Bending a cast bolt handle?

[Bazoo]

As some may remember, I have a pre 2003 savage 110. I have my scope low and I need just a little more clearance.

It's a cast part so I'm wondering if I can heat it and bend it?

I have decided bending won't work, see post 14. Thanks to all who offered advice, I appaulogize for wasting y'all's time.

Bazoo

[pietro]

IDK - but I think I'd just grind the clearance I wanted atop the bolt handle shaft.

.

[country gent]

If its investment cast then it should heat and bend fine, powdered metal or traditional casting may break it. Depending on where you need the clearance it may be able to be cut at a slight angle the end rotated 180* and welded back together.

[Bazoo]

IDK - but I think I'd just grind the clearance I wanted atop the bolt handle shaft.

.

Yeah, I've considered that, along with many other options. It's not a blued part, more like parkerized.

[TCLouis]

What does Savage say when you ask them?

[Bazoo]

If its investment cast then it should heat and bend fine, powdered metal or traditional casting may break it. Depending on where you need the clearance it may be able to be cut at a slight angle the end rotated 180* and welded back together.

I'm not sure what variety of cast it is but I'll research it some. I don't have access to welding or machining options. I do have access to a mapp torch a cast iron table top and a c clamp though. I only need .020 clearance or so.

[Texas by God]

Lots of Savage 110 bolt handles available, I'd say try it and see. I'd think it'll work.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Bazoo]

What does Savage say when you ask them?
I've not asked them. I had not considered contacting them about the matter. I would guess they would suggest higher scope rings.


Thanks for all the replies thus far.

[Bazoo]

My research shows investment cast from 8620.

If I'm going to heat it and bend it, what color do I heat it to for the best integrity of the part? Dark red?

[oldred]

Don't confuse cast steel with cast iron, they may look the same but are two totally different animals there! If the thing were cast iron then it would break if you tried to bend it even if you heated it red hot first, you can bet it's NOT cast iron however. A steel casting will bend the same as any other steel part when heated but care must be taken to contain the heat to just the bolt handle and not ruin a heat treated bolt by allowing it to get too hot.

BTW "investment" (or the lost wax method) cast steel is no different than any other steel casting, "investment" cast simply refers to the method used for the molds. The quality of "investment" cast steel or any other steel casting is dependent on the steel alloy and heat treating used after the casting process whatever that might be. Investment casting can result in more precise parts due to the fact the mold is only used once and was itself molded around a precise wax model of the part to be made vs a method such as die casting that uses the mold over and over making it subject to wear and warpage and thus producing less than precise parts. So if something is "investment" cast it could be any kind of steel with several different properties or even it could be cast iron for that matter, although I have never seen or even heard of an investment casting of iron there is no reason it could not be done and it might be fairly common (or not) for some things made of iron instead of steel.

[Bazoo]

Thanks oldred. The bolt handle on a savage comes off easily so no chance of heating the bolt itself.

[oldred]

Whoa!!!! The handle comes off the bolt? Since that's the case there is a slight possibility that it might be cast iron after all, I still doubt it is but since it's not an integral part of the bolt I can't be certain. Is there a small inconspicuous spot on the bolt that you might be able to lightly touch to a grinder, by doing so it's easy to distinguish between cast iron and steel by looking at the sparks.

[LAGS]

I have cut off Savage 110 bolt handles many times , and welded on threaded extensions to fit Threaded on Tactical bolt knobs.
I am sure that all Savage bolt handled are made of the same material.
So one model would not be a cast iron handle.
I also save the old knob off the Savage Bolt , then weld that knob onto a section of steel to make custom bolt handles for other rifles like Mauser or Mosin Nagant sporters.
The Savage knob looks a lot better than the Military Ball Knobs.
I Gas Weld the bolt handles.
So your MAPP Gas torch won't hurt it.
But try to keep the heat located in the area where you are bending the handle , and off the area that attaches to the bolt.
Just wrap that part in a wet rag.
And DO Not quench the bolt Handle in Water when you are finished.
Lay it on cold concrete and let it cool naturally.

[Bazoo]

Thank you lags.

I looked at it again, and I don't think bending it will work. It hits the ocular bell on the shaft of the handle close to the attachment point. To close to bend I think. I had previously looked at it and thought it was more in the middle when I posted. I thank everyone for their replies, I did learn something. I appaulogize for wasting everyone's time.

Bazoo

[lefty o]

http://www.stockadegunstocks.com/4.html these guy's extended bolt handle will clear whatever your running. if it dont, you got something wrong.

[Bazoo]

Thanks lefty. It's not the bolt knob that's hitting the scope, but the shaft near the attachment point. It doesn't hit when lifted, but rubs on the ocular bell when held at it's uppermost position while moving rearward.

I could raise the scope but I like the cheek weld where it is. I don't like the look of the cheek piece risers.

[LAGS]

@ Bazoo.
You are not wasting anyone's time if the question you ask , gets answered.
That way you and others learn something.
But if you can post pictures of the handle on the rifle , and note where it is hitting , we still might be able to help.
If nothing more , banking info like the handles are bendable or weldable , gives you a good start on solving the problem that you have

[LAGS]

Bazoo.
I have a suggestion.
Since your bolt handle comes off your rifle , make a Rough Copy carved or filed out of wood that is the same size as your rifles bolt handle.
Then you can play with shaping the wood handle to the shape you will need to clear your scope.
Then you will see what actually has to be done in the areas that are hitting.
That trick is called Patterning.

[lefty o]

Thanks lefty. It's not the bolt knob that's hitting the scope, but the shaft near the attachment point. It doesn't hit when lifted, but rubs on the ocular bell when held at it's uppermost position while moving rearward.

I could raise the scope but I like the cheek weld where it is. I don't like the look of the cheek piece risers.

that stockade bolt has about the thinnest shaft your going to find on one, cutting one thinner will probably make strength an issue.

[oldred]

@ Bazoo.
You are not wasting anyone's time if the question you ask , gets answered.
That way you and others learn something.e

Yep definitely not wasting anyone's time and in fact it was a darn good question.

[Bazoo]

I appreciate the replies. I can do photos but it's not easy. I don't have internet here and the wife's phone won't upload them.

Thanks for telling me about patterning.

I'll pondering it a while longer.