View Full Version : 45/70 case stretching problem
I hope someone can give me some guidance.
I have a Pedersoli RB that I have shortened 45/90 Starline brass for and after firing the brass is stretching approximately 0.012”. Not all but most.
I made a chamber cast and as best I can tell the length of the chamber is 2.129” which is the same as a Pedersoli chamber drawing I found somewhere. Also I don’t see a throat as it appears that the lands come all the way to the chamber end which has a taper (from chamber end) less than 45*. Possibly around 10+* as per Pedersoli’s drawing. I might add that what appears to be lands at the chamber very well might be the 1* or so lead angle.
The rim thickness on the Starline brass is around 0.066”. So I assumed that allowing for the .0.004” headspace due to rim thickness I’d better use 2.125” as my max chamber length. So I trimmed to 2.122” just in case it shortened some after firing. This brass had been fire formed previously and lengthened some then also.
My load is 82gr OE 2f with a 0.063” poly wad with around 0.100” compression with a 513 gr baco 441” patched to .449” bullet. BTW this load is shooting around 2 moa at 100 yds or better with a few fliers so I’m happy with that! I did not size the fire formed brass other than the slight taper crimp.
After firing most of the cases measured 2.130-134”. At this point I don’t know if I need to trim to 2.129” or trim shorter or what to stop this case stretching. Or maybe it will stop now? Also I didn’t notice any mouth curl due to the cases stretch forward. I’ve read that poly wads can cause this but I don’t know. Also this brass might have been anealed but I can’t remember due to this projects been on the back burner for a few years.
I think I’ve given all the info I have. Any help will be appreciated.
JD
Bent Ramrod
03-08-2020, 10:18 AM
They will do that. The paper (in the absence of a lube cookie) grabs the case mouth as the boolit slugs up, and drags it forward into the leade.
A less-than-bone-dry chamber aggravates this, and longer cases stretch more, in proportion as well as frequency. I’ve had one .45-70 case separation with paper patch loads, a half-dozen (at least) with .40-90 3-1/4 Straight.
You can counter this by making sure the chamber is dry after wiping, using a lube cookie, or dusting or rubbing the base of the PPB with graphite or mica before inserting it into the case mouth. But I still watch the shell lengths and mouths after every firing.
I think I had the case length due to the 0.004” headspace backwards in my old head. I think I should have added the 0.004” to the 2.129” giving 2.133” as max chamber length. Maybe what’s happening is upon firing the case after going rearward is stretching forward 0.004” (0.004+2.122=2.126”) and still being short it’s stretching forward to the chamber end. That makes sense to me anyway.
BR,
Thanks I’ll try that.
I think now the brass is stretching to the end of the chamber at 2.134” and that’s the reason I haven’t seen any indication of mouth curl on the brass. What do you think? Also if that’s true what should I trim the cases? If I trim to 2.133” do you think I’ll have a problem with the case stretching forward causing curl at the mouth?
Lead pot
03-08-2020, 11:03 AM
JDNC,
BR has it pretty straight.
I would trim the fired unsized cases .005" short of the chamber end. This will allow for head space movement. Also if you full length size the case it gets longer than a unsized fired case and this will make it long enough to extend unto the throat and tightens the case neck on the bullet stretching the case some. This is amplified with freshly annealed soft cases. A case 5-6 thousands short of the chamber transition 10 degree or 45 degree is also a plus reducing verticals do to uneven bullet release pressure.
Unchamfered case mouth will grab the paper and pull the case. Shooting a PP bullet without lube, I do this, has a tendency to grab the case if the bullet is seated deeper than needed because of the friction but it's not a problem for me because I don't anneal my brass but once when I get new cases.
Kurt
Lead pot,
I don’t FL size so I just think I subtracted when I should have been adding maybe.
So, based on a chamber length of 2.129” not including 0.004”+ due to headspace what would you suggest as trim length.
