Spray lube/rust preventive

[dale2242]

I`m not entirely happy with Rem Oil but it seems to be the only spray oil any of the big box stores carry.
I have oil in drip bottles but I use spray oil as well.
I was looking at aerosol lube/rust preventives on line and see many different kinds and brands.
Is synthetic better than regular oil?
Give my some help here.
What are you using and why?

[dangitgriff]

I use CorrosionX in the pump bottle, they also have it in aerosol cans. Also good is the aviation-type corrosion preventative compound (CPC).
Hornady One-Shot is popular, but a bit pricey. Same with Frog Lube and similar.
For cost-effectiveness, it is hard to beat the WD-40 Specialist line of products...I would recommend the ‘Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor’ formula for firearms.
R/Griff

[Petrol & Powder]

You're going to get a phone book worth of "Well I use X" Which is fine but lets get down what's important.

To prevent ferrous metals from rusting you need to prevent oxygen and water from reaching the surface of the metal. Oil, grease, wax, etc. form a barrier to protect the metal from oxidation. Just about anything will accomplish that goal, the key is "for how long"?
Some substances will harden over time, some will evaporate, some chemically change as they react with air & water, some rub off easier than others, blah, blah, blah.....
SO - you need to match the product to the application.
A gun carried in the field for a day is different that one sitting in a safe for 4 years.

And for the record, I'm not a big fan of aerosols and spray bottles. The Aerosols require some type of propellant and carrier. Both aerosols and pump spray bottles put product in places you don't need to.

Now, to get back to "Well I use ____________" ;-) ,,, RIG has never let me down for long term storage.

For a day out in the rain where the gun will be dried and cleaned at the end of the day, a wax or light oil may be better.

[Kraschenbirn]

Mobil-1 00w20 applied with a fine-mist spray bottle from Bed, Bath, & Beyond then wiped down with a sheepskin pad. (Same style of bottle I use for applying my isopropyl alcohol/lanolin case lube) Been using this for several years with no build-up of gunk (like with WD-40) or even a hint of corrosion.

Bill

[Mal Paso]

Spot Spray solves the spray issue. Mine is full of acetone and ATF 50/50. It's the best penetrating formula. Rated at 100 psi It should atomize most oils.

[beechbum444]

Clp collector

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

For short term storage, I use G96, it is a C.L.P. spray.
It works well in my environment.

[gwpercle]

For long term storage don't forget about a good paste wax job , just a pure wax no cleaner in it .
Two coats will keep it rust free for awhile .
Not a thing wrong with Rem-Oil it's an excellent LIGHT oil not really designed for use on the exterior for long term storage .

A good product is Birchwood Casey Barricade Rust Preventative , it has a wax base ...spray on let dry and the wax film is designed to prevent rust ...it's not oily or greasy...wax is good.
Gary

[samari46]

I have more than a few lubes, cleaners and wipe on protectants. and use about all of them at one time or another. Been giving some serious thought about Ed's Red. Easily made and most reports I've read seem to indicate it can serve multiple uses. Then there are about the U.S. military weapons oil medium in the 4oz bottles I have. With our self imposed stay at home routine due to the chinese virus and limiting exposure and very infrequent trips Ed's Red is sounding very good.Frank

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have more than a few lubes, cleaners and wipe on protectants. and use about all of them at one time or another. Been giving some serious thought about Ed's Red. Easily made and most reports I've read seem to indicate it can serve multiple uses. Then there are about the U.S. military weapons oil medium in the 4oz bottles I have. With our self imposed stay at home routine due to the chinese virus and limiting exposure and very infrequent trips Ed's Red is sounding very good.Frank

Just a heads up, if you don't have all the ingredients for Ed's Red, check with your County's household hazardous waste collection site, if your county has one...most Counties have them now-a-days. They collect chemicals, including old paint and thinners, they check them out to see if they are still good, then give them away to residents to use ...the ultimate recycle :)
> I frequently see acetone, MS, tranny fluid, gum spirits of turpentine, I even seen kerosene once, in a small can for heaters. I go there there often, to get boiled Linseed oil to coat my trailers with.

[fcvan]

My formula is X = FE - FO2

I first leaned from shooting a percussion revolver the best protection was hot soapy water as soon as I got home, rinse with very hot water, followed by a dry patch and a wipe down. Then I used WD40 liberally followed b another wipe down. Worked well in the high desert and the coastal pacific northwest.

There are lots of great products, but Water Displacement formula 40 was designed for a specific purpose, I believe for the Navy but I'm not sure of that. I paste wax under rifle fore stocks, I have heard good things about other products but (for me) X is WD40, FE is ferrous metal, FEO2 is of course ferrous oxide. Don't want none of that.

[Mytmousemalibu]

LPS-3 is an excellent corrosion barrier. We use most all the LPS products all across aviation and corrosion is a super important thing we battle with. Products have to be good to make it as an approved product. Its used on some pretty critical hardware on the jets I work on. It is an aerosol liquidy, waxy product that firms up after spraying to leave a resilient waxy barrier. LPS-2 is also good for shorter term storage. Corrosion-X is another great product, also an aviation standard.

