Possible danger with Contender

[megasupermagnum]

This is my very first TC Contender, although I do have plenty of experience with the Encore. During my last range trip, one problem I had was that the trigger stop set screw was giving me fits. This has been fixed. The problem was that I noticed once when I forgot to lower the hammer that it released when I opened the gun. When I got home I took some empty, but primed shells and tried to replicate it. To my horror, it not only drops the hammer the second you touch the release, it puts a pretty good, although shallow dent in the primer. Even with that, it did not set off any primer in 15 attempts. This seems like a serious design flaw.

Has anyone ever had a problem with a Contender going off out of battery like this?

[Czech_too]

My short answer would be no I have not had any of mine go off out of battery. The long answer would be that I have never had the hammer cocked when when breaking it open. I have always, carefully, lowered the hammer prior to doing so. Now though, I'm curious as to what would happen. Maybe later in the day I'll have to take a look-see.

[M-Tecs]

On the original Contender the hammer is designed to drop if you leave it cocked and open the action. This is normal and it is not a safety issue since the hammer block will prevent the hammer from hitting the firing pin. Sounds like you have an issue with the hammer block. The one design issue to be aware of it is not recommended to use the trigger to lower the hammer and not recock the set. If you do the hammer is resting on the firing pin and not the hammer block.

Owned 7 or 8 since the early 70's and have been around a bunch. Never had an issue.

http://rvbprecision.com/firearms/mike-bellm/contender-hammer-safety-issues.html

The Contender is potentially the most dangerous of the two. It is similar to the old familiar Colt single action revolvers, for example, in that the hammer and firing pin can rest on the primer of a live round if the hammer is not drawn back to half cock. If the firearm is dropped on its hammer or the hammer is otherwise struck, it may fire. The Contender will do much the same thing if the hammer is not moved to a safe position. IF THE CONTENDER HAMMER IS ALLOWED TO REST ON THE FIRING PIN WITH A LIVE ROUND IN THE CHAMBER, IT MAY FIRE IF THE HAMMER IS STRUCK, IF THE FIREARM IS DROPPED ON THE HAMMER, OR IF THE HAMMER IS DRAWN TO THE REAR AND RELEASED.
Correct Procedure for the Contender is to always open and close the barrel to reset the hammer block safety, which prevents the hammer from contacting the firing pin when the hammer is not cocked.NEVER LOWER THE HAMMER AND LEAVE IT RESTING ON THE FIRING PIN. IF YOUR HAMMER HAS THE SLIDING CROSS BOLT SAFETY OR SELECTOR ON THE HAMMER, ALWAYS BE CERTAIN THE SAFETY IS IN THE SAFE POSITION UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO FIRE.



Trigger Adjustment instructions.

http://specialtypistols.infopop.cc/Articles/sp40.pdf

Owners manual with decocking instructions.

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/thompsoncenter_contender.pdf

general lockup info

http://www.lasc.us/BellmContenderMisfires.htm

[megasupermagnum]

Well mine has to go back to TC anyway, as while adjusting my trigger stop screw, my hammer spur broke off while dry firing. I'll see what they do about the hammer dropping. Mine is the original Contender. I sought that out specifically as I was told the pre-easy open Contenders had fantastic triggers. Mine is very much in the underwhelming category at around 4.5 pounds. The first trip to TC to have a barrel fitted, I was almost certain they would convert it to easy open. They did not, and mine is still original. Is there any disadvantage to the easy open? At this point I'm just looking to sell it, is it worth more left original?

[Silvercreek Farmer]

I've seen an older (70's?) Contender (not mine) accidentally discharge 2x with 2 different shooters, 20 years apart. I believe what was happening is the trigger was not resetting properly when the previously fired empty case was removed. So when the shooter attempted to cock the hammer, it was not caught in a notch and subsequently dropped on a live round. A hammer block should have prevented this, but didn't in both cases. Not sure if the block wasn't present, or defective. I google searched for a recall, but found none.

