type 38

[rmcc]

Just picked up a "parts" gun, type 38 Arisaka. Was missing bolt but everything else was there. Have never shot or loaded for one of these, any tricks I should know about? I am not familiar with this platform, so any tips would be greatly appreciated! Bore is absolutely mint. The "mum" has been ground off and there are 2 holes in top of receiver. Japanese script on stock and receiver. Serial is in numbers.

rmcc

[Texas by God]

Great rifles, strongest action, with good bore and good ammo they shoot fine. The holes are vents in case of a case rupture. I have a spare bolt body but unfortunately it's for a type 99.
Good luck in your search!

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[CLAYPOOL]

6.5 prob.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Be sure to check the barrel groove diameter. My custom Type 38 slugs at .2685 ...but some are a little smaller.

USA made 6.5 guns will have .264 barrels, and that's why 6.5 bullets made in USA are .264

Shooting a .264 J-word works "kind of" OK in a Type 38, but you will want the correct size boolit when shooting cast.

[TCLouis]

Take your time looking for bolt and pieces to complete it.
I had some needs for the parts to complete a Type 99 and had I moved in haste to buy the parts, the cost would have been significantly more.

I'm thinking the safety is interchangeable between the two types, but do not know about firing pin spring and firing pin.

[HumptyDumpty]

Having been in a similar situation now, twice (with two complete rifles to show for it), I will say to ask plenty of questions, if you source the bolt from an auction, and test the fit, if it is in person. I came across a couple of sellers who; and I believe they were sincere; were advertising Type 99 bolts as Type 38, or who thought the two were interchangeable. I haven' slugged either bore yet, but accuracy with .264 J-Bullets, has thus-far been disappointing.

[Rapidrob]

These rifles do NOT like boat tailed bullets. Only use a flat based bullet if you want any kind of accuracy.
I shoot nothing but long range targets and found with a nice,long bodied, flat based bullet they shoot very well.

[rmcc]

Got a bolt from Numrich, dies and brass from Midway. Bolt function tests OK. Load Hornady 160 gr RN over 30.5 IMR 4320, not a hot load by any means. Will post back when I get to shoot the rifle. Thanks for the help!!!

[LAGS]

How was the headspace.
Bolts are not Universal Fit to every rifle of that make.

[415m3]

I like a 140gr bullet Over 32gr of 3031 in mine. Consistently rings the steel plate at 300 yds yet is surprisingly mild to shoot

[Budzilla 19]

Got a Type 38 with a 28” bull barrel on it for a bench rest rifle!!! It’s chambered in 6.5-308,(before it was called 260 Remington). It shoots wonderfully.At 13 pounds overall, zero recoil! Found an old Timney target trigger for it, works for me.

[HumptyDumpty]

How was the headspace.
Bolts are not Universal Fit to every rifle of that make.

I hadn't heard that before. Are you sure? Now I feel to need to get a headspace gauge.:(

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I hadn't heard that before. Are you sure? Now I feel to need to get a headspace gauge.:(
Why? No need to do that unless your fired brass looks abnormal. The mass produced military rifles of the middle to late 20th Century had parts that would interchange more often than not. Not always, to be sure, but usually.

[LAGS]

You do not need a Headspace Gage if you have a Brand New " Unfired " loaded round or Casing.
You put on a couple of layers scotch tape on the case head , put it into the rifle and see if the bolt Will Not Close.
Don't Force it closed.
Then measure what thickness you put on the case head , and that will be close to your Headspace Gap.
You should have a maximum gap of about .004".
But not more than .008" for the rifle to be within Safe limits.
But there are other things that a Gunsmith will check , like the condition and engagement surface of the bolt lugs and receiver for set back.
But as far as I have seen , the tape method will let you check things Roughly without buying a headspace Gage.
I also have found that swapping bolts between rifles Does Cause there to be an Excessive Headspace Condition or in some cases , too little headspace , ( which is not a dangerous condition as long as the bolt closes easily when chamber is empty )
Maybe it is not to the Danger level now.
But over time when the swapped bolt wears in it finally settled in , you will exceed the dangerous headspace level.

[HumptyDumpty]

Why? No need to do that unless your fired brass looks abnormal. The mass produced military rifles of the middle to late 20th Century had parts that would interchange more often than not. Not always, to be sure, but usually.
My fired brass looks good, but I think I'll give Lag's tape method a try, just in case.

[Wayne Smith]

Even if you have excessive headspace for a reloader that's not a real problem. Fit your brass to your chamber and shoot away.

[john.k]

Yes ,its very simple ....once fired brass automatically headspaces itself.........first load in new cases ,set the bullets out far enough to contact rifling...and so force the base of the case against the bolt face............Headspace is only a problem if you buy factory loaded ammo ,or surplus ,of which there is none.

[HumptyDumpty]

Yes ,its very simple ....once fired brass automatically headspaces itself.........first load in new cases ,set the bullets out far enough to contact rifling...and so force the base of the case against the bolt face............Headspace is only a problem if you buy factory loaded ammo ,or surplus ,of which there is none.

So, we are talking about neck-sizing only here. Would you suggest, especially for this purpose, to stop a little short of where the neck ends, and the shoulder taper begins? I am concerned that I could inadvertently begin to deform the shoulder, if only slightly.

[john.k]

Yes ,as a general rule ,never fully resize cases ,you just shorten case life.....adjust dies a couple of threads loose....In fact ,a peculiar problem of using light loads is that cases are blown forward ,and shoulders shortened by the primer blast.....however Jap is semi rimmed and should not suffer this problem......In a front locking action,only size as much of the neck as needed for bullet seating......Cases will last forever.

[LAGS]

Checking your Rough Bolt Lug Engagement is easy enough to do with a Felt Tip Pen.
Just color the back of your bolt lugs with the pen then work the bolt on a Once fired Unsized case to add a little back pressure on the bolt.
Then look at where the ink rubbed off.
I have found Many Mil Surps with mismatched bolts that the headspace was good on the no go Gage.
But the bolt lugs only had contact on One Lug or they only had like 20 percent contact.
This can cause and on some wear in Quickly and caused the headspace to increase.
But like many others have said.
For the most part , headspace is not a big issue within limits.
But it is better to verify what your headspace is , and if there are any issues that can cause it to increase like set back or too little lug engagement.
And lots of these checks can be done at home , without taking your rifle to a Gunsmith or buying special tools

[Texas by God]

If headspace is too long, rechamber it to- gasp!- 6.5 Creedmoor [emoji16]! The action can take it.

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[LAGS]

I always opted for the old 6.5 x 257 Roberts.
That was one nice round.
But not a Factory round.
It out shot my .257 Roberts because of the Chrome lined bore on my type 38

[EDG]

Loading the Type 38

The brass will bulge when fired.
You can tape it up for the first shot or you can turn the rims down on .303 Brit brass and form your cases.
Others form brass from 7.62 Nato but it is tough to swage the case head down to .450.

Do no use bullets heavier than 140 grains and do not use boat tails.

[rmcc]

Thanks for all the replies!! Shot 38 today at 100 yds, off rest of course. With a 6 o'clock hold on SR1 target, first 2 shots were in 10 with 1x. Needless to say I was pleased!! Load was Hornady 160 gr RN over 30.5 gr of IMR 4320. I will not be searching for another load! Going to order some more brass and bullets from MIdway tonight. What a fun gun to shoot.

rmcc