Lyman 55 and Black Powder

[GregLaROCHE]

I normally put leftover BP back into the original container, where I have put a few silica gel packs, to be sure it stays super dry. A couple of weeks ago I left the powder in. When I went to use it, it was very hard to move the handle. I dumped out the BP and found it had started to corrode the brass and cast iron. I was surprised. I’ve left smokeless in many times before and never had a problem. I can understand it. BP is corrosive even before it’s been burned. Next time I will be sure to return it to the container. Has anyone else had a similar experience?

[country gent]

Yes I have. its the salts and the way BP draws and holds humidity

[Larry Gibson]

Potassium nitrate......

[Stephen Cohen]

I was under the impression that the Lyman 55 should never be used with black powder, was my leg being pulled. Regards Stephen

[Green Frog]

I was under the impression that the Lyman 55 should never be used with black powder, was my leg being pulled. Regards Stephen

Initially Lyman made their adjustments based on BP volumes... the use of BP was pretty much taken for granted. Then some engineer (or lawyer??) discovered static electricity and theorized the plastic reservoir could generate enough of a spark to set off the BP it contained. Even though there is no indication this ever happened, Lyman immediately issued a warning against using the 55 with BP. Then they came out with a BP version of the 55 using an aluminum reservoir and an extended drop tube.

While I readily admit to having a lot of (too many) other measures, I wouldn’t hesitate to use one of my several 55s to measure BP if needed. This is not advice, just a personal observation... let your conscience and good sense be your guide.

Froggie

[Bent Ramrod]

I always remove the BP from my #5 Ideal after a loading session, but occasionally I still find the drum is a little sticky in operation the next time. Deposits do form on the brass rotor, even without powder in the measure. I’ve taken to removing the drum, wiping it and the seat with a damp cloth, and spraying it with that quick-drying padlock lubricant before reassembly. Extra work, but it cuts the annoyance factor considerably at the next loading session.

The #5 is all cast iron construction, and dissipates static electricity as fast as it is generated.

[Chill Wills]

Living in a dry climate has some advantage as I never have problems leaving powder in the Lyman meter.

[GregLaROCHE]

I was under the impression that the Lyman 55 should never be used with black powder, was my leg being pulled. Regards Stephen

A friend told me I shouldn’t use my 55 for BP, because of the risk of it setting off the powder, when crunched between the cylinder and the body. I was wondering about it, until I heard about Lyman’s 55 especially for BP. I use it with the plastic reservoir. I think a lot of other people do too. I guess if you were really worried about static electricity, you could always run a ground wire to it.

[mazo kid]

I believe the BP Lyman powder measure is just like regular 55 except for the aluminum hopper. I used my "smokeless" 55 with black powder for a few years, then replaced the hopper with a brass one. I have the BP measure too. Also, it is pretty much determined that static will not set off black powder.

[Pressman]

Folks get all worked up about black powder, forgetting the Ideal powder measure began life in 1886 as the UPM, Universal measure. It's working principle has not changed, only the design of the rotor and that dates to 1903. The 1903 rotor will fit a current Lyman measure with no modifications.

I believe they used a lot of black powder back in those days.

[gwpercle]

Yes... Don't leave Black or Smokeless powders in a measure .
Lyman still makes a Classic Black Powder Measure , they sell for about $150.00 but are worth the extra money if you are loading black .

The standard Lyman 55 for smokeless powder is still carried and sells for about $100.00 .
There are differences in the two measures , so use the correct measure for the type powder you are loading .
Gary

[SgtDog0311]

I've got the classic Black powder version... still in the box. But its a longer story than that. Had one before this and I did empty the black powder after use and still found it months later corroded. Lyman made good on a replacement and I never took it out of the box. I've posted it in For-Sale threads on a couple sites for $100, then down to $75, I know on ASSRA for sure, and was surprised there were no takers. I don't seem to have much luck with these. Bought a B&M that turned out to be gaulded on parts too and not to smooth to operate. Have used an RCBS Chargemaster trickling directly into scale pan for a while.

