Lil CVA Revolver disassembly assistiance, please

[TCLouis]

Several years ago someone I know gave me a CVA Percussion revolver.
It came wrapped up in an old shirt so there is more to the gift.
I think all the parts except the nipples are there.


It is 44-45 caliber solid brass frame.
The cylinder is removed so I know at some time the had the cylinder pin out.
It is apparently installed from the rear, but is not threaded in the rear lie some models.
The pin has a flat which leads me to believer the pin is threaded and had to be the front that is threaded.
Some less than gentle attempts to turn the pin have not been successful.
Only markings are CVA stamped on the solid brass frame and made in Spain on the underside of the octagonal barrel.
So far my interweb searches have not even turned up a gun like it.

I know the pin has to come out because the cylinder was one of the pieces laying loose in the shirt.

Not worth the time I have spent so far, but now it is the fact that I refuse to be stopped in getting it apart then operational again.
Someone out there has the answers, I'm sure!

For me posting a pic may be harder that getting eht pin out!

[Battis]

Can you post a pic of the gun?

[Pressman]

Brass frame and octagon barrel sounds like a Colt Navy. The cylinder pin is not removable. Yes, we need pictures.

[mazo kid]

There should be a small pin from the top of the frame through the threaded arbor pin. You will have to look closely for it. I have removed that pin by drilling it out with a small bit. Before re-installing the arbor, tap the previously drilled hole for a set screw to hold the arbor.

[swheeler]

base pin-base pin;-) ;-)

I have a brass frame Pietta that got stretched and loose, after a years waiting I got a new frame and the base pin is part of the frame. IIRC the base pin is "pinned" but it is a wedge affair driven or pressed and is parrallel to the base pin, not cross ways. Not positive but pretty sure that's the way it was. It's been maybe 20 years so clear as mud in my mind??????

Edit; cock the hammer fully to the rear, clean the bottom of the channel with some steel wool, see the pin inline with the base pin- parallel isn't it.

[swheeler]

Several ears ago someone I know gave me a CVA Percussion revolver.
It came wrapped up in an old shirt so there is more to the gift.
I think all the parts except the nipples are there

It is 44-45 caliber solid brass frame.
The cylinder is removed so I know at some time the had the cylinder pin out.
It is apparently installed from the rear, but is not threaded in the rear lie some models.
The pin has a flat which leads me to believer the pin is threaded and had to be the front that is threaded.
Some less than gentle attempts to turn the pin have not been successful.
Only markings are CVA stamped on the solid brass frame and made in Spain on the underside of the octagonal barrel.
So far my interweb searches have not even turned up a gun like it.

Not worth the time I have spent so far, but now it is the fact that I refuse to be stopped in getting it apart then operational again.
Someone out there has the answers, I'm sure!

TCL have you owned or shot other single action cap and ball revolvers? What you say here makes me think you are missing something very basic?? The base pin STAYS IN THE FRAME, the cylinder slides onto the base pin, the barrel fits onto the 2 dowels on the front of the lower frame, the wedge pin holds the barrel on.

I guess you could have some kind of 73 sa clone???

[swheeler]

TC I just took the cylinder out of my Pietta and snapped a picture for you, you see how it works, does this help?















Scot

https://i.imgur.com/uE8MfaI.jpg

[bob208]

that is a 60 army. do not remove the base pin there is no need to do that. the cylinder slips on the front. then the barrel the wedge goes in the slot in the base pin. it should go together by hand no tools needed.

[swheeler]

That's not his revolver, I was trying to help him, you know a picture worth a thousand words! You need to read from the start, read the OP by TC , read the post directly above the picture.
This is happening more and more here, read the thread, and if you don't have time to read it from beginning at least "skim" it so you actually know what OP was about.

[swheeler]

Maybe you have something like this but in the 44 cal you say? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOnZ2wQ-B8

WE NEED A PICTURE OF IT! :Bright idea:

[TCLouis]

It is a solid brass frame, not unlike current Single actions.
Pin must come out, because the cylinder is one of the parts that was wrapped up in the shirt when it was given to me.
Posting a picture (for me) is likely harder than getting the pin out.

Gonna look to see if the base pin is pinned in in some manner though the original owner got thebase pin out and cylinder removed some way.
I will capture some pics tomorrow and see if I can figure out how to post them!

[Moleman-]

1858 Remington? Made them in brass frame and steel. Disassembly is the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui5uXl33n8g

If it looks like a 1873 Colt but is percussion push on the spring loaded button in front of the cylinder on the side of the frame and pull the cylinder pin out of the front. Those usually have a round barrel though.

