Found this Sharps Borchardt at a gun show a couple of weeks ago

[ScrapMetal]

It found it's way home with me. It's in .45-70, the rifling looks very good for it's age. The stock has a repair right next to the receiver on one side and is cracked on the other. I need to find the best way to repair that as well as try and find if I can mount a tang sight on it.
Sorry for the crappy pictures, when I get some time I'll take some better ones.

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt02a.png


http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt03a.png


http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt04a.png


http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt05a.png


http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt06a.png

-Ron

[Tatume]

Very, very cool. I know someone who can fix the stock for you.

"Steve Zihn" <szihn@wyoming.com>

[Gewehr-Guy]

Good find! Too bad so many of them were made into varmint rifles back in the 30's and 40's. Some day I'll find one, or a nice Peabody

[marlinman93]

That's a good looking Borchardt with a lot of finish left on it. Tough to find them that nice anymore.

[country gent]

A great find there. I have a reproduction by Al Story at BRC rifles. The brochardt is a great shooter (shame its not allowed for bpcr matches) MVA has the bases and staffs or send you rifles upper base to them for fitting of the sight. Another option is one of mvas period scopes on it, but this requires drilling and tapping 4 holes in the barrel on a fine old rifle

The stock shouldn't be to hard to fix. Some thin epoxy and work into crack clamp snug. If you can open it a little with a small wood wedge coat receiver with release. OPen stocks crack and work in mixed epoxy. blow in as deep as possible with a rubber tipped blow gun. assemble on rifle and clamp down wiping excess from joint. I chill the 2 parts of the epoxy in the refrigerator over night. this gives a longer work time before curring starts. You want the epoxy to push out when clamped as this forms a completes air free bond. Accra glass works well and comes with coloring agents, black and brown. Brownells aslo sells dyes for epoxies that can be used to blend the perfect color. If the crack is still tight then the bond seam will be thin and hard to see when fixed

[ScrapMetal]

Very, very cool. I know someone who can fix the stock for you.

"Steve Zihn" <szihn@wyoming.com>

I'll keep him in mind. Thanks



A great find there. I have a reproduction by Al Story at BRC rifles. The brochardt is a great shooter (shame its not allowed for bpcr matches) MVA has the bases and staffs or send you rifles upper base to them for fitting of the sight. Another option is one of mvas period scopes on it, but this requires drilling and tapping 4 holes in the barrel on a fine old rifle

The stock shouldn't be to hard to fix. Some thin epoxy and work into crack clamp snug. If you can open it a little with a small wood wedge coat receiver with release. OPen stocks crack and work in mixed epoxy. blow in as deep as possible with a rubber tipped blow gun. assemble on rifle and clamp down wiping excess from joint. I chill the 2 parts of the epoxy in the refrigerator over night. this gives a longer work time before curring starts. You want the epoxy to push out when clamped as this forms a completes air free bond. Accra glass works well and comes with coloring agents, black and brown. Brownells aslo sells dyes for epoxies that can be used to blend the perfect color. If the crack is still tight then the bond seam will be thin and hard to see when fixed

I saw that MVA lists the bases for Borchardts but there isn't much room on this one to mount one. I'll try and post more and hopefully better pics tomorrow so you guys can see what I'm talking about.

One thing I'm concerned with is that the stock feels like it has a hundred years worth of oil soaked in to it. Makes me unsure as to whether the epoxy will be able to get a good amount of adhesion.

Oh, and I was aware that the Borchardts were not allowed in bpcr matches, it's that lack of external hammer thing apparently, but I don't see how that would make much difference.

Thanks guys,

-Ron

[marlinman93]

Using some acetone on contact surfaces before applying epoxy is usually good enough to ensure a tight solid bond. I use plain old saran wrap over metal parts if I"m epoxying or gluing wood on the gun. I've occasionally had sticking issues with spots using release agent, and the wrap works better, and is faster too.
It's always easier to clamp wood together, and ensure a good fit to the metal if you can clamp it in place on the gun. I use 24 hr. or at least 90 minute epoxy for stock repairs. I don't want to have to rush this type of repair, or it usually ends up going sideways. Plus slower drying epoxies are stronger than the 5 or 10 minute types.