[megasupermagnum]

I've seen an older (70's?) Contender (not mine) accidentally discharge 2x with 2 different shooters, 20 years apart. I believe what was happening is the trigger was not resetting properly when the previously fired empty case was removed. So when the shooter attempted to cock the hammer, it was not caught in a notch and subsequently dropped on a live round. A hammer block should have prevented this, but didn't in both cases. Not sure if the block wasn't present, or defective. I google searched for a recall, but found none.

That kind of thing really scares me. I try and be safe, but there seems to be a list a mile long of things you need to keep track of on the Contender. The Encore has none of these problems. No big deal. I can sell mine for what I paid, and it was a fun try.

[M-Tecs]

Well mine has to go back to TC anyway, as while adjusting my trigger stop screw, my hammer spur broke off while dry firing.

255825

[M-Tecs]

I've seen an older (70's?) Contender (not mine) accidentally discharge 2x with 2 different shooters, 20 years apart. I believe what was happening is the trigger was not resetting properly when the previously fired empty case was removed. So when the shooter attempted to cock the hammer, it was not caught in a notch and subsequently dropped on a live round. A hammer block should have prevented this, but didn't in both cases. Not sure if the block wasn't present, or defective. I google searched for a recall, but found none.

Interesting that the same owner is having 20 years of issues without getting them resolved. More interesting is when the original Contender is fired the hammer is down. When you break the action the hammer is not recocked. When the action opens the hammer does move about 1/10th of an inch so the hammer block is in position and the first sear of the set trigger is reset. To fire the gun the hammer has to be manually cocked. You can both hear and feel when the second sear engages. I shoot a lot of guns with manual hammers. When I cock them I have never pulled them back and just let them go. Short of just letting the hammer go I am having a very hard time understanding how you can get an AD with this system.

[M-Tecs]

Well mine has to go back to TC anyway, as while adjusting my trigger stop screw, my hammer spur broke off while dry firing. I'll see what they do about the hammer dropping. Mine is the original Contender. I sought that out specifically as I was told the pre-easy open Contenders had fantastic triggers. Mine is very much in the underwhelming category at around 4.5 pounds. The first trip to TC to have a barrel fitted, I was almost certain they would convert it to easy open. They did not, and mine is still original. Is there any disadvantage to the easy open? At this point I'm just looking to sell it, is it worth more left original?

Whether the older or later easy open version the Contenders all had the same trigger mechanism (G2's use the Encore trigger system). The original Contender is a system that uses two sears and in reality it is a set trigger. That is why you don't need nor should you cock the hammer to dry fire. If the hammer is cocked when you open it will fall to the hammer block.

The easy open system did as claimed. It allow less force to open the action. Nothing more.

As to the trigger pull weight as a set trigger is should be very crisp and easily adjustable to about 2 pounds. If you want to go less than two pounds I would recommend doing the mods talked about here.

http://www.lasc.us/bellmTCTriggerJob.htm

S&W does not support the older Contenders and they stopped doing easy open conversions at least 10 years ago. They may or may not have a replacement hammer and they may want to charge you a couple of hundred dollars if they do since they don't honor the original lifetime warranty.

[megasupermagnum]

They fixed mine for free the first time. I forget what they replaced. A locking block maybe? I don't think it was the locking lugs on the barrel. I didn't pay a cent.

I don't mean to say the Contender is bad, but the list of things you need to learn to use one is astounding. This is a single shot handgun. It shouldn't need a book to operate.

[JimB..]

I think you’re making a good decision to sell it. Most people have no problem operating them safely, I have several, but it’s obviously not for you.

[M-Tecs]

I don't mean to say the Contender is bad, but the list of things you need to learn to use one is astounding. This is a single shot handgun. It shouldn't need a book to operate.