After I get this correct I’ll deal with different wads and such if this continues. I will say that my chamber was dry as I wipe the chamber thoroughly after cleaning the barrel and also the brass was sparkling clean on the inside. But I think I will try some mica on the patch that’s inside the case as BR suggested IF it continues. I don’t want to try more than one change at a time so I know what cured the problem.
Thanks for your input,
JD
I purchased this rifle several years ago. It’s a Pedersoli John Bodine 45/70 34” barrel. I shot some greasers in it and put it in the safe. I’ve retired now and have time to mess with it so I got it out with the intention s of shooting pp. I have a lot of experience with pp in smokeless but I’m just plum ignorant when it comes to BPCR. I don’t even know what to expect in ref to case stretching with these.
I don’t shoot competition but love to target shoot. I’ve got a buddy in Va that has a 3’x22’ steel target at 830 yds and I would love to ring that bad boy this summer!
I have never fired a round of BP in a 45-70. However never had significant case stretching.
and I have been loading and shooting the 45-70 with light smokeless loads since 1972. I have one box of brass that has been fired in 7 or 8 different rifles and reloaded about 30 times. They have not been trimmed much even though the primer pockets are now loose from having so many primers seated in them.
I suspect your compressed BP charge with its sharp grains is grabbing your case walls when fired.
I have read many accounts on this site, as well as the BPCR sites and single shot sites, of case stretching and tube pull offs. The tube pull offs seem to also be associated with cannelured brass.
Those accounts always involve black powder. I have never heard of a tube pull off or a case stretching problem in the 45-70 when using smokeless. I have personal experience shooting 11 different 45-70s. One was a bolt rifle the rest were single shots. One is a Pedersoli 1874 Sharps replica.
EDG,
My experience with smokeless is somewhat the same. I also agree with you in ref to the powder and patch grabbing the case wall. I guess what I’d like to know is if I trim near the chamber length will this stop some of it. 0.013” every firing the brass isn’t going to last long.
Thanks for your input,
JD
I do not have an exact answer for you.
You might try FL sizing the cases so they can expand a little when fired. You may still get a little stretching.
Were it my ammo I would polish the cases after firing so they are smooth and clean on the interior to reduce friction with the powder and wad.
My experience with chamber length brass was with a 6.5 Mannlicher. I trimmed formed .303 Brit brass to the exact length of the chamber in a 6.5 Dutch Mannlicher rifle. Those cases actually jammed against the front edge of the chamber. This is not accepted conventional practice so proceed with caution. With this combination the cases actually got shorter by .004 to .007 on the fire forming shot.
Lead pot
03-08-2020, 01:45 PM
You have a good chamber cast just trim the case .005" short of the chamber end.
I don't think I would use a Mica lube. That stuff has an abrasive in it like alumia and silica about 45% especially with a PP bullet. But it might brighten the bore using it :)
sharpsguy
03-08-2020, 02:11 PM
The poly wad is the problem. It expands radially and grips the case wall tight enough to stretch the case on the way out. Try a Walters wad or one cut from a milk carton or cereal box and you will solve your problem. These wads do not expand radially upon firing.
MikeT
03-08-2020, 02:42 PM
The poly wad is the problem. It expands radially and grips the case wall tight enough to stretch the case on the way out. Try a Walters wad or one cut from a milk carton or cereal box and you will solve your problem. These wads do not expand radially upon firing.
My experience with a 40 2.5 Sharps is the same a sharpsguy. With 0.060 poly wads in BA stretched 30-40 Krage brass, and gg bullets I had many case separations. Fiber wads or cork wads solved the issue.
How deep is your PP bullet set into the case? Normally I set my PP bullets about 1/10th of an inch into the case. Even with a poly wad under the bullet, I can not imagine the wad having a lot to grab onto.
Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT
my current BPCR/TR gun is another pedersoli sharps that started its life as a .40-65 and has been fully relined (bbl and custom PPB chamber) for a custom reformed .45-70 PPB cartridge (to fit the new PPB chamber). i have reloaded brass in that gun that started out four u/s cleanings ago, no stretching - yet! my PPBs (BACO JIM443530E) are set almost loose into their .45-70 case mouth a scant 1/10", over a .060" LDPE wad, over 80 grains of drop tube compacted swiss 1-1/2f, under light 1/16" compression. i check the brass with analog calipers and a wilson micrometer trim gauge. maybe stretching will happen, dunno. all brass is left fire formed, ultra-sonic cleaned with much added attention to the case insides, then loaded back up.
Well, back inside after a beautiful afternoon shooting and I can’t think of one word to describe my felling other than disgusted. Lol
In all my 50+ years of handloading I’ve never seen anything like it.
Again my load is 82 gr OE 2f drop tubed with a 0.060” poly wad compressed about 0.080” or so leaving me 0.100” for seating of a BACO 441520M patched to 0.449” with 16:1 alloy. Using Starline 45/90 brass shortened.
Last week I was getting about 1’ groups at 50 yds due to gas cutting with a 0.060 veg wad. I then cut me some 0.063” wads from a food grade bucket lid and placed it on top of the veg wad and that stopped the gas cutting and all was well and it began giving 2 moa and less groups. So I continued to fire form the brass noticing that it was stretching pretty bad (.008” .012”).
Today I’ve tried every combination of poly, cork, and veg wads and I’m getting a consistent 0.012” stretching. I also tried a max case length and trimmed one to 2.1” and still the same consistent 0.012” stretch. Also I noticed that every case fired (second firing) had a bright ring at the web indicating separating at the head. So this brass is gone! This brass was sparkling clean inside and I also brushed it inside to see if that would work.
I have some Win 45/70 brass that measures 2.098” that I will try next to see if it’s a soft lot of brass or something. I might try veggie fiber wads again but I don’t think they’ll seal enough to stop gas cutting. The cork stock I have is 0.125” and pretty soft. I have to admit I haven’t tried any combination using just card wads yet. Also I made double sure the chamber was dry.
Beats me, but brass is pretty expensive! Lol
Just can’t get my head wrapped around this one.
JD
One other thing which I don’t think was a cause but I’ll mention it is that I was using ballistol just a squirt in a container with water that I wet my patches in. Probably 500:1. But it was patched out until the patches squeaked and grabbed in the bore and the chamber separately patched with a clean dry patch.
Lead pot
03-08-2020, 09:50 PM
If your getting a bright ring around the web at the base that is a good sign of head space problems or a bad lot of brass. Eventually you will get this.
In my case it was the brass when it was drawn.
258270258271
indian joe
03-09-2020, 01:08 AM
The poly wad is the problem. It expands radially and grips the case wall tight enough to stretch the case on the way out. Try a Walters wad or one cut from a milk carton or cereal box and you will solve your problem. These wads do not expand radially upon firing.
I am shooting High DensityPE wads (cant locate the Low density stuff downunder) would you expect the same - similar - less - nil - effect?
Grease boolits though
Lead pot,
That’s exactly what I’ve got with two firings! I’ve got some Win 45/70 brass that I’m going to experiment with before I buy more brass.
indian joe,
I’ve tried both and had same results. I thought the HD would be better but I couldn’t tell any difference.
It’s remarkable to me how consistent the stretch is. I mean 8 out of 10 will stretch dead nuts 0.012” some a little more. Doesn’t matter if they’re trimmed a max length or 2.1”.
If I have this with the Win brass I’m going to try combinations of card wads and see what happens. At this point I don’t think it’s headspace in the gun. I sure don’t think pressures are high enough to spring the bolt back either. But I’ve been wrong before.
Well boys and girls I think I found the problem with the help of all of you.
After Lead pots pictures I got to thinking that the location of the separation ring is where most brass separates due to headspace. So I decided to try and check the headspace with what little I have to do so.