[country gent]

The brocharts lock time is much faster than most of the hammer are. On mine when disassembled the upper plate slides out and can be replaced with the one for the tang sight. But mine is a reproduction by BRC.

I also prefer a long cure epoxy for stock repairs and a thinner one also. Thinner is easier to work in to tight areas. I also chill the 2 parts before using, this can gain you another 15-30 mins working time. I like the saran wrap idea and will try that next repair I do.

At some point you may want to consider working the oils out of the stock, it does soften the wood and also darkens it hiding grain and colors. It might be a really nice piece of wood there. Ice seen some garand and M14 military stocks that when cleaned up had very nice grain and colors

[ScrapMetal]

The "acetone and thin (long set) expoxy" are great suggestions. Thanks much.

If the only issue is "lock time" it seems a bit arbitrary. I have to wonder if the lock times for all other single shots have been measured (as well as guns that have been modified) to see if the Borchardt really has that great of advantage. JMHO


My photography skills are a bit rusty but these should give a better idea of what it's like.

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt03.png

Picture of the crack. The wood is very loose there and I had to push it back in to place to make it as small as it looks. Without a doubt it will need repair.

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt04.png

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt06.png

Sorry, you can't make out the entire "Old Reliable" on the barrel. Need another picture.

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt07.png

Like I said, not much room for a tang and drilling might be a p.i.t.a. When I take the stock off for repair will be the time to do it though.

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt09.png

No idea what the small plate with two screws is for.

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt13.png

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt17.png

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt23.png

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt26.png

This is the repair on the opposite site of the stock from the crack. Poor aesthetics but seems fairly solid.

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt27.png

The bore looks pretty good as well but I need to run a patch or two through it and get the bore scope out. No matter what I am super happy with my find even though I probably was too excited when I came across it and most likely overpaid a bit.

Thanks for all the comments so far,

-Ron

[pietro]

http://www.arcaneiron.com/firearms/Borchardt/borchardt09.png

No idea what the small plate with two screws is for.

-Ron




They are the forearm & lever spring screws.

.

[GARD72977]

Faster lock times become more important in offhand shooting. I'm sure the brocharts will beat any BPRC with a massive hammer. My money is on it aganist any exposed hammer gun.

I really notice lock time with a Airgun shooting Sillhouette. You better have follow through ( some of it is just low FPS not lock time. )

The rifle is very nice. It's on my never ending list.........

[ScrapMetal]

They are the forearm & lever spring screws.

.

Thanks for the info. That'll definitely come in handy.



Faster lock times become more important in offhand shooting. I'm sure the brocharts will beat any BPRC with a massive hammer. My money is on it aganist any exposed hammer gun.

I really notice lock time with a Airgun shooting Sillhouette. You better have follow through ( some of it is just low FPS not lock time. )

The rifle is very nice. It's on my never ending list.........

If it's truly a lot faster I can see where it would be more effective in off-hand.

As far as being "on my list", my list is so large it's shorter and easier to list guns that AREN'T on it. :mrgreen:

-Ron

[Don McDowell]

The trigger pull on some of those 78's is nothing short of a physical work out. Some were worked on and are a nice crisp 3 lbs. I have one of both varieties.
You'll want to do some serious lead mining before you shoot it for accuracy, a lot of those have some pretty serious lead build up in the throat.
You could fix that stock but it might not hold if you shoot it much.
The MVA base is very short and will fit on that stub of a top tang.
If you're interested in doing it, you have a pretty good basis for a custom build target rifle.
Unfortunately those aren't legal for NRA silhouette, but they work very well for Black Powder Target rifle.