[TCLouis]

Frame is somewhat like that, but trigger guard is cast as part of the frame.
The previous sentence has been proven to be wrong upon reexamination by me.
Nothing simple like a pin to push for the base pin to be removed.
I have had enough experience with single actions t make that a non issue.

I can see the picture is going to have to be a beginning for "us" to get anywhere.

Everything is out of the frame . . .EXCEPT
The
barrel
base pin
that piece that is in front of the base pin (steel) where the release pin might normally be.

[Eddie Southgate]

If its the Remington or Whitney, release the loading lever and pull it down as you would if seating a ball . All you have to do then is grab the triangular ( roughly so ) end of the cylinder pin and pull it out . May stick if it was never greased but it should come forward without too much effort . Just pull it out enough to allow the cylinder to go in the frame . You need to half cock the gun to install the cylinder . Once it is in wiggle the pin back in till the head touches the frame and relatch the loading lever . Does it look like this one ?

Eddie

[mazo kid]

There seems to be a lot of confusion about terminology here. The arbor is the "pin" that the cylinder revolves on. The cylinder simply slides onto that. If the cylinder is loose from the frame, then why would you want to remove the arbor? Slide the cylinder onto the arbor, put the barrel assembly onto the front of the frame, push the wedge into the slot to hold everything together. That's it, unless I am missing something.

[swheeler]

I think you are missing something kid? From what TCL is describing to me sounds like a Spiller & Burr(Whitney) revolver that has had the cylinder removed, then the loading lever and base pin put back in the frame without the cylinder installed. I put up a link for him to watch on the S&B because google search it looks like CVA marketed 1860,1858 and the S&B types, doesn't appear he has first two? Did I say we need a picture!

[swheeler]

TC, Look there are some nice close ups here, is this it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVyPTdHcCDI

[swheeler]

By searching the web it looks like CVA sold revolvers made by Pietta(post 2000) ASM(pre 2000) models ranged from 1858 Remington clones(you.ve already said not one of those) to open top Colt clones(not one of those either) plus one "odd ball" revolver called the Spillar and Burr........ this must be it!https://i.imgur.com/ljNN68t.jpg

[Battis]

The Spiller and Burr is a brass framed Whitney copy.
Spiller & Burr over original Whitney (both .36).
A pic of the OP's gun would really help.

[swheeler]

The Spiller and Burr is a brass framed Whitney copy.
Spiller & Burr over original Whitney (both .36).
A pic of the OP's gun would really help.





















Plus TC says 44-45 cal and trigger guard one piece with frame??? who did that

[mazo kid]

I think you are missing something kid? From what TCL is describing to me sounds like a Spiller & Burr(Whitney) revolver that has had the cylinder removed, then the loading lever and base pin put back in the frame without the cylinder installed. I put up a link for him to watch on the S&B because google search it looks like CVA marketed 1860,1858 and the S&B types, doesn't appear he has first two? Did I say we need a picture!
That would make more sense. Yes, that retaining screw is a bit tricky if that is what he has.
Plus one on pictures!

[swheeler]

https://i.imgur.com/wuVgTXM.jpg Does this look familiar TCLouis??????

[TCLouis]

Well I went down to get pictures of it and learned something . . .

DON"T trust my eyewitness testimony . . . the trigger guard is removable!

AND

Yes, swheeler that looks perzactly like it!

[swheeler]

Good Job you are the proud owner of a 58 Remington. You already have a link posted with everything you need to take it down and put it together, go forth and shoooooooooootttttttttttttt :-)

[TCLouis]

ONE minor problem . . .

Mine looks like that one minus all of the parts EXCEPT the base pin

It is in there and the previous two owners and I have yet to figure how to get it out.
First owner obviously did because like yours, the base pin is in place but . . .
BUT the cylinder was removed, and was one of the "parts" wrapped up in the shirt when it was given to me.

[swheeler]

You need the loading lever assembly. Remove the small screw located at front of frame on the cylinder center line(screw head on left bank/side) and pull the base pin out. Parts are available you will just have to google them up. From what I've found online you have either Pietta or ASM, not sure how to tell which though.

[swheeler]

look here for Pietta......https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/accessories/parts/pietta-parts/pietta-1858-remington-revolver-parts.html
Deer Creek still sells some ASM revolvers

[Moleman-]

Shouldn't need to remove the base pin in order to put the cylinder in, just slide it forward with the lever down. It almost sounds like your's has been modified as on mine the boss around the loading lever is what keeps the cylinder pin from being able to slide all of the way out with the lever down. When you remove the loading lever retaining screw the lever will drop slightly and allow the cylinder pin to slide all of the way out. Mine is an Armi San Marco from about 30 years ago. The barrel on the lower right side flat (not the bottom) is marked "A.S.M. Black powder only Cal 44 made in Italy"

[Battis]

You said that the nipples are missing. Are there threaded holes where the nipples would go?

