View Full Version : Anyone tried HBN?
jaysouth
03-12-2020, 01:01 PM
I add a 9mm case full of Hex boron nitride powder to an ounce of Kroil. I get a difficult aluminum mold up to casting temp and apply the kroil tothe cavities with a Q-tip then cool. I repeat this two or three times and the mold starts releasing bullets like they were spring loaded.
After several hundred bullets, i repeat treatment. It has given new life to old molds which were sticky in the past.
I have not yet tried this on Iron molds.
Careful handling HBN, particles are smaller than pores in your skin.
swheeler
03-12-2020, 06:30 PM
I've been adding it to PC paint
Burnt Fingers
03-13-2020, 05:56 PM
If I have a balky mold of any material I find a light smoking with a BBQ lighter solves the problem.
gwpercle
03-13-2020, 07:08 PM
I have been using Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , L512 - 4 oz. bottle of the liquid , apply with a Q-Tip,
$2.99 at local auto parts store...lifetime supply.
I use it just like you do and boolits jump out the once balky mould .
After a feww treatments the mould doesn't balk any more .
Has got to be cheaper than HBN + Kroil and it can't work any better .
Gary
jaysouth
03-13-2020, 07:47 PM
I have been using Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , L512 - 4 oz. bottle of the liquid , apply with a Q-Tip,
$2.99 at local auto parts store...lifetime supply.
I use it just like you do and boolits jump out the once balky mould .
After a feww treatments the mould doesn't balk any more .
Has got to be cheaper than HBN + Kroil and it can't work any better .
Gary
Thanks, Kroil and HBN are not cheap
GhostHawk
03-13-2020, 10:04 PM
gwpercle nailed it post #4.
Bought a single 4 oz bottle 4 years ago. 3 drops on a q-tip will do a lee 6 cavity mold and sprue plate.
Lasts a LONG time. But when they start sticking the mold gets treated again when it is cool.
The liquid evaporates long before the mold ever comes up to temp. Does a good job of cleaning, removing old smoke, etc.
Does not migrate at all. Boolits "rain" out with a single light tap or a shake.
Toughest of them all was my lee 7/6ths oz 12 ga slug with the drive key. That drive key did not want to release.
I was on the road to beating my mold to pieces when I discovered this. The first 2 or 3 may require a healthy tap. The rest come easy.
It is so easy, so simple, and so cheap I see no reason to try anything else. YMMV
cabezaverde
03-14-2020, 09:22 AM
I have been using Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , L512 - 4 oz. bottle of the liquid , apply with a Q-Tip,
$2.99 at local auto parts store...lifetime supply.
I use it just like you do and boolits jump out the once balky mould .
After a feww treatments the mould doesn't balk any more .
Has got to be cheaper than HBN + Kroil and it can't work any better .
Gary
Is the mold hot when you apply it?
GhostHawk
03-14-2020, 09:32 PM
Nope, I apply to cold mold. Q-tip goes into each cavity, runs the vent lines by the time I am on cavity 2 or 3 you can no longer tell cavity 1 was wet 10 seconds ago. This stuff evaporates on room temp metal but leaves a dry film behind.
jaysouth
03-15-2020, 05:17 PM
I've been adding it to PC paint
So, you are using after the bullet has been cast. Does adding it to PC powder give you more velocity?
gwpercle
03-16-2020, 04:54 PM
Is the mold hot when you apply it?
I usually apply to a cool mould . The dry lube is alcohol based and will evaporate quickly on a hot mould . Now before storing a cool mould I give all the surfaces a coat , even the sprue plate surfaces . No rust has ever developed and when you want to cast ...the mould is ready to go .
Gary
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.