A rolling block as most know pivots from the bottom and the last part of the block to get to the barrel is the top of the block. So I decided I’d use some plastic guage to check that closure but I could find it in my shop so I just used some folded aluminum foil instead.
I placed it at the top of the barrel and closed the block pushing hard and continued folding the aluminum foil until I just felt drag while lowering the hammer. I repeated this several times while measuring with my digital calipers which by no means is the best but good enough for a start.
After several measurements I got 0.012” ....exactly the length of my case stretching! Once I measured 0.013”. I’m now convinced that I have a headspace problem.
I purchased this gun new several years ago and remember shimming the left side of the sight base to get the sight staff plum. I also remember that if i looked very closely that it appeared that the barrel had not been completely turned enough to align the top of the barrel flats perpendicular to the sides of the action. Not a lot but maybe enough to close most of this headspace.
I really think that maybe this might be all that’s needed to correct this problem provided there is enough room in the extractor slot to allow the barrel to be turned enough.
I don’t know who to contact with Pedersoli as I think they should repair it under warranty but my gut tells me to source out a reputable gunsmith.
I would appreciate any gunsmith recommendations.
Thanks,
JD
Lead pot
03-09-2020, 10:01 AM
You might check with Lee Shaver. He used to be a Pedersoli repair or still is.
i absolutely concur with LP - if at all possible, have lee give it a look, he's one of the best at the single shot 'smith game (and no slouch as a national and international match winner). lee did the bbl/chamber makeover on my pedersoli sharps and he did an outstanding job.
Still in the process of diagnosing this problem. Upon further investigation the method I was using to check headspace was incorrect. The hammer when down has the breach block locked solid. I’m going to try another way to check it.
As for a gunsmith if needed I will take your recommendations and try to contact Mr. Shaver.
I did load the 45/70 win brass today with 78gr OE with two 0.060” fiber wads and shot it. It stretched 0.005”. As its fire formed now I’ll load it again and see what happens. I sure would like the problem to be soft drawn brass lik Lead pot found but I’m usually not that lucky!
Thanks for all your input,
JD
Well today I took that same win case and continued testing. I ultra sonic cleaned after every shot.
The original coal was 2.102” prior to the first firing and after the first firing stretched 0.005” to 2.107”.
My second firing was with the same load (78gr.OE and 2x .060 fiber wads again stretching 0.005” to 2.112”.
Third loading I only changed the wad stack. I used 1x .030” fiber + 1x .125” cork. Again stretched 0.005” to 2.117”.
Forth firing was a duplicate of the third with only 0.001” stretch, to 2.118”!
At this point I checked the thickness of the case wall from mouth to web using a dial indicator and found no dip before the web indicating to me anyway that the street was uniform along the case wall. So I decided to change up things.
The fifth firing I used the powder charge tp 80 grs and and used one 0.060” low density poly wad. After firing the case stretched 0.005” again to 2.123”.
One the sixth firing I used the same 80 gr charge of powder but went back to the 1x.030” fiber and 0.125” cork wad stack. After firing the case stretched only 0.001” again bring the case pal to 2.124”.
Apparently there is something different with this brass compared to the Starline shortened brass. Also it appears that the poly wads are stretching the brass more than the fiber and cork wad stack in my rifle. So far, a fiber wad alone will not seal enough to prevent gas cutting in my rifle. I don’t really care for such a thick cork wad but that’s the only stock I have. I’m waiting on some Napa rubber/cork wad to try. Hopefully the Starline brass I was using was a soft lot and that headspace is not my problem after all. Anyway, brass stretching 0.012” and separating after only two firings is a lot different from what I was experiencing today!
Any input appreciated
JD
dave roelle
03-11-2020, 09:32 AM
Are you doing anything to assure a smooth/clean interior case surface ?
Yes, im also brushing the interior. Now, I’m not polishing if that’s what you mean.