I purchased my first one in 1973 or 1974 as a 13 or 14 year old. Read the owners manual once. It's short sweet and covers 99% of what the normal users need. http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/thompsoncenter_contender.pdf

The older one piece locking lugs would lockup if not fitted properly. They switched to a two piece split design that fixed 99% of these issues. My guess is that is what they replaced.

After I started working on them I needed more detailed info but the original owners manual covers everything the average owner needs in a couple of pages.

[megasupermagnum]

I think you’re making a good decision to sell it. Most people have no problem operating them safely, I have several, but it’s obviously not for you.

No, it's not a bad gun, but not what I'm looking for. The only way to find out was to try it.

[Walks]

I guess I must by doing something wrong, cause I've never had a problem as described. Mine is a mid-90's gun, with bbl's going back to early 1980's. Had about 10,000rds thru it. From .22LR to .35Rem & 7mmTCU. Have no trouble opening it, and I had the trigger/action worked over by a Knowledgeable friend. I Don't dry fire it, and keep the firing pin in the middle position as my friend suggested. Only move it when ready to fire.

[M-Tecs]

I guess I must by doing something wrong, cause I've never had a problem as described. Mine is a mid-90's gun, with bbl's going back to early 1980's. Had about 10,000rds thru it. From .22LR to .35Rem & 7mmTCU. Have no trouble opening it, and I had the trigger/action worked over by a Knowledgeable friend. I Don't dry fire it, and keep the firing pin in the middle position as my friend suggested. Only move it when ready to fire.

I wished I had kept better records with mine. I have 6 or 7 frames and a bunch of barrels. I know which one is my first is and that one has a lot of rounds through it. I have two frames that have less than 500 rounds through them. Shot a lot of prairie dogs with a couple. Total round count is significant but I don't have a clue as to round count on each frame. The only one I sold was my 357 Herrett to a bubby that just had to have it for deer hunting. I have several 22 Hornet barrels that I may sell at some point since I shoot them very little.

[Shawlerbrook]

The Contender is no more difficult to operate than an old single action handgun or levergun. I have had them since the 70’s with zero problems.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Interesting that the same owner is having 20 years of issues without getting them resolved. More interesting is when the original Contender is fired the hammer is down. When you break the action the hammer is not recocked. When the action opens the hammer does move about 1/10th of an inch so the hammer block is in position and the first sear of the set trigger is reset. To fire the gun the hammer has to be manually cocked. You can both hear and feel when the second sear engages. I shoot a lot of guns with manual hammers. When I cock them I have never pulled them back and just let them go. Short of just letting the hammer go I am having a very hard time understanding how you can get an AD with this system.

Yes, I believe the hammer was dropped both times. I don't think the owner shoots it much. The first time it happened, he wan't present and I was a teenager. I didn't know much about guns at the time and assumed my buddy's thumb had slipped off the hammer while he was cocking it. The second time was last month when I had the owner drag out the old Contender for a couple of shots. He ADed it this time. At this point, I examined it's function carefully and determined that if the action was fully opened after each shot, the hammer cocked normally and there was no problem.

[rking22]

If the trigger is mis adjusted it can slip the sear if the action is slammed shut. This sets up the same condition as cocking then lowering the hammer by riding it down after a trigger pull. The hammer is sitting on the firing pin , pin in contact with the primer. Bad bad bad situation! If you just yank the hammer back assuming it will be held by the sear, note that word “assume “. It WILL fire just like you were holding the trigger and slipping the hammer on a peacemaker. The original, first release with the rotary cf/rf selector in the hammerface has no “safety”. They added the “safety” with the second change to the one with the selector lever on top of the hammer. Center position has a pin holding the hammer back( I don’t trust it, single point of failure). These guns are not for the person who is even slightly distracted when handling, I will sell my two before I exit this plane, but just barely. Mine are a 1xxx and 445xx serial numbers, 1st design. They are the only guns that I will not pass to my kids, they are very sweet guns but VERY unforgiving. Very powerful chambering, short length compromising muzzle awareness can be a very bad learning experience.
If I remember correctly, my 1975 manual said to open the action to decock , that is trusting memory. Always, after closing mine, I ease the hammer back till it is off the hammer block, then slowly lower to be sure the hammer block did not drop. Same as when putting my flint longrifle on half cock, or a 94 on halfcock. Don’t want them on top of the notch, you don’t want the hammer on the contender holding the hammer block. Has to be the other way roun.

