Stock Finishing

[MDC]

First off, if these are your pics, I apologize, I borrowed them from the www.
I have a factory Encore stock that looks similar to the first pic, just the factory finish. I much prefer the subdued look of the second one. Looking for input on how to get there. I'm thinking it is just a linseed oil treatment. Appreciate any help you guys can provide
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[pietro]

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Strip (not sand), stain with one or more applications of MinWax Black Walnut stain & finish with multiple coats of TruOil or other gunstock finisher.

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[Chad5005]

256773 if this is not to dark for you its brown leather dye and true oil,the shine is watco oil and 3 different polishes

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I agree that you should use a stripper to remove the old finish. Either remove the butt pad or wrap it in some protective tape to prevent the stripper from eating on the rubber. Even so, you may find it necessary to lightly sand the stock with 320, then 400 grit W&D paper to achieve a smooth surface. Sand with the grain. Once you've removed the finish you'll need to made a decision on the color you want the finished project to be. Different pieces of the same type of wood, such as walnut, can be different shades. If you want it to be darker you'll need to stain it to the color you desire. Some walnut is naturally the darker color of the 2nd stock, so no stain would be needed. Yes, it looks to me also like the 2nd stock is just finished with two or three coats of boiled linseed oil. Apply it sparingly because sometimes under some conditions it can take a long time to dry and will remain tacky for days, so use thin coats applied with the fingers, and rub it in a small circular pattern to work it into the pores. Too much oil, or too many coats, and it will begin to develop a shiner surface than you seem to want. If that happens you can remove the excess oil with 4-0 steel wool or 400 grit W&D paper when it has thoroughly dried. A thin coat of carnauba wax added as a final touch will also assist in protecting against moisture.

There are probably more methods of refinishing gunstocks using various stains and finishes than there are trees in the forest.

[Rich/WIS]

The finer you sand the more likely it is to be glossy unless you use a finish that is listed as "satin" or similar. Have had good luck with Watco Danish Oil satin, it penetrates the wood, and can be further protected with brush-on or wipe-on satin poly. If applying linseed oil thin it one part mineral spirits to three parts BLO, it will penetrate better and cure more quickly, about 24 hours depending on heat and humidity.

[Rick Hodges]

Follow the instructions with True Oil and cut back the last coat to the wood with 0000 steel wool. The finish is in the wood not on it. Gives a nice satin finish.

[rondog]

You'll get 100 different answers/recommendations - all right, and all wrong. Follow your heart - do you want a "fast 'n easy" finish, or an old school hand-rubbed oil finish that looks 100+ years old?

[MDC]

Thanks for the advice. I'm not in a hurry and have seen fast and easy stock finishes, pretty much the factory finish that looks like a coat of plastic over the wood. I like the hand rubbed look but don't want it glossy.
I guess it's a matter of choosing a product. Is there any benefit that makes one better than the other? How would you decide between BLO, TruOil, Danish Oil or other products? Is it just a personal preference?
I've used the aerosol Tru Oil before and it turned out great but on that stock, a Browning A-Bolt Medallion 22lr, I was after the high gloss finish and it turned out beautiful.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

You know, it's just experience. You have to do a lot of refinish jobs, use a lot of different products, find out what they look like after the job is done, and then proceed according to what you've learned and how you want the stock to look. Once again, the stock in the bottom photo looks very much like the finish found on a G.I. stock such as an M1 Garand, and that's just plain linseed oil. Watco Danish Oil Stain will give you much the same appearance also.

[oconeedan]

I agree strip it.
BLO, boiled linseed oil, is an oil you rub into the wood. It takes a long time to dry, some say it never dries. It leaves a nice warm hand rubbed oil finish, but is not a "shell" type finish, as it soaks into the wood. It is easy to touch up scratches in the future as they blend in.
Tung Oil, Birchwood Casey, and other finishes dry much faster, provide a harder finish. It is more of a shell, if that makes sense.

[GregLaROCHE]

Stripping is the first step. I don’t like water based strippers, because I think they raise the grain. Consider using different grades of steel wool to remove the stripper after it has one it’s work. Not putty knives or scrapers. There shouldn’t be that much to remove. After that you have a whole choice of finishes to go with. There must be sticky’s on the subject and of course youtube. Most penetrating oils will darken the wood somewhat.

[Martin Luber]

I always wondered how to get that original light finish.....

How?

[444ttd]

lin speed is the only one i trust.

https://www.lin-speed.com/

[Wayne Smith]

I've probably posted this a dozen times here. For oil wood finishes there are two and only two oils that completely polymerize or harden. Tung oil and Walnut oil. Both are available at WoodCraft - if you get the Tung oil get the pure Tung oil and add your own mineral spirits. I sand in a 50% mix several times to fill the pores. I then rub in a 75% oil 25% mineral spirits until I get the finish I like. I use Walnut oil on children's toys and bowls that are likely to be used for food.

Linseed oil (actually flax seed oil) will never completely harden. Thus BLO - or linseed oil with dryers added - will never completely harden. The old advice for applying BLO was - once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for life.

[Petander]

There is an old technique called "Lemon merenque stock".