[Gunlaker]

Nice find! I like the Borchardt's quite a lot. I have one built by Curt Hardcastle that I've shot in long range with. The only downside in my view is that spare parts are hard to get, that and I live in Canada and we don't have any gunsmith that is experienced with them.

Chris.

[willowbend]

It's bigger than the bread basket! Very nice.

[marlinman93]

Since the Borchardt uses a through bolt to retain the buttstock it's not unusual to see cracks radiating from the upper tang. And likely the missing chunk on the right upper tang was from a crack that finally gave up and fell out. I'd remove all that wood filler and start by removing enough wood from that area to get a flat, clean surface to build from. Then cut a piece of wood from some plain straight grain walnut to fit a bit oversized. Epoxy it in place and then begin carving and shaping it down until it fits. Then hit it with a good dark stain to match the surrounding finish, and seal it with some Wipe On Poly satin to match.
Borchardts used a later Sharps tang sight spacing that was the same as Marlins, and Marlin Ballard rifles at 1.125", so you can order a sight for a Marlin Ballard and D&T the tang to fit the spacing. Original Sharps rifles had two different spacings and the Marlin spacing was the short version.

[Texas by God]

Looking at your rifle made me think of these although I've never seen either rifle in person. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/2c8484cbfc189b23bde1eef99017d385.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[rfd]

as a luthier, i do a lot of wood fine crack repairs by cleaning the crack with naphtha (lighter fluid) and allowing it to flash off, fill the crack with superfine acrylic powder (found at "beauty" supply stores) or baking soda or bone dust, wick in quality water thin CYA (cyanoacrylate "super glue", found in hobby shops, varying brand names, i buy "hot stuff" by the case). the glue will wick deep into the wood grain and may require another treatment to get the glue flush or higher with the crack's top. sandpaper it flush (i typically use a 120 grit emery board). the resulting cracked area will be stronger than the surrounding wood grain.

[ScrapMetal]

The trigger pull on some of those 78's is nothing short of a physical work out. Some were worked on and are a nice crisp 3 lbs. I have one of both varieties.
You'll want to do some serious lead mining before you shoot it for accuracy, a lot of those have some pretty serious lead build up in the throat.
You could fix that stock but it might not hold if you shoot it much.
The MVA base is very short and will fit on that stub of a top tang.
If you're interested in doing it, you have a pretty good basis for a custom build target rifle.
Unfortunately those aren't legal for NRA silhouette, but they work very well for Black Powder Target rifle.

Black Powder Target rifle is probably what I'll be building it for. As far as the trigger pull goes, even though I haven't put a scale on it yet, it seems really reasonable. I'll post after I measure it FWIW.
Good to know on the MVA tang as well. Guess I'm no where near done spending money (don't tell the wife ;) )


Since the Borchardt uses a through bolt to retain the buttstock it's not unusual to see cracks radiating from the upper tang. And likely the missing chunk on the right upper tang was from a crack that finally gave up and fell out. I'd remove all that wood filler and start by removing enough wood from that area to get a flat, clean surface to build from. Then cut a piece of wood from some plain straight grain walnut to fit a bit oversized. Epoxy it in place and then begin carving and shaping it down until it fits. Then hit it with a good dark stain to match the surrounding finish, and seal it with some Wipe On Poly satin to match.
Borchardts used a later Sharps tang sight spacing that was the same as Marlins, and Marlin Ballard rifles at 1.125", so you can order a sight for a Marlin Ballard and D&T the tang to fit the spacing. Original Sharps rifles had two different spacings and the Marlin spacing was the short version.

If I go with a repair like that I'll probably pin the new piece(s) to the old stock as well. Thanks.


as a luthier, i do a lot of wood fine crack repairs by cleaning the crack with naphtha (lighter fluid) and allowing it to flash off, fill the crack with superfine acrylic powder (found at "beauty" supply stores) or baking soda or bone dust, wick in quality water thin CYA (cyanoacrylate "super glue", found in hobby shops, varying brand names, i buy "hot stuff" by the case). the glue will wick deep into the wood grain and may require another treatment to get the glue flush or higher with the crack's top. sandpaper it flush (i typically use a 120 grit emery board). the resulting cracked area will be stronger than the surrounding wood grain.