[Petrol & Powder]

Back before stainless steel rifles became a thing, waxing blued steel firearms was very common. The wax needed to be wax and not wax & polish (which most automotive waxes are). Before Renaissance Wax was widely known, Johnson's wax was the stand by. Johnson's wax isn't very tough when applied to metal but it was better than nothing and it stayed in place better than oil.
Wax on the steel that is covered by the stock is a good idea because if left unprotected that steel will rust but you will not see the rust until you separate the wood from the metal.

There's a strong tendency to say this product is better than that product but neglect is a far bigger problem than the quality of the product.

[dangitgriff]

Nine different gun lube products tested over several months: results in this video:

https://youtu.be/uOB5eCReAQY

[gwpercle]

My formula is X = FE - FO2

I first leaned from shooting a percussion revolver the best protection was hot soapy water as soon as I got home, rinse with very hot water, followed by a dry patch and a wipe down. Then I used WD40 liberally followed b another wipe down. Worked well in the high desert and the coastal pacific northwest.

There are lots of great products, but Water Displacement formula 40 was designed for a specific purpose, I believe for the Navy but I'm not sure of that. I paste wax under rifle fore stocks, I have heard good things about other products but (for me) X is WD40, FE is ferrous metal, FEO2 is of course ferrous oxide. Don't want none of that.

I didn't think this was going to turn into a math test.... I hate math formula's .
Pie are not square , pie are round , cornbread are square .

[toallmy]

A few days ago I decided to fondle a few firearms and to wipe them down with oil and a rag . At the beginning I realized I was out of gun oil , or thought I was . So I took out my bottle of Eds red poured a empty gun oil bottle about half full then finished filling it up with 30 w Pennzoil . We will see how that works out , by the way later I found where I left that new bottle of gun oil I thought I had in the basement .
I don't do long term storage although some of my firearms are 50-100 years old[smilie=l:

[jonp]

WD40 Specialist Long Term works great but you didn't specify firearms or what. I've gone to that for all long term except molds and saw blades. For those I use ballistol as it's easier to remove.

Firearms short term Ballistol, long term 0W20 full synthetic although short term I can't tell the difference between ballistol, rem oil etc

[samari46]

Completely forgot about the LPS products. Normally just use #1 & #2 but bought a can of #3 to apply to my ancient surface plate.

And thanks for the tip regarding parish recycle areas. Down here they usaually accept just about any thing. Old paint,herbicides, oils and the rest. Don't think they give anything away due to liability concerns. Haven't had a Parish recycle day in a long time and with the chinese virus don't think they will have one this year. Frank

[dale2242]

jonp, I guess I should not assume anything.
Since this is a gun related site I assumed people would know I was taking about gun oil.
Yes I was referring to lube/rust preventive for fire arms.
Looks like I need to make myself clearer about that...dale

[Markopolo]

am i the only one that uses Balistol??? great stuff.... surprised it hasn't come up yet

[djryan13]

Ha! I just came in to say the same. Good stuff and it is safe on wood. I spray down all my longer term stores guns with it.



am i the only one that uses Balistol??? great stuff.... surprised it hasn't come up yet

[gwrench]

I mostly use ballistol or frog lube, sometimes Fluid Film. FF doesn't dry out so it has some really good uses.

[Kent Fowler]

Been using Rig Rags for the last 30 years.

[porthos]

when you guys are done saying what is best for long term storage; do this. get a old gun bbl; piece of old steel ect. clean it down to bare metal, clean it with acetone. now apply what you think is good (use several products) masking off 1-2 in. areas and apply the products. best way is to wipe on with a cleaning patch like you would on a gun. now the good part. take outside and hang from a tree for 1 or more weeks. check daily and watch rust appear on some of the products. if you are just keeping the guns in the safe; anything will work. i made a statement on another site (maybe it was this one) a few years ago. you can spit an a gun wipe it off and put in your safe and it will be ok. so, some months later i did. i had a 3 in. section of sawed off shotgun bbl. i wiped it off with acetone; then licked it. its still in the gun safe rust free. so, that being said; do the outside test. most of the products mentoined suck. what does work are boeshield t-9, lps3, fluid film and maybe frog lube paste. challenge me with your own OUTSIDE test.

[jonp]

am i the only one that uses Balistol??? great stuff.... surprised it hasn't come up yet

Post #17 :Fire:

No worries on not specifying guns or whatnot. Lot's of questions asked about lots of stuff. I just got some good welding advice.

challenge me with your own OUTSIDE test.

Don't have to. Many online video's on this that are quite good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eJSLPLpF5U

Here is a written one that tests 46 of them: http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 This along with a test I saw at Project Farm https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2rzsm1Qi6N1X-wuOg_p0Ng/featured which is an interesting channel. Lots of tests here that I'd do myself if I had the time like best penetrating oil, best super glue etc.

[Newboy]

Take a spray bottle. Put some tolulene or zylene (hardware store) in it. Put some paraffin in the sprayer. Allow to dissolve overnight. Spray on anything you do not want to rust.

I do not know the reaction to every stock finish, as i use it on all my woodworking tools.


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