Screwdrivers for S&W revolvers?

[Petander]

Hello,

do these bits work for S&W? They look normal straight edged to me,not "hollow ground". Shouldn't proper bits go deeper in the arched bottom slot?

I was going to get Grace but got a Forster set instead,no go,they are normal flat straight edged tips. Grace looks standard,too.

https://i.postimg.cc/K4SqQZmK/IMG-20200116-203341-622.jpg

[RichardB]

those are hollow ground

[Froogal]

I bought the "Grace" set. First set of hollow ground screwdrivers I've ever owned. I'm impressed. Should've bought that set 50 years ago.

[lefty o]

you want screw drivers with a flat tip, and hollow ground just like in that picture. normal screw drivers will wedge themselves right up out of the slot and bugger the screw head. flat tip, hollow ground, and fit the slot perfectly reduce your chances of making a mess.

[Petander]

those are hollow ground

Thanks. So it's my language barrier again.

I was expecting something like this to properly fit the round bottom grooves.

https://i.postimg.cc/kgKDgSfr/IMG-20200116-214735-399.jpg

No flat screwdriver fits this properly:

https://i.postimg.cc/GpNcPhMP/IMG-20200116-214622-192.jpg

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I can see where you would think that the Brownell's bits are not suitable, but I'll join my peers and say that they are made properly for gun screws.
The cylinder latch screw for the S&W revolver is an odd one, but a hollow ground bit will work. Something that I have found is that if you use a bit that is wide enough to fit between the elevated ends of the slot it will go in deeper and turn just as well as not having one that is the full length of the slot. They do make bits with nipped corners like you indicated in your drawing, and I've got some, but can't remember right now which set they came in. Might have been a Lyman set.

[Muddydogs]

Yes it seems your understanding of hollow ground is off, hollow ground means that there is no taper from the end of the screw driver blade up the shank for a ways. A regular screw driver starts tapering to a larger size from the tip up the shank. It doesn't matter if the screw head has a round bottom slot what matters is the bit fits all the way into the slot minus the rounded part, the bit is almost or the same length as the slot and the bit is as wide as the slot. By having the bit fit into the slot as tight as possible the force applied while turning out the screw is as evenly distributed as can be. If for instance your bit is narrower then the screw slot then when applying force to the screw the bit has enough slop that only the leading edge of the bit is contacting the slot and buggering it up. A bit that isn't as long as the slot is applying force to a smaller area of the slot which can bugger things up as well.

[JoeJames]

Many times when faced with a slot too narrow, I've just taken a bit the right width, and put a Dremel stone to it and hollow ground it. Like for the bug screw on a 5 screw Smith.

[Petander]

Yes thanks for the clarifications, everyone- I was expecting a different blade shape. "Hollow ground" got kinda mixed with the "hollow slot" in my head.

I've been filing and dremeling screwdrivers forever,might even keep on doing that. I'm in the beginning of a "get proper tools" -campaign.

[Bazoo]

If your homemade screw drivers do the job without damaging the screw, then they are the proper tools.

[Tatume]

The Brownells screwdriver bits are not as good as Grace. The Grace P4 & P5 are much less likely to bugger up your S&W side plate screws. They are wooden handled screwdrivers, not bits. I highly recommend them.

Brownells bits tend to cam up out of the slots. They can be fixed by regrinding. Better to start with correct screwdrivers and not learn the hard way.

[TNsailorman]

I have 1 Pachmayr, 1 Chapman and 1 Grace sets of screwdrivers for guns. The Chapman and the Pachmayr sets are the single handle and replaceable tips. I much prefer the Grace set with individual wooden handles over the other two although I use the Pachmayr and Chapman quite a bit. All work correctly if I do my part though. The best advice I can give though, regardless of which type of screwdriver you use; go slow and do not get in a hurry on guns screws. That is a recipe for buggered and damaged screw heads.

P.S. : I corrected an error in my original post. One of the single handle multiple blade sets is a Chapman and not a Grace. Sorry if I misled anyone, james

[Petander]

This Forster screwdriver set may be quite ok after all.

Got the Brownells bits coming,too.

[Tatume]

This Forster screwdriver set may be quite ok after all.

Got the Brownells bits coming,too.

I haven't tried Forster screwdrivers yet, and I want to. If you get them, please share some close-up photos of the tips, and your impressions.

[Hogdaddy]

If your homemade screw drivers do the job without damaging the screw, then they are the proper tools.

^^^^^^^^^Concur^^^^^^^^^^^ ; )
H/D

[Plate plinker]

Many times when faced with a slot too narrow, I've just taken a bit the right width, and put a Dremel stone to it and hollow ground it. Like for the bug screw on a 5 screw Smith.

This.....screwdrivers are consumables, if you need one to fit make it fit perfectly.

[Drm50]

I have Brownell's screw drivers and several other top shelf sets. I have been thinking of buying bit type set. I use drill/ drivers almost every day and can tell you their is a big difference in quality of bits. Brand name means nothing because most are sub contracted. If bit is made in China or Asia it's junk. I'm going to buy my bits at a industrial supply distributor. Industries don't buy "sets" they buy the bits they use in units.

