Question About Caps

[trapper44shooter]

I am going to buy me a black powder revolver & I would like to know which type & brand will work best the revolver is the Traditions 1858 Remington New Army .44 Cal. Steel Frame, 12" Oct. Barrel Buffalo I was going to get the brass frame model but I have had a lot of folks tell me they will not hold up to a max load so I am going with this one instead

[smithnframe]

Probably going to need #11 caps. I use CCI and Remington brands.

[rancher1913]

different size nipples take different size caps. some of my guns like #10's, some like #11's, and then there is the colt walker.

[sharps4590]

10's or 11's, you'll just have to try them. I generally use CCI or, RWS when I can get them.

[Woodnbow]

I’m a big fan of Remington #10’s and they seem to fit the Italian revolver cones right out of the box...

[TheOutlawKid]

Mr.woodnbow has some good advice there...remington #10s usually fit all stock nipples..not to mention aftermarket nipples like slixshot etc. I prefer remington 10s and 11s due to they dont lose their priming powder as easily as CCI brand...not to mention CCI caps are natorious for jamming guns due to their shrapnel going everywhere while remington caps stay whole most of the time and usually just "petal" open.

[megasupermagnum]

Does anyone know any tricks to getting caps to seat better? I'm quite familiar with the caps I'm using, CCI #11. I use them on all my muzzleloaders, including a muzzleloader pistol. This Ruger Old Army is my first revolver though, and it seems I can't get the caps to seat properly. I replaced the nipples with those from Track of the wolf, which are made specifically for CCI #11's. I've tried pushing with my thumb, and I've tried using the hammer to fully seat them. I'm getting about 1 or 2 out of six that don't go off the first time. So far they have all gone off on the second hit. There is no burr on the nipple, and it's not specific to any of them. It has happened to each nipple. Again brand new nipples, never dry fired. It can happen whether they are clean or dirty, although no doubt it is worst when dirty. I've heard of using a small dowel, maybe a pencil to push them on harder by hand, but have not tried it yet.

At least I don't have to worry about them falling off.

[mooman76]

Chuck the nipples in a drill and use Emory cloth or a small fine file to take some metal off the nipple until your caps fit properly. Be carefull and take a little off at a time.

[megasupermagnum]

Chuck the nipples in a drill and use Emory cloth or a small fine file to take some metal off the nipple until your caps fit properly. Be carefull and take a little off at a time.

That's an option. One thing I've noticed is that my rifle nipples have a slight tapered section, while these revolver nipples just barely have the edge knocked off. I wonder if I gave them just a tiny bit of taper, plus a polish, that wouldn't help.

As for seating, do most guys use the hammer? That's my preferred method on all my other guns.

[mooman76]

Usually the finger or thumb is used. That's all it should take.

[Maven]

"This Ruger Old Army is my first revolver though, and it seems I can't get the caps to seat properly. I replaced the nipples with those from Track of the Wolf...." ...msm

I had the same problem with my ROA: neither the factory nor Uncle Mike's replacement nipples gave reliable firing with either #10 or #11 caps. (It wasn't the caps!) After reading many good things about Slix Shot nipples (Badman Products), I purchased and installed a set: Goodbye problems! The ROA is now 100% reliable and as accurate as my BH & SBH with cast & weighed .457" RB's. I recommend those nipples wholeheartedly.

[oldracer]

Size depends on the nipples, my Uncle Mike's need #11 while stock nipples need #10 but they are tight. To seat each nipple I made a "seating tool" from a 6 inch piece of old cleaning rod and a block of wood for the palm of my hand. Once I put the nipple on manually I seat it and can usually see them move some to get tight. Remember it is the concussion of something that makes to cap go off so pushing slowly on them won't hurt. I still point my 1858 Remington revolvers down range.

Some things I learned when I got mine last year:
2.8 grains of real Goex worked best
Make sure the hammer touches the face of the nipple, mine rubbed on the sides of the hammer slot.
Top off the powder with Cream of Wheat
Use a "Tower of Powder" external loader, not the pistols ram
Make sure there is about 0.008 clearance between the cylinder and the barrel, no locking up due to powder residue
I had to rent the reamer to taper the inside of the forcing cone as all 4 of my 1858 revolvers did not have any taper
Seal the cylinder openings with a lube such as Doug Knoell's or Garbe's solid lube from Montana (forget the exact name)

Took me a few months and help from my mentor to get mine to really shoot but they do well now!
John

[725]

All the practical advice above aside, what does the company / owner's manual say?

[megasupermagnum]

All the practical advice above aside, what does the company / owner's manual say?

Ruger just says use a capper, which of course isn't quite enough in my case. It also says to use a #10 or pinch an #11 if the fit is loose. It says nothing about too tight. I'm sure it won't be any big deal with a little polishing.

[dtknowles]

Ruger just says use a capper, which of course isn't quite enough in my case. It also says to use a #10 or pinch an #11 if the fit is loose. It says nothing about too tight. I'm sure it won't be any big deal with a little polishing.

So you use a capper and they don't go on and stay put and fire on first hammer drop? I have a Ruger Old Army and I use a capper and misfires are so rare I don't remember them. What kind of capper do you use. Mine is the bar type about 5 inches long. I can get a good grip on it and press the cap on hard with my right hand while pushing with the thumb of my left hand (that left hand is gripping the gun by the grips) on the back of the capper and then slide the capper to the side while still pushing. This motion is not as complicated as writing it. The left hand right hand thing is because of the location of the opening for the capping. The Left thumb guide the capper onto the nipple.