Good advice. I don't know if I could get away with that though. Even though the CA wicks everywhere (I know this only too well) it may require a little more surgery first.

Thanks much guys.

-Ron

[Don McDowell]

Scrapmetal, a maybe less expensive option to get your rifle into good competitive condition would be to have McGowen cut you a barrel contoured to the same as it wears now. Send the new barrel along with the rifle to Steve Baldwin to have him fit ,chamber, blue and instal sights on it. If you're handy with wood you can get a rough blank from Treebone to replace that buttstock.
Steve and I visited about doing that very thing to my military Borchardt just last week while we were shooting in Phoenix at the Triple Crown matches.

[ScrapMetal]

Don,

I will consider that, especially depending on what I find when I pull the stock off. I am handy with wood but in a "frame a house" kind of way. The finesse of finish/fine work on wood has escaped me to date. :wink: Now working with metal, that's another story.

Great info and suggestions guys. I can't say thanks enough.

-Ron

[Don McDowell]

Ron if you decide to run that rifle as is, you might want to slug the barrel or do a chamber cast that takes in the first inch or so of the rifling. My military borchardt has the long chamber and the bore and groove is a bit generous. I trim 2.4 inch cases back to 2.3 for that rifle and load them with 85 grains of 1f.

[bigted]

The chamber and first 8 or so inch of barrel is a view that should be of utmost interest.

Were it me ... and I have done this with two old rollers and a 1873 Winchester ... I would strip it down and with patch's stuffed tightly into this area ... inject them with Turpentine till all are soaking wet ... allow to soak for a week ... injecting the patch's to keep em wet ... followed by a brisk copper or brass bristle brush. Swab it out with tight patch's and watch for lead slivers. Continue till no more lead shows ... my '73' took 4 bouts like this to make it come clean ... chambered in 38 WCF.

Very cool find and adoption. I am Jealous. Found mine in Alaska of all places ... sure wish I had tried harder to adopt.

[ScrapMetal]

Ron if you decide to run that rifle as is, you might want to slug the barrel or do a chamber cast that takes in the first inch or so of the rifling. My military borchardt has the long chamber and the bore and groove is a bit generous. I trim 2.4 inch cases back to 2.3 for that rifle and load them with 85 grains of 1f.

Yes, I'll be doing that before I start reloading for it. I've got about three other rifles that are in line in front of it though (all need to be slugged).


The chamber and first 8 or so inch of barrel is a view that should be of utmost interest.

Were it me ... and I have done this with two old rollers and a 1873 Winchester ... I would strip it down and with patch's stuffed tightly into this area ... inject them with Turpentine till all are soaking wet ... allow to soak for a week ... injecting the patch's to keep em wet ... followed by a brisk copper or brass bristle brush. Swab it out with tight patch's and watch for lead slivers. Continue till no more lead shows ... my '73' took 4 bouts like this to make it come clean ... chambered in 38 WCF.

Very cool find and adoption. I am Jealous. Found mine in Alaska of all places ... sure wish I had tried harder to adopt.

Sounds like a lot of work. I have an old Outers Foul-Out that removes lead by electrolysis somehow. I just figured I'd get it fired up and let it sit over night.

Thanks,

-Ron

[iomskp]

I think you should throw that cleaning rod away, or give it to me so I can dispose of it for you.

