all thread rod about 2 ft. long. Screw the rod into the collet, but not far enough to interfere with the fingers squeezing together. Now you need a heavy piece of steel or lead with a hole through the center that is bigger than the all thread rod. So, squeeze the collet around the cartridge rim/groove by tightening the cross bolt, screw the all thread into the other end of the collet, put the heavy steel or lead piece over the rod which is sticking out of the rear of the receiver. Screw a couple of substantial nuts onto the end of the rod to stop the travel of the heavy sliding piece of metal which becomes a pull hammer and whack the pull hammer against the nuts on the end of the rod. The stuck cartridge will usually come out after just a couple of whacks. Making one of these tools isn't as complicated as describing it--and maybe you can find a picture or drawing of one somewhere. I would hesitate to use some of the methods described, and think you'll likely just make the problem worse. Good luck with this problem.

[M-Tecs]

There is a gunsmithing tool made specifically for this purpose.

I was not aware of this. That is the best option.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/stuck-case-removers/stuck-case-puller-prod972.aspx


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz5n6sS6tbk

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Man...that's a nice one!

[roadie]

Man...that's a nice one!



It's definitely a slick tool, and one of those things that make me wonder why I didn't think of it years ago. I don't think that collet is gonna slip off any cartridge very easily. I looks like it has a ridge to slip into the extractor groove.

[rockrat]

Go to the welding supply and get a 1/4" brass welding rod to use to try and drive it out, not a dowel rod.

[HumptyDumpty]

Well I was unable to work on it today, so I have bit more time to digest all this information. The load is 30 grains of H4895, under a 160 grain boolit. Not a mouse fart load, by any means, but noticeably milder than commercial or military ball ammo. I must assume, at this point, that the projectile is firmly pressing against the powder. Removing the extractor, and firing, is not an option; When chambering this particular round, I encountered a good deal more resistance than normal. I stopped after applying only a little extra pressure to the bolt, but that seems to have been enough.
The Brownells tool looks ideal, but pricey. Perhaps a combination of soaking, chilling, and a brass rod, would get the job done. If that doesn't work, I may try to create my own tool (as Der Gebirgsjager suggested). If all else fails, I suppose I will have no choice but to give Brownells some money.

[HumptyDumpty]

.... If you only have difficulty with bolt opening and or extraction most likely is not an undersize chamber.

I encounter some moderate resistance when closing the bolt, and enough to require smacking it with my palm, when opening it. There are marks upon the brass, which make it appear as though is is being squeezed about the middle; I will try to get a picture for you guys, but they are very faint.

[M-Tecs]

In that case an undersized chamber and cases that have been fired that have the normal swelling above the web could be creating a self lock taper. If that is the case small base dies may be the solution once you get it out.

While I am willing to do things most people would call questionable, if not unsafe, I am not willing to pound out stuck loaded cartridges. If you do I would recommend holding the rod with something other than your hand and be prepared for the case to become a projectile. I personally know an individual that stuck a loaded round in a die. He tried pounding it out. He lost a finger tip. At one time I had a direct link to the benchrest shooter that was killed doing this.

Good luck and be safe.

[country gent]

Of you can get some lube in there A 50 50 mix of kroil and shooters choice would be my go to keep this wet and soaking for a week to give it time to work its magic. The kroil oil is the lubricant and the carrier. The shooters choice is a copper remover and will softer and break down the outside of the case over time. You might even warm the barrel with a blow drier to expand it letting the mix work in deeper. Then with a brass rod tap it to remove you can put the mix down the barrel and this will possibly deaden the primer and powder also if the bullet is inside the case completely. But dont depend on it work safely and accordingly.

[M-Tecs]

The thermal expansion of brass is about twice that of steel. Since the heat will transfer into the brass the brass with get tighter in the chamber with heat.

I am not in a location that I can look it up for the specific alloys but 4130 expands at about 6 1/2 millionth per degree per inch. Cartridge brass is normally about 70% copper and 30% zinc and that will be around 12 millionth per degree per inch.

With a differential of about 6 millionth per degree per inch and using dry ice ( -109.3 degrees Fahrenheit) you would get about 1/2 thousands of an inch more shrinkage on the brass.