I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

Tim

[dtknowles]

I got my Ruger second hand. Somebody might have already changed or modified the nipples. They are different than other nipples they are hexagonal.

Tim

[Maven]

dtk, Unless Ruger changed the design or supplier of their nipples, the ROA's of ~1978 vintage came with hexagonal nipples. The Uncle Mike's and Slix Shot ones, are round.

[megasupermagnum]

So you use a capper and they don't go on and stay put and fire on first hammer drop? I have a Ruger Old Army and I use a capper and misfires are so rare I don't remember them. What kind of capper do you use. Mine is the bar type about 5 inches long. I can get a good grip on it and press the cap on hard with my right hand while pushing with the thumb of my left hand (that left hand is gripping the gun by the grips) on the back of the capper and then slide the capper to the side while still pushing. This motion is not as complicated as writing it. The left hand right hand thing is because of the location of the opening for the capping. The Left thumb guide the capper onto the nipple.

I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

Tim

Right. I use the cash capper, which allows a decent force to be applied. Still, they do not fully seat with that alone. I'm sure I could force them, but I don't want to risk bursting a cap.

That's a good point about the loading area. You know, I never once thought about it before now. I'm left handed, and I never had to worry about it. I've always been in perfect position. Even double action revolvers, you see some fancy moves to reload them quickly. As a left hander, I never switch hands on them either.

I guess revolvers were always meant for the left handed.

[Woodnbow]

So you use a capper and they don't go on and stay put and fire on first hammer drop? I have a Ruger Old Army and I use a capper and misfires are so rare I don't remember them. What kind of capper do you use. Mine is the bar type about 5 inches long. I can get a good grip on it and press the cap on hard with my right hand while pushing with the thumb of my left hand (that left hand is gripping the gun by the grips) on the back of the capper and then slide the capper to the side while still pushing. This motion is not as complicated as writing it. The left hand right hand thing is because of the location of the opening for the capping. The Left thumb guide the capper onto the nipple.

I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

Tim
Because revolvers were designed to be used in the left hand, while the saber was wielded in the right

[dtknowles]

Because revolvers were designed to be used in the left hand, while the saber was wielded in the right

Hum, makes sense 100 years ago. Why didn't Bill Ruger or other modern makers swap them around?

Tim

[mooman76]

People hate change. Sometimes even for the better.

[dtknowles]

dtk, Unless Ruger changed the design or supplier of their nipples, the ROA's of ~1978 vintage came with hexagonal nipples. The Uncle Mike's and Slix Shot ones, are round.

Thanks, it is good to know.

Tim

[Woodnbow]

Hum, makes sense 100 years ago. Why didn't Bill Ruger or other modern makers swap them around?

Timjust in case of a zombie apocalypse I guess. Semper Paratus, Semper Fidelis.

[ogre]

Size depends on the nipples, my Uncle Mike's need #11 while stock nipples need #10 but they are tight. To seat each nipple I made a "seating tool" from a 6 inch piece of old cleaning rod and a block of wood for the palm of my hand. Once I put the nipple on manually I seat it and can usually see them move some to get tight. Remember it is the concussion of something that makes to cap go off so pushing slowly on them won't hurt. I still point my 1858 Remington revolvers down range.

Some things I learned when I got mine last year:
2.8 grains of real Goex worked best
Make sure the hammer touches the face of the nipple, mine rubbed on the sides of the hammer slot.
Top off the powder with Cream of Wheat
Use a "Tower of Powder" external loader, not the pistols ram
Make sure there is about 0.008 clearance between the cylinder and the barrel, no locking up due to powder residue
I had to rent the reamer to taper the inside of the forcing cone as all 4 of my 1858 revolvers did not have any taper
Seal the cylinder openings with a lube such as Doug Knoell's or Garbe's solid lube from Montana (forget the exact name)

Took me a few months and help from my mentor to get mine to really shoot but they do well now!
John

With 2.8 grains?

[ogre]

So you use a capper and they don't go on and stay put and fire on first hammer drop? I have a Ruger Old Army and I use a capper and misfires are so rare I don't remember them. What kind of capper do you use. Mine is the bar type about 5 inches long. I can get a good grip on it and press the cap on hard with my right hand while pushing with the thumb of my left hand (that left hand is gripping the gun by the grips) on the back of the capper and then slide the capper to the side while still pushing. This motion is not as complicated as writing it. The left hand right hand thing is because of the location of the opening for the capping. The Left thumb guide the capper onto the nipple.

I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

Tim


Colt's single action cartridge revolvers followed the tradition of his cap and ball revolvers by loading from the right side. As to why the cap and ball revolvers were designed the way that they were, some people believe that Sam Colt was left-handed. That might explain a few things.

[Valley-Shooter]

Does anyone know any tricks to getting caps to seat better? .

I use an oak dowel rod that has been tapered on one end. Just put pressure on the cap while turning the dowel for even pressure.
I've also used the back end of a Bic pen.

On one the internet forums there's a detailed account of an experienced shooter who blew up his thump pushing on black powder revolver caps. He lost some meat from his thump and it took many stitches to put it back together.

Using the hammer is actually against the rules of one the civil war reenactor organizations.


Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Petrol & Powder]

..............
I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

Tim

Because most people are right handed. The tasks of capping nipples, loading cartridges, operating ejector rods - require fine motor skills. The right hand generally has more dexterity (assuming the person is right handed). So the gun is designed so that the operations requiring the greater dexterity of the right hand are on the right side of the gun. The left hand just holds the gun, no fine motor skills are needed for that task.

[arcticap]

Remington #10's fit both of my Pietta 1858's like a glove.
#11's need to be squeezed to stay on but they will work.