Today I fire formed using a lube cookie and had no blow by or leading. Shot very good too and only stretched about 0.005”.
dave roelle
03-12-2020, 07:54 AM
Try a polish with 0000 steel wool turned by electric drill on a wooden dowel the dowel needs a longitudinal saw cut to retain the wool. THEN
Apply a very very light coat of johnsons paste wax when you wrap your patch(dry wrap)
I take the additional step of sizing after wax application
I cant measure any stretch after 10 or more loadings on the same brass (remington)
Some old line paper patch shooters apply a bit of powdered graphite to the inside of the case after powder charging
Have a very close look at the inside rim of your cases for a "wire rolled edge"
Dave
Dave, thanks I’ll try that.
Recently, I’ve found that a grease cookie made of thin card material (.013”) and .125” lube is sealing the chamber enough to prevent any blow back around the case mouth and very little case stretching. Actually yesterday I found some had not stretched at all or maybe a thousandth.
That just blows my mind as I have never understood how it actually works. I guess it’s some hydraulic thing, but it works for sure. I even had a group around moa at 100 yesterday. That’s saying a lot for this old guy!
I didn’t want to mess with lube as that’s what I liked about pp target that a lot of guys are just using some wad combination or poly wads and having no troubles. I guess I might be doomed to cookies.
Dave is your chamber a standard gg chamber?
I also tried a .060” fiber with 1/16” Napa rubberized cork and I’m back to gas cutting!
What are you defining as gas cutting?
If you are concerned about blow by around the case mouth you can leave it belled. Even better is to anneal the cases about 1/2" back from the case mouths.
Rather than crimping my unsized cases I FL size. My die sizes and excessive amount so I expand my cases with an expander that is the same size as my bullets which can vary between .458 and .462. That means i have a lot of different expanders from Track of the Wolf.
My cast bullets are only held in place by the amount of spring back of the cases when the cases are expanded to match the exact bullet diameter.
You can also shoot even larger diameter bullets with low pressure loads to improve gas sealing.
I have had good accuracy with bullets up to .462 (.004" oversize). The only negative is the ring of lead foil left at the case mouth when the case is extracted. For those not familiar with the lead foil ring at the case mouth - it occurs when the driving bands are shaved off as the soft oversize bullet is forced into the rifling.
What are you defining as gas cutting?
If you are concerned about blow by around the case mouth you can leave it belled. Even better is to anneal the cases about 1/2" back from the case mouths.
Rather than crimping my unsized cases I FL size. My die sizes and excessive amount so I expand my cases with an expander that is the same size as my bullets which can vary between .458 and .462. That means i have a lot of different expanders from Track of the Wolf.
My cast bullets are only held in place by the amount of spring back of the cases when the cases are expanded to match the exact bullet diameter.
You can also shoot even larger diameter bullets with low pressure loads to improve gas sealing.
I have had good accuracy with bullets up to .462 (.004" oversize). The only negative is the ring of lead foil left at the case mouth when the case is extracted. For those not familiar with the lead foil ring at the case mouth - it occurs when the driving bands are shaved off as the soft oversize bullet is forced into the rifling.
I’m patching to bore with a baco 441520m (I think that’s the right #) with #9 onion skin paper. If I get gas cutting the paper will be black and I get leading not to mention the bullet will go off target. So I can’t really leave a bell as I’m not belling the case. I actually have to taper crimp the mouth of the case so the 0.449” pp bullet won’t fall out as it’s only seated 0.100” in the case.
I have what I guess you’d call a GG throat. A gradual taper from chamber end into the barrel. I’ve tried fiber, poly (LD&HD), cork, rubberized cork, and paper wads and with all I get some blow back on the case. Not all give me gas cutting but my best accuracy has been with a 0.125” grease cookie with 0.0013” paper wad top and bottom. No particular reason for the wad thickness, I just had some card material handy. But I have absolutely no blow by with the cookie.
