6 cav. moulds for .357 Sig and .45

[Castnshoot]

I'm new to casting, still don't have all my equipment yet. Still, I'm out and about garnering all pertinent information so when I do have it all, start off knowing what I'm doing. I am going to start casting wheel weights for my .357 Sig (G32) and .45 ACP (G30).

For the .357 Sig (G32), I'm between the 356-120-TC 90387 (conventional groove) and the TL356-124-TC 90402 (microgroove). What are the pros and cons of casting either? Either one more lube/sizer friendly, accurate, barrel friendly, than the other? I also wonder why there's no 147gr molds for the .357 Sig?

For the .45 ACP (G30), I'm undecided between 452-200-SWC, 452-200-RF, and TL452-200-SWC. All six cavities. I began to prep cases for this gun last night, as I have been loading primarily for the .357 Sig, and noticed that the SWC's I bought sit pretty long, any experiences with OAL with SWC in G30's?

[shotman]

In the sig you have to watch the OAL . That is a problem if the nose is long or the taper is too fast. Because of the short case to boolit area. I use the Lee TL 356-124 works good with titegroup and the 45 I like TL 452-200 and 5.5gr titegroup. dont remember the load on the sig. I bought a 1000 of the rem gold saber . I loaded some and the crimp was just above the off set on the bullet all the bullets fell inside the case. They are not fun to get out after the case is crimped. Check the boolits BEFORE you size they may do better in a glock out of the mold. My buddys 10mm does rick

[Castnshoot]

In the sig you have to watch the OAL . That is a problem if the nose is long or the taper is too fast. Because of the short case to boolit area. I use the Lee TL 356-124 works good with titegroup and the 45 I like TL 452-200 and 5.5gr titegroup. dont remember the load on the sig. I bought a 1000 of the rem gold saber . I loaded some and the crimp was just above the off set on the bullet all the bullets fell inside the case. They are not fun to get out after the case is crimped. Check the boolits BEFORE you size they may do better in a glock out of the mold. My buddys 10mm does rick

Thank God I don't have a problem loading the .357 Sig, that's what I started loading with. Done it for about five months already. The load I use now is 124gr LTC over 11.7gr of AA#9, but I have a batch to test loads starting at 10.5gr so I can find a load that uses less powder, cycles the action reliably, and is yet as accurate. I tested from 11.7gr to 13.0gr and the 11.7 came out on top for the lesser loads. Gotta tell you, that AA#9 is a hoot! Barely any recoil at any loading. The Lee Universal Expander Die has been my best friend, I had lots of trouble with die leading until I flared them all.

I bought a pound of Unique to use with both calibers, so I need to run tests again from minimum to maximum loads on the .357 Sig and now the .45 with this powder. I was going to get W231 for the .45, but if I can use Unique for both calibers, then that's what I'll do. Testing for flare/seat/OAL, when I put the SWC pretty much as far as it'll go before the top edge before the start of the base of the bullet itself (forgot the name of it), it looked pretty darn long. I didn't measure it nor did I run it through the gun, as I went to sleep. Still, should I worry if the OAL is less than 1.120? Today I will go ahead and run the action several times to check for chambering reliability and setback.

[Castnshoot]

How much taper crimp should I apply to the .45? Just enough for it to chamber well?

[Castnshoot]

Yeah, that was a dumb question. Anyways, how much can I expect Lee moulds to last me?

[yondering]

The Lee 45-200-RF might not be the best choice. It works in my 1911, but just barely, and that particular gun feeds almost anything. The nose of that boolit is really large; probably too big for most 45's. May or may not work in your Glock. It is, however, very accurate in my 1911.

[Castnshoot]

Might I have to go with the TC and RNFP?

[Castnshoot]

Alright, got my 200gr TL TC mould today. What, in your experience, is the best way to prep a mould for first time casting? MUST I lube it this time?

[osage]

castnshoot, I've had good luck cleaning my lee molds with brake cleaner. As for lube'n the mold pins I've just followed Lee's instructions. I'm at work now so as I recall bullet lube was used. I use soap stone on the top of the mold and bottom of sprue plate as another member suggested and as I had some available. I smoke the mold with wooden matches.
Bullshops Bull Plate Sprue Plate Lube is highly recommeded by many members here. You'll find Bullshops link at the bottom of the page.

[shotman]

Kroil is the only way to go

[Castnshoot]

The instructions said that, at least for the first time, use alcohol and a Qtip. That worked well, shoot, did it on my furnace too and was a little bit surprised....

I read the Bull's website, and I must say I really like what I see. Good people, good family. Anyways, it must be said generally that, whatever I lube with, I should dab the alignment pins, between the sprue plate and the top of the mould, and pivot points, whether I decide to lube the cavities or not. Am I correct?

[Springfield]

NEVER lube the cavities, you will get terrible fillout. Lube is for moving parts, the cavities don't move! Bullplate Sprue lube is the best stuff out there. I cast on small commercial basis and it is the only thing that works well for me without any buildup. As for service life, I have a couple of 44-40 moulds that have each done over 40,000 bullets and still work fine. Just remember to pre heat, keep the mould hot and lube the pivots and pins with bullplate.