[megasupermagnum]

If the trigger is mis adjusted it can slip the sear if the action is slammed shut. This sets up the same condition as cocking then lowering the hammer by riding it down after a trigger pull. The hammer is sitting on the firing pin , pin in contact with the primer. Bad bad bad situation! If you just yank the hammer back assuming it will be held by the sear, note that word “assume “. It WILL fire just like you were holding the trigger and slipping the hammer on a peacemaker. The original, first release with the rotary cf/rf selector in the hammerface has no “safety”. They added the “safety” with the second change to the one with the selector lever on top of the hammer. Center position has a pin holding the hammer back( I don’t trust it, single point of failure). These guns are not for the person who is even slightly distracted when handling, I will sell my two before I exit this plane, but just barely. Mine are a 1xxx and 445xx serial numbers, 1st design. They are the only guns that I will not pass to my kids, they are very sweet guns but VERY unforgiving. Very powerful chambering, short length compromising muzzle awareness can be a very bad learning experience.
If I remember correctly, my 1975 manual said to open the action to decock , that is trusting memory. Always, after closing mine, I ease the hammer back till it is off the hammer block, then slowly lower to be sure the hammer block did not drop. Same as when putting my flint longrifle on half cock, or a 94 on halfcock. Don’t want them on top of the notch, you don’t want the hammer on the contender holding the hammer block. Has to be the other way roun.

This is true. The Contender is a very specialized frame, and is not forgiving. That is the word I've been looking for. As long as I keep things under ideal conditions, and keep all of these safety considerations in mind, the Contender would be fine. I simply do not trust my self.

The only thing I would add is mine is the original Contender. Mine has the rotary selector that uses a screwdriver, and mine also has the "safety". It is just a nub that sticks out and mechanically blocks the hammer from touching the firing pin.

[megasupermagnum]

The Contender is no more difficult to operate than an old single action handgun or levergun. I have had them since the 70’s with zero problems.

All you have to do is pull the hammer back and pull the trigger on those. There are MANY more steps and considerations to operating a Contender. The flintlock comparison is a good one.

[M-Tecs]

If the trigger is mis adjusted it can slip the sear if the action is slammed shut. This sets up the same condition as cocking then lowering the hammer by riding it down after a trigger pull. The hammer is sitting on the firing pin , pin in contact with the primer. Bad bad bad situation!

I agree on your first two points after that not some much. First we agree if you adjust the trigger too light you can trip the first sear by slamming the action shut. Second we agree if you hold the trigger back and you lower the trigger manually the hammer will be resting on the firing.

Now for the area of disagreement. Jarring or pulling the trigger when the hammer is down does not result in the hammer resting on the firing pin.

When the hammer is down the hammer pressure is also holding the hammer block in place. If you pull the trigger or it is jarred off the hammer block is still in the up position holding the hammer of the firing pin. In this condition if you remove the hammer pressure from the hammer block the hammer block will retract and now the hammer will be resting on the firing pin. I tested this in the early 70's and due to this I opted for a full cover shoulder holster for hunting. Since that was a long time ago so I just tested a couple of mine to ensure my memory was correct.

The hammer also needs to be pulled to lower the hammer block. If the trigger is not pulled the hammer slipping when cocking will not fire the gun since the hammer block remains up.

[M-Tecs]

There are MANY more steps and considerations to operating a Contender.

Such as???????????????

