Lee 4/20 pot nozzle temperature

[bazzer485]

Here’s something odd, my lee 4/20 pot heats up fine, but lead will not come through the nozzle until the temperature is 725 degrees. I use a PID which I know is accurate. It seems heat has a problem getting to the nozzle for some reason I can’t figure out.
Thanks
Barry

[facetious]

My old SAECO will do that if I try casting when it is to cool out. All I have to do is hit it with the propane torch on the nozzle till it flows and then your on your way.

[TjB101]

I use a small butane torch to heat up the nozzle ... I may have to do it twice during the first few throws, it then stays hot enough to work until the pot is empty.

[RydForLyf]

Here’s something odd, my lee 4/20 pot heats up fine, but lead will not come through the nozzle until the temperature is 725 degrees. I use a PID which I know is accurate. It seems heat has a problem getting to the nozzle for some reason I can’t figure out.
Thanks
Barry

The 725 is probably accurate, but where is the probe tip? If it is touching the pot wall right next to the heating element that might explain it. There’s also a possibility that there is a temp offset set in the PID so the 725 isn’t really 725. Have you tested it in boiling water?

My normal temp is 670 in the middle of the lead, so I’m interested to hear what you find out because I agree with you that 725 is high.

[Dusty Bannister]

While 725 might be high to some, my 4-20 is happy at that setting. The nozzle in the center of the pot is the furthest point from the heating element which encircles the pot about the middle of the sides. Heat goes up, ambient air temp cools the nozzle so if you have a breeze or a cold room, you may need to increase the heat. The temp probe is usually about a half inch or so from the side, and the tip is a half inch above the bottom of the pot so you do not read the pot but the alloy. I do not try to cast with the area less than 40 degrees for that reason as well as my own comfort. If the nozzle begins to pour slowly, I use a long nosed butane log lighter to just heat the tip of the nozzle and full flow returns. If you have copper in the melt, this can also collect at the nozzle and slow the flow. See if correcting any of these issues helps your pot work correctly. Dusty

[Bashby]

I’ve had to hit mine with a little butane torch I have. I think it’s butane anyway, uses those aerosol cans to refill it like a lighter. I got it at Walmart YEARS ago for $10 I think. 258160

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Different alloys have different melt/freeze temps.
Position of PID probe makes a big difference also.

I have my PID probe positioned as close to the spout (inside the pot) as possible. While COWW has a liquidus temp around 500º, it won't flow properly through the spout until my PID says the temperature is 610º or so, which is over 100º more than liquidus temp.

If you happen to be casting with pure lead, which has a liquidus temp of 621º, then depending on where your Probe is mounted, your temp of 725º, is likely in the ball park.