M71 Browning won't fire

[244ack]

I recently picked up a Browning model 71 in 348 win and when I went to shoot it , it wont fire. Put in a new mainspring and made no difference. There is no indent on the primer at all. Firing pin moves freely and when i push the pin forward with my finger there is lots of protrusion.
Out of ideas on what the problem could be
Any ideas would be appreciated

[too many things]

most all newer lever action have a second safety on the lever
look and see if yours does
its a small pin and if you dont grip the lever to to close tight it wont fire

[1Hawkeye]

Is the hammer going all the way down when its released? If it is and the firing pin is floating as it should then it could be a headspace problem. I would pm John Taylor on here and see what he thinks.

[koger]

I have to ask, would this be CCI primers? I had a custom 308 rifle, I built myself on a Mauser action, and loaded some rounds the same as always, but used CCI primers, I had gotten at a local shop. Of the 20 rounds I had loaded, only 3 fired. Now keep in mind, I had put in a #26 striker spring, the original Mauser spring was 19#. There was not even a shiny spot or sign of a dent on those rounds. I went home and got some of my tried and true load using WLR primers, and it was business as usual. I called CCI and they told me it happened from time to time, to send them back and they would replace them. I thanked them. I then went out and loaded 3 rounds each, in 7 different calibers, guns, with the CCI primers, same result. I took what I had left, dumped them in a bucket of used motor oil to kill them, then disposed of them. I have not shot CCI since then, except for one try with their Bencrest primers, and got hangfires with them. Just asking in case.

[244ack]

Hammer falls all the way down and seems normal, maybe a little weak but normal. Thats why i replaced the mainspring but made no difference.
Use only Fed 210 primers in my leverguns, too many problems with CCI and the harder cups

[indian joe]

Thanks for the advice Joe, i will really check out the firing pin when I get back from work in a few weeks. Did you buy a one piece firing pin? Or is there some way to convert using the original pieces?

I converted it to solid - sorry cant really remember how I did that - and would have to strip the rifle to figure it out again - happy to offer suggestions if you pull yours down and send me pictures two things I do remember
1) I left the return spring IN at the front of the firing pin so it spring returns as well as the pin retracting with the lever stroke
2) rear end of firing pin on yours should have a smaller diameter button bit protruding (a bit over 1/8th diameter) out the centre of the firing pin? my gun that piece has been replaced with one with no notches and an extension of 85thou that contacts the hammer
Thats the end of the little blocker contraption. if you are going away for a bit - try dosing the gun with some crc or kroil or whatever is used for unlocking tight threads and such - put the gun on its back action open and squirt the stuff in side the firing pin along that little moveable bit and also along the firing pin channel as much as you can and leave it to run in - if this thing is seized up the problem is between the top of the firing pin and the breech bolt I think .

also I have infringed by my use of the b word in my post so proly gonna get banned for a month or beheaded or sumthin - so If ya see this might be the last of me.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
If your M71 has a rebounding hammer that no good lousy lawyer safety device could be causing your issue.
If your hammer "springs back" off the firing pin you are "blessed" with a rebounder that will cause you all sorts of grief until you cut it off.
Guess how I know about those.
Mike in LLama Land

[Rapidrob]

Take a pencil and drop it down the barrel on a closed breech. Aim the muzzle towards the ceiling. Pull the trigger. The pencil should be launched several inches up the barrel ( you'll hear it ) If so you have a problem other than the safeties.
Once you have found the problem, try the test again. Saves ammo and is safer to do.

[244ack]

Rapidrob- Thanks for the tip. I will try that

[244ack]

Good morning
If your M71 has a rebounding hammer that no good lousy lawyer safety device could be causing your issue.
If your hammer "springs back" off the firing pin you are "blessed" with a rebounder that will cause you all sorts of grief until you cut it off.
Guess how I know about those.
Mike in LLama Land

My 71 is the traditional half -cock version. No rebounding hammer

[NSB]

Is sounds like a significant headspace issue....with those rounds you're attempting to fire. If the firing pin is free, and you can push it forward with your finger so that it protrudes, and the hammer is falling, the primer just isn't in the right spot when the pin gets there due to either the case too far from the pin or the case is moving forward as it gets hit. Don't take this the wrong way or anything, but are you sure this used gun you got is actually barreled with a .348 Win? Has it been rebarreled where the headspace could be way off? How does a factory round fit in the chamber? It's kind of odd that it won't even dent the primer based on what you're describing with the firing pin moving and all.

[keydet15]

Had the same problem with mine when I first got it, replaced the main spring with no results. Ended up putting a spacer under spring worked like a champ.

