PID placement of sensor

[bazzer485]

I carefully crimped my k type bare thermocouple with a copper crimp and put it under the spout nut against the lead pot, it was bolted very securely. What I find is the temperature at that point rises very rapidly when the valve is open pouring lead. Sometimes more than twenty degrees. What it tells me is this is a poor place to put the sensor. So I’ve ordered a replacement which I will put in the molten lead to , hopefully get a more accurate reading.

Barry

[Hairy Dawg]

I made a clamp for mine that holds it 1/2" from the side wall, and 1/2" from the bottom. I get very stable & repeatable readings.

[Mike W1]

I made a clamp for mine that holds it 1/2" from the side wall, and 1/2" from the bottom. I get very stable & repeatable readings.

That seems to be the way to go and the way mine are also.

[jsizemore]

I stick the probe in the liquid lead. When I finish a casting session I pull the probe out of the remaining lead so I can use the PID in another pot. I know, you only have one pot and one alloy. I was the same way. I'm down to 5 pots now having got rid of 2. Some deals are to good to pass up.

[RydForLyf]

Mine is in the pot as well. It gets in the way at times, but gives best actual measurement.

[Hairy Dawg]

I stick the probe in the liquid lead. When I finish a casting session I pull the probe out of the remaining lead so I can use the PID in another pot. I know, you only have one pot and one alloy. I was the same way. I'm down to 5 pots now having got rid of 2. Some deals are to good to pass up.

I use my PID for other uses as well. My thermocouple has a plug on the other end. Each thermocouple is hard mounted to whatever appliance it goes with, whether it be my second pot, mold oven, or powder coat oven.

[44magLeo]

I have a col of copper wire on the edge of my pot. The coil is big enough to slip the probe into. The mount holds the probe about a 1/2 inch away from the bottom and side next to the flow rod above the spout. This way I get the temp very close to where the lead comes out of the pot.
Leo

[bazzer485]

I have a col of copper wire on the edge of my pot. The coil is big enough to slip the probe into. The mount holds the probe about a 1/2 inch away from the bottom and side next to the flow rod above the spout. This way I get the temp very close to where the lead comes out of the pot.
Leo
Leo. Yes it’s obvious for whatever reason the temp measured outside the pot at the nozzle is not the same as the lead temperature. So the probe in the lead next to the output valve is the place to put it. I like the idea of the copper wire
Barry

[Mal Paso]

Leo. Yes it’s obvious for whatever reason the temp measured outside the pot at the nozzle is not the same as the lead temperature. So the probe in the lead next to the output valve is the place to put it. I like the idea of the copper wire
Barry

Thermal Drain. Auber has a good FAQ https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=6 I silver brazed a thermocouple through the bottom of a pot with just the tip inside. It was erratic and off temp until I changed the probe so it was 5/8 inside the pot and that fixed it.

[Conditor22]

A friend did this and I'm planning on changing my PID thermocouple location to under the pot using a
Non-Insulated Ring Lugs Crimp Cable Connector clamped on tothe end of a short thermocouple and clamped around the pour spout of my 4-20 with the existing nut.

One less thing to get in the way of fluxing AND the spout is where you want the certain temperature [smilie=s:

https://www.amazon.com/KeeYees-Barrel-Copper-Terminal-Connerctor/dp/B07RDDB42G/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1PX0D2TYJFZLO&keywords=uninsulated+ring+terminal&qid=1583083525&sprefix=Uninsulated+Ring+Terminal%2Caps%2C227&sr=8-8

[Drew P]

My TC was a threaded end 1/4-20 so I drilled the pot bottom 1/4” and bolted it in with a stainless acorn nut. Sealed and protected works perfect.

[RydForLyf]

A friend did this and I'm planning on changing my PID thermocouple location to under the pot using a
Non-Insulated Ring Lugs Crimp Cable Connector clamped on tothe end of a short thermocouple and clamped around the pour spout of my 4-20 with the existing nut.

One less thing to get in the way of fluxing AND the spout is where you want the certain temperature [smilie=s:

https://www.amazon.com/KeeYees-Barrel-Copper-Terminal-Connerctor/dp/B07RDDB42G/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1PX0D2TYJFZLO&keywords=uninsulated+ring+terminal&qid=1583083525&sprefix=Uninsulated+Ring+Terminal%2Caps%2C227&sr=8-8

If you are using the PID to control the heater, you want it to measure the mean temperature of the lead being heated. The nozzle cools off when lead isn’t flowing and this will trigger the PID to heat the lead when it isn’t really needed. The bouncing up and down of the nozzle temperature will undermine the consistency you can get with a PID with a probe measuring real alloy temp.