[marlinman93]

For bores I think might have extreme fouling, or lead build up I simply run a very tight patch through them using Lead remover patches from Kleenbore or Birchwood Casey. I use a jag that fits the bore or use cloth patches under the lead remover patches to build it up until it's tight enough. I want the fit tight enough that I have to use a rubber mallet to tap the rod into the bore to start. Then I push it through and when it comes out I remove the patch and pull the rod back.
I can often see shards of lead shaped like the grooves if it's a leaded bore. So I repeat until I see no more traces of lead. At that point I run a last patch in, and run it back and forth inside the bore numerous times. I've had bores that looked like the proverbial dirt road that came out crisp, bright, and shiny when I finished this process. And it only takes about 5-10 minutes.
I buy the lead remover cloth in sheet packages and cut it into patches the size needed. It's cheaper and better than buying their precut patches.

[ScrapMetal]

I think you should throw that cleaning rod away, or give it to me so I can dispose of it for you.

I am always amazed at how thoughtful members on this forum can be. :mrgreen:

Marlinman93, I've never tried the lead remover patches but I have used the Lewis lead remover system on a couple of my old revolvers. Wouldn't something like that work here as well?

-Ron

[cameron.meeks]

Very envious had chance to shoot several of them that had been mad in 1920's - 1960's varmit guns. both of the ones I shot a lot the 22-250 and 22-30SHP were on comercial actions the 22-250 had doublesets. Yes ai know their existance is seen by some as the a mortal sin but I did not wreck them and I did enjoy my time being able to shoot them.
Great gun great find I know you will enjoy it

Sent from my HP Chromebook x360 11 G1 EE using Tapatalk

[Don McDowell]

Scrapmetal, the pure gum spirits of turpentine on a flannel patch works very well, and is basically pretty cheap, and isn't abrasive to the softer steel on these old rifles.

[ScrapMetal]

Scrapmetal, the pure gum spirits of turpentine on a flannel patch works very well, and is basically pretty cheap, and isn't abrasive to the softer steel on these old rifles.

Good to know. Thanks much.

-Ron

[uscra112]

An old gunsmithing book I have recommended boiling wood like that in a solution of trisodium phosphate. My modern method is to run it through a dishwasher set as hot as it will go, using TSP in the dispenser. Pulls old oil and dirt out like nobody's business, and gives you a clean set of surfaces to work from when gluing or inlaying repairs. I've lost count of how many grimy old singleshot stocks I've done this way. Nothing can beat it.

[iomskp]

As you may have guessed mine is missing the rod, it was also missing the rear sight I have replaced the rear sight I am now looking for a rod, no hurry but I am in the process of refurbishing the whole rifle including the wood and all the lettering including the Chinese scroll on the barrel.

[marlinman93]

Might be tough to find a dishwasher that would hold that long forearm. And if you only did the buttstock then the forearm might be tough to ever get a matching finish on. I'd use acetone and whitening powder to pull out oils from the wood if i wanted to refinish the stocks. But personally I think refinishing the wood is a bad choice. It will ruin the value of this old gun, and I'd choose to do a careful stock repair and try to match that to the existing wood, not make it all look new.
Now if the plan is to use this action and do a complete build, then all that doesn't matter. But I'd rather keep it as it is since there's fewer and fewer original Borchardts out there.

[country gent]

I believe before refinishing the original wood I would call tree bone or BRC rifle company and order new wood in the grade desired and fit and finish it to pretty and set the originals back as is. If you going to do a complete build then it the new wood is a plus also

[bigted]

Scrapmetal, the pure gum spirits of turpentine on a flannel patch works very well, and is basically pretty cheap, and isn't abrasive to the softer steel on these old rifles.

Thanks Don. You are the one I learned this tip from. Works like a charm. I guess wording is everything ... just glad the message came through.

I have never harmed an old firearm using this method. If any accidentally touch's another part or wood ... it does no harm. I would be hesitant to trust any "modern" methods on the precious old metal of an heirloom piece.

My greatest find and ""resurrection" is an old Sporting Remington Rolling block re-re-chambered from a shorter 40 cal to 40-65 (40 WCF). Onec the lead mine was so cleaned up ... this old bore actually shines and has great rifling. Shoots fantastic.