Freezing the barreled action in dry ice and pouring boiling water on the chamber area MIGHT get you a little more depending on how fast the heat transfers to the brass.

[M-Tecs]

Diamond hole saws would load up if used to cut brass. When loaded up they stop cutting and get hot really quickly from brass on brass friction.

[M-Tecs]

On brass?

[abunaitoo]

Nice tool.
But to buy one, for just one job, might not be worth it.

[725]

M-Tecs, Never saw one of those. Very neat answer to a difficult problem.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Fortunately, your problem is not too commonly encountered. When I was a gunsmithing student we had a selection of various projects we could make, and I made several of these collets and the one slide hammer for all of them. Unfortunately, I no longer have them, as I've let a lot of tools slip away since retiring. If I still had it I'd loan it to you. The Brownell's tool is more refined, and were I younger and back in business I'd certainly buy one. I see that they sell the tool and various collets separately, but as things go nowadays they aren't unreasonably priced.

But, let's try to be pragmatic about this situation. (1) The rifle is of no use to you the way it is. (2) At present you have a little portable bomb in your gunlocker. The bullet being driven into the case and compacting the powder is going to create very high pressures should the cartridge fire. It might or might not be enough to destroy the rifle, but should the rifle survive such a firing it will probably suffer ill effects. (3) It sounds like maybe you have pre-existing chamber damage anyway; so really, what is the practical value of the rifle?

Another option presents itself, to re-barrel the rifle. There is a little danger here, in unscrewing the barrel from the receiver, but less I believe than attempting to remove the cartridge by pounding from the muzzle end. If the rifle was stripped down to just the barreled receiver and the barrel clamped in an immoveable barrel vise, then the receiver turned off from the barrel with a heavy duty action wrench I think there would be minimal chance of the cartridge firing. If I was doing the job I'd feel comfortable in doing it, and of course wear safety glasses and a face shield. It's just in the nature of barrel removal that one is standing to the side anyway to exert pressure on the wrench, and not directly behind. Again, if you lived just down the road and could bring it over I'd be happy to do it for you, but no longer being "in the business" and not having an FFL I can't have you send it to me.

By re-barreling you have (1) eliminated the stuck case problem, and (2) installed a better or new barrel and eliminated the pre-existing chamber problem. As for the original barrel that still has the stuck cartridge in it, myself hating to waste anything, I'd cut it off ahead of the chamber and save it for future projects, and I'd dig a deep hole and bury the chamber stub.

That's the end of my practical advise, and the rest is just rambling. When going through the gunsmithing school it was 95% hands on in the shop, but once in awhile we had time in a formal classroom where we'd receive sage advise from various instructors. The stuck cartridge and removal tool came up once, and the instructor said, "Sooner or later someone will come into your shop with a rifle with a cartridge stuck in the chamber. This is a dangerous situation, because inevitably the owner will have tried to remove it by pounding it out with a rod of some sort from the muzzle end. This compacts the bullet into the case and usually creates a wedge situation where the bullet was originally partially out of the case but is now driven into the neck and can't go any farther partially because of the constriction and partially because of the powder being compressed. The customer is at his wit's end as to how to remove it, and usually realizes that he is handing you a serious problem. You, however have the tool and the knowledge about how to use the tool, and can probably remove it in 10 minutes. You should charge the customer $100-$150 for the job (this was in '81-'82 and $100 was worth more) because you had to pay to attend this school and had to make the tool". So, for what it's worth, there's a peek into the logic of the gunsmithing world, and the idea that perhaps if you're a budding gunsmith investment in one of these tools might be a good investment. :-D

[M-Tecs]

Here. I made a video of it so people can see. These hole saws cost about a buck a piece.

https://youtu.be/MgHSLBA-pvE

I stand corrected. Thanks

[M-Tecs]

The load is 30 grains of H4895, under a 160 grain boolit. Not a mouse fart load, by any means, but noticeably milder than commercial or military ball ammo. I must assume, at this point, that the projectile is firmly pressing against the powder.