I know I could try patching to groove but for now I’m still experimenting with patching to bore. I’m also keeping my eye on case stretching because I was having some trouble with some Starline 45/90 brass I had shortened for my 45/70 chamber. I now think it was a bad lot of brass. I sure hope so, as I first thought it was a headspace problem.
I might add I’m fire forming new brass during all this.
I decided today I’d give LD poly another try.
I loaded 83hr of OE 2f in both a shortened Starline 45/90 case and also a WW 45/70 case both had been fire formed. In the 45/90 case I used one 0.060” ld poly wad and in the WW 45/70 case I used a 0.060” fiber and topped it off with a 0.060” ld poly. I also might add I polished the interior of these case to a mirror finish to see if that would help. Bullet seated 0.1” as previously.
Both cases after firing stretched over 0.010” and the 45/90 case had blow by. Also I had a trace of lead on a patch. I guess right now the only thing that works with a bore patched bullet in my gun is the addition of a grease cookie. I may try a softer alloy at some point but right now I’m going to use up my 16:1.
I may also try groove patched in the future, but I’m not giving up on the bore patched just yet. I know some have posted that poly wads stretch brass and I have to agree. At least in some chambers.
I decided today I’d give LD poly another try.
I loaded 83hr of OE 2f in both a shortened Starline 45/90 case and also a WW 45/70 case both had been fire formed. In the 45/90 case I used one 0.060” ld poly wad and in the WW 45/70 case I used a 0.060” fiber and topped it off with a 0.060” ld poly. I also might add I polished the interior of these case to a mirror finish to see if that would help. Bullet seated 0.1” as previously.
Both cases after firing stretched over 0.010” and the 45/90 case had blow by. Also I had a trace of lead on a patch. I guess right now the only thing that works with a bore patched bullet in my gun is the addition of a grease cookie. I may try a softer alloy at some point but right now I’m going to use up my 16:1.
I may also try groove patched in the future, but I’m not giving up on the bore patched just yet. I know some have posted that poly wads stretch brass and I have to agree. At least in some chambers.
are you in any manner crimping both the PPB and the LDPE wad?
i ask because my sharps will only load custom reformed .45-70 brass (modified lyman .45-70 sizing die) and therefore will only load/shoot PPBs. i use starline brass that's been chamber oriented and fire formed in my sharps. the ultra sonic cleaned (INside and out) case gets drop filled with 78 grains of swiss 1-1/2f and then a .060" LDPE wad is thumb seated just past the rim and press die compressed to .1" below the case mouth. the .443" slick gets wrapped to .4493" in diameter and that presents a very loose fit into the loaded brass, so a stock lyman taper crimp die is used to very slightly close the case mouth. this allows the PPB to rotate and be pulled out and pushed back in using fingers. i get near zero case elongation, even after at least five reloads/firings. all fired brass is left as is, other than u/s cleaning. very little neck tension may be the reason for not being concerned over fired case length ... ?
dave roelle
03-16-2020, 03:30 PM
Standard Shiloh chamber :)
Rfd,
I’ve been using a short taper crimp die and I can’t reme the manufacture as I’ve got so many dies out that I’m trying. But I will say that I’ve even used no crimp and I get stretch with the poly wads.
After the trouble with the Starline brass I thought I’d try some 45/70 WW brass I had on hand. I had fired one single case several times and just for giggles yesterday I tried it again with the poly wad and used that short taper crimp die to just close the mouth enough to hole the ppl in. Actually it still wiggled a little. This case was not FL sized. It stretched again over 0.010”.
I did notice that this die (shot neck sizing)was actually burnishing the case down about half way to get to this point of crimp. I thought I might use a Lee FCD so I tried that but I didn’t like that at all. I have a Redding neck size die but it won’t close the mouth enough on fire formed win brass.