[ScrapMetal]

An old gunsmithing book I have recommended boiling wood like that in a solution of trisodium phosphate. My modern method is to run it through a dishwasher set as hot as it will go, using TSP in the dispenser. Pulls old oil and dirt out like nobody's business, and gives you a clean set of surfaces to work from when gluing or inlaying repairs. I've lost count of how many grimy old singleshot stocks I've done this way. Nothing can beat it.

I'm still in the doghouse for cleaning up a pair of cylinder heads off a Harley shovelhead in her dishwasher. A guy's got to do what a guy's got to do though... :wink:


As you may have guessed mine is missing the rod, it was also missing the rear sight I have replaced the rear sight I am now looking for a rod, no hurry but I am in the process of refurbishing the whole rifle including the wood and all the lettering including the Chinese scroll on the barrel.

Sounds like a neat project. I hope to see it some time. If I happen across the proper rod I'll be sure to let you know.


Might be tough to find a dishwasher that would hold that long forearm. And if you only did the buttstock then the forearm might be tough to ever get a matching finish on. I'd use acetone and whitening powder to pull out oils from the wood if i wanted to refinish the stocks. But personally I think refinishing the wood is a bad choice. It will ruin the value of this old gun, and I'd choose to do a careful stock repair and try to match that to the existing wood, not make it all look new.
Now if the plan is to use this action and do a complete build, then all that doesn't matter. But I'd rather keep it as it is since there's fewer and fewer original Borchardts out there.

"First, do no harm" - especially on an old piece like this. I want to keep it as original as possible but also see how well I can get it to perform. Kind of contrary but I'll try and balance it out the best I can.


I believe before refinishing the original wood I would call tree bone or BRC rifle company and order new wood in the grade desired and fit and finish it to pretty and set the originals back as is. If you going to do a complete build then it the new wood is a plus also

I was looking over some ads in the latest Black Powder Cartridge news and Single Shot Exchange the other night and started to consider seeing what it would cost to get a replacement stock and forend. Thats about as far as I've gone with that at this point. Seems to make plenty of sense.

I'm a little unsure of just what direction I am going to take this rifle. I like the idea of a competition shooter, the only problem being is I live in the "black hole" of competition shooting far eastern Nebraska. Not a whole lot going on around here that I know of anyway. Be a shame to get it all gussied up with no place to go.

I could just patch it up as well as possible and just shoot it for enjoyment and to make others at the range jealous. :mrgreen: On the other end of the spectrum I could also take it apart and draw up plans to fabricate a new one from scratch. That would be a neat project to keep me in the shop and out of trouble for a while, not that I have the time right now but the possibility is there.

-Ron

[Don McDowell]

Depending on where in eastern Nebraska you are I suppose, but there are some matches just across the South Dakota and Kansas borders where you could use that rifle. Plus the Alliance Rifle Club host's 3 big matches a year, plus monthly matches usually starting in April at their Hoffland range 10 miles east of Alliance. There also have been rumors of some matches getting fired up and going on a range down around Grand Island, but I haven't seen anything official as of yet.

[Gewehr-Guy]

That rifle should be OK to compete in the Cast Bullet Assn. matches in Sioux City. I used a Swedish 1867 rolling block in one of their matches, also present was a trapdoor and a 71/84 Mauser. If your rifle has a bayonet lug , it should qualify as a military issue rifle.

I'm not sure of this year's shoot dates, with all the virus disruptions, but if you want info, I can get you in touch with someone that runs the shoot.

[beshears]

I have a MVA tang sight for Borchart and works fine. It extends behind the metal over the wood.

[Bent Ramrod]

I found a Borchardt military wreck in much worse condition than the one pictured. I patched the wood up as best I could, stained the patches so they matched the grungy brown of the original and let it go at that.

The bore was so clogged with rust it couldn’t let a cleaning patch through. I lined it with an 18” twist TJ liner and chambered it back to .45-70.