[bazzer485]

If you are using the PID to control the heater, you want it to measure the mean temperature of the lead being heated. The nozzle cools off when lead isn’t flowing and this will trigger the PID to heat the lead when it isn’t really needed. The bouncing up and down of the nozzle temperature will undermine the consistency you can get with a PID with a probe measuring real alloy temp.
Some people just don’t read the thread so just don’t get it.

[Dapaki]

I have been battling this phenomenon too, dropping the thermocouple in the pot sure helps a lot but depending on its location in the pot, I get temp swings too. I think the only answer is to run two probes, one on the bottom center of the pot (outside) and one inside in the center of the pot.

[redhawk0]

I run a Lee pot. The heating element is wrapped near the bottom 1/4 of the pot....so...that is where I position the tip of the sensor about 1/2" in from the side (inside). It will fluctuate a little...but +/-5* doesn't seem to make much difference in my casts. I figure this is still more stable than running the pot without a PID unit.

redhawk

[Mike W1]

I have been battling this phenomenon too, dropping the thermocouple in the pot sure helps a lot but depending on its location in the pot, I get temp swings too. I think the only answer is to run two probes, one on the bottom center of the pot (outside) and one inside in the center of the pot.

Read what you just wrote here! How the heck are you going to put 2 inputs into a PID? That makes absolutely no sense.

[bazzer485]

Read what you just wrote here! How the heck are you going to put 2 inputs into a PID? That makes absolutely no sense.
Mike, I think a awful lot of posts here are just theory and not from actual casters etc. So I’ve given my practical results.
Bazzer
Who Dares Wins

[redhawk0]

No...Dapaki is right...I think with one inside, and one outside you would provide better regulation (this is from a Dual Input PID unit). But this isn't rocket science...a single PID input should be sufficient.

redhawk

[Dapaki]

Read what you just wrote here! How the heck are you going to put 2 inputs into a PID? That makes absolutely no sense.

Mike, they are normal parts of line temperature measurement devices, in my case it's a 1/8 DIN dual Temperature, process and strain PID controller.

[Dapaki]

Mike, I think a awful lot of posts here are just theory and not from actual casters etc. So I’ve given my practical results.
Bazzer
Who Dares Wins

Nice....

[Mike W1]

I'm thinking a lot of folks are confusing dual temperature displays with dual input unit's which apparently exist but at a much higher price range than the one's the majority of bullet casters use. One of the stickies is about a dual setup to control a lead pot and some other separate piece of gear. He used the Auber SLY-2352 controller. That would be 2@ of both the PID and the TC's. A separate input (TC) for each controller and controlling 2 different apparatus'. Within a matter of seconds the temperature in a casting pots lead is going to be about the same throughout the mix/alloy. Lead conducts heat very rapidly. I've had a probe in 1/2" off the bottom and another 1/2" below the top and the difference between the 2 is negligible if any.
You just aren't going to have a pot of lead at 2 different temperatures and regulate our pots that only plug into one power source. Just can't happen.

[Dapaki]

Actually, that is what the dual temperature, process and strain PID controller does, it has AI (limited) to determine the difference between the two temperatures and pulse the SSR to keep the difference the same. Think of the dead band in a PID, it 'anticipates' the temperature as it approaches the set point, pulses the SSR to match the setting desired from both probes. Yes, you have to program in the dead band to match the normalized difference between the two probes but in the end, you get a stable temperature (if you keep within the heating elements capabilities) throughout the container.

Yes, it's overkill, yes it's tedious, yes its expensive but we are tinkerers above all, are we not? :grin:

[Mike W1]

Actually, that is what the dual temperature, process and strain PID controller does, it has AI (limited) to determine the difference between the two temperatures and pulse the SSR to keep the difference the same. Think of the dead band in a PID, it 'anticipates' the temperature as it approaches the set point, pulses the SSR to match the setting desired from both probes. Yes, you have to program in the dead band to match the normalized difference between the two probes but in the end, you get a stable temperature (if you keep within the heating elements capabilities) throughout the container.