I had 9 new WW cases today remaining to be fire formed. I loaded them with 80gr OE 2f with a paper card op wad with 0.125” lube and another card wad. Powder was compressed approximately 0.1” leaving the same for the bullet. These six give me a little over an inch group at 50 yds. Not great but no fliers. These cases stretched from 2-5 thousands.
With this chamber I may be better off just FL sizing because it’s easier to but a slight taper crimp. It appears that I’m sizing more when attempting to use the taper crimp on a unsized fire formed case. As for the case stretching, every time I use the poly wads I get excessive stretching that never stops. And with all other wads like cork and fiber I get gas blow by unless I use a lube cookie.
Cast some baco #442530E today with 16:1 and with #9 onion they are 0.450-.4505” and feel firm when seating. It’ll come together sometime I hope. If not I’ll patch to groove and try that.
BTW
It appears after two firings with lube cookies the stretching stops or is only a thousandth or two.
Where did you get the modified taper crimp die?
JDNC, i'm not experienced or smart enuf to understand yer case stretching, but i'd say the biggest difference 'tween yer gun and mine is the chamber, where i need to reform my starline brass in a modified sizing die to fit my gun's chamber. as to the "modified" lyman taper crimp die, that was my mistake, it's stock and not modified in any way. it was the lyman sizing die that required machine shop modification so that the die could be used for reforming .45-70 brass.
Rfd,
I’m familiar with what some call the pp chamber and understand how much easier that would be. I actually shot this rifle with gg bullets and I can’t remember having any stretching problems.
I’d really like to get away from the whole lube/grease thing but I might not be able to with this chamber. The WW brass is not particularly my choice, that’s just all I had on hand to try after the stretching trouble with the Starline 45/90 brass. I have noticed is that it has a lot of capacity. I really think I had some soft brass with the Starline and compounded that problem with the poly wads. I’m going to order more Starline brass but I think since I’m not having any problems at the chamber end I going to order 45/70 brass as it’s half the price of the 45/90. I don’t want to waste time shortening it anyway and don’t see the need. I have a bench-source annealer but I don’t really think that annealing brass is going to help much either with ppb. I may look at that later.
After the brass mouth is fire formed to my 0.480” chamber the standard taper crimp dies size too much down the case before closing the mouth to hold the bullet, I think. That’s the reason I think I might just as well FL size if I’m going to reduce half the length of the case anyway. But l like not sizing the brass as I did using gg bullets.
Today I’m going to try a 30/06 FL and a 45acp taper crimp die to see if they will taper the mouth more sharply. All except 9 cases are fire formed and I need to decide if I’m going to FL size or not so I can get back the wad and cookie thing.
BTW, I’ve followed you on YouTube and you’re pretty smooth with those baco wipes. I tried them but couldn’t get my barrel quite clean enough. I made up some of the critters with the nylon brushes and they are harder to push through but clean the barrel quite well.
JDNC, if i had to size .45-70 brass after each firing and resort to using a lube cookie, that'd be a serious problem for me and really put a bad crimp in my .45-70 fun.
the BACO wipes did the job for me, but brent's gophers are much better for sure.
https://i.imgur.com/dh41fQJ.jpg
rfd,
I took the delrin oring ends off the baco wipes and put them on the gophers before I found neoprene washers and nylon nuts and other that adding a little extra length they worked fine.
JDNC, i thought of doing that, too, but then decided to sell them rather than cannibalize them :)
plus, the components i use for building brent's gophers work extremely well and are cheap enuf.
I checked to see if I could use a 30/06 FL die tomclose down the mouth but the case wont quite go in. I also tried a Dillon 45acp taper crimp die. It will just begin to enter the die but I haven’t tried it yet. I might have some other die to try and I’m still looking. Haven’t given up yet.
rfd,
In ref to the bore gophers, are you wetting just the front felt or both?
all gophers go for a swim in plain tap water, and after a shot is taken one is plucked out, shaken (but not stirred), pushed past the chamber, then a dry arsenal patch to follow, pushed out the muzzle into a pan of plain tap water.
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