[roadie]

All you have to do is pull the hammer back and pull the trigger on those. There are MANY more steps and considerations to operating a Contender. The flintlock comparison is a good one.




There's a couple of safety considerations with both an SAA and a lever gun........and really, it ain't like a person needs a University course to operate a Contender safely. If they don't have a manual, then get one.....it's part of being a responsible gun owner.

Every gun has it's quirks, it's up to the shooter to know what they are before playing with them.

[rking22]

The first ones had nothing but the rotary selector in the hammer nose, the “safety” was the first change , I guess. I am not a collector or expert on them, just been shooting them for 43 years. Another pitfall, is the adjustable trigger, everyone that gets one has to see how light they can get it! It’s a very good trigger, set it to about 3 lbs with good sear engagement and call it good. Anything less is a problem with cold fingers. I got my 4 digit frame at a gun shop because it was “broke” hammer wouldn’t stay back. I bought it for “parts” cheap. Went straight to our shooting spot, readjusted the trigger, stuck a barrel on it and it worked great. I did use it as parts, I just kept them together:)

[JimB..]

They are truly dangerous, the lot of them should be recalled. I really think you should take the opportunity to get them sold cheap before the rubes figure it out and stop buying them at any price.

Do me a favor though, shoot me a PM when you list them, just want to avoid them you know.

On a serious note, does anyone have any recollection of anyone shooting themselves, or anyone else for that matter, with a Contender?

[M-Tecs]

I got my 4 digit frame at a gun shop because it was “broke” hammer wouldn’t stay back. I bought it for “parts” cheap. Went straight to our shooting spot, readjusted the trigger, stuck a barrel on it and it worked great. I did use it as parts, I just kept them together:)

And that covers 99% of the issue with Contenders. The Contender was one of the first Erector Set guns. Everyone and there brother that got one tended to mess with them. A lot of these folks never read the very basic manual nor had they ever worked on any of their other firearms but they did manage to create a lot of issues.

[M-Tecs]

On a serious note, does anyone have any recollection of anyone shooting themselves, or anyone else for that matter, with a Contender?

See post #14 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?108476-Contender-differance-between-G2-and-older-model

[rking22]

M-Tex’s , You are correct the hammer is still holding the block in place, as I stated farther down. Just that this is a “land mine” waiting to bite. All it takes is a brush against the hammer to unseat that block, leaving the condition described. Can happen when holstering it. Same condition as leaving a 94 or side lock with the sear on the half cock notch and not seated in the notch. Looks ok, but lift the hammer a hair and the sear( or hammer block) drops away and you have a possible AD.
Not wanting to argue, just explaining my point. You are correct, but a bit more attention and there is a lot more security. As you stated, the trigger should always be covered, It may not go bang instantly, but with that sear tripped, it is now primed for disaster. Could be hours later.
As a side note, I do NOT consider them to be an unsafe design, no more so than the original peacemaker or an original 94 , or a Rem 700 trigger! But look what (de) evolution has necessitated to those fine designs. If “gun fixers” would leave them alone and users pay attention all is good with the world. I have all of the above cited examples, in their unadulterated form, all is good.

[M-Tecs]

Always, after closing mine, I ease the hammer back till it is off the hammer block, then slowly lower to be sure the hammer block did not drop. Same as when putting my flint longrifle on half cock, or a 94 on halfcock. Don’t want them on top of the notch, you don’t want the hammer on the contender holding the hammer block. Has to be the other way roun.

How does what you are doing change or improve anything?

[rking22]

If the sear slipped you will feel and hear the block drop and can open and reset. Then go fix it . Just something I do, think it it like a preflight check

[JimB..]

See post #14 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?108476-Contender-differance-between-G2-and-older-model

Thanks, I had not.

[Buzz Krumhunger]

They are truly dangerous, the lot of them should be recalled. I really think you should take the opportunity to get them sold cheap before the rubes figure it out and stop buying them at any price.

