Cracked stock simple fix, yeah right :(

[wyofool]

A good friend asked if I could fix the cracked stock on his Turkish Mauser. 254486
Looked up cracked stocks on our wonderful forum and it seemed pretty simple. A little epoxy, clean everything well and done.254487 254488

Then I took the stock off and gave it a good look. 254489 254490
I have a few more photos but you get the idea. I'll do another post to see if I can get the other photos to upload.

[LAGS]

I have repaired similar cracks on Mauser stocks.
I used a hypodermic syringe to inject the glue deep into the crack.
I actually used Elmer's Wood glue and not Epoxy.
They never cracked again.
A friend used Crazy glue right out of the tube since it is so runny.
After clamping and letting it sit over night the repair was fine.
But try clamping the stock first before choosing your glue and see if the gaps actually close up.
If they don't , then Epoxy would be your best bet.
It will bond as well as fill-in the gaps.

[Markopolo]

amen to what LAGS said... a hypo syringe is really what is called for to get the glue in there whatever you use, and then a good clamp or toweled vice... i did the same thing for my old Ruger 44 carbine and worked better then expected, although I don't push it too hard...

marko

[wyofool]

Still unable to upload more photos of the cracks. I was able to upload a photo of how the magazine fits to the reciever. 254491 This sure doesn't look right and may have contributed to the cracking.
So now my question: Is this worth trying to fix? Or can it be fixed?

[wyofool]

Thanks for your replies, if the magazine isn't a problem I will give it a go.

[wyofool]

Able to upload another photo the cube-like block is cracked on both sides and missing a piece on the other side but I think resin and fiberglass will hold it.254492

[swheeler]

I would think a gentle tap with a dead blow would straighten that trigger guard out so the magazine sets down on receiver like its supposed to. After repairing the cracks you have the opportunity to glass bed the action, make sure and ask him as most milsurp matches won't allow it to be used if bedded.

[LAGS]

The magazine should sit with about .020" clearance between the top of the magazine and bottom of the receiver.
Set the magazine on the front of the receiver and at the rear , use the metal spacer that is in the rear of the stock at the Tang.
Snug down the action screws and see where you have to make adjustments.
But I suspect that in the photo you did not have the tube spacer installed at the rear, you didn't show that in the picture.
But I did see the metal tube spacer in pictures , still in the rear of the stock.

[swheeler]

Lags I don't think he has any screws in the trigger guard, just a single rubber band around it and receiver, therefore it should just sit down onto the receiver. The front looks bent down, it needs straightened out?

[725]

Any thought to drilling and setting some kind of through bolt to squeeze it back together. Some brass stuff, well fitted, look OK

[RustyReel]

Any thought to drilling and setting some kind of through bolt to squeeze it back together. Some brass stuff, well fitted, look OK

My first thought was also that it needed some sort of crossbolt, but if others have made permanent repairs with just glue I'll defer to their judgement.

The trigger guard should be straightened. Looks like the recoil lug is not properly bedded. That with the possibility of loose action screws can easily cause such cracking.

[gnoahhh]

Correct bottom metal for that receiver? Medium-length bottom metal on a long action or viseversa? Tweaked to fit, and missed?

[swheeler]

Or some of the barbed brass pins like Remington used. I think I've seen them at Brownells.

[hc18flyer]

My first thought was also that it needed some sort of crossbolt, but if others have made permanent repairs with just glue I'll defer to their judgement.

The trigger guard should be straightened. Looks like the recoil lug is not properly bedded. That with the possibility of loose action screws can easily cause such cracking.

I cracked a Yugo M48 stock because the wood supporting the recoil lug had deteriorated. I used epoxy and a couple brass screws to repair it. I filed off the screws heads, looks fine, always been a shooter anyway. hc18flyer

[LAGS]

I do not see a Cross Bolt Recoil Lug in the stock like the military rifles use.
One can be added and it too will help keep the crack closed and help with future cracking.
You can also use Hardwood Dowels to make cross bolts to reinforce the stock.
They will be easy to install and not look like repairs once sanded and finished.
Fix the crack first.
Then drill 5/8" holes crossways to epoxy in the dowels.
One can be placed at the back of the recoil lug , and one in the wrist.
Weatherbys and several other rifles have that look on High recoil rifles.
I have replaced the metal threaded recoil lugs on Military stocks that I Sporterized, with Wood Dowels glued into the stock , and then reinletted to act as the recoil lug.
They look good.