Yes, it's overkill, yes it's tedious, yes its expensive but we are tinkerers above all, are we not? :grin:

Well Sir you're far more knowledgeable on PID's than I am for sure. I run 4 different PID's on 4 different setups. They all keep things with a couple degrees of set temperature. There is no reason I can see for me to require anything better than that. Mostly I like the repeatability. Turn things on and give it 20 minutes to heat up and I'm there. Molds are hot, ingots are hot and the lead where I want it. A $150 PID might gain a couple degrees more accuracy than a $12 Rex but I think it would be wasted money & time.

[Dapaki]

Well Sir you're far more knowledgeable on PID's than I am for sure. I run 4 different PID's on 4 different setups. They all keep things with a couple degrees of set temperature. There is no reason I can see for me to require anything better than that. Mostly I like the repeatability. Turn things on and give it 20 minutes to heat up and I'm there. Molds are hot, ingots are hot and the lead where I want it. A $150 PID might gain a couple degrees more accuracy than a $12 Rex but I think it would be wasted money & time.

Indeed! I think that people get the wrong idea some times when someone jumps in the conversation and says, "What about.... xxxxx?". Primarily I was just responding to the PID use and the disparity I am seeing in temps from inside the pot to the nozzle temp outside the pot. I am not going to spend big bucks on a fancy PID either but it is fun to brainstorm ans speculate, right?

I have a box of these things (pulls from old jobs) and it would would be interesting to see what probe locations work best for the dual temp system.

[RydForLyf]

Indeed! I think that people get the wrong idea some times when someone jumps in the conversation and says, "What about.... xxxxx?". Primarily I was just responding to the PID use and the disparity I am seeing in temps from inside the pot to the nozzle temp outside the pot. I am not going to spend big bucks on a fancy PID either but it is fun to brainstorm ans speculate, right?

I have a box of these things (pulls from old jobs) and it would would be interesting to see what probe locations work best for the dual temp system.

To be honest, all we want the PID to do is maintain the temperature of the lead at a specific temperature and eliminate the monkeying around with a physical knob and having to read a thermometer for reference. We could measure the temperature in Fahrenheit, Celsius, Pink Flamingos, or any other analog scale as long as it is repeatable. I don’t know about you, but as long as my lead can stay about 3.5 Pink Flamingos and fill the mold, 3.5 Pink Flamingos is where I’m going to set it next time. I don’t care what temp the outside of the pot is, how the temperature of the spout cools off when I’m not casting and how quickly it heats up when I start casting, all I need to know is that I’m at 3.5 Pink Flamingos and the pot is full. If your situation is different and 3.5 Pink Flamingos won’t work for you and you like 76 Fuzzy Squirrels, then 76 Fuzzy Squirrels it is for you. My Pink Flamingos won’t care. :grin:

[bazzer485]

To be honest, all we want the PID to do is maintain the temperature of the lead at a specific temperature and eliminate the monkeying around with a physical knob and having to read a thermometer for reference. We could measure the temperature in Fahrenheit, Celsius, Pink Flamingos, or any other analog scale as long as it is repeatable. I don’t know about you, but as long as my lead can stay about 3.5 Pink Flamingos and fill the mold, 3.5 Pink Flamingos is where I’m going to set it next time. I don’t care what temp the outside of the pot is, how the temperature of the spout cools off when I’m not casting and how quickly it heats up when I start casting, all I need to know is that I’m at 3.5 Pink Flamingos and the pot is full.
As the op I was just pointing out that the spout , nozzle if you like, varies considerably on the number of pink flamingos when casting and in fact the lead temperature was a pink flamingo hotter that the nozzle.
Cheers
Barry

[jsizemore]

I use my PID for other uses as well. My thermocouple has a plug on the other end. Each thermocouple is hard mounted to whatever appliance it goes with, whether it be my second pot, mold oven, or powder coat oven.

I started to do that but all thermocouples are not created equal and didn't want to go through the calibration thing every time I swapped. I've got a separate PID for lube/sizing, Hitek coating and casting. PID's are cheap enough.

[RydForLyf]

As the op I was just pointing out that the spout , nozzle if you like, varies considerably on the number of pink flamingos when casting and in fact the lead temperature was a pink flamingo hotter that the nozzle.
Cheers
Barry

And you expected this thread to stay on topic? I’ll see your Pink Flamingo and raise you two Fuzzy Squirrels.