[swheeler]

Shouldn't need to remove the base pin in order to put the cylinder in, just slide it forward with the lever down. It almost sounds like your's has been modified as on mine the boss around the loading lever is what keeps the cylinder pin from being able to slide all of the way out with the lever down. When you remove the loading lever retaining screw the lever will drop slightly and allow the cylinder pin to slide all of the way out. Mine is an Armi San Marco from about 30 years ago. The barrel on the lower right side flat (not the bottom) is marked "A.S.M. Black powder only Cal 44 made in Italy"

This is true but since he has no loading lever the base pin should just slide forward, since it doesn't as he and other have tried the pin must have been put back in upside down with the flat on the top, then the screw installed(must have been some drilling and threading take place) now the cylinder can be assembled and the screw will hold pin in. Someone did this so they could fire the gun probably because they couldn't find a replacement loading lever?? That is my WAG and I'm sticking to it> :-)

[Battis]

I was wondering, since there's no nipples or loading lever, if it was a conversion cylinder.

[swheeler]

I sent TC a link, probably 30-40 dollars will get him shootin that hog leg again, hold still critter whiles I plugs ya! :Fire:

[TCLouis]

Do not think I am missing any parts . . .
Cylinder is missing the nipples, but there was two packs of 3 with it so that is a non issue
Removal of the base pin is the only issue for now.
I have pulled, pushed, toted, tapped and the &(*&^* thing is still stuck.

May be like an issue I had with a post 64 extractor way back when.
Just a little harder tap to break it loose.
Gotta go to Nashvegas today so will start in again tomorrow.
I have learned to just set some things aside and let me regroup.

Yes, apparently WD40 sitting long enough will seriously gum something up.
Luckily it was jammed in place, that sill little fellar is 35 bucks!

[swheeler]

Do not think I am missing any parts . . .
Cylinder is missing the nipples, but there was two packs of 3 with it so that is a non issue
Removal of the base pin is the only issue for now.
I have pulled, pushed, toted, tapped and the &(*&^* thing is still stuck.

May be like an issue I had with a post 64 extractor way back when.
Just a little harder tap to break it loose.
Gotta go to Nashvegas today so will start in again tomorrow.
I have learned to just set some things aside and let me regroup.

Yes, apparently WD40 sitting long enough will seriously gum something up.
Luckily it was jammed in place, that sill little fellar is 35 bucks!

Yep let her soak a good piece, Ed's Red is a favorite of mine for this kind of work. Oh yes the WD40, I've quit using it on my guns, you store them on their butt plates and a year later the brown varnish ring around the bolt, in the ejector, extractor, trigger and every other danged thing. I just can't seem to get a handle on storing them muzzle down, seems :veryconfu 2 me

I think hoppes 9 does the varnish thing too, it's always caught in the lugs from cleaning and you can't get it all out. Bore guide time?? if I could only find it

[swheeler]

You have to be shooting it by now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:bigsmyl2:

[TCLouis]

Sure glad this is a project to take on "Just Cause".
Soaked in Kroil, Eds Red, etc. over a period of months.
Glad it was given to me in pieces wrapped up in an old shirt.

AND, NO the base pin still has NOT budged.

Good thing I have three other 58s in the safe in case I really want to shoot one.
I bought them several years ago and intended to shoot them, bu have not gotten around to doing so!

Come to think about it I have not laid eyes on them in year or two . . . . Well maybe more

[swheeler]

It's gotta be the wrong base pin, too large, driven in there with a 3# hammer!

[modified5]

I had a guy bring me a 58 with the pin rusted into the steel frame. I soaked it in wd40 for a week. Everyday I went and tapped on the pin with a brass punch and my four oz hammer. It finally broke free and came apart. Now to remove all the rust and lube it up to get it shooting again. The sad part is the owner wants to powder coat the gun a bright blue! Weird, but I guess it's his thing.
It sounds like yours is corroded in. Keep soaking and tapping. It will come out.

[TCLouis]

In the case of this revolver, it is brass frame, steel bet pin.
Over the last year or two, I have soaked it in multiples of "penetrating "oils" and so far NOTHING.
Really started get more serious about it last summer when I decided it was going to be easy . . . THEN it became the challenge of it.
Maybe I should boil it and see if there is corrosion/galvanic action that is causing the trouble.
Safe way to provide heat to "Swell" the parts also.
OK, when the rain breaks (Sunday 1/5) I put it on the stove to stew for a while