[lefty o]

spread the cracks, wick epoxy into them, and clamp them good. 1 brass pin or screw with epoxy on the threads run right across the spot between recoil lug and magazine if it makes you feel good. i just did one a month or so ago, it had 13 cracks. a few were small but most were very large. depending on direction of cracks, and what you have available for clamping, just work a few cracks at a time. from what i see, that stock pictured is quite saveable.

[swheeler]

Still unable to upload more photos of the cracks. I was able to upload a photo of how the magazine fits to the reciever. 254491 This sure doesn't look right and may have contributed to the cracking.
So now my question: Is this worth trying to fix? Or can it be fixed?

Here's one of mine I just took the screws out and rubber banded it to the receiver, it should set perfectly flat against the bottom of the receiver like this one. Try to straighten it, may be too long a trigger guard/mag box, numbers match the receiver??
https://i.imgur.com/3GoGFg3.jpg

[pietro]

I do not see a Cross Bolt Recoil Lug in the stock like the military rifles use.

One can be added and it too will help keep the crack closed and help with future cracking.

You can also use Hardwood Dowels to make cross bolts to reinforce the stock.

Fix the crack first.

Then drill 5/8" holes crossways to epoxy in the dowels.

One can be placed at the back of the recoil lug , and one in the wrist




+1 - but I would use the EASY button, digging a crosswise trench for the threaded section of a bolt, which will give plenty strength against cracking, and be totally invisible under the bedding.

(another tip: mix some sawdust from under the buttplate into the epoxy for the crack to be invisible after finishing the outside of the stock)



.

[LAGS]

The Blind Reinforcement bolt bedded into the front of the stock is a good idea.
But there is no way to do something similar at the crack running down the wrist of the stock.
If the action is not Bedded 100 percent solid , the recoil on the rear action screw can open that crack up again.
When I see a crack like that , I wonder how strong the wood really is and if it will be prone to future cracking.
I would rather do a little Over Reinforcing and sacrifice a little look , then have it crack again and then have to try and repair it again.
Which in most cases will be impossible.

[Gtek]

Cheap set of wood shims for windows/doors from ( ) store. Used to GENTLY spread for glue/epoxy and then remove, install clamp setup that you have very well planned and dry run a few times. Then post cure "I" cuts can be made in channel 90 degrees and filled with epoxy. The threaded brass pins Brownells used to sell duplicates of the ones used by our arsenals for repairs when we had wood. I have used in past and very easy to install, drill hole, put in battery drill and slow screw through and file flush, done.

[samari46]

I use woodworkers wood dowels in some patch jobs. I use the ones that have the grooves on them and liberally coat the dowel with whatever glue I'm using.And in some cases have to set the dowels with a hammer. In drilling I use the spire pointed drill bits. One thing is that they don't take stain as well as the surrounding wood. So I'll use a acid brush to paint the dowel ends ususlley can get a decent match but there are sometimes no amount of trickery will work. Frank

[nicholst55]

Use brass stock repair pins, below. Use canned or compressed air to blow epoxy into the crack. If the wood is oil soaked, I would degrease it with acetone first.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-repair-products/stock-repair-pins/stock-repair-pin-kit-prod617.aspx

[blackbahart]

have been using a shop vacuum to pull glues and epoxy into through cracks till it comes out the others side and surprisingly it has been a very successful endeavour

[LAGS]

I have used the stock repair pins from Brownells before.
They work great and if placed correctly , you can hardly see the ends of the brass pin on the surface of the stock.
There are so many ways to repair stocks , so it is just up to what the rifle will be used for , and what cracked it in the first place.
I buy or am given many cracked stocks.
I repair them and put them back on rifles that need a stock or they need repairs.
I am currently working on three Thompson Center Hawkins or Renegade stocks that have severe cracks in them.
It is fun being The Stock Doctor.

[pietro]

The Blind Reinforcement bolt bedded into the front of the stock is a good idea.

But there is no way to do something similar at the crack running down the wrist of the stock.