Do me a favor though, shoot me a PM when you list them, just want to avoid them you know.

On a serious note, does anyone have any recollection of anyone shooting themselves, or anyone else for that matter, with a Contender?

Several years ago I read of a gunshop employee negligently shooting a customer with a Contender he was “working on”, I think this took place in Salida or Buena Vista Colorado. Employee apparently thumbed the hammer back on a decocked Contender, assuming the sear would hold it, and when he turned loose of it the pistol went off. I have no idea why the gun was loaded.

[dale2242]

We had a police officer shoot himself through the outside edge of his right calf with a 22LR while shooting a silhouette match Creedmoor style.
He got the muzzle too far back and shot about a inch into and through his leg.
Boy, was he embarrassed.....dale

[EDG]

There was a guy in East Texas (I think) who was found dead in his golf cart or ATV.
His Contender apparently was dropped out of the vehicle, hit the ground and killed him.
He was making a run from his house to the mail box.


They are truly dangerous, the lot of them should be recalled. I really think you should take the opportunity to get them sold cheap before the rubes figure it out and stop buying them at any price.

Do me a favor though, shoot me a PM when you list them, just want to avoid them you know.

On a serious note, does anyone have any recollection of anyone shooting themselves, or anyone else for that matter, with a Contender?

[megasupermagnum]

Such as???????????????

In my case you have to close the barrel with authority (wont cock if closed softly), make sure the selector is on centerfire or rimfire, make sure the hammer safety is off, make sure you hold correctly (You can't two hand hold a contender), and then pull the trigger. And don't dry fire? I mean really, a modern gun you cant dry fire or the hammer snaps in half? Good greif.

If it doesn't go off you have to be very careful to lower the hammer, or it might go off when you open it. You have to open the gun, or the hammer is resting on the firing pin and it might go off. If you lower the hammer, as is VERY COMMON practice for target shooting and hunting, you have to open the gun again or it might go off. Best case you loose the next animal because it won't cock.

Instead of trying to roast me, just shoot me an offer. Or keep an eye on S&S section. It will be a few weeks though, as it needs to go back to TC for repair. It still shoots, but the hammer spur is shorter now.

[rking22]

I two hand mine all the time, don’t understand that issue??You can dry fire, just no need to cock the hammer, so no chamber perming, good feature. Browning Medalists have dry fire function, doesn’t peen the chamber. Actually slamming them to close is not good, yours may have been mistreated in the past. Close firmly, a feel that comes quickly. Now I did get a click once when I changed barrels from 22 LR to 357 Herrera to go hunting. Forgot to twist the selector, but you aren’t going from 22 to 357herret on many modern firearms that easily and holding zero. On me, added that to my preflight checklist too! If you want to decock, pull the open lever. Ride the hammer if you want, I do I hate the “snap” of decockers anyway. If you don’t like it then move it along, but be sure you aren’t just pissed with it at the moment. They are superb guns, just got a personality, known some girls like that:)

Not trying to roast you at all, they have a learning curve. I actually have been considering another to dedicate to a carbine, I’ll be watching as.

[megasupermagnum]

Isn't using the open lever to decock dry firing? They do have a learning curve. I was after a stone simple single shot like the Encore or H&R's. The Contender simply is not that. It's not a big deal.

As for two hand holding, you can't wrap your support hand around like any other handgun (including the Encore). I've seen where some use the Contender as a bench only gun, and "taco hold" the scope. Some hold them like a rifle without a stock. I myself kind of rest my second hand over my first, and put my fingers over the opening lever.

[dannyd]

I have put over 30,000 rounds on my two frames. No problems in 30 years.

[M-Tecs]

Instead of trying to roast me, just shoot me an offer. Or keep an eye on S&S section.

Not trying to roast you just correcting the misinformation you are spreading.