I found the missing sight slider and am still looking for something for the receiver sling ring. The cleaning rod was gone, and loose ones are rare and expensive. I faked up the tip from Internet pictures with a lathe, drills, tap and knurling tool, and screwed on a piece of 3/16” steel rod, threading the other end to fit the first section of a modern takedown cleaning rod handle. The rod, as it fits under the barrel, is too short to push all the way through for cleaning.

The target models that used tang sights had the rear tang milled out for a detachable extra long tang, with integral sight base, that was held in the mortise by a screw. I have a casting for the base, but didn’t have the heart to machine the receiver. Borchardts in any original condition are rare. Maybe I’ll add the base to my overpolished varmint rifle receiver when I shoot the barrel out, and remake it into a Long Range blackpowder gun. It’s the only way I’d ever be able to afford one.

Mine shoots 540 grain grease grooves and 525 gr paper patch boolits very well with black powder, but that light rifle really backs off that boolit a right smart! Brings tears of joy to my eyes! :mrgreen:

[ScrapMetal]

Depending on where in eastern Nebraska you are I suppose, but there are some matches just across the South Dakota and Kansas borders where you could use that rifle. Plus the Alliance Rifle Club host's 3 big matches a year, plus monthly matches usually starting in April at their Hoffland range 10 miles east of Alliance. There also have been rumors of some matches getting fired up and going on a range down around Grand Island, but I haven't seen anything official as of yet.

I live outside of Omaha, so I'm as far from both south and north borders as I can be. My son's girlfriend is from Alliance and he's up there all the time but it's a 6 1/2 hours drive. :???: Grand Island would n't be bad though so I'll keep my fingers crossed.


That rifle should be OK to compete in the Cast Bullet Assn. matches in Sioux City. I used a Swedish 1867 rolling block in one of their matches, also present was a trapdoor and a 71/84 Mauser. If your rifle has a bayonet lug , it should qualify as a military issue rifle.

I'm not sure of this year's shoot dates, with all the virus disruptions, but if you want info, I can get you in touch with someone that runs the shoot.

I can do Sioux City. When you mentioned it I pulled up their 2020 match schedules. I also see that there are some matches down in Kansas City area that might be worth consideration. Thanks much for pointing me in that direction. Even if I don't have the Borchardt ready I can always use my Shiloh Sharps, Lone Star Rolling Block, and I'm pretty sure I still have an imported Sharps as well as a Browning High Wall somewhere (I'm kind of losing track of my "inventory" :mrgreen:)


I found a Borchardt military wreck in much worse condition than the one pictured. I patched the wood up as best I could, stained the patches so they matched the grungy brown of the original and let it go at that.

The bore was so clogged with rust it couldn’t let a cleaning patch through. I lined it with an 18” twist TJ liner and chambered it back to .45-70.

I found the missing sight slider and am still looking for something for the receiver sling ring. The cleaning rod was gone, and loose ones are rare and expensive. I faked up the tip from Internet pictures with a lathe, drills, tap and knurling tool, and screwed on a piece of 3/16” steel rod, threading the other end to fit the first section of a modern takedown cleaning rod handle. The rod, as it fits under the barrel, is too short to push all the way through for cleaning.

The target models that used tang sights had the rear tang milled out for a detachable extra long tang, with integral sight base, that was held in the mortise by a screw. I have a casting for the base, but didn’t have the heart to machine the receiver. Borchardts in any original condition are rare. Maybe I’ll add the base to my overpolished varmint rifle receiver when I shoot the barrel out, and remake it into a Long Range blackpowder gun. It’s the only way I’d ever be able to afford one.

Mine shoots 540 grain grease grooves and 525 gr paper patch boolits very well with black powder, but that light rifle really backs off that boolit a right smart! Brings tears of joy to my eyes! :mrgreen:

I love the sound of that rifle, fits my sense of aesthetics to a "T".

-Ron