keeping 4 cavity mould cool

[barnabus]

I bought a used Accurate 4 cavity 405 grain mould and it throws frosted bullets really quickly.how can I keep this mould cooler. I should have known it would have gotten too hot with so many cavities and such a big bullet.

[rancher1913]

I keep a wet towel beside the pot and with the mold closed touch the bottom to the towel for just a split second, do not let any moisture get into the cavities, keep it as tight as you can.

[FISH4BUGS]

I keep a wet towel beside the pot and with the mold closed touch the bottom to the towel for just a split second, do not let any moisture get into the cavities, keep it as tight as you can.

Ditto on that method.
i cast with 4 cavity (at minimum) Hensley & Gibbs moulds and keep a wet washcloth next to the pot. When the bullets start getting frosty, I empty the mould, close it, then roll the mould side to side on the washcloth.
Cools it right off. The washcloth loses its moisture pretty quick when you are in production mode, so pay attention to it.
I THINK that is what is called the Bruce B Speedcasting method.

[Conditor22]

I use several methods

I recently had this problem with a 6X 300 grn aluminum mold :)

In this picture, you can see a 6 cavity mold sitting on a 6" x 8" x 1 1/4" piece of steel.
In the background you can see a shallow pan over the top filled with old washcloths then I fill it with water only putting the mold on a damp cloth, not in the water. this will stain the bottom of your mold.

I got com 12V fans out of computer servers, I plan in raising the steel off the deck and having the fan blown over it to see how that does.

What many of us do is simply cast with several molds giving each mold a chance to cool down.

https://i.imgur.com/Q43LVtj.jpg

[Dragonheart]

Guys it is your molds to do with as you wish, but you can warp your mold with water. If you are in that big of a hurry why not set the mold on a copper or aluminium plate to transfer some of the heat?

[OS OK]

One of these days I'll score me a nice thick chunk-O-aluminum and do like Jim does but until then I'll continue to set them on the bottom of one of my pots. As thin as that aluminum plate is it still sucks that heat out fast and your pace picks up and your casts remain shiny.


https://i.imgur.com/Poyd9Lb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RBQ4Czc.jpg

Shiny cast are not my objective as much as a faster pace.

[GregLaROCHE]

The wet cloth works well for me. Consider the temperature of the lead in the pot. Perhaps you can lower it some and still make nice boolits.

[FISH4BUGS]

The wet cloth works well for me. Consider the temperature of the lead in the pot. Perhaps you can lower it some and still make nice boolits.

That is one variable to work with. It is interesting how many variables there are:
* Lead temp
* mould temp
* alloy
* pace between casts
* steel or aluminum mould
* cooling down between casts via fan or damp cloth
I am sure I forgot one or two.

[Jack Stanley]

I use a heat sink in the form of my nine pound ingots . It does double duty this way by cooling the mold and warming the next ingot to go into the pot . If I need more cooling I use a small fan or use the tandem casting method .

Jack

[Iowa Fox]

Guys it is your molds to do with as you wish, but you can warp your mold with water. If you are in that big of a hurry why not set the mold on a copper or aluminium plate to transfer some of the heat?

That's what I do. Leave them open and set on a thick piece of aluminum as you develop your cadence coordinated with pot temp.

[oger]

Keep the pot cooler, slow down on your casting speed and have a small diameter fan where you can hold the mold in front of it. Once you get used to what it takes to keep the mold right it's not to hard to do.

[Dragonheart]

An old aluminum skillet is a good source for metal and usually can be found cheap or free.

[Martin Luber]

I run up to four moulds at a time. This allows them to cool.

[Dragonheart]

I run up to four moulds at a time. This allows them to cool.

I also run multiple molds and I agree this not only allows cooling it eliminates other problems and increases production.

[kevin c]

I tried the speed casting technique with an aluminum 8 cav. The production rate was phenomenal. So was the rust on the ferrous metal parts of the mold. I haven't heard of others having this problem, so maybe it's just my not being assiduous enough in oiling those parts and doing proper mold aftercare once the session is done. All the same, I've gone on to heat sinks and am experimenting with casting out of two molds simultaneously.

[Dragonheart]

I tried the speed casting technique with an aluminum 8 cav. The production rate was phenomenal. So was the rust on the ferrous metal parts of the mold. I haven't heard of others having this problem, so maybe it's just my not being assiduous enough in oiling those parts and doing proper mold aftercare once the session is done. All the same, I've gone on to heat sinks and am experimenting with casting out of two molds simultaneously.

I don't typically use any aluminum molds, but ferrous parts rusting can be a problem on all ferrous mold parts and operating handles on my ProMelt. I have found putting a mirror polish on the sprue plates not only helps on releasing the sprue, but also keeps down rust. Powder coating operating handles on the furnace eliminates rust. Two cycle oil also helps as long as you can keep it out of the cavities.