The wrist can be re-inforced from inside the inletting, making the work invisible with the rifle assembled.

Before repairing the wrist crack, in the tang inletting, drill a 1/8" hole into the forward face of the wrist from the area under the rear tang.

Drilling a few more holes likewise, but crossing each other, will let the epoxy prevent further spreading of the crack after it cures - just be sure to not let the drill bit get through the surface of the wrist from inside.

Once that's done epoxy the crack, then force epoxy into the drilled hole, followed by an appropriate length of 1/8" rod (I use the sacrificial drill bit used to make the hole.)

Just ensure that no part of the hardened repair intrudes into the tang inletting.


.

[HangFireW8]

Love those threaded brass rods linked by Nicholst55. Done right they are just a little brass dot on the wood. With epoxy they hold very strong.

Lots of other good advice here... if your stock cracked, usually bedding needs to be fixed too. And, clamps.

[redhawk0]

Spread the crack with wedges...lay in your woodglue and use an air compressor with a blowgun attachment and blow the glue deep into the crack. Then remove the wedges and tightly clamp it. In general...woodglue will actually be stronger than the wood and it won't crack there again. Unfortunately, it "might" crack somewhere else if the integrity of the wood is compromised.

redhawk

[wyofool]

But I suspect that in the photo you did not have the tube spacer installed at the rear, you didn't show that in the picture.
But I did see the metal tube spacer in pictures , still in the rear of the stock.
Lags, not a metal tube spacer, a spring! The front lug has a fiber spacer between trigger guard and reciever.
254537 254538
I'm guessing I can make a spacer out of pipe or tubing (with a little work)
I showed my friend what was involved in the repair and he wanted to know if a new stock was possible?? What is the possiblity of finding a new stock?

[wyofool]

Lags I don't think he has any screws in the trigger guard, just a single rubber band around it and receiver, therefore it should just sit down onto the receiver. The front looks bent down, it needs straightened out?

I have the screws and the front one will screw into the receiver easily with out the trigger guard in place but with trigger guard in place it is very hard to screw in.

[wyofool]

Took all of the pieces over to show my friend and let him know what will be involved. As I noted earlier he asked about a new stock but also said this will just be a shooter. He will pay for the stuff needed and all the beer I can drink, I think he will come out on the short end but I'll have to wait until its finished, don't want it to look like a hack job.

[Idz]

An excellent wood glue for hairline cracks is "Titebond wood adhesive thin". It is water thin and self-wicks into cracks and holds well. You don't have to spread the crack like epoxy requires and risk more damage.

[Texas by God]

There is no sense in repairing the stock cracks until you straighten out the bottom metal and get the rear screw spacer correct. Better yet, get the correct Turk 38 parts from Gun Parts Corporation.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[LAGS]

@wyofool.
The magazine box is made to sit right down on the bottom of the action and have a steel tube spacer on the rear action screw to make the magazine box or Bottom Metal fit properly.
But I bet , When they replaced the stock the stock was taller and they made some modifications like putting the spacer on the front , and a spring to replace the rear spacer.
The proper way it should have been done would be to set the bottom metal first to fit in the stock , then inlet the action and barrel so it fits down properly on the bottom metal.
The rifle looks like a standard Mauser 98 action.
Any aftermarket 98 stock can be fit to that action.
They say they are drop in.
But there is some fitting to do on different models to make them fit properly.
Or you end up with an action that is not set solid in the stock , and the stock may be prone to cracking.
Your stock can be repaired and properly fitted to the action.
But as mentioned by others , the bottom metal is probably a little bent from improper fitting.
But it can be straightened.
If you lived closer I would gladly help you out and show you how to fit the stock properly and repair the crack.
I have a Turk 38 that I built a Custom stock from scratch and re barreled it to 25-06

[wyofool]

There is no sense in repairing the stock cracks until you straighten out the bottom metal and get the rear screw spacer correct. Better yet, get the correct Turk 38 parts from Gun Parts Corporation.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info, I've gotten things from Numrich before not sure why I didn't think of it. They have "Stock, Sporter, Semi-Finished, Walnut" $45. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1370200 Not bad if it would work. Also looked up the trigger guard just for grins. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1064330 for a Model: 1903 TURKISH but on the same page they have Guard Screw Bushing, Rear, Used 1903 TURKISH $3.
At least I'll have other options if things don't work right.