1. The Contender loading and safety operation is less complicated than operation a O/U or SXS shotgun with automatic safeties. Yes you have to close them it with authority, select which barrel you want to fire and set the safety to fire. In the case of the Contender the safety is not automatic so you don't have to mess with it so it's actually less complicated.

2. Can't two hand hold it?????????????????? LOL. Lots of two handed grip positions that are very effective with the Contender that don't use the trigger guard in the hold. Yes the owners manual states not to rest or use the trigger guard in the hold but that does not preclude using a variety of two hand holds. Same holds that work for the Encore work for the Contender.

3. The Contender is a set trigger firearm. You dry fire it the same as any other set trigger firearm. When you break the action it sets the trigger and you dryfire it. Why would you cock the hammer? This is no different than dry firing set trigger sidelock like a Hawken. If you cock the hammer on these when you dryfire you will damage the nipple if you don't have cap on it.

4. Decocking per the manual sound complicated but it not really anymore complicated any other firearm of this type. The manual says to use the safety like all manuals do. I don't use the safety to decock. I just hold the hammer back with my thumb and I use my middle finger to activate the hammer spur.

Hopefully S&W will fix it for free so you get your full value. If not I am looking for a parts gun. Either way if you decide to sell you shouldn't have a problem selling it here.

[M-Tecs]

Isn't using the open lever to decock dry firing?

Pulling the trigger is dryfiring. In the case of the Contender to dryfire you do not to nor should you cock the hammer to dryfire you just pull the trigger spur back to set the trigger than you pull the trigger and repeat as long as you want. When decocking you never let the hammer fail freely. The hammer block will prevent it from firing but its hard on the gun.

[megasupermagnum]

Do you have a picture of how you hold your Contender? Maybe it's just the grip I used, but I don't think even a small kid could get a proper two hand grip on an Contender like you can a semi auto, revolver, or Encore. I am using the Pachmayer presentation grip. When I grip it with one hand, there is maybe 1/4" gap to the trigger guard.

[M-Tecs]

Here's a pic of my 45Colt/410. When I shoot aerial targets with it I don't use that grip. For aerial targets I lay my left hand index finger along the trigger guard on trigger guard and the middle finger is on the lightlt on the trigger supper. It points better for me.

I do use the grip in the pic for most of my offhand. For the scoped Super 14's I tend to use the push pull hold with the left hand on the forearm.

* upload keeps failing so the pic isn't posting.

What it would show is me cupping the bottom of the grip and my right hand with my left hand. Same as I have to do with an Encore.

[MT Gianni]

They are truly dangerous, the lot of them should be recalled. I really think you should take the opportunity to get them sold cheap before the rubes figure it out and stop buying them at any price.

Do me a favor though, shoot me a PM when you list them, just want to avoid them you know.

On a serious note, does anyone have any recollection of anyone shooting themselves, or anyone else for that matter, with a Contender?

Montana Highway Patrol female officer was wounded bad enough to retire with a 30-30 round to the chest, in the late 80's or early 90's. IIRC, it was near a vest seam or her armpit. At the time I thought it an odd gun to bring to a gunfight.

[Mr_Sheesh]

If I was an LEO I'd have considered a Contender for longer range shots, before they started carrying AR's (Nicely longer range than a 12 gauge.)

[JSH]

As many Contenders that were on the line during the hay day of IHMSA, I will say it is not a gun problem. Thousands of people millions of rounds.

Contender,G2 and Encore that is it, no others. The Contender had some subtle changes over the years. Early frames were hard to open, the variations in selectors on the hammer.

M-Tecs points out very well on the subject.

As mentioned most if not all issues are more human related than mechanical.

One thing I did not see touched on and that is the “auto eject” it will scare the crap out of you.

Where these guns lock up on the shelf in the frame, the are designed to run dry. DO NOT lube or grease that shelf or barrel lug. Even cleaning solvent dribble down will cause issues.

I roll my eyes every time I see G1 ain’t such a thing.