Per Quickload 30 grains is 52.6% of case capacity. If the bullet is actually pushed into the case you MIGHT be able to push the bullet back away from shoulder with a cleaning rod while hold the muzzle down and shake the powder out . Easy enough to check. Take a fired case that has not been sized drop a bullet in and than 30 grains of powder. If the powder is below the neck you should be able to shake it out.

[M-Tecs]

. If that doesn't work, I may try to create my own tool (as Der Gebirgsjager suggested). If all else fails, I suppose I will have no choice but to give Brownells some money.

While the Brownell tool may resolve you first problem it will do nothing to address your second issue. If you have the capability to create your own tools I would recommend making a barrel vise and action wrench and pulling the barrel. This allows you many more options for removing the case and addressing the issue that created the problem.

How did it chamber with factory ammo? Headspace gauges are undersize in the body. For the average person a chamber cast would be the easiest method to check the chamber body size.

[HumptyDumpty]

The case is out. I let it soak overnight in penetrating oil, and spent the last half-hour repeatedly packing the chamber with dry ice. I donned face, hand, and ear protection, and employed a brass rod in the pictured manner. I am not deluding myself; this was absolutely dangerous, and I would not recommend anybody else do it this way. But, I elected to take the risk, and now I can have the chamber fixed. Also, note the marks I was talking about on the case body, along with the rim damage from the extractor.

[HumptyDumpty]

While the Brownell tool may resolve you first problem it will do nothing to address your second issue. If you have the capability to create your own tools I would recommend making a barrel vise and action wrench and pull the barrel. This allows you many more options for removing the case and addressing the issue that created the problem.

I will eventually get the tool anyway, since there will be plenty of other rifles in my future. At this point, fixing the problem myself is beyond my skill level, and this is not the rifle I want to practice on.

[M-Tecs]

The case is out. I let it soak overnight in penetrating oil, and spent the last half-hour repeatedly packing the chamber with dry ice. I donned face, hand, and ear protection, and employed a brass rod in the pictured manner. I am not deluding myself; this was absolutely dangerous, and I would not recommend anybody else do it this way. But, I elected to take the risk, and now I can have the chamber fixed. Also, note the marks I was talking about on the case body, along with the rim damage from the extractor.

Great. Thanks for the update. Was the bullet pushed all the way into the case?

[brassrat]

glad you got it, those rifles are nice I have read

[Texas by God]

I think I would rebarrel that "31-06". It's already been sporterized somewhat so I'd rebarrel, restock, do the whole enchilada. There's no collector value and the 1909 is a top shelf action. IMHO.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[elmacgyver0]

I know you don't plan on fixing this yourself but just for general information.
I repaired a 30.06 barrel that had been demilled by 3 holes drilled into the barrel, bore diameter.
One hole through the center of the barrel into the bore, one like it a few inches from the muzzle and one into the chamber.
I tapped the holes and made plugs from hard bolts contouring the ends to match the bore best I could then welded them in place.
I then used needle files inside the chamber to work the end of the bolt for a smooth transition.
I drilled out the base of a 30.06 case and glued it to a dowel and then coated the case with fine grinding compound and used this to smooth the chamber.
The gun is a Madsen Light Machine Gun converted to semi-auto for legality purposes.
The gun functions fine.
The ejected cases have a very small crescent shaped mark where I didn't quite get the bolt to chamber transition perfect but does not.
affect function.
I doubt if the accuracy is on par with a bench rest rifle but then it probably never was when it was new.
Posted this just to illustrate what can be done with determination and a slim wallet.

[HumptyDumpty]

It was; in fact, powder was being displaced, and escaping around it. This is somewhat visible in the picture, but I couldn't get as good of a shot as I had wanted.

[M-Tecs]

Thanks. I wasn't sure if that was the case mouth or the rod you used. Posting pics and the various discussions is a learning tool for all of us.

[BigEyeBob]

We have had two detonations in Australia over the last 5 or so years regarding stuck live cartridges .The detonations occurred when a brass or steel rod was passed down the bore of the rifles and struck to remove the cartridges . Both rifles were destroyed and one person severley injured .Both occurences were investigated and no definate conclusion was reached as to why the cartridges detonated .I would be looking at another method of removal .Apologise for the late reply and not completely reading the entire post , but I was concerned for your safety.