[oldred]

I have built stocks for years from walnut that I cut myself and have run into many cracks while trying to save fine figured wood, many pieces of highly figured wood have had cracks and the blank was just otherwise too nice to throw away. Don't laugh at using Super glue (Krazy glue)! Someone earlier in this thread mentioned it but little else has been said about it, here is what I have done. Since epoxy can be extremely difficult to get deep into thin cracks and impossible to get into hair line cracks I started to research ways to save these otherwise very nice stock blanks and several folks suggested Super glue because of it's unique ability to wick into hairline cracks but I was skeptical of the stuff. I have tested these repairs to destruction of the wood glued with it and it is VERY strong! What really sets it apart is how deeply it will penetrate into even the thinnest cracks, not only that but it actually penetrates into the wood grain itself. I have sawed apart test pieces to see how far it will wick into hairline cracks and in most cases it will actually go all the way to the bottom of the crack or all the way through if the crack is all the way through. This stuff really is amazing and is all I use but if you do use it make sure and get a good quality and not a bargain store brand.

Just try the stuff on a test piece with a thin crack, it's really amazing to watch that glue instantly wick itself into even the thinnest of cracks and as you have to add more it seems to just disappear into the wood as it's applied. Unlike it's well known attribute of setting up instantly under pressure it will take a while when used to repair wood but once it sets the crack will be glued usually all the way to the bottom and even into the wood grain itself.

Of course all this is for the liquid type Super glue and the gel type will not work well at all.

[LAGS]

If you are ordering other parts from GPC buying the bushing is a good deal.
But you can use a piece of 1/4" I D steel ,brass or Aluminum tubing that has at least a 1/16" wall thickness.
It is only a spacer.

[wyofool]

I'll only get it if I end up buying other things. As you say I can make one from stuff I already have (I think)

[LAGS]

I make the spacers and even Pillars out of Aluminum Rod or Brass Rod or even Steel rods with a 1/4" hole drilled down thru it.
I use 3/8" rod for the spacers , or 1/2" or 5/8" rod for Epoxy in pillars on other rifle models.
Mausers don't need pillars because of their Design.
The rear Spacer is not Required .
But makes it a whole lot easier to set up the bottom metal , and also dissipates the recoil on the rear action screw by greater surface area , to help keep the wrist from cracking.

[243winxb]

Drill holes inside stock to get fresh wood. Inject Acraglas liquid. Not the putty. Rubber bands should hold cracks together.

[contender1]

I see a LOT of excellent advice here. I'll just add a tiny fragment of an idea I learned a long time ago about stock/wood repairs.
Cracks need glue,, and to get the glue in the tiny spaces,, a small bird feather, using the edge can work into the cracks quite nicely. It's thin, strong, and can be used easily.

[LAGS]

That is a good Idea Contender1.
I would have never thought of it.
Just happens ,a local Owl ate another bird last night in my Mesquite tree.
The ground is covered with Dove Feathers.
I will have to go out and collect some of them to use on my stock repairs.
Thanks for the tip.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Very interesting thread, ideas, and knowledge. I use the threaded brass rods coated with AccraGlas Gel run through the stock across the cracks. I get what epoxy I can into the cracks before running in the rods, but more as a filler than for the glue, as once the rods are through the stock the cracks will never again spread. Looking at your photos, it's pretty bad. It would take a minimum of 3 rods to stabilize, and perhaps 5 due to the length and severity of the cracks. There is no guarantee that once repaired a new crack wouldn't appear somewhere else.

Frankly, I don't think it's worth the effort, since the stock may not have originally been for this model rifle anyway. I do realize that it's a sporter stock with a cheekpiece and pistol grip, but what if you could obtain an original military stock and just cut the fore end back and reshape it to a sporter configuration as has already been done to millions of military rifles. The sky is the limit on what can be done with good woodworking skills and some imagination, but it seems to me that just a cutoff military stock that is in sound condition would be preferable to what you're going to end up with. Cutting off the fore end and reshaping it, refinishing the stock can make a very presentable rifle, especially since yours still retains the original military sights and the job wasn't taken any farther than putting the metal into a stock for which it might not have been intended anyway.