Lots of sanding, lemon juice opens the pores, then eggwhite is applied to fill them,then eggwhite is hardened with alcohol (I used denatured). Let dry, sand again,repeat... repeat... finer and finer grit...

After a few days off egg/lemon/alcohol treatment theres no pores,it's like 1200 shiny. Then start oiling it.

I did a few stocks this way 20 years ago,they still look great. It's an ancient technique that was used by quality furniture makers. Google?

I may still have the printed instructions. A beautiful,all natural stock.

[Petander]

Ha!

Found it,someone else likes it,too:


Jul 24, 2005 · #1
I copied an article from a gun digest a few years ago. I have a stock in mind I would like to try it on and was wondering if anyone has tried it. This is how the old coach builder used to do it.
Heres how it works Materials: wet or dry papers in 400, 600, 800, 1000; one lemon, one egg, clear surgical rubbing alchohol, a small bottle of artistic grade linseed oil and a large rubber earaser to use as backing.
1. polish stock with 400 grit 2. after polishing liberally coat with lemon juice 3. after lemon juice is absorbed comes surgical alchohol, about 5 passes with cotton wool 4. Next need to fill the pores. rubb eggwhite into stock by hand. Once dry, rub down to bare wood with 400 grit 5. apply alshohol to stock, let it dry and put on more eggwhite. Repeat routine untill most of the pores are filled in. 6. start with 400 grit untill all traces of egg- white are gone. go on to 600 and always use eraser backing. move onto 800. Move onto 1000. When done take some used 1000 and polish again. 7. now hand rub thin coats of linseed oil. If any oil on the surface wipe off with clean cotton rag. average density walnut stock will take about six coats. 8. time for automotive rubbing compound. finest grit body and paint shops use to finish cars. make sure compound is not combined with wax. aplly it thinly over stock and let dry. polish gently with a leather chamois. 9. next comes beeswax polish. if you can't find it, you can make it. Need 1 block of real beeswax, about the size of a shotgun shell. shred it on a cheese grater and drop it into a jar with four spoonfuls of real turpentine ( the stuff the comes from pine resin, not synthetic). the was will melt in the turpentine 10. spread a little paste on stock with clean Cloth and leave to dry for hour or so. once dry rub well with a leather chamois.
Anybody else see this article and try it?

[rondog]

Egg whites and lemon juice? I'll pass, thanks. I'll just use a fresh piece of 400 grit and sand in the linseed oil. Let the wood flour (sawdust) fill in the pores.

[Love Life]

I use 3m ultra fine finish pads instead of steel wool. No chance of metal particles getting trapped in the wood.

Tru-Oil will get you what you want finish wise. Several coats of tru-oil mixed with mineral spirits in a 2:1 ratio will give you a nice finish that mimics a linseed finish, but dries. You can apply coats of full strength tru-oil to increase gloss and finish thickness.

Timberluxe finish is really good as well, but has a very short shelf life once opened.

Use dye or stain to adjust the color prior to finishing with the finish of your choice.

For filling pores I prefer to sand while wet with tru-oil and create a slurry. Wipe off against the grain. Crystalac is a good pore filler as well.

[MDC]

Thanks for all of the advice. I haven't decided on what product to use but seriously doubt I'll use egg whites.
I'm going to strip it down and probably take a rasp to it also. I think the wrist could be a little thinner and could fit the frame a little better.
I'll try to remember to take pics along the way.

[Czech_too]

Rather than use a stripper, I've opted to go with card/cabinet scrapers.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_scraper
Just my preference.

[MDC]

I got after this thing this weekend. First thing I did was to thin down the wrist, it was just too fat for my hand. Started with a fine rasp and worked slowly until it felt good then worked it with 100 grit paper going up to 220. Sanding took it down a bit more and now it feels really good
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Applied the stripper and let it do its thing then got it cleaned up. A little messy but much better than sanding the whole thing.
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Then got it sanded to 220 grit.
257806

I decided to go with Tru Oil and didn't stain it. I'll just let the wood speak for itself. I put on a thinned coat earlier this morning. It was pretty warm and low humidity today so this evening the first coat dried pretty well. I put on a second thinned coat and sanded it in with 320 grit. It really smoothed it out and filled the pores well. It looks like the forend is going to be a touch lighter but doesn't look bad at all.
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Thanks again for the advice and someone mentioned, maybe a different thread, about rubbing cooking oil into your hands then soap and water for getting the finish off. Works like a champ!
Planning one more thinned coat sanded in with 400 grit then I'll start with unthinned oil and rub in by hand until I get it where I want it.

[Love Life]

It is going to come out nice! Once you go to full strength coats I’d let it dry at least 24 hours between coats. If you want to scuff. Between coats I recommend 3m finishing pads from Lowe’s or Home Depot. Get the 3m brand as the el cheapo brands bleed dye on the project. Found that out the hard way.

[MDC]

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Here it is after 7 coats. Just got the 8th applied.
Had a crew show up to trim the bushes right in the middle of the process so it didn't come out great. I'll buff it back down tomorrow evening and probably do two more coats. After the final coat I'll buff it down once more and wax it. Expecting it to turn out with a nice satin finish.