[barrabruce]

How would have hydraulic pressure have worked I wonder.
Mostly filling the barrell with Ed’s red and making a tight fitting patch seal and whacking a bore safe rod with a hammer.
I did that once at the range for some one but the case had been fired.

They never did thank me either for doing it after the mandatory wrecking other people’s cleaning rods from the experts.

[HumptyDumpty]

I am convinced the case would not have budged without thermal contraction. I am unsure if using hydraulic pressure would have been more safe; is it he sudden shock of a hammer blow, or simply an excessive level of pressure, that can cause powder to combust? Purely from a physics standpoint, high enough pressure levels would have to result in ignition, but I doubt I could create anywhere near those kind of PSI figures, at least not without a press of some sort.

[barrabruce]

I think you get a good pressure push in a large area..
Where as a rod would wants to buckle and flex soaking up the forces.
The primer comes out and oil squirts everywhere.
You really only get one good go at it.
Just wondering of the physics/safety/how it would work with a live round.
You could build up quite a shock force in theory.

One time success with an empty shell doesn’t mean much.

I’m interested too if it would be a viable way.

[abunaitoo]

The marks on the case look strange.
And kind of familiar.
I have two 91 Arg carbines.
Some yahoo ran a .308 reamer in to them.
They shoot fine, but the cases look strange.
Kind of a double shoulder.
They also have marks similar to what you have.
Probably not the same problem as your, but maybe someone ran a reamer in it.
Glad you got it out without any drama.

[waksupi]

I am convinced the case would not have budged without thermal contraction. I am unsure if using hydraulic pressure would have been more safe; is it he sudden shock of a hammer blow, or simply an excessive level of pressure, that can cause powder to combust? Purely from a physics standpoint, high enough pressure levels would have to result in ignition, but I doubt I could create anywhere near those kind of PSI figures, at least not without a press of some sort.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_piston

[gnostic]

Find/buy a 1/4" hardwood dowel longer than the barrel + chamber. Slide it into the bore of the rifle, take it outside and set it muzzle down on the end of the dowel. If any power falls out, clean it up. Use the weight of the rifle to drive the dowel into the cartridge case. Then bump it once, check for more powder, clean it up, and repeat until it comes out. Might take a while, but that should get it.

Using a dowel rod is always a bad idea, it will break, a brass rod is the way to go. As the case jumped the extractor, can you remove the bolt? A brass rod and no bolt should make it easy to remove. It might be a good idea to kill the primer by soaking in penetrating oil before you start beating on it....

[abunaitoo]

I use aluminum rods.
Hard to find brass rods here.
Plus the aluminum cost less.

[HumptyDumpty]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_piston
Wow. That is worth a trip to the hardware store:mrgreen:

[elmacgyver0]

At this point it is moot, as he got the case out.
Now he needs to fix his chamber.

[M-Tecs]

Personally I have never nor will I ever pound out a stuck loaded cartridge. I don't know if its the fire piston principle or the nitroglycerin content of the powder but I do know for a fact that pounding a loaded cartridge out has far more risk than benefit. Friend lost his thumb doing that with a stuck case in a die.

Since I have been threading, chambering and installing barrels for 40 years pulling the barrel is always my preferred method. I was not aware of the Brownells type tool and that would be my second choice . Third is if it can be done safely firing it. Due to the rimmed damage the OP stated firing was not an option but lets do a risk analysis of firing in the OP's case. In the OP's case the load was 62% of max and 52% of the case volume but the lead bullet had been beat on. If the bullet was just pushed back the case volume was reduced. In the 30/06 with maximum push back the case volume would still be more than a 30/30 case and that load is safe in a 30/30 size case at 30/30 pressures. As the OP stated the bullet was pushed all the way into the case. If fired the burning powder gasses would be about the same as taking a match to loose powder. The bullet would just lay in the case as the powder burnt around it. Since I have a lead sled it would have been fired with a long sting just incase.

With max loads or a different case combination firing a bullet that has been pushed back and the subsequent reduced case volume firing it could be very dangerous. That why a one size all approach may not be the best.

For stuck bullets I generally use 0-1 tool steel polished rod with the point profiled to match the bullet point.