[Green Frog]

Back from the crypt! :coffeecom

The problem with using BP in virtually any powder measure with metal components is not the danger of explosion but the risk of damage to the measure itself through chemical reaction (read “corrosion.”) BP is by its nature quite hygroscopic. The moisture it absorbs combines with the potassium nitrate in the BP and will quickly react with brass, iron, or just about any other metal. It only takes traces of BP dust to let this occur, so my latest routine involves taking out the rotor after emptying the measure (at the end of each session) and wiping it clean and dry. I also like to dust it with graphite powder (sold for lock lubrication) as a final step before reassembling. 8-)

Smokeless powder? I’ve encountered this left in a Dillon powder measure made of aluminum with a plastic reservoir for several years with no ill effects except a slight darkening of the reservoir. Some of the Lyman 55 tubes have turned opaque black... I wonder how long they had powder left in them. :roll:

Froggie

[fgd135]

I use a Lyman 55 BP measure to load BP cartridges; it's very precise, especially with 3fg and 2fg powders.
When I'm finished for the day, I empty it of powder, take off the rotor, wipe everything down with a soft cloth to remove remaining powder residues, then put it back together. This prevents corrosion, in my experience.

[Green Frog]

I use a Lyman 55 BP measure to load BP cartridges; it's very precise, especially with 3fg and 2fg powders.
When I'm finished for the day, I empty it of powder, take off the rotor, wipe everything down with a soft cloth to remove remaining powder residues, then put it back together. This prevents corrosion, in my experience.

If you drop by the auto parts place and get a tube of graphite dust (used to lubricate locks, etc) you can finish your clean up with that one more step and I’d bet you will find your 55 works even more smoothly. Many powders have graphite added to prevent clumping, so there’s no concern about contamination like there would be with an oil or grease. Works for me! :mrgreen:

Froggie

[ndnchf]

I really like the Lyman 55s. Maybe its because I've been using them for 35+ years. Early on I lost one to black powder corrosion. But after that I learned to empty and wipe them out after each use. One thing I started do a few years ago is to apply Boeshield T9 to the barrel and corresponding cast iron surface the barrel contacts. Boeshield is an anti-corrosion wax developed by Boeing for the aerospace industry. I use it on machine tools also to prevent rust. It works very well. I still empty my 55 after every use and wipe them down, but the Boeshield gives another layer of protection.

https://boeshield.com/

[fgd135]

If get a tube of graphite dust (used to lubricate locks, etc) you can finish your clean up with that one more step and I’d bet you will find your 55 works even more smoothly.
Froggie

Great idea! I already have the powdered graphite; I use it to lube the inside of case necks when resizing. Thanks, Mr. Frog.

[John Boy]

Has anyone else had a similar experience?
Nope, because when I bought my first old brass cylinder charger, the owner left BP in it and the the cylinder was frozen. Went to school on their error and I clean/lube the cylinder and insides of the charger after every use. I also have sprayed the chamber on a couple with zinc primer spray paint

[Dan Cash]

I use standard and the BP model 55 for black powder with no issue. I am loading a large volume of BP cartridges so the measures see a lot of use. I don't always empty and clean them after use but have had no issues with them freezing though it can happen. Maintenance is quick and simple. The powdered graphite is very beneficial.

[beltfed]

Another treatment for my Lyman 55-after cleaning the rotor AND the inside of the cast Iron body, I
spray the rotor body(not the cavity) and inside the body with Dry Teflon spray. let dry, and then re-assemble.
I also do this occasionally to my RCBS and Redding measures. They run slick and don't build up powder residue
inside. Yes, I do use the 55 for BP. I do have a ground wire wrapped around the plastic hopper just because.
beltfed/arnie

[GONRA]

Chill Wills - GONRA sez - watchout for Black Powder STATIC ELECTRICITY KABOOMS in yer Dry Climate!

[ndnchf]

As I mentioned earlier, I like to disassemble my 55s for a thorough cleaning. Then I apply Borshield T9 to the rotating parts and corresponding cast iron barrel. This is a corrosion resistant wax that helps protect the surfaces from corrosion from hygroscopic powders. I wipe it on with a soft cloth, let it dry, then polish with a clean cloth.

I still disassemble and clean after each use. But this provides an extra level of protection.