[Petrol & Powder]

I've used them all over the years. A good hollow ground tip that reaches to the bottom of the slot and has the matching width for the slot will get the job done. Fit is KEY.

Some bits (or tips if it's a fixed one piece screw driver) are too hard and will be brittle. Others are too soft and will deform. The happy middle ground is elusive but I would rather have a bit that's a little too brittle than one that's a little too soft. A bit that deforms is more likely to cam out and damage the screw head. A brittle bit will break but is more likely to leave the screw head undamaged.

The Thumbpiece nut on a S&W revolver is a bit odd but a bit that fits the slot all the way to the edges will generally work even if it doesn't bottom out in the center.

The good thing about S&W revolvers is you only need a few sizes of screw drivers for most revolvers. (side plate screws, thumbpiece nut, strain screw and maybe sights)

Brownells made a short "Armorer's" handle for S&W revolver work that I really liked. I don't know if they still sell that handle but it was useful. Mine was sacrificed to the range gods decades ago. I had acquired so many other handles that I never replaced it.

[Love Life]

I use the Brownells handles and bits. I have the short handle, mid length, and standard. The bits I have found to be decent quality. What I normally do is fit a set of bits to a gun and use that set for that gun type.

[Petander]

I haven't tried Forster screwdrivers yet, and I want to. If you get them, please share some close-up photos of the tips, and your impressions.

https://i.postimg.cc/cJbQgD5k/IMG-20200117-213812.jpg

Forster quality.

[samari46]

I bought from Brownells their master set of bits and a few extra handles of different lengths. Prior to that I had a couple sets of "Chapman" bits and handle and always kept one set in my shooting kit. I lietrally cring when I see someone at the range whip out any old screwdriver and commence to winding in or out action screws or scope ring screws. Nowadays good allen wrenches and tourx bits are on scope ring screws and action screws. Bondhux and Brownells sells both. Frank

[monadnock#5]

I use the Brownells handles and bits. I have the short handle, mid length, and standard. The bits I have found to be decent quality. What I normally do is fit a set of bits to a gun and use that set for that gun type.

I have a couple sets of the Chapman kits. Each set comes with instructions to do exactly as Love Life suggested. Buy multiple sets of replacement bits, and customize them to your needs.

[swheeler]

I bought a set of the Pachmayr gunsmith screw drivers years ago, they are better than hardware screw drivers, but not much. I would say the hardening was inconsistent with bit tips breaking off while others bent. I replaced them with the small set of WHEELER from Midway, much better quality, work just fine for a hobbiest like me.

[murf205]

Petander, take the advice of someone that has buggered more screws than I care to admit, buy the Forster set. They fit, period, and they last a loooong time if you take care of them. The are not cheap, but good tools are not cheap and cheap tools are not good. Buy once, cry once.

[Tatume]

Petander, take the advice of someone that has buggered more screws than I care to admit, buy the Forster set. They fit, period. . . .

I don't doubt that Forster screwdrivers may be as good as Grace, but screwdrivers don't "fit, period." They have to be ground to fit. For example, earlier in this thread I recommended the Grace P4 & P5 drivers for S&W revolvers. I failed to mention, because I thought everybody knew, that they are close but require tweaking. The P5 is a little too wide for the S&W yoke screw. It only takes seconds to shave the sides, but they don't fit without some help.

[Petander]

Yes I got the Forster set for now. #3 fits mid 66 yoke screw very well.

Knowing myself,one set won't be enough because it's always in a wrong place.

[cuzinbruce]

For the cylinder latch screw, you should really make a screwdriver that fits it right. Dedicated for just that purpose. I made one from an old screwdriver and it didn't take that long. Grind it for the radius, width and thickness, break the edges on a stone. Takes less time than ordering a new one. Put it with your S&W stuff. Found a similar screw head on a .22 rifle, holding the stock and action together.

[Petrol & Powder]

For a S&W thumbpiece nut (that's the proper term for the "screw" that's really a nut; that holds the thumbpiece on a S&W) you need a screwdriver tip that spans the entire width of the nut and fits the slot. It's not critical that it reaches the bottom of the slot in the center of the slot because there's almost no torque being applied at the center axis of the slot. Most of the torque is transmitted at the outer sections of the slot.
A screwdriver tip that spans the entire nut, without protruding beyond the edges, AND fits the slot - will get the job done even if it doesn't bottom out in the center portion of the slot.

[Petander]

I just noticed there's no good screwdriver for S&W sights in Forster set.

Generally most of these are not a good S&W fit,being too thick, when the blade is wide enough it's too thick. You end up using all too narrow blades this way,I already scratched my sight elevation screw... and I have been adjusting it for decades with a "WRONG" screwdriver with no slipping,go figure...

Well I have the Brownells S&W bits coming,maybe better luck.