I just happen to have about a dozen Turk take-off stocks, still "as-issued" and would be happy to give you one for your project if you so desire. It would have the spacer for the rear trigger guard/tang screw still in it, as well as the original steel butt plate. If you want to PM me your mailing address I could get it sent out sometime next week. You could reimburse me for the postage. Talk it over with your friend.

Here's a refinished, but otherwise as-issued Turk M-37. You can get some idea of how your project could look if you cut the stock off at about the location of the center barrel band and rounded the tip, and no upper handguard.

254575
click to enlarge.

[wyofool]

I've decided to take DG up on his offer. In the mean time I believe I have fixed the trigger guard 254642
I will use the stock to develop my crack fixing skills.
LAGS I'm not so much a "Stock Doctor" as a "Fixer of Things"254641
Even the Grandkids know

[swheeler]

I've decided to take DG up on his offer. In the mean time I believe I have fixed the trigger guard 254642
I will use the stock to develop my crack fixing skills.
LAGS I'm not so much a "Stock Doctor" as a "Fixer of Things"254641
Even the Grandkids know

Looks much better now. I like the sign, my grandkids gave a coffee cup, MR Fix It

[LAGS]

For Christmas , my Grandkids gave me a similar sign to go on my shop door.
My wife says , " You are Not McGyver.
You are the guy McGyver Wants to be ".
Fixing these stock keeps me in practice for the time that one Rare rifle comes across my bench.
Then I will have all the skills practiced and well refined.
I use to fix cracked stocks , then use them as a Pattern to make a new stock on a Duplicator.
But I ended up with so many of similar patterns that I just started installing them back on the rifles

[wyofool]

Got the stock from DG and it mostly fits. It will need to be shorter and bedded.254782 I think having the front band would help keeping things together. The barrel and reciever seem to fit well. 254783
there is some foreward/aft movement but bedding should take care of that 254784
The stock around the trigger guard will have to be trimmed a little but the front and rear holes do align nicely. 254785
The LOP on the "new" stock is a little shorter than the cracked one, I hope it won't be a problem
254786

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Glad to see that this has a possibility of working out for you. I'll send you a band if you'd like, complete with sling swivel. Since there's already one on the butt you'll be able to attach a sling without having to install any swivels. You will note that the band retaining spring in that particular stock is broken off, so you'll have to drift out the shaft which remains in the wood. Sometimes they're rusted in, so it may take a strong pin punch and some determined pounding. Best to try it from left to right. I did not send a band or the spring as I thought you would want to cut it off behind that location to maintain a pleasing ratio of stock to barrel. But, not actually seeing your project you may come out just fine. "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder", and since it's your project you'll have to be the judge of what looks good. We're getting heavy snow here, so I may not make it out to the Post Office until perhaps Friday.

[415m3]

I see a LOT of excellent advice here. I'll just add a tiny fragment of an idea I learned a long time ago about stock/wood repairs.
Cracks need glue,, and to get the glue in the tiny spaces,, a small bird feather, using the edge can work into the cracks quite nicely. It's thin, strong, and can be used easily.

My son and I picked up a wrist cracked, all matching Gewehr 88, with numbered stock that just had to be saved. We carefully spread the crack, cleaned with acetone in a syringe, drilled small dowel pin holes at opposing angles, and used non waxed dental floss to drag epoxy deep into the fissures. Filed grooves in the dowels, tapped them in, and clamped for a week. Once dry, we smoothed the tops of the dowels and stained them to match stock. We've shot it quite a bit and it's holding strong. Feather's a good alternative to the floss.

[wyofool]

DG I haven't had a chance to discuss with my friend yet but was thinking the front band would help make things stronger. Like you say cutting the stock back would make a more "pleasing ratio of stock to barrel." I'll let you know in a PM. There is no hurry as my friend would like to be "involved" in the process and he just had some "back and knee stuff" done and is "down" for awhile.

[AZ Pete]

The way I was taught to get good penetration into a stock crack, with epoxy, is (using original acraglass), apply the epoxy to the crack and blow it into the crack with a hair dryer. The heat of the dryer thins the epoxy and I usually get very good penetration. Try it out.