[bazzer485]

No, I think this thread has reached its end! So any flamingos and fuzzy wizzuy’s is welcome as far as I’m concerned ! Flamingo away.

[Tazlaw]

Two turtle doves, and a partridge in a pear treeeeee!

[Mal Paso]

Anyone who has seen the movie Pink Flamingos should know, any calibrating in Pink Flamingos should be done in The Pit.

[Tazlaw]

Semi seriously—I just ordered my my first PID’s from amazon. One was $11, and the other $8. Including shipping. I also ordered two TC’s, one bare and one to go into pot. It would be nice to be able to put the bare one outside the pot somewhere (consistent) and not have it being in the way while casting.

As far as brain-storming, what about tying the Thermocouple to the rod going down into the lead? This would make it less in the way wouldn’t it? This would have to be a probe TC and tied with steel wire.

[bazzer485]

Taz, I’ve just ordered ten TC’s with plugs on the ends for about $10 including postage from corana virus land.
Baz

[Tazlaw]

Taz, I’ve just ordered ten TC’s with plugs on the ends for about $10 including postage from corana virus land.
Baz

Each or a dollar a piece? What service did you use? Amazon, Wish, eBay....?

Oh, and my PIDs came with an SSR and TC, but I ordered two longer TC’s.

[bazzer485]

Tax, eBay has changed its format and I can’t find a way to copy the url of the listing. It’s for five, not ten, k type thermocouples for $5.85 with free postage via speedpak from HongKong I believe. There are several other similar listings if you search
Baz

[Drew P]

257933257934

People often make this way more complicated than it can be. Combine these two items with a 1/4” hole in the center bottom of the pot and enjoy stable, reliable, durable readings. Any other method I’ve seen was a compromise to what I’ve seen on my pot using this way. Keep in mind that heavy lead bars will bang into this, and stirring rods and scrapers etc. don’t put janky wires into your pot if you don’t have to. Okay, carry on.

[bazzer485]

257933257934

People often make this way more complicated than it can be. Combine these two items with a 1/4” hole in the center bottom of the pot and enjoy stable, reliable, durable readings. Any other method I’ve seen was a compromise to what I’ve seen on my pot using this way. Okay, carry on.

Did you use any kind of washer?

[RydForLyf]

257933257934

People often make this way more complicated than it can be. Combine these two items with a 1/4” hole in the center bottom of the pot and enjoy stable, reliable, durable readings. Any other method I’ve seen was a compromise to what I’ve seen on my pot using this way. Keep in mind that heavy lead bars will bang into this, and stirring rods and scrapers etc. don’t put janky wires into your pot if you don’t have to. Okay, carry on.

That sure is a slick way of mounting the TC, but I think the heavy nut will put a significant time lag in the temperature reading and result in temperature swings that you are trying to avoid.

The thermocouple is designed to respond quickly to temperature changes and in this scenario, it isn’t contacting the lead, but is measuring the air temperature inside the nut. It would be interesting to put a wet probe in the lead to observe lead temps being controlled by the acorn nut PID. I do think that is a great idea to seal it out, it fear the response and performance will be muted.

[hermans]

That sure is a slick way of mounting the TC, but I think the heavy nut will put a significant time lag in the temperature reading and result in temperature swings that you are trying to avoid.

The thermocouple is designed to respond quickly to temperature changes and in this scenario, it isn’t contacting the lead, but is measuring the air temperature inside the nut. It would be interesting to put a wet probe in the lead to observe lead temps being controlled by the acorn nut PID. I do think that is a great idea to seal it out, it fear the response and performance will be muted.

Very interesting....always wondered how/where in my ProMelt I can mount the sensor, but I sure am hesitant to drill a hole in the stainless steel wall of my beloved ProMelt:?

[lightman]

I replaced one of the bolts on the top of my ProMelt with a longer bolt and a jam nut that holds a piece of flat bar stock thats drilled to hold the probe. The jam nut allows me to remove the probe and swing the bar out of the way when fluxing and stirring. The probe hangs in the molten lead about 3/4 inch from the edge of the pot.

I welded a similar piece of bar stock to the side of my smelting pot to hold a probe or thermometer.

