snowblower issues--help

[buggybuilder]

I have a small Toro paddle type snow thrower. When it just sits and idles it sounds like it will quit running but it never does. The motor sounds like it revs up and down constantly. When I blow snow and the motor is under load it runs great. Is this a carb issue, spark plug issue or maybe the choke? Thanks for any help.

[Rick Hodges]

I have a Toro 2450 that has done the same thing since the day I bought it 8 or 9 years ago...runs fine. I did have to replace the paddles a couple of times. I think it is the nature of the beast. It isn't broke, it does the job just fine.

[jonp]

Sounds like an air leak. Did you check all the hoses and connections?

[Parson]

Can be more than one source but first thought is carburetor, I have a similar situation

[rbuck351]

Sounds like it's running just a bit lean at idle. Open (turn left) the idle mixture screw about 1/8 turn and see if that helps

[Buck Butcher]

To isolate the problem to the carburetor, slowly slide the choke toward the choke position. (While it idles) If it cleans up and stops surging it points to a dirty carb. My money is on the carb, we have a lot of ethanol in our fuel these days that really likes to gum up carburetors.

Mark

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Isn't the Toro a 2 cycle?
if it was stored over the summer with oil-mix gas in it, it's likely gummy deposits in the carb.

[StuBach]

Had the same situation in my old craftsman blower. Ran for 24 years in my family like that before I sold it this fall in a yard sale. Neve really worried about it but it was a bit disturbing when it was at idle and sounded like it was about to take off [emoji16]

[hawkenhunter50]

I'd say carburetor especially if you're running ethanol mix gas. In my small engines I buy ethanol free gas. If you can't get ethanol free, use the highest octane rating and add some stabil to it. The small engine carbs dont like the ethanol, especially if it sits for a period.

[megasupermagnum]

It can be other problems like an air leak. 9/10 times it's a lean idle. It's either set too lean, or assuming it used to idle ok, it is a dirty pilot circuit in the carb.

[buggybuilder]

I use high octane ethanol free fuel. I always run the unit dry at the end of the season so there is no fuel in the tank.
Is there an additive I could use in the fuel that would clean it up? I don't want to spend $85 to have the dealership boil the carb out.
Thanks for all the help and info!!

[megasupermagnum]

I use high octane ethanol free fuel. I always run the unit dry at the end of the season so there is no fuel in the tank.
Is there an additive I could use in the fuel that would clean it up? I don't want to spend $85 to have the dealership boil the carb out.
Thanks for all the help and info!!

Lots of people claim otherwise, but I've never once found a product that will clean a carburetor once it's dirty. Seafoam is the biggest scam next to Marvel mystery oil. One trick you can try if it has adjustable fuel screws is to turn them in all the way and back out the same place a couple times. Sometimes this can get you by. You don't need to boil a carburetor to clean it. None of the carb dips available in the past 20 or so years are worth anything. The best way is to take it apart, and clean with carb spray. The very best is B12 Chemtool, that stuff will eat anything, and it burns on your skin. It's usually a good idea to put it back together with a carb kit too.

One thing I forgot with those fuel screws, assuming yours even has them, you can try adjusting the idle/low speed screw out a little. It will most likely be marked with an L for low. Many times you will only have an H for high, which will not help your problem. Depending on how old this is, it is likely yours doesn't have any adjustment at all.

Another option, a lot of times these small carburetors can be had whole for dirt cheap, something like $10-25. All you need is some basic wrenches. sockets, and screwdrivers to change it.

[BamaNapper]

I've given up on trying to clean carbs when they give me problems. Typically replacement carbs are on Amazon or eBay for under $20. I'll order one, and if it works I order a second one to have on hand for the next time. I can't tell you how many afternoons I've spent tearing apart carbs trying to get a tool running. And when it's $10 for a carb kit or $20 for a replacement carb, it's a no-brainer.

But the rev up/ idle down constantly could be the governor messing with the throttle. Normally the governor only comes into play near full throttle though. At idle it shouldn't be moving at all. But I'm assuming the snow blower is a 4-stroke and someone here mentioned the possibility of a 2-stroke.

[Rick Hodges]

My Toro is a 2 stroke and has always surged at idle...but runs like a champ, doesn't stall and throws snow well. I'm from the school of "if its not broke don't mess with it".

[4rdwhln]

I find the carbs are simple to take apart and clean and blow out with compressed air. Although a new one can sometimes be had for very cheap.I use sea foam in every tank on power equipment and always premium gas with out ethanol. Truth be told a very small piece of crud can wreck havoc on the little ports in these carbs. Also most have a screen that gas can get thru,but water can not. a single drop will cause running problems. Also any air leak will cause issues. I have found small engine parts are cheap now days on the web.