[JRD]

The Contender does have it's quirks. It's not hard to operate once you have a basic understanding of how it works. I certainly enjoy mine and the set trigger is quite nice.

If you like the simplified mechanism of the Encore but want a Contender sized (and barrel compatible) gun, then look for a T/C G2. The G2 is essentially a baby Encore in mechanism that uses Contender barrels.

[MT Gianni]

If I was an LEO I'd have considered a Contender for longer range shots, before they started carrying AR's (Nicely longer range than a 12 gauge.)

Previous to contenders and AR's the 30-30 lever rode in a lot of patrol car trunks.

[uscra112]

I agree on your first two points after that not some much. First we agree if you adjust the trigger too light you can trip the first sear by slamming the action shut. Second we agree if you hold the trigger back and you lower the trigger manually the hammer will be resting on the firing.

Now for the area of disagreement. Jarring or pulling the trigger when the hammer is down does not result in the hammer resting on the firing pin.

When the hammer is down the hammer pressure is also holding the hammer block in place. If you pull the trigger or it is jarred off the hammer block is still in the up position holding the hammer of the firing pin. In this condition if you remove the hammer pressure from the hammer block the hammer block will retract and now the hammer will be resting on the firing pin. I tested this in the early 70's and due to this I opted for a full cover shoulder holster for hunting. Since that was a long time ago so I just tested a couple of mine to ensure my memory was correct.

The hammer also needs to be pulled to lower the hammer block. If the trigger is not pulled the hammer slipping when cocking will not fire the gun since the hammer block remains up.

THIS^^^ correctly and precisely describes the safety problem with Gen 1 Contenders. Warren Center got sued almost to extinction by the family of a hunter whose gun fell out of his shoulder holster after he had "decocked" it by pulling the trigger with the hammer down, then somehow manipulating the hammer so the hammer block dropped. Gun hit on the hammer while pointed right at him.

That's why the delightfully light set trigger design had to be abandoned. I love the set trigger on mine, but I know the danger, too.

BTW the hammer block can be a cause of light strikes if the spring that retracts it is too weak. Drove me to distraction until I figured it out. The hammer block and the hammer are released at the same instant, but if the hammer block spring is weak it fails to get out of the way in time. Simply stretching the spring to increase the preload solved the problem in my gun. (AFTER spending a bunch of $$ with Bellm for stronger hammer springs, which only made the problem worse. My respect for him plummeted when he refused to acknowledge that this problem could even exist.)

[megasupermagnum]

THIS^^^ correctly and precisely describes the safety problem with Gen 1 Contenders. Warren Center got sued almost to extinction by the family of a hunter whose gun fell out of his shoulder holster after he had "decocked" it by pulling the trigger with the hammer down, then somehow manipulating the hammer so the hammer block dropped. Gun hit on the hammer while pointed right at him.

That's why the delightfully light set trigger design had to be abandoned. I love the set trigger on mine, but I know the danger, too.

BTW the hammer block can be a cause of light strikes if the spring that retracts it is too weak. Drove me to distraction until I figured it out. The hammer block and the hammer are released at the same instant, but if the hammer block spring is weak it fails to get out of the way in time. Simply stretching the spring to increase the preload solved the problem in my gun. (AFTER spending a bunch of $$ with Bellm for stronger hammer springs, which only made the problem worse. My respect for him plummeted when he refused to acknowledge that this problem could even exist.)

I will fully admit the problem is that I did not do enough research before hand. Before this thread, I had no idea my trigger was adjustable, and I even learned of more safety considerations I did not know about. I was familiar with the Encore, and assumed the Contender was simply an older version of it. The only similarities between the Encore and Contender is that they are break open single shots.

Now the safety problems with the Contender are not to be understated. If I had known these things before, I never would have bought one to try. Even worse would be someone getting hurt. They are a purpose built gun, that fits that role well. A simple single shot, they are not.