Sorry, no fuzzy squirrels or pink flamingos here! :)

[Dapaki]

...... all I need to know is that I’m at 3.5 Pink Flamingos and the pot is full. If your situation is different and 3.5 Pink Flamingos won’t work for you and you like 76 Fuzzy Squirrels, then 76 Fuzzy Squirrels it is for you. My Pink Flamingos won’t care. :grin:

I personally am 3 Iguanas shy of a full hedgehog. :grin:

[RydForLyf]

I personally am 3 Iguanas shy of a full hedgehog. :grin:

:drinks:

[shaune509]

There are heat conduction pastes used in industrial non contact controls that would fill the fee space in the head of that acorn nut along with the fact that the nut and probe mount are affixed to the pot in the lead. The unit is then in equilibrium. May find an HVAC contractor that works for food or chem processing to get a small dab of the thermal paste. might also see if electronic heat sink paste would work.
Shaune509

[Drew P]

Did you use any kind of washer?
Nope, no washer needed on the two that I’ve done so far

[Drew P]

There are heat conduction pastes used in industrial non contact controls that would fill the fee space in the head of that acorn nut along with the fact that the nut and probe mount are affixed to the pot in the lead. The unit is then in equilibrium. May find an HVAC contractor that works for food or chem processing to get a small dab of the thermal paste. might also see if electronic heat sink paste would work.
Shaune509
I don’t think there is any lag whatsoever due to the metal contact with the acorn nut with liquid lead. If there is a lag, it’s irrelevant to the process as it’s goin to be a second, or two? As far as pastes I know there’s heat conducting paste for welding processes also and it’s like a clay that would remain stable at temp. But in practice, it’s not needed. But as I said, people try to make this project as difficult as possible lol.

[Drew P]

That sure is a slick way of mounting the TC, but I think the heavy nut will put a significant time lag in the temperature reading and result in temperature swings that you are trying to avoid.

The thermocouple is designed to respond quickly to temperature changes and in this scenario, it isn’t contacting the lead, but is measuring the air temperature inside the nut. It would be interesting to put a wet probe in the lead to observe lead temps being controlled by the acorn nut PID. I do think that is a great idea to seal it out, it fear the response and performance will be muted.how quick do you need your temp to read? It takes 20 minutes to even get the pot to temp so, I’m confused why you would have any concern about a two second lag? Also as said, I’ve been testing this for years so it’s moved past theory and is proven unless you don’t believe me, which would explain some of the resistance to this I guess.

[Drew P]

Very interesting....always wondered how/where in my ProMelt I can mount the sensor, but I sure am hesitant to drill a hole in the stainless steel wall of my beloved ProMelt:?
Just do it, it’s an upgrade you won’t regret. Night and day, forever change, never look back kind of feeling.

[Tazlaw]

You guys have given me many options on placement of TC sensors. Thank you each for your input. Hopefully this will help me as well as someone else.

[RydForLyf]

how quick do you need your temp to read? It takes 20 minutes to even get the pot to temp so, I’m confused why you would have any concern about a two second lag? Also as said, I’ve been testing this for years so it’s moved past theory and is proven unless you don’t believe me, which would explain some of the resistance to this I guess.

Since you're using that temperature reading as input for your PID, you want the shortest lag as possible. As the lag increases, the temperature swings increase. The PID is getting a signal late and is always "behind the curve" in trying to correct. It comes on late, so the lead has cooled more than it knows, and as the temp rises, it shuts off late leading to overshoots in max temp. The MOST important consideration is response time in your measurement.

A slow reading temperature probe is like closing your eyes while driving and letting a person in the back seat tell you what steering corrections are needed to keep the car on the road. I know it sounds silly, but the resulting oscillations and over-corrections are a good way of explaining it.

You want your feedback measurement, your temperature probe, to give the PID the most immediate and up to date information available. Throwing a thermal mass, the acorn nut, into the equation and then adding a low-conductivity air space on top of that means your PID will never be able to accurately auto adjust and begin to predict the response cycle of your "system" because it's input is so far "removed" from actual conditions.

[jsizemore]

I don’t think there is any lag whatsoever due to the metal contact with the acorn nut with liquid lead. If there is a lag, it’s irrelevant to the process as it’s goin to be a second, or two? As far as pastes I know there’s heat conducting paste for welding processes also and it’s like a clay that would remain stable at temp. But in practice, it’s not needed. But as I said, people try to make this project as difficult as possible lol.