[indian joe]

My 71 is the traditional half -cock version. No rebounding hammer

It will still have this junk firing pin though or something very much like it.
257993

23 is the rebound spring right at the front end of the firing pin

[indian joe]

Is sounds like a significant headspace issue....with those rounds you're attempting to fire. If the firing pin is free, and you can push it forward with your finger so that it protrudes, and the hammer is falling, the primer just isn't in the right spot when the pin gets there due to either the case too far from the pin or the case is moving forward as it gets hit. Don't take this the wrong way or anything, but are you sure this used gun you got is actually barreled with a .348 Win? Has it been rebarreled where the headspace could be way off? How does a factory round fit in the chamber? It's kind of odd that it won't even dent the primer based on what you're describing with the firing pin moving and all.

Anything is possible I guess but highly unlikely that a browning would have a headspace problem sufficient enough to cause a fail to fire.
We know that the bodgy firing pin will do it - why not look there? the rebound hammer has been eliminated ............................

[NSB]

The Browning/Miroku guns didn't have the rebounding firing pin IIRC, only the Winchester versions (which I have). If the headspace is correct and the firing pin isn't broke off, it should be hitting the primer enough to leave a mark.

[indian joe]

The Browning/Miroku guns didn't have the rebounding firing pin IIRC, only the Winchester versions (which I have). If the headspace is correct and the firing pin isn't broke off, it should be hitting the primer enough to leave a mark.

258038

Hope I dont ruin your day but those are the parts I kept after I fixed the lawyer firing pin on my BROWNING model 71 - the barrel is branded "Browning Arms Company -Morgan Utah and Montreal P.Q." ...........I bought it new in the early 1990's, imported to Aussieland by Fuller Firearms (I believe).

It has the proper half cock notch - at about 1/4 inch back from fired position - has a coil mainspring assembly that is a pure mongrel to work with - trigger spring is separate and appears identical to an original Win.

Has a return/rebound spring at the pointy end of the firing pin (that I left in) which appears to be unnecessary because the ears of the lever retract the firing pin via the angled cuts in the side of the pin body (as in a 92 or 86) - part of Browning's original design that didnt really need to be messed with.

This also prevents an out of battery discharge (firing before lever fully closed).............I tested that part of my modification very thoroughly with primed shells, and could not get that gun to fire until the locking bolts were fully home. ------ would not have proceeded otherwise!!!

My Browning DID NOT HAVE A SOLID FIRING PIN......................................

[244ack]

Really appreciate everyone's input. Gives me a direction to go

[ammohead]

Put a couple layers of scotchtape on the head of a brass cartridge to see if there is resistance when you close the breech to check headspace.

[indian joe]

Put a couple layers of scotchtape on the head of a brass cartridge to see if there is resistance when you close the breech to check headspace.

Is there a history of Browning model 71's with headspace problems??????

[veeman]

I've never heard anything but praise for bothe the 71's and the 86's from Browning. Closest thing to the real thing. Of course there could always be that one bad apple.

[Geezer in NH]

I would take the bolt out and clean it completely. Check for debris and dried gunk in the firing pin space

[Thin Man]

Here is a second vote for you (or someone who knows how) to completely remove the entire fire pin assembly from the bolt. Clean all parts that exit the bolt, then the inside of the bolt. Reassemble and test. Hope this get you where you want to be.

[indian joe]

I've never heard anything but praise for bothe the 71's and the 86's from Browning. Closest thing to the real thing. Of course there could always be that one bad apple.

Yeah I never heard of a headspace problem with these - hard to imagine that - dont believe its a factor at all.

But I have personal experience with the fail to fire (and heard others with the same) the firing pin deal fixed it - maybe a thorough strip down and clean would have done it too.

There a lot of unnecessary bits in that firing pin. My rifle has the proper half cock notch, the lever "ears" and cutouts in the firing pin work exactly as JMB intended to prevent an out of battery discharge and retract the firing pin. Its absolutely safe without the stupid little lawyer designed blocking mechanism in the firing pin

I also had to machine under the bolt to create the cutaway that should have been there to clear the hammer nose but I put that down to a one off glitch in computerised machining. If it was even a little common these guns would not be held in the high regard that they are.

[244ack]

I would take the bolt out and clean it completely. Check for debris and dried gunk in the firing pin space

This was the cure,
I dropped the rifle off with my gunsmith as I had no time to look at it.
He disassembled the bolt, cleaned all firing pin parts and degreased everything. Works great now, i have fired 2 boxes of shells with no issues.
Thanks for everyone’s input, greatly appreciated

[indian joe]

This was the cure,
I dropped the rifle off with my gunsmith as I had no time to look at it.
He disassembled the bolt, cleaned all firing pin parts and degreased everything. Works great now, i have fired 2 boxes of shells with no issues.
Thanks for everyone’s input, greatly appreciated

Thought that (strip and clean) might get you out of it - I am inclined to go at things head on - it fouled up once this, aint ever gonna happen again - and it wont .....dunno what your gunsmith charged for the job but if you never stripped a 71 browning down - the first time, strip clean and reassemble, was gonna take several hours and considerable frustration, 50 bucks for that job would be dirt cheap I reckon - I wouldnt consider 100 excessive.

[244ack]

He charged me $75 so i could not complain at all

[indian joe]

He charged me $75 so i could not complain at all

fair and reasonable!