So, drilling a hole in the pot, routing the leads, and mounting the nut/thermocouple and reassembling the pot is "easier" then dropping the thermocouple in the lead? Nothing complicated or difficult about that.

[Drew P]

So, drilling a hole in the pot, routing the leads, and mounting the nut/thermocouple and reassembling the pot is "easier" then dropping the thermocouple in the lead? Nothing complicated or difficult about that.
Ya, because it’s a one and done solution and won’t have any (in my opinion) fussing around later on like your method. But if you feel like I’m being too assertive it’s only because I’ve tried several methods and I’m pretty sure this is by far the best and I want you brothers in arms to enjoy the feeling I’m getting by my method. So if you must go your own way just know I have your back and love you anyway.

[Drew P]

Since you're using that temperature reading as input for your PID, you want the shortest lag as possible. As the lag increases, the temperature swings increase. The PID is getting a signal late and is always "behind the curve" in trying to correct. It comes on late, so the lead has cooled more than it knows, and as the temp rises, it shuts off late leading to overshoots in max temp. The MOST important consideration is response time in your measurement.

A slow reading temperature probe is like closing your eyes while driving and letting a person in the back seat tell you what steering corrections are needed to keep the car on the road. I know it sounds silly, but the resulting oscillations and over-corrections are a good way of explaining it.

You want your feedback measurement, your temperature probe, to give the PID the most immediate and up to date information available. Throwing a thermal mass, the acorn nut, into the equation and then adding a low-conductivity air space on top of that means your PID will never be able to accurately auto adjust and begin to predict the response cycle of your "system" because it's input is so far "removed" from actual conditions.
Have you used a pid before? They approach set point gradually and slow down before hitting the set temp, so lag in the sensor will only delay pot temp by however many degrees that’s worth which in my opinion, having used it for years, is about 2° at most? So, I understand your concern but I don’t think it applies to a big bath of liquid lead. I’m not sure how faster lag time would make it better or faster or more accurate at all.

[Drew P]

So, drilling a hole in the pot, routing the leads, and mounting the nut/thermocouple and reassembling the pot is "easier" then dropping the thermocouple in the lead? Nothing complicated or difficult about that.
You added a few more steps to seem dramatic there too. It’s a 1/4” hole, and a nut. No “reassembling” the pot or “routing” the leads lol. See, you really are making it more complicated.

[barnabus]

seems like a PID is a bunch of high tech hassle

[Dapaki]

seems like a PID is a bunch of high tech hassle

Honestly, they can be a little frustrating to program but downloading a "cheat-sheet" and watching a YouTube video makes sorting it all out pretty easy in the end.

Drew has a pretty good handle on this, (I would love to see your setup) you want the 'lag' to be long enough so that your not firing the SSR all the time, they bleed off power by making heat and do best when the duty cycle is moderate. Better SSR's do better but I have a 30A SSR running my brewing boil kettle for 6 years now with no signs of failure.

[RydForLyf]

Honestly, they can be a little frustrating to program but downloading a "cheat-sheet" and watching a YouTube video makes sorting it all out pretty easy in the end.

Most PIDs by default are set up to be used on heaters, so it's pretty much just set the temp and forget it. We really don't use all of their bells and whistles, but they really are a game changer and take over 100% of the temperature baby sitting.

The truth of the matter is that they are NOT necessary nor a "must have". We all used to get along just fine with a fan speed control and temperature slider in our cars for AC control. However, I won't ever give up my automatic climate control now that I've got it. It just makes life easier and everyone needs to determine if the convenience (luxury) is worth the price. :grin:

[jsizemore]

seems like a PID is a bunch of high tech hassle

It's as simple as sticking the liquid tight probe in the lead, turn your original thermostat/control wide open, plug your pot into the PID AC output, turn on the PID and set the temp. Easy. No drilling holes. I have an alligator clip with a piece of coat hanger wire attached that clips to the thermocouple probe to adjust height in whatever casting pot I choose to put it in. You get a direct read of the actual lead temp at a glance. As long as the tip of the probe is submerged your golden. When your lead reaches temp the first time, hit AT (autotune) and the PID figures what rate it needs to energize/de-energize power to the pot as your lead level decreases with casting (or dripping if you own a LEE 4-20). Simple. Easy. Cast bullet dimensions are very consistent.

[Dapaki]

I wish the Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller was compatible with the LEE pots, it would be good to just have a plug-n-